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An Angry Bug posted:Jesus Christ, eyes are hard to paint. It doesn't help when depth perception seems to be actively loving with me. Try to paint white next to the pupil? Nope, eyebrow! 1. 2 dots of white, 1 dot black. If you can't paint eyes this is the easiest methid, don't paint a line of white you'll cover with the pupil anyway because lines are much easier to gently caress up than dots. Also, use a bigger brush with a very good point. It gives you more comfort space as you don't have to dot rioght now or your paint will dry. 2. Close one eye, move brush directly away from self, use the distance of brush and it's shadow to gauge when to stop pushing. hosed up depth perception is worse than no depth perception.
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Jul 14, 2015 16:06
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I think the problem is with the shading, green and sandy have a very similar shading color with makes them kinda blur together. I'd mix some light grey into the basic green and highlight with that to break it. Or repaint the green, starting from a darker mix of olive+black. It all looks very good as is, only suffers from the "camo effect" a bit. Or you may just gently caress it and paint camo shapes on the cloak, Lasiqs have mimetism anyway 
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Jul 16, 2015 11:46
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Slimnoid posted:I really hate how old bottles of Vallejo paint didn't have any numbers or names on them
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Jul 17, 2015 22:00
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Slimnoid posted:Really? Yep! Reaper's do the same. I pasted clear tape on them to remember which ones are which...only for the print to react with the adhesive and disappear in a matter of minutes 
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Jul 17, 2015 22:41
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Partial Octopus posted:Whats the consensus on Reaper paints? Very good, but tend to reactivate with washes. Give it a few hours to dry before applying a wash.
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Jul 18, 2015 23:01
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Super Waffle posted:Am I having a stroke or are those figures neon green and pink and not black and gold? They're blue and white, might wanna check your eyes
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Jul 19, 2015 11:09
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What, he's trying to one-up both hollismason and the Nurgle dude with stinky moldy rice.
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Jul 22, 2015 13:59
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Anyone have a good way or tutorial on painting red OSL (demonic eyes or LEDs) that doesn't end up pinkish or orange?
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Jul 26, 2015 11:11
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ijyt posted:Just a theory, but maybe the brightest red you have as the light source, followed by a glaze of that red mixed with a darker red, with the darkest red at the edges of the glow.
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Jul 26, 2015 12:40
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Turquoise + a bit of dark grey?
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Jul 26, 2015 13:39
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stabbington posted:Unidrons Umm... 3 hours!?  Mind posting your workflow? Also, that chestplate NMM looks amazing, I'll have to try it out.
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Jul 28, 2015 01:54
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stabbington posted:Unidron Workflow: Zenithal prime, white over black. Fleshy regions: two washes of VGA Sanguine Red, wash GW Carroburg Crimson, rough highlight with VGA Bloody Red. Metal stuff: base Scalecolor Black Metal, wash GW Nuln Oil, edge highlight Scalecolor Heavy Metal. Arm stripe: freehand a line of GW Mephiston Red, highlight with GW Bloodletter, then with VMA Flourescent Red. Eyes: Dot with white, glaze with Createx Flourescent Pink (only really successful on one, as I said, this was fast). Guns: Base black, paint upper surfaces a mix of VGC Turquoise and VGC Black, edge highlight white. Base: thin VGC Scurf Green goes under the middle of the model, thin P3 Arcane Blue in the light areas, allow to mix to form a nice natural gradient, drybrush VMC Ivory once it dries, rim black. Motherfucker! And here I thought it was done by hand with a really good knowledge of light reflections.  Are the Black/Heavy Metal paints actually metallic, or just NMM shades called that? Hard to tell in the photos.
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Jul 28, 2015 11:58
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Southern Heel posted:Would I just add my color to glaze medium or would it require separate Vallejo glazes?
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Jul 28, 2015 12:59
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Southern Heel posted:Perfect and I can slop it over sprayed zenthal/etc.? You don't "slop" glaze-medium glaze like a wash, if that's what you're asking. It's for highlighting and thinning paint so it doesn't run like a wash. It's awesome for highlighting Infinity armor though.
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Jul 28, 2015 14:19
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spectralent posted:Is there any trick I could use to generate a similar effect No, seriously. gently caress painting tiny pixel camo otherwise.
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Jul 31, 2015 02:22
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This only works for living scrunts, not plastic ones.
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Aug 8, 2015 18:11
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DJ Dizzy posted:How do you guys prevent the paint on stuff like rivets from fading and rubbing off within a few games? Wash minis, good primer, varnish after painting, transport in something soft and packed so they don't bounce around. Should be enough.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:23
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bencreateddisco posted:eyes are just not something i can do please help - black dot for the pupil - done I found this much easier than lining the white, or gods forbid, lining with dark color and painting the eye on it. And dots are much harder to gently caress up than lines. Also, use a 1-2 size brush with good point, 0 and smaller will dry faster and give you less time to work with. Less time = more stress = higher fuckup chance. ed: have an illustration: 
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Aug 13, 2015 10:53
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SRM posted:is easily done in 4 little dabs of white More like the easiest way to gently caress up a face. And black lining looks either very weird or like heavy makeup. The brown lines I mentioned are more like ink than actual paint.
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Aug 13, 2015 18:23
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Danimo posted:I was just using black paint and water, should I be using some kind of dedicated wash substance? If you only have access to GW paints (you poor thing), their equivalents are ?(forgot) Sepia, Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil. VVV: most P3 paints are really good, but their washes are noticeably different. And don't touch their metallics. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Aug 17, 2015 |
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Aug 17, 2015 14:16
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What wonder chemical do I buy to make decals align nicely to space marine pauldrons? VVV: Thanks Pierzak fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 20:32
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^^^: Oh right, that. gently caress the Huggy model. You want something round and flattish like the tip of those ergonomic brushes to smooth it. Also, be very very very careful with the build order for the mini-Huggy Illuminated. Paint the human, the parasite, and the parasite's arms separately, otherwise it's a major PITA to paint. Mask the contact surfaces with PVA glue or masking fluid before priming. Seriously, you don't want to paint that model inside-out. No, really. nesbit37 posted:Does anyone have any good guides on how to paint creatures that have black skin? I don't mean dark skin, I mean black like there is no color skin. I want to tackle some drow but not do it with purples and such like the reaper masters series and several others do. I want to get close to the original description for them and am just not sure how to do it. Just psi them the blackest of blacks and the do a little highlighting with white or grey? Their hair seems to have the same problem only in the complete opposite direction. Here is the original description for them: Pure black, RMS Noir Black as the first highlight (it's a very very dark graphite), then VMC German Grey. Both highlights using glaze medium. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 01:45
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demota posted:I have a Sable Kolinsky 000. It won't dot eyes. Touching models with the tip does nothing. I have to drag the side, which defeats the purpose of the brush size. Any idea what might be happening? The tip is still super sharp. The tip's so small that the paint dries too quickly. Be faster or use a 0 brush.
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Aug 23, 2015 03:22
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SRM posted:Mephiston Red, not Mechrite Red. Mechrite Red is a gross nail polishy purplish mauve poo poo color with bad coverage. Mephiston Red is actually decent. Did you just talk poo poo about Mechrite red?  Seriously though, I hated the subdued colors of the old foundation line until I realized how great they are as base to highlight and shade. But "bad coverage", really? 
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Aug 24, 2015 19:50
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SRM posted:I think I did a pretty good job This needs to be turned into the next episode of Guardsmarine Quest. 
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Aug 25, 2015 20:06
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Hauki posted:any more specifics about what tools/supplies I should have on hand to get started, knowing it'll all be for imp-rear end? - brushes - size 2 and/or 3 for normal painting, size 0 for details like eyes. - paints - get washes. Army painter has cheap and good GW-equivalents, def grab the Soft/Strong/Dark tone triad plus any extras you might need - e.g. a bit of blue added to the normal black wash will do wonders for shading white, like say, imperial stotmtroopers. Also get glaze medium, that poo poo's amazing and helpful. - modeling knife with disposable blades - don't file FFG mold lines, they'll only get worse on soft plastic. Instead shave them with a sharp knife (I use the triangular blade type) - primer - spray preferred - varnish - see above quote:30 paint pots (citadel I believe) from my teen-warhammer days that were pretty well cared for & sealed, are these potentially salvageable or should I just start from scratch quote:Any reason I shouldn't just buy the exact products Sorastro uses/names in his videos? quote:any good storage solutions for painted minis belonging to a board game? Currently all the dice & tokens are in a plano in the bottom of the game box [...] Ideally something that could fit inside the game box. what I'd recommend is: plan for the inevitable expansions because FFG, use the main box for terrain/rules/dice/tokens (grab a GMT counter tray or several for tokens), and use foam-lined boxes for minis. Alternatively get some flat pizza-like boxes and make grids from bubblewrap, that works too but doesn't withstand as much wear as foam.
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Aug 25, 2015 20:24
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Hauki posted:one of the minis was already broken off it's base when I opened the box, are loc-tite superglues suitable for gluing it back assuming the same plastics? I think that's all I've got in the house, but if that won't work I'll need to pick something else up. quote:also whoops, I guess he just paints the bases grey, or grey with a red outline for elite unites which seems kind of boring to me. Not sure where I saw the clear bases, but that still seems like the most elegant solution so far. I forgot about washing: if you wash the minis (warm water, dishsoap, brush) before priming (let them dry ofc) the primer holds better because new minis are covered in mold release agent. Also, if any of your minis are bent (they probably are), hold them in very hot water for a few seconds, take out, bend them to desired shape and put into cold water so they solidify back in the right position.
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Aug 25, 2015 23:27
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Speaking of basing pastes, what's a good one to use on smaller scales, like 6-10 mm, when you still want something a bit coarse but even fine sand looks like large pebbles?
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Aug 26, 2015 16:50
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JackMann posted:Sprue. Sprue, he means. The bits of plastic or pewter that the model pieces are attached to. Very useful for testing purposes. And here I was wondering what's so particular to spruce wood properties wrt priming.
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Aug 31, 2015 04:01
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I want to see that chibi gundam with realistic weathering
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Sep 3, 2015 02:26
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Cutty Glue Man?
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Sep 8, 2015 19:48
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Darren MacLennan posted:How do you paint hair without doing the basecoat/wash/drybrush tango? Because as you can see, it doesn't look good. Glaze medium, 3+ levels of individual highlights.
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Sep 9, 2015 17:34
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Are you sure that's a minis case? Looks more like a generic transport-fragile-stuff-in-foam case to me.
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Sep 11, 2015 20:44
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rantmo posted:Since we're talking basics, how often, if at all, do you all wash dry palettes? I've got that standard round plastic palette and most of the cups, or whatever the term is, have paint in them and I don't know if it's safe to put paint over the dried paint or if doing so will tint the fresh paint with the dried paint. I also figure it's not great for the water supply to try and scrub old paint off a palette so what's the SOP here?
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Sep 15, 2015 22:41
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Why is it filled with rocks, though? Is it supposed to be a coal hopper or what?
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Sep 16, 2015 15:35
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dexefiend posted:It is just this empty section with nothing in it. Ah, so Wyrd pushing the boundaries of "holy poo poo how do I reach there with my brush" again
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Sep 16, 2015 19:09
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BULBASAUR posted:To preserve the luster your only option is to paint it on after you varnish, or not varnish at all. I game with my minis so I save my metallic highlights for after I've based the model out. Alternative method: Paint everything except metallic parts, varnish matt, paint metallics, brush-varnish metallics with satin or gloss+satin.
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Sep 23, 2015 14:39
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Speaking of metals: how can I make a TMM mini really shiny with normal acrylic paints (including Vallejo Air extra fine stuff)? I mean clean-SF, Daft Punk helmet-shiny.
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Sep 23, 2015 21:05
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You are a sick individual. Please get help. By which I mean teach others how to do that so they can build more of those.
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Sep 28, 2015 22:46
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Bistromatic posted:If there's actual interest i can see if i pull together a write-up from progress photos. Time spent asking is time not spent writing a tutorial 
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Sep 29, 2015 12:32
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