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berzerkmonkey posted:Whew - thanks for the info. You have to be super ginger with Army Painter sprays or else they can cover things up, definitely. I just do quick little sprays as I move the can from left to right and that's generally served me pretty dang well.
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May 12, 2015 20:37
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 21:47 |
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krushgroove posted:I understand people are annoyed that they have to pay now to see the exhibition halls but they are larger, they have a permanent team to make displays specifically for WHW and they'll be making new display boards on a regular basis. The big display took 10 months to make and all the displays will be updated with new models, like the Space Wolves/Tyranids battle scene. For me, I play at WHW a couple times a year and I would pay to go into the exhibition once a year to see what's new.
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May 17, 2015 21:57
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So I've been wanting to add Centurions to my old school Ultras for a while now, but there aren't many suitable models of the era for them. Then I thought hey, why not the old Rogue Trader robots? They're only a little bigger than a modern Terminator, and entirely too small to count-as the new Admech robots, but I think they're really fun and funky models. The Castellan in the center is really the only one of the three I think the sculptor really thought through. The wonderfully chunky Cataphract on the left is just a staircase with legs and I don't know what the hell's up with the Conqueror on the right. That being said, once I got some freehand on these guys I liked them a lot!      
SRM fucked around with this message at 04:47 on May 19, 2015 |
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May 19, 2015 04:38
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Finished up this old Epicast Vindicator. The actual Epicast bit is only the trashcan-looking cannon on the front and the conjoined armor plate, but hot drat is it not a well cast piece. Epicast poo poo is as bubbly as Finecast, but fortunately not so bendy. That being said, I still really like the look of it, I just wish the cast was better. Enough kvetching though, here's a cool tank:    
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May 21, 2015 00:48
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Rustoleum is fine but it sometimes goes on fairly thick in my experience so you have to be ginger with it. Krylon rules.
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May 23, 2015 06:25
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The Sex Cannon posted:
OneTrueBru posted:God, it's been ages since I touched a brush. Decided the most sensible way to shake the rust off would be following a step-by-step, so I picked up a copy of Angel Giraldez's "A-Z painting for idiots" guidebook and tried my hand at painting the included Joan of Arc miniature: overthefalls posted:Man, I picked a bad time posting after that! ---^ Looks fantastic.
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May 25, 2015 16:36
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I mean, she could stand to dial back the rouge a little  OneTruBru's skintone is more natural, but I think the studio paintjob's real good too.
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May 26, 2015 17:30
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berzerkmonkey posted:I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach?  This guy has a step by step of it but I don't know how much good it'll be to you:http://www.excommunicatetraitoris.com/2015/03/forge-world-thunderbolt-assembly-guide.html
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May 27, 2015 05:20
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Yeah, Citadel 'Ardcoat is really only good if you want to put a gloss effect on a gemstone or something.
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May 27, 2015 17:15
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Under 15 posted:Does goblin green still have a direct equivalent out there? I want to change my base rims to green, and I have an old pot of goblin green around, but I don't want to break it out unless I can be consistent with it.
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May 29, 2015 02:06
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HardHead posted:army painters goblin green is a really good match. How is their Goblin Green? I have their Greenskin paint and it is so loving thin and lovely, it's actually alarming. I spray based my 2nd ed Cadians with it, and after a not-terribly-thick wash it was taking 2-3 coats to get it back up to a decent green. I'd say it's worse to work with than any of GW's yellows, but without the excuse of being yellow and therefore normally super thin.
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May 29, 2015 17:52
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berzerkmonkey posted:I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach? It turns out I didn't throw them out! I found them and it's literally a picture of all the parts, then a picture of the fuselage in one piece as a sub assembly and then the wings glued onto it. They're really bad instructions.
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May 29, 2015 18:21
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I love my KR backpack. It holds two KR cases which is enough to hold just about any army I want for an average sized game of 40k. It also holds my rulebooks, gaming paraphernalia, and a water bottle if I want.
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Jun 2, 2015 16:16
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krushgroove posted:People in this thread recommend brake fluid...I wouldn't use it myself. You can get isopropyl alcohol in 5 liter jugs too.
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Jun 3, 2015 16:46
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Post 9-11 User posted:Having the trays come out of the side seems smarter in every way. When they go in veritcally, top to bottom, you must remove all the upper trays to get to the bottom, it's pretty crappy.
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Jun 3, 2015 21:58
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Fingers McGee posted:Cross post from the warmahordes land I'm not a huge fan of gore on minis but you pulled it off well. That being said, the paintjob on the model itself is excellent, and the gore doesn't detract from that at all.
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Jun 4, 2015 18:04
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Looks a lot better than my first Ork. That box isn't available anymore because they're in the process of replacing their brush line, and that had the old ones in it. Call GW and get those paints replaced though, that's inexcusable and not standard. I love their tutorials. I used all their Dark Angels ones on my DAs:   Super simple to follow, good pictures and all. Also Garfy's 2nd ed project over there is what got me to finally pull the trigger on my retro Ultras. Tale of Painters is a great resource.
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Jun 7, 2015 00:03
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Unzip and Attack posted:So I've had two consecutive cans of Armory gray primer sort of go wonky on me. It gets to where the primer won't spray continually and will just spit out a little primer then just fire off air periodically. What am I doing wrong? I shake the hell out of the can and it still does this. Armory is just really lovely primer. It used to be what I bought from my hobby shop and aside from one can of white, they were all crap. Use Krylon.
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Jun 11, 2015 21:24
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Seconded. I started out using Armory because it was cheap; turns out you get what you pay for.
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Jun 12, 2015 04:01
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Just finished another Tactical Squad! I decided to forgo transfers on these guys and try doing an all-freehand-all-the-time thing. I'm reasonably happy with the results, although it took significantly longer than just doing some decal work. Unfortunately the sergeant doesn't have his banner since my printer kicked the bucket, but if I ever get a new one he'll get a flag to wave. This was my first time getting to assemble and paint the old multipart plastic Marines from 2nd ed, and they were a joy to put together. The detail on their chestplates was pretty shallow, unfortunately, but they beat the pants off the "I love my bolter" Marines. I think the sergeant (actually a Dark Angels sergeant) is my favorite sergeant model of the era, and the metal flamer Marine might be my favorite Marine sculpt of the era. It's just such a satisfyingly chunky model, and he's posed perfectly for what he's doing.         
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Jun 13, 2015 17:12
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Ghost of Babyhead posted:Love those checkerboard patterns. Is there any particular trick to them (beyond, I assume, having steady hands?)?
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Jun 14, 2015 23:23
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Even if you were bored painting it, it still looks absolutely lovely. Those are some razor sharp highlights.
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Jun 16, 2015 21:44
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BULBASAUR posted:If you pull this off it'll probably be the only good centurion conversion anywhere ever http://davetaylorminiatures.blogspot.com/2013/10/mechanicum-skittarii-centurion-completed.html
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Jun 19, 2015 05:38
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serious gaylord posted:Had some time to work on Guilliman over the weekend. Got quite a lot done. Very nice model to work on. This already looks gorgeous, I can't wait to see the finished product! dishwasherlove posted:Can it be 10mm time now? 
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Jun 22, 2015 02:19
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mentos posted:Just finished my Vostroyan Taurox half-track conversion. Sorry for the lovely phone pics. This is loving baller. I couldn't be assed to paint the interior of any of my Tauroxes, so I'm glad someone else did. There's too much detail in there for everyone to waste it.
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Jun 22, 2015 16:02
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Post 9-11 User posted:PyroDwarf the paws boss looks dross! I think that means solid? Really great basing, too, I never have the patience for it. Some gentle application of dark washes in the recesses could give the armor more definition. My tan color for my Valhallans is just Steel Legion Drab layered up to Tallarn Sand and Karak Stone. If you wanted to go one step further, Screaming Skull is a good highlight. You can add a wash if you're feeling randy but I don't generally, with the exception of the cuffs and pants on my Valhallans.
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Jun 22, 2015 19:20
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Yup, fukkin owns. It looks like an absolute nightmare to assemble and like there's more detail than I'd even know what to do with, but it looks incredible painted up like that. It even has enough skulls on it to make me happy.
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Jun 23, 2015 05:46
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Skarsnik posted:Typhus Incoming: This is one of my favorite paintjobs I've seen in this thread, good god. The colors are perfect, the metallics on the scythe are really distinctive, and I love the sort of lightning patterning that's going on his armor. Super crisp highlights too. In short: Slimnoid posted:This is some pro poo poo dude.
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Jun 28, 2015 06:56
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Just finished the third Chaplain I've painted up for my Ultras. I think the secret to highlighting black and enjoying it is to use those blueish Shadow Grey/Space Wolves Grey colors instead of just regular greys.    
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Jul 1, 2015 04:00
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Fun fact! Coal Black + Nuln/Badab Black + blue highlights + Future = boss Space Hulk Genestealer box art style carapace. This whole thing is really fun, but the cooler and beers look especially great. I also love the tropical drink and use of a cocktail umbrella.
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Jul 1, 2015 14:57
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Post 9-11 User posted:I'm not familiar with Army Painter but they seem to use the same squeeze bottles as Vajello so definitely go with Army Painter. The squeeze bottles are far more useful and easier to use than the GW pots. They're more narrow so fall over far more easily, though, if that matters to you.
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Jul 1, 2015 20:13
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I finally got to paint my Valhallan army's centerpiece, a Shadowsword superheavy tank that I've named "Tsar" appropriately.          And for scale:  Various graffiti on it says “Crush”, “Pray to the Emperor”, “For the homeland!”, “Valhalla” and other such stuff.
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Jul 2, 2015 05:57
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Drone posted:Your Valhallans are amazing and are seriously making me consider them as a future army. Throbbing blob posted:crosspost from Historicals thread
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Jul 2, 2015 15:45
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Ensign Expendable posted:More like "to pray of emperor". Google Translate is really not good. Sweet paint job though.
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Jul 3, 2015 04:38
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BULBASAUR posted:SRM if you need future Russian sayings to paint on stuff all you need to do is say "I choose you, BULBASAUR, the worst Pokemon" I'd expect my tanks to be covered in variations of "I'm gay" and "Bulbasaur roolz"
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Jul 3, 2015 06:34
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HardHead posted:desert skyline camouflage. So horizon NMM is canon. Weird.
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Jul 6, 2015 17:01
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An Angry Bug posted:Could use some tips. I bought some metal heads to use on my marines, and the drat things just will not prime properly. I've tried the GW primer-in-a-pot, but the stuff starts peeling off after the second layer of paint no matter what I do. It might be dirty, but the thing is so small I'm worried it'll fall down the drain when I try to clean it off. How should I handle that, and is there a good way to hold a metal head in place for spray priming? Wash the pieces in warm soapy water, the release agent from the molds might still be on there. Just put them in a little tupperware container over the sink (put the drain plug in if you want) and scrub them a little bit. You should use spray primer though; Imperial Primer or whatever their bottled "primer" is called is absolute poo poo. It's barely thicker than a wash. If you really want to paint the heads separately, drill a hole in them and lightly glue them to some paperclips that you've stuck into cork or something and paint them separately that way
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Jul 6, 2015 17:22
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ANAmal.net posted:I just use the Army Painter colorerd primers, because I'm a lazy shitwad and it gets the basecoating out of the way.
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Jul 6, 2015 18:02
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ANAmal.net posted:You talking about the retro metal ones? I've only tried the stuff on plastic, but it's been fine so far. I'll have to keep that in mind though, that sucks. Yeah, but even on plastics it rubs off a little bit. It's weird because the coverage of the paint is pretty excellent but it doesn't really like to stick. I've been priming with Krylon white and so far so good, but we'll see.
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Jul 6, 2015 19:34
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 21:47 |
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That's a solid little conversion. Nice paint too. I dig the use of the little skull decal on the warhead.
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Jul 8, 2015 14:21
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