|
Al-Saqr posted:hey guys, what's the difference between 'contrast' and 'Color washes'? I just realized none of the paints and washes sets I got contain something called a 'contrast paint', is it necessary? A lot of videos are mentioning stuff like ‘Nuln oil contrast’. I ordered a bunch of paints and dont really want to order any more, are they essential to painting mini's well? A contrast paint is like a regular paint but it flows into and shades the recesses without any need for any other stuff, so you can use it as a base colour and it'll also do the shading for you. They're useful, especially for batch painting, but not necessary, and better on stuff with a lot of recesses and surface detail. A wash just goes into the recesses only, so it's just for shading, it won't stain the raised areas of a model (too much at least, it's a good idea to touch up with your base colour after). This goes into extra detail, if it helps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRMD86LWN9Q
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2022 12:28
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 12:56 |
|
|
Arcturas posted:Paint thinning question for you all. I’ve normally spray primed my minis and then painted using thinned GW, Vallejo, or Army Painter paints, seems pretty standard. (Mostly matte medium to thin, I wasn’t very good at thinning with water. Also I’ve painted like twenty or thirty minis over the last five years, so I still consider myself a novice.) I've not needed to thin vallejo primer when brushing it on, but results may vary of course. One thing you might need to keep in mind is that either way it's going to look like you have garbage coverage when you put it on with a brush, but that's actually fine in my experience, it won't affect painting over it - so don't worry too much if the primer coat looks super patchy.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2023 12:06
|
|
|
Quick question: I've been magnetising a lot of stuff recently, do I need to mask the contact points when priming/painting? I feel like I probably don't, but it never hurts to be sure.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2023 20:35
|
|
|
Spitfires posted:I have some pots of citadel paints that are getting to be 4+ years old and a few of them have congealed. Some of them haven't yet but they are *very* thick so I'm wondering if I should add a couple drops of water and vortex mix them to compensate a little for what moisture has evaporated. I've restored dried paints with a 50/50 mix of matte medium/water before (note that this will change the finish though). If it's still thick after mixing give it a day and then add some more, it can take a while of doing this but I've brought back completely dry paints before (but if they're that dry they need to crumble easily for this to work though - if the paint remains are solid or rubbery the pigment won't dissolve).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 3, 2023 06:35
|
|
|
I've used their colourshift stuff for battletech canopies and some sword blades and it seems to work well enough on them, the effect isn't massively visible, but the colour is nice enough. needs a a lot of coats done perpendicular (a vertical coat, then a horizontal coat, then repeat as necessary) to pop though. The colour I have (forest flux) can sorta be "forced" to colourshift by putting down more coats in the area I want it to, but idk if any of the others act like that.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2023 16:07
|
|
|
I don't know if it'll be different since they changed them but my bottle of VGC black is pretty noticeably thin yeah, even compared to a lot of the other colours I have; i just thin it waaay less than i would normally. I don't really worry too much about the coverage or anything either cause I go over it with a grey-black anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2023 05:29
|
|
|
Question: I'm looking for a way to tint metallic armour without just making it outright a metallic colour. Like, I'm looking for a way to make silver armour slightly purplish, but not outright purple, if that makes sense, maybe a metallic lilac or something like that. Is there anything anyone could recommend for that? I have some purple ink that I could try, but I don't know if I should opt for a pale contrast paint or something (probably dreadful visage or magos purple) considering that I probably wouldn't need use it for anything else.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2023 00:56
|
|
|
I got started from around 3rd to early 5th edition and I do not remember ever being told to prime first, either by GW publications or store staff, there were recommendations to use spray paint for undercoating but iirc that was mostly a time saver thing than actual priming. I still have most of my models from that period and i have absolutely no idea how I managed to only end up with a few of them looking absolutely awful (there is a monolith that I have that desperately needs paint stripping though that I keep putting off for obvious reasons).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2023 19:10
|
|
|
Any yellow paint generally needs an undercoat of white or pink (oddly enough) before going over in yellow, yeah.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2023 21:01
|
|
|
Asciana posted:So i've just bought my first box of minis after like 10 odd years of not painting and my old Citadel Foundation paints look a bit worse for wear (my VGC ones are pretty much perfect though!) Is there anything I can do to salvage the Foundation ones or should I just get new ones (I think they're called Base paints now, is that right?) First check how "solid" all the paints are, are they completely solid or are they kind of like a sludge like consistency? The less solid they are the easier they are to salvage. Even if they're completely dry as well, if they crumble easily (test with a sculpting tool or w/e) that's also recoverable, though it takes more time, if they're somewhat rubbery in texture and don't come apart easily they're more trouble than they're worth. In either case though, what you need is a 1:1 mix of water and medium (i used matte medium for mine, and you'll probably want that as well as it'll affect the paint finish), ideally in something like a dropper bottle or something like that. You want this rather than just water because it'll stop the paint getting too thin. If your paint is semi liquid, just add several drops, mix it, and repeat until it's at a consistency that you want. You might want to leave things to settle for a day or so too, I don't know if it helps, but I generally did this process over a few days rather than all at once. If your paint is solid but crumbly, the process is the same but you gotta break up the paint up as fine as possible so that it dissolves easier, this is where a sculpting tool or other metal tool will come in handy; once that's done it's just a case of doing the above paragraph, except with being a little more forceful with your mixing - basically act like your paint pot is a miniature mortar and pestle (you could use an actual mortar and pestle but the cleanup will be hell and you'll waste a lot of paint). When everything's done you can transfer the paint to a dropper bottle if you prefer (you can even use the old foundation labels!) and/or you can just put an agitator in there to keep everything mixed. I've done this process and recovered two foundation paints (a little bit of mechrite red and some orkhide shade) as well as some early 2000s era regular paints. It is a long process though, especially with completely dried out paint, so make sure it's a colour that you actually want to save.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2023 03:19
|
|
|
Kylaer posted:Also I think my issues with contrast paints were indeed likely due to me loving up the priming, as several of you said. Yeah, brush primer isn't really meant to have even coverage; if you plan to brush prime again it's best to put on a basecoat of something first, then contrast it.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2023 01:27
|
|
|
poop chute posted:Re: agitators, I think at this point everyone except GW includes a mixing ball. I know Army Painter and Two Thin Coats do, for sure, and I think the revamped Game Color paints have them as well. New VGC does not have agitators included, I think the only vallejo bottles that do are the VMC ones.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2024 17:34
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 12:56 |
|
|
Nessus posted:I have not even opened it, the shape was just terrifying me in its alien design. Am I lifting the thing with the metal wire out to brush on glue, or is it like I'd be squeezing down the metal wire to drip it into the cracks? It's a tube.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2024 02:47
|
|