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You really need to wash bones FYI. They are usually dripping with mold grease to the point of being hydrophobic sometimes. Also if we're just reposting our poo poo:   
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Mar 11, 2015 17:45
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berzerkmonkey posted:Sadly, I've never found the buildings, just vehicles. And I have no clue how to pull models from games either - I think you can only pull the skins, and not the model. I may be wrong though... I guess I'll have to try to get some screenshots and extrapolate from there. If you have the first games I think you can just pop open the map editor and zoom in/rotate them and stuff. Not the best option but they're pretty low poly so it's not like you're gonna need in depth shots from all angles.
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Mar 13, 2015 21:29
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rantmo posted:I use a pair of $3 cuticle cutters from Walgreen's. I use Radio Shack clippers because they have a lifetime warranty (lolololol). And I usually paint with Testors brushes these days. Sometimes I break out a Windsor and Newton Scepter to do detail work but things under a 1 or 2 usually don't hold enough paint for my tastes. Also Faust did some videos on starter hobby stuff that are good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2y8wIJCS-k
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Mar 16, 2015 13:28
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I use tacky glue mixed with cheap craft paint/inks. But I also make all my basing supplies and do all my basing after I paint which is not typical for mainstream fantasy/scifi stuff (very common in historicals). These aren't good miniatures, or good pics but they are an example of what I'm talking aboot:  
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Mar 17, 2015 17:17
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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:Should I use the purpose made Army Painter primers or can I get away with Rustoleum or Krylon automotive primer? I also seem to remember a Krylon line that is made for painting plastic. As long as it's just primer and not paint and prime. Rusto 2X and Krylon ultra flat both work well.
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Mar 17, 2015 17:41
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I find it easier to paint the eye black and then add the white using a cup shaped curved stroke:
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Mar 23, 2015 14:19
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Ryoshi posted:The only thing I can seem to find is this, and I'm concerned about it being labelled a cleaner rather than a finish (also, it seems to be scented). You want the finish not the cleaner: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pledge-Floor-Care-27-fl-oz/15136693
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Mar 24, 2015 03:35
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Sauer posted:Is it polystyrene or something else they've developed? It's PVC. Yeah some people are huge Bones shills. It's OK for some stuff but TBH painting isn't one of them. It's a really durable material and its cheap as hell so they make great gaming minis for RPGs and such but if you're looking to paint things just to have pieces to show off then pay the extra two dollars to get them in metal because the difference is pretty huge. There are figures that weren't recasts of existing things but were sculpted to be Bones and those are much better TBH, but the detail is still really soft and such. I'd compare it to the difference between a well made kids army man like Schleich or Britains and an actual historical 54mm or 1/31 figure. For instance they make a bones Orc with a two handed sword. Great figure. But I've painted the metal and bones version and while one is 3 dollars as opposed to 9, that six bucks is worth it if you're painting miniatures for the sake of painting. If you're doing it because you want a gang of orcs for next Wednesdays gaming night or something then Bones is better because you'll get three of them for the price of one but if you're actually looking to paint good miniatures then choose based on sculpts not on value. Reaper has a ton of great metal models in the sub-12 dollar range, I've painted a lot of them. For individual figure recommendations I'd also look at Enigma, Dark Sword, and Smart Max. If you decide to get into single fantasy figure painting I will warn you, GW is pretty crazy but not as crazy as "real" models. "Good" 54mm display figures can be easily 30+ dollars each, much like there is a big range of cost in Historical kits.
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Mar 30, 2015 07:22
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Seeing blood on that sword reminded me: Can we get Tamiya Clear Red in the OP? It's the go-to best option for blood used by basically all pro painters.
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Apr 1, 2015 04:27
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Darren MacLennan posted:
Your highlights are way too stark for doing B&W, you should try thinning your paints and doing more progressive coats as opposed to single dominant lines. When you do B&W if you use a cartoony highlight style like you did you end up making things look like they're made of stone as opposed to just being composed of a limited palette. It's OK for a first attempt but you need to work on doing soft layers and on feathering/blending the edges of your layers. So yeah, more thinner layers > Single thick ones. This is a decent tutorial: http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=4157 This is hands down the best blending tutorial ever written, but its overwhelming as gently caress and honestly requires a level of skill thats beyond the vast majority of people (even me): http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/32050-how-to-blend-by-olliekickflip/
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Apr 2, 2015 05:38
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Pierzak posted:Not everywhere; half the point of the b&w challenge is to learn how different materials reflect light; when you have metal, cloth, plastic, skin on the same mini and only 2 paints to work with the sharpness is one of the few things you can influence. You're describing a different thing. What I'm saying is that he's using the very cartoony style where you have clear line delineations between your layers, what you're describing would be done by adjusting how fast the gradient shifts in a blend and also maybe by what style of blending you use (high contrast feathering for skin, 2BB or wet for capes etc). The blending on the helmet for instance is decent but inconsistent in that it needs to decide where the light is coming from since the helmet itself and the gem seem to have different ideas about that. I'd argue for doing B&W the most important thing is your light source. Well that and knowing how to do ultra high contrast highlighting on metals but that's more a tech that you'd develop for painting explicitly an entire army in that style not for practicing your blends in a controlled environment. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 12:49
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BULBASAUR posted:People baby their airbrushes because they are expensive tools, which is understandable. That said, outside of the tiny parts you can loose or break they are typically made out of solid machined metal. Besides a gaskets or O ring that could corrode over time, your airbrush is better built than your mouse and keyboard. It'll take more than windex to put it down. My roommate uses a $600 H&S for his job and he's sent buckets of unthinned floor varnish through that thing. And they are by far the most finnicky and sensitive airbrushes people buy for painting miniatures (he paints furniture and stuff with his but still). Saying that you need to use special airbrush varnish over Future is like saying that you need to only use GW paint on Warhammer minis because it's specially formulated to coat GW's jewel like objects of wonder. Spoiler: every professional painter using an air brush probably runs future and windex through it because they are the best at their jobs. Faust is like the Julia Child of miniatures painting and he does it and that's good enough for me.
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Apr 3, 2015 01:48
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It's a good brush but a bad starter. If it's your first you definitely want more of a workhorse brush with a more general range rather than something that fine. Something like a Paasche Talon. Actually TBH the best starter airbrush right now is probably a Veda. They're a (I think) Thai or Taiwanese company that makes knock offs of the Talon and H&S brushes and they are drat good for the price. The 180 and 130 are the ones you see on eBay and stuff, and they are both good, the 180 is a more Iwata/H&S styled brush while the 130 is more like a Paasche or Sparmax.
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Apr 4, 2015 04:35
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Sauer posted:I use the gravity feed version of this and its a really good brush. My friend once termed it "the AK47 of Airbrushes" which is probably a good idea of what it's capable of.
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Apr 4, 2015 04:48
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Hollismason posted:Does anyone know of any decently priced "quiet" or sound suppressed air compressor, mines not super loud but it's loud enough and I'd like to get something with less noise but a good price. The Ninja works and is quiet but they are oil-less, low PSI and burn out fast. If you have real money to spend then the SilentAire 20-A is loving great, but it's also not cheap. Comedy Option: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBm8XnIc2oU
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Apr 4, 2015 06:50
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Moola posted:thoughts on using this as a cheap wipe clean mat for D&D? Chessex mats are 20 pounds and will last you the rest of you natural life.
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Apr 7, 2015 01:03
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All spraypaint that uses accelerants will melt foam. You need to brush the foam down with PVA/wood glue before you paint or prime it to seal it and stop it from melting (also will stop the foam from degrading over time).
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Apr 7, 2015 02:40
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Bad Munki posted:I've had good luck with testors sprays on foam. You can use Liquitex Water based out of the bottle too, but all that poo poo is way more expensive than Krylon, and you need to wash down everything with PVA anyway to make it tough. Or you can use latex house paint which will cover without primer and also form a protective shell around things.
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Apr 7, 2015 03:13
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Arcturas posted:Caulk isn't a chalk, it's the goopy stuff that people use to seal windows, the edges of doors, along baseboards, etc. But it dries pretty well and can be painted. Be careful with foamcore, it warps super easy. I'd recommend backing it with MDF or something similar.
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Apr 7, 2015 04:17
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Hollismason posted:What is Lexan Plastic, I mean I've read the wiki and understand it's a type of plastic but this manufacturer of paints is not forthcoming on what the hell " Specially formulated for Lexon Plastics" means. Lexan is a tougher, harder version of plexiglass.
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Apr 8, 2015 18:25
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krushgroove posted:Phone posting but I'm pretty sure this is in the OP already (one of the Vallejo videos is anyway), but I'd welcome any video/blog tutorials you guys think should be in the OP! This guy does some great stuff, a bit of what he does is really dependent on how fine he can get with his 300 dollar airbrush but not that much. This is also I think the ONLY good video tutorial that exists for shading with pigments (there is one from MWG IIRC but it's loving awful and looks like poo poo). It's also a great intro into new painters trying to break out of the GW mold where you only shade a color with the darker version of that color: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HjkO44H-AU
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Apr 10, 2015 08:47
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Sauer posted:Has anyone tried using artist acrylics for painting minis? I've got an artist friend who wants to dump a bunch of her fluid Liquitex acrylics on me that she doesn't use anymore. Definitely not going to say know to free paint but I was curious how good a job they do; and if something like Tri-Art or Liquitex Soft-Body can be shot through an airbrush without falling apart? Can't see any reason why they wouldn't perform just fine given that they use high quality pigments and tons of binder so thinning them out for brushing on minis and airbrushing should not be an issue I would imagine. Any of you have experience with the products the beret wearers use? They work but you need to thin them and some types really don't like being thinned for some reason.
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Apr 11, 2015 04:07
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Post 9-11 User posted:The "new" Citadel paints are still unfamiliar to me, has anyone else experienced that it takes an extraordinary amount of flipping, shaking or some other method to mix the metallic paints? Leadbelcher especially is an almost-black gunk unless I put a bunch of work into mixing, turning it, or stirring it with a boat oar. Put something in your paint pot as an agitator.
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Apr 14, 2015 12:38
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P3 is Coat d'Arms, so yeah, it thins well. I miss Ikore paints, those were some good poo poo.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:49
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VMC does have one huge advantage which is that English Uniform is a VMC color and it's awesome.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:25
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Weirdo posted:I'd say avoid the VMC Golden Yellow, I've had two bottles and they were very thin. This is actually what you want from yellow and red paints.
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Apr 16, 2015 05:36
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Pierzak posted:And the massive bitching about yellow/red coverage finally makes sense, it's collective masochism If you're worrying about coverage on those paints you're doing it wrong. Too many people complain about yellows because they slop it on over black primer and go "bu-bu-bu-bu it don't coverrrrr" when ideally you should be highlighting up from ocher or brown. If you're lazy you just yellow ink over white and clean it up with a few coats of a bright yellow.
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Apr 16, 2015 12:18
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Use pink/blue foam instead and carve the texture with a bic/biro. Or use coffee stir/Popsicle sticks and run a piece of sand paper over them once or twice (only go one direction, not back and forth) to bring out the grain.
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Apr 19, 2015 05:20
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mirthdefect posted:Speaking of popsicle sticks, what do you guys do to square up the ends? I tried clamping a bunch and attacking them with a cheap jigsaw but the blade moves from side to side and none come out right. Triangular file or a Jab Saw (the kind that take Sawsall blades).
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Apr 19, 2015 21:08
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Tax refund arrived today, so I got me an airbrush setup! Wear a mask when you airbrush. A real one, with filters. If you wan't a cheap gravity dual action brush go get a Veda on eBay.
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Apr 22, 2015 02:31
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nesbit37 posted:Does anyone know of a good guide for how to paint obsidian? I've got a few 15mm figures with chipped stone weapons and I want to paint them as if they were chipped black glass rather than rocks and am not quite sure the best way to go about it. Paint them light grey, go over them with a few washes of black ink and then lightly drybrush the edges with white.
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Apr 23, 2015 23:38
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These are decent: http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-academic-synthetic-golden-taklon-round/ I actually do most of my painting with Testors economy brushes because they are really really durable and I thrash my brushes, those blick ones are a common brand that's rebranded under several different names (Testor's premium for instance). But yes, they do kill the animals when they make sable brushes (and other applications of sable of which brushes are usually a byproduct) but it's not like they are hunting endangered animals in their natural habitats, most sable comes from farms which was why a lot of people were annoyed at the recent heavy restrictions on sable imports (because they were basically only hurting countries that responsibly farm martens while the areas that poach and over hunt them were unaffected because they don't really export that stuff to the US). They are adorable so I guess if you have issue with the farming of other adorable animals like rabbits and goats or the casual murder of cute pest animals like ground squirrels then yeah, you probably should avoid sable brushes. I personally always found them too springy IMHO.
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Apr 28, 2015 22:10
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jodai posted:I have a black primer+paint, could I use that on my minis? I was planning on trying some zenithal priming but I'm not sure if I should just buy new primer or use that old stuff. No, don't use paint and prime on minis. Not only do you have to worry about obscuring details but sometimes the paint component is hydrophobic and will make painting hard.
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Apr 29, 2015 19:06
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SRM posted:That only happens on gloss paints. So long as it's primer it probably won't be gloss. I use Rustoleum, Krylon, or whatever kind of primer for my minis. Details are only obscured if I'm being an idiot and laying the paint on way too thick. There is a big difference between primer and paint+prime. Primer is designed to go on in a thin flat layer with good coverage, even thick primers like Rusto 2X and Gesso. Paint+Prime is designed to intentionally be thick and cover up minor imperfections so you can just use it to quickly repaint sections of your garage wall or a random bookshelf you bough on craigslist. Even in flat paint+prime mixtures the paint part of the mixture is usually a pretty thick gloss enamel and it will often repel water. You can use flat/matte enamel spray, and you can use flat/matte primer but you shouldn't use paint and prime basically.
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Apr 29, 2015 22:57
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If they're old metal jacks you can also use Pinesol or nail polish remover on them.
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Apr 30, 2015 05:22
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Thundercloud posted:Can anyone recommend some good youtube channels or tutorial sites that aren't in the OP? I've got a skittering manpile and two knights to paint and want to up my game. http://cursedmonkeys.com/?page_id=4108&lang=en http://www.akaranseth.com/category/blog/tutorials El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 12:42 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 2, 2015 12:35
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Super Waffle posted:Hey guys, I am having some trouble getting a smooth, even, right red on my Khador jacks. I've only ever painted a dark red on cloaks and robes and such, but the jacks have large, wide, flat areas. I feel like no matter how many coats its just looks splotchy and streaky. Short of getting an airbrush, anyone have any tips? This is over a grey primer. I'm currently using thinned scab red > unthinned mechrite red > thinned skarsnik red. White or bone basecoat -> VGC Red Ink -> Carroburg Crimson Then do a thin layer of your pure red color on the wide areas and finish by darkening the edge of the panels with a very thin application of a dark brown wash (MIG dark, secret weapon armor, Vallejo Smoke, GW Agrax, etc). El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 23:45 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 23:39
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I'd throw down a light bronze drybrush and then some splotchy washes of black and brown around all the vents for that burned out vent look.
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May 5, 2015 03:22
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berzerkmonkey posted:Army Painter is good , and you get the added benefit of having your basecoat done off the bat and having matching dropper-bottle paints as well, so you don't have to worry about your base and touchup colors being different. Wash your metal minis and buff them with a rag.
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May 5, 2015 20:07
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moths posted:I've got this weird compromise thing where I add increasing amounts of white to metallic paint and do a pseudo-NMM. MNMM I guess? It works for me, anyway. Plus I get fantastic gold coverage by mixing ochre with metallic gold for the base coat. This isn't NMM, this true metallics, IE how real professional painters do metals. The general opinion in basically all pro painting circles these days is that NMM looks like poo poo. You still see it show up here and there in some places, usually on 40k minis because 40k painters are always a bit behind the times, but we've moved so far beyond the mid-00's days of slathering everything is bad NMM jobs. I've talked about this with examples in the last thread, but seriously if you look at/follow real painters and not guys who have popular threads on Dakka or something there is no contest in how good well highlighted metallics look in comparison to NMM: http://www.coolminiornot.com/184673?browseid=12046462 http://www.coolminiornot.com/258624?browseid=12046476 http://www.coolminiornot.com/358135?browseid=12046476 http://demonwinner.free.fr/italy/2013/golden_demon_winner.php?categorie=5 Specifically the first two minis are all done with highlighted metallics instead of NMM: http://demonwinner.free.fr/spain/2012Barcelona/golden_demon_winner.php?categorie=5
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May 8, 2015 18:41
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