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krushgroove posted:
1/10 no ring etc Nice work, I'll provide a full review when I get hold of them!
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Mar 21, 2015 12:20
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You're good people, and you painted good minis.
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Mar 21, 2015 17:38
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DiHK posted:Hey I want this airbrush argument to continue for a few more pages so someone tell me just what "airbrush thinner" is and whether or not I can use tap water instead. Well, the suit and the airbrush (and the air) are made of chemicals too, so you're pretty much hosed.
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Apr 3, 2015 08:37
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Moola posted:I definitely want something I can roll up when not using so probably not going to try getting a big board or something, but might try vinyl if its actually fold-able without damaging it Just buy one. It's like £15 delivered to your door for 3 huge ones http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/16012555...969R7422GWA6TW8
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Apr 6, 2015 09:24
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You should be aware, though, that paints thinned won't generally work as well as washes/inks at being washes/inks, because paints are particles in suspension whereas washes and inks are usually coloured solutions. If you dilute paints too far, they start being too thin to actually colour things effectively.
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Apr 11, 2015 19:54
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Unzip and Attack posted:Any recommendations for a spray matte coating that will protect minis from table use? Preferably something I can get online. Testor's Dullcote is the thread's usual recommendation. That or Future Floor Wax.
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Apr 12, 2015 17:41
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Make the flame white. Not close to white, white. The hottest part of a given OSL flame (or the emitting element for a light) should be the brightest part of the effect, and white is brighter and anything else for this purpose, and works well for artificial elements like jet exhausts. The colour of the effect comes from the surroundings. The alternative is to use smoke rather than light which looks good for assault marine exhausts and is easier to do IMO.
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Apr 18, 2015 15:17
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Those are probably way too fat. Brass rod is best. 1mm is about right for a small banner, 2mm for a larger one. Alternatively, buy a bulk pack of paperclips, use that.
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Apr 21, 2015 17:41
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True, true. The big heavy-duty paperclips should do fine as banner poles, but brass rod should be the go-to I think.
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Apr 21, 2015 19:13
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Big Willy Style posted:Yeah that is mega dumb. Lets charge people to experience a really great promotional tool. Promotional tools are otiose in a niche.
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Apr 27, 2015 17:16
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El Estrago Bonito posted:If they're old metal jacks you can also use Pinesol or nail polish remover on them. This is the real answer. If they're metal, make with the plastic-melting poo poo.
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Apr 30, 2015 08:19
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Mostly I use a thick gel-consistency gap-filling CA glue or epoxy to attach the models to the bases. A lot depends on the base and mini, though; it's a lot easier to base well on a flat base with a flexible mini like a Bone, than to base on a bumpy, convex, or concave surface with a metal mini. But then, I'm not a very good painter, so take that with a pinch of salt 
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May 3, 2015 18:25
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Doctor Borris posted:My locall shop only has GW primer so I am stopping by to ask the preferred primer of painters Here for plastics. I heard good things about rustoleum, anyone else have ideas? There aren't aNY other hobby shoppes round these parts. You're going to the wrong shop. Go to a DIY shop/home centre, not a hobby shop. Pick up spray primer there. It will be cheaper and better.
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May 23, 2015 08:47
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Works fine for me, that's where I got rust-oleum grey rattlecan primer from before I started painting bones and not needing it any more. Definitely better than GW.
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May 23, 2015 11:40
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Homebase do Plasti-kote and Rust-oleum primers which are both good.
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May 23, 2015 16:28
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zVxTeflon posted:Painting goons what am I doing wrong here. I put a wash on this X-wing ship and its dirtying up the overall ship well enough but nothing is really collecting in the nooks and corners. Am i just watering it down too much? Im using about a 50:50 water/wash ratio. How do i get it to bring out the details more without making it too grey in the other areas any more? Sorry the pic sucks but my phone really hates focusing on anything close up Did you clean the mini first? It's possible the wash isn't sitting in the crevices because the crevices are already full of something oily or whatever. Most washes don't need to be watered down, by the by - but you do usually need to touch up the high spots afterwards to avoid them getting dingy.
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May 28, 2015 16:58
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Yup, a tackle box is probably the best solution.
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Jun 21, 2015 10:28
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General location helps to inform advice.
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Jun 27, 2015 20:54
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Nope, current UK recommendation is dettol after they changed the formula on Fairy Power Spray IIRC. Don't dilute it at all, keep it in a well0sealed glass container, wear gloves when you're scrubbing, scrub and rinse well.
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Jul 5, 2015 13:57
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Or what. It's a bit difficult to tell given the lighting, but it looks clean and reasonably well shaded. We'd be much better able to tell if it wasn;t backlit.
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Jul 5, 2015 14:45
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Milotic posted:Bugger, you can't leave finecast in it for more than a couple of hours. My Obliterators and Havocs are suffering from wet noodle weapons and bits are breaking off them. The one plastic model havoc is fine. Lesson for the day: ALWAYS test a spare bit of a model in whatever new stripper you want to use, for at least as long as you intend to use it, before you try with anything you care about.
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Jul 6, 2015 20:32
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Bachtere posted:Hey, I finished a thing! This year no less! gently caress yeah Bachtere is bach. Back. Great work, I've really missed seeing your stuff in this thread!
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Jul 13, 2015 17:24
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Moola posted:I'd rather half-rear end it for cheap tbh Fine sand plus PVA will tend to look like gravel or sand rather than mud.
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Jul 18, 2015 20:32
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Run it under cold water water for 10 minutes. Your finger that is not the sand.
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Jul 18, 2015 21:46
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Seriously, using card for big bases is a pain in the rear end. Get some plasticard or thin plywood.
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Jul 24, 2015 18:08
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It's the latter. The site wouldn't exist if 'people' weren't willing to throw literally millions of dollars at their horrible dickmonsters.
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Jul 24, 2015 23:33
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Direwolf posted:Been a long time since I've put anything together... minor conversion but due to the sculpt it took nearly 2 hours and I'm still not sure about it. The conversion looks weird to me because how is he going to swing that axe past those horns without popping his own head off...?
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Jul 27, 2015 17:09
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It starts curing right away, so leaving it for a little while will make it a little firmer and a little less sticky, but not much. Leaving it to cure for a long while will make it carvable/sandable, rather than mouldable which can be good for making weapons and such. For basing pads you're probably fine to coat them with some sort of release agent then just plop fresh GS down onto them.
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Jul 27, 2015 19:38
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No.
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Aug 8, 2015 15:39
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I'd take a wild stab at make fire, possibly make noxious fumes, probably burn your house down. be sure to livestream the attempt 
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Aug 8, 2015 16:49
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You will probably get some hot, slightly soft plastic. It's a chemical as well as physical change when acrylic paint cures, as I understand it.
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Aug 8, 2015 17:05
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Only if you really want muscly green minis.
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Aug 8, 2015 17:29
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Kommando posted:Oh, ok. Just use dish soap. But if you felt like cutting off some spare bits of Bonesium (the bases are usually removed by most painters anyway) and testing them in various solvents, I'd certainly be interested in the results!
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Aug 10, 2015 08:21
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This is correct on both counts. Bones don't need priming, hard plastic (usually ABS I think) do, but primers won't be sticky and not dry the way they do on Bones.
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Aug 30, 2015 09:20
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Ceramite white sucks balls. I've lost two or possibly 3 pots of it in the last 6 months. I really want to look at investing in a full set of non-GW paints.
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Aug 31, 2015 21:50
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I know, but  DO NOT GIVE GW MONEY and all that.
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Aug 31, 2015 22:04
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BULBASAUR posted:Exactly what battle brother SRM says. I paint my models with little bits of glued to their legs so it's easier: You should clearly base them still glued to the painting stands and make stiltmarines.
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Sep 2, 2015 17:27
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Given your situation that's outstanding. Even if you weren't in that situation it's pretty good, better than the average rank-and-file guy by a good deal. When you've finished your rehab you should learn to paint with both hands at the same time. Double speed!
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Sep 6, 2015 18:13
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I'm pretty sure he spent longer one one single tentacle than I have on any single mini.
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Sep 10, 2015 17:02
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 01:24 |
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serious gaylord posted:He paints in a really interesting way. Almost all of that mini is done with glazes and then final edge highlights. Its a level of skill I just cant fathom. Yeah - the one that really impresses me most of his is the Dark Eldar Scourge diorama. Those wings are INSANE. http://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/dark-eldar-diorama-scourge-wings-step.html
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Sep 10, 2015 17:59
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