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Long time lore freak, first time actually trying to collect models and play the game, so I have some questions because I'm not sure what to do with my current situation. So far I've bought the following: Necromunda + 4 gangs Fractal Blades kill team I own a very large portion of the Dark Vengeance and Blackstone Fortress models I have several kit bashed characters including some AoS Khorne berserkers that I'm converting to Nurgle berserkers for some custom 40k play, as well as several generic chaos space marines that I've kit bashed together. A poo poo ton of Admech kill team units, plus I'm building a stationary gun for them out of some ironstrider bits. Anyway, I wanted some opinions on both casting. I've otten into casting because I prefer kit bashing. I've gotten a ton of thermoplastic and although it's catching a lot of detail, I'm having a hard time getting greenstuff to not be crap. Anyone have any advice on how to use this stuff properly? And by that, I mean is there a preferred shape to make molds, or how to position bits within the medium? I can work within the time limit of the thermoplastic, but I'm finding that creating indents in the thermoplastic to line up the molds just doesn't work very well. I've also heard that combining milliput with greenstuff is preferred, is there any truth to that? I was also considering using liquid blue stuff so I could really start cutting up bodies for bits. Anyone ever use this stuff to make 2 part molds for full character models, or at least larger pieces like chests, legs, or intricate weapons? Also, liquitex modeling paste is pretty great for adding texture to nurgle models btw.
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Sep 10, 2019 19:24
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| # ¿ Jun 2, 2024 21:03 |
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Honestly I want it for both bits and full models. I love DIY stuff and am an old crotchety man at heart who would prefer to be able to do everything himself. If I could get modeling software like whatever GW/Forgeworld/etc use I would begin making my own space barbies in a heartbeat. As a first step I figure casting is a good test of skill. I thought heads and weapons would be fine for thermoplastic, but yeah so far bodies and what not are definitely difficult. I got 24 bars of the oyumaru for $10 so that was a steal, and I can use the 2 part resin I have with a silicon rubber mold once I buy that junk so that's not a total loss either. I'm really interested in the silicon rubber two part molds and found a very good tutorial online but it's explicitly for liquid blue stuff and I can only find this stuff online at the original UK sellers site. I'd like to find a generic variant in the US however so I can try to avoid shipping, but I haven't found anything as of yet. To be frank, I'm not totally sure what I'm looking for in this instance because it seems like there's a few options to go with chemically but I'm not sure what the differences are between each product. As you mentioned there's a silicon caulk which is something I wasn't even sure was in the same ballpark. Caulk is usually very thick isn't it? Anyway, most of the Amazon postings I've found are upwards of $100 just for the liquid silicone/rubber, and that's a bit much for me right now. I'm also looking at airbrushes too and that alone is at least $250 to get started with a good airbrush and compressor from cursory recommendations. I managed to get an airbrush for free that's 15 years old so I can hold off on that purchase to see if I really enjoy it, but that still leaves me on the hook for the compressor and oof.
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Sep 11, 2019 01:21
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Been trying molding lately: It seems that with thermoplastic I'm really only capable of copying simple flat items. Anything that gets more dimensionally complex is a pipe dream when using putty it seems though. Maybe I'm just not skilled enough yet. I'm pretty curious to know if the thermoplastic will have issues losing its shape when using resin since that heats up quite a bit. Other observations: Pure greenstuff ensured the new bit was extremely flexible. Pretty great if I wanted to pin sculpted bits into certain positions. But for my purposes it was just too fragile. I mixed red milliput with greenstuff 1:1 and it gave a fantastic sculpt, but it left chunks behind in the mold when removed. You really have to be careful about the amount of material you've placed in the mold too, as it's easy to put too much in so it can't be properly closed anymore; this leads to some majorly phat-assed marines. I'm thinking I'll pick up some liquid blue stuff, some old rear end Legos, and try to make some silicone two part molds for these mint sprues I have. I'll clip the sprues into smaller segments to make it easier. If I fail at creating anything worthwhile I'll give up with the whole copying thing until I can get a 3d printer.
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Sep 19, 2019 05:42
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Hixson posted:I used to cast small bits for my space marines: heavy weapons, shoulder pads, arm bits, swords, etc. using 2 part silicon molds. There’s a pretty basic kit from a company called Smooth-on available on Amazon. Of don't worry, I'm already discouraged hahaha. I've read about the issue with bubbles, and I think I'm going to use an old electric razor on the underside of the mold to shake all air bubbles out. I'm hoping cutting the sprues down to size will help increase the chance of a healthy cast. I'm thinking the channels to each item on the sprue will really help though, I'll post results. I found an excellent video that I'm going to copy so fingers crossed.
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Sep 19, 2019 16:43
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I'm an indecisive bastard. Someone please recommend me an air compressor for the sotar 2020 and the patriot 105. In fact, I'm even going back and forth between those. Assuming I own the fine, medium, and heavy needles for each, which airbrush would you gentle goons choose?
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Oct 18, 2019 02:15
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3rd party casting question: Are there any other recast stores as good as War-tablegames?
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Nov 13, 2019 21:54
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Wizard posted:Im curious, do you guys prefer to base before or after gluing the model to the base? I sculpt the base before, then sink a magnet in it. I'll throw a magnet in the foot of the model so I can just swap bases whenever I want.
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Nov 14, 2019 03:10
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Solemn Sloth posted:So this is an exceedingly stupid question. Magnet at the bottom of the base, magnet in the foot.
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Nov 16, 2019 05:49
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Crossposting: I'd like to make some sexy Iron Warriors and I think I have my first simple kit bash down:
I'm not sure what to do for backpacks or other bits to hang off them though and would love recommendations. Any specific mechanicum pieces I should throw in the mix? I'm also going to alter some Myrmidon Destructors to be used as Obliterators, so that should be fun!
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Nov 17, 2019 04:21
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Anyone find any good black Friday mini/terrain deals?
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Nov 29, 2019 18:54
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Wait, am I a monster for using clear gorilla glue?
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Dec 12, 2019 06:37
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So I bought Aekold Hellbrass but he didn't come with his standard icon. Anyone know where I can find only the icon the sale? Also, I plan on trying to convert a 40k unit into Aekold because I want a melee Tzeentch champion for kill team. Any idea what unit might be a good choice as a base for a conversion? I'd like to use the bigger primaris bodies, but I'm open to suggestion. I plan on using thermoplastic to copy the garb/scaled skirt design and helm, and maybe even the sword (although the chaos chosen holding the big rear end sword with the huge horns from Dark Vengeance might be worth cannibalizing). Edit: I didn't realize just how monopose that chaos chosen model is, there's no way I can use it without destroying it. Pastry Mistakes fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 12, 2019 20:54
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I recently bought the oldschool metal Aekold Hellbrass model as it was my favorite when I was a kid. I want to bring him into 40k as a custom unit, so I've been copying parts of the model with thermoplastic so I can get the texture of his armor down along with his helmet. However, I need a base body to build off of, which leads me to the AOS WarCry Preytaker with the sawtooth blade. Does anyone know how large this model is when compared to both the 40k normal marines and primaris ones?
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Jan 13, 2020 14:41
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You can also try priming with acrylic ink. Just be sure to add airbrush thinner to it (I believe it's a 1:1 ratio). Miniac has a pretty good video on inks with airbrushes
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Jan 13, 2020 16:38
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I couldn't find anything on YouTube or Google, so I figured I would ask here : How the hell do you backflow a sotar 2020?
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Jan 14, 2020 01:50
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| # ¿ Jun 2, 2024 21:03 |
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Anyone have any pictures of painted Dark Uprising terrain that they love? I'm looking for an overarching color scheme and am unsure of what to go with.
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Jan 23, 2020 21:27
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