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Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

lilljonas posted:

I've painted since the 90's on and off and has never bought a paint set with more than five paints. And even those times I bought a specific camo set with 4-6 paints, at least some of them ended up unused. Paint sets are mostly traps IMHO.

Ironically, the only paint set I've ever been happy with was a Citadel beginner's set. Not as cheap as, like, a VMC 16-bottle camo set but everything in it ended up in constant use.

The Stirland Mud even looks just like the sandy/gritty Vallejo texture pastes, once you paint it.

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Feb 6, 2024

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Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Lucinice posted:

I got one of those dinky airbrushes with a built in compressor because I heard decent for priming and it is but only for black primer. Is white primer uncooperative because I'm using a crappy airbrush or is white primer just never going to be good?

white primer isn't especially useful for anything, that's all. a dedicated primer should make a tight, thin coat, which means white will always be translucent unless you put way too much on. plus, you need to darken a white coat anyway to give a model depth.

get vallejo grey primer. it will always serve as a good primer coat, then you can base-coat with whatever color you really want.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Lucinice posted:

So if I want to use contrast style paint would the grey be good enough for that or would I need to put white paint/ink over it?

you'd probably want to put actual white paint over it, yeah. i would even suggest an off-white color, a very pale beige or grey, depending on the overall look you want.

personally i am not a fan of a zenithal because it's easier to darken a contrast paint scheme than lighten it.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
you can also pretty easily make a base gradient a lot like a zenithal by basecoating (off-)white and putting on black wash/contrast first

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
I don't know what you own but this might help you find a nice substitute.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Douche Phoenix posted:

I might want a brighter white for dry brushing, how's the coverage on Proacryl White?

good but if you haven't bought it yet, just buy a Liquitex or Golden or Windsor & Newton heavy body titanium white, especially for a nice white to drybrush with

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Mederlock posted:

I dunno, I have that liquitex titanium white and find the Pro acrylic bold titanium white to be better, except for dry brushing I guess

the heavy body, really? huh. i admittedly like thicker paints like VMC or Citadel Base but it's been consistently wonderful for me

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Spanish Manlove posted:

The move is to throw them away or use them to drybrush weather things. Then buy some Vallejo metal color for steels, and AK or Scale75 for golds. Or use yellow contrast paint on steel color VMC

this is nonsense, the citadel metallics range from basically fine to best in class, particularly Retributor Gold

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Yeast posted:

That class just happens to be ‘best of the rest’

retributor gold is genuinely excellent

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Nessus posted:

I was quite sad to see the two links to the 'recommended starting/picking-back-up kit' stuff on Reaper in the OP have apparently expired. Was there some updated version of that? I'm far enough along at this point that I'm actively clearing out space for small mans, possibly wildly underestimating the necessary scope.

the OP is from 2015 and the poster hasn't posted in years. we could probably do with a new thread. i could just make one.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
anyway link to stuff if you think it should go in the new OP

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

that is not a bad set but i was going to see if i could find ones that use the newer, higher-quality paints (from VGC and others)

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

:confused:

Vallejo model/game colour are good quality. The main weakness of a few of their starter sets is the inexplicable decision to include an orange but not a red.

VGC just did a whole new line revamp, and the linked set comes with the old paints and is on the way out anyway. old VGC was fine, i'm not knocking it, it's just that the new stuff is nicer.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Razor Jacksuit posted:

Yeah I have a similar request to all of this: I want to get back into painting, but with my kids. I have plenty of Reaper bones and other stuff from my pile o' shame for them to brutalize, but what are some inexpensive-but-still-appropriate-for-miniatures paints I can buy to get them started while keeping them away from daddy's expensive paint pots?

how inexpensive is inexpensive and how old are the kids

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Nessus posted:

Seems fair. I have the advantage of having done this poo poo before, I just don't have any of the tools any more, although I do already have hobby snips I got for assembling Gunpla models. However, at the time I also had a FLGS where I was doing some semi-public work in their 'build and paint here, friends!' workbench area, which meant if I realized 'oh I need a file' I could either briefly use the store's kit or go pay $5-$10 for what I want.

Though I did look up actual FLGSeses in my area. Do Warhammer/Games Workshop outlets give you any poo poo if you work outside of the James Workshop Approved Equipment, or is it more 'don't expect them to hold a WMH tournament'

your gunpla snips are fine. probably nicer than the ones most wargamers use. i am just working on a beginner/intermediate/advanced tool list right now.

GW stores really depend on the manager. non-GW models and non-GW paints are the diciest things in their spaces but i've never been to one where the manager was so neurotic that he cared about your knife or drill or whatever when coming in on hobby day.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Razor Jacksuit posted:

"Less expensive than Citadel" would be the tsrating point I think. The kids are 7 and 10. Like I know people will suggest craft paints for terrain, but I undertsand that really cheap paints will just frustrate beginning painters.

cool, everything is cheaper than citadel.

basically every competitor to citadel that you can buy in a store is cheaper per bottle and has a larger bottle. vallejo model color, vallejo game color, ak interactive 3rd, two thin coats, pro acryl, and scale75 are all great lines and you should be able to find them in wargame shops or scale modelling shops. reaper, P3, mission models, lifecolor, ammo by mig, and vallejo mecha are essentially fine. skip tamiya, mr. hobby, testors, and any other solvent-based acrylic; they're not bad paints, but they're fiddlier and more toxic. in general, these paints will run from about $2-4 for a 15-22ml container, or else a comparable price at a different size.

heavy body or soft body artist acrylics will run you about $10-15 for a 59ml tube. golden, windsor & newton, and liquitex are all great. this is proper fine art paint, but still cheaper than miniatures paints with the gamer/scale modeller tax. you do need to avoid toxic pigments: cadmium paints and lead white are toxic unless they are "cadmium hue" or "lead white hue", which are imitators made with mixes of non-toxic materials. also, avoid slow-drying acrylic paints like golden's Open line. these you can get in an art supply or general craft store (like michael's or hobbycraft).

golden basics are about the best "craft" paints i've found, and probably the lowest-quality paints i'd recommend for miniatures. they're fine-quality, just not as pigment-dense, so they'll need to apply paint in layers. good for them to learn that but it does require a longer attention span and faith that the final product will look nice, which can be hard for younger kids. these are so ubiquitous you might even find them in, like, wal-mart, but a general craft store is your best bet.

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Feb 21, 2024

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Cardboard Fox posted:

This may sound odd, but does anyone use covers for specific portions of their miniatures they have already painted? I want to try a metallic drybrush along with a leather drybrush that is around the same area, and I was wondering if there was something I could use to cover the bracer I have already completed? Maybe some kind of light tape that wont peel the paint?

masking putty is probably your best bet. masking tape might work but i think you'd get buildup at the tape edge, as well as adhesion problems.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

BizarroAzrael posted:

How much better is Pro Acryl than Vallejo? I keep seeing the former recommended but it's easier for me to find the later. Right now this is mostly for airbrush primer, although I might like to get Pri Acryls Titanium white as after 25 years citadel still seem to be unable to make a good white

vallejo game color with the bold, sans-serif "VALLEJO GAME COLOR" is the new line from 2022 and excellent. new VGC, pro acryl, two thin coats, and ak interactive 3rd gen are all top-of-the-line and comparable. (apparently so is AP warpaints fanatic but that's not properly out yet.)

primer usually isn't there to make a solid coat of color. imo use vallejo grey primer (which is a polyurethane paint, not a traditional acrylic) then apply whatever paint you actually want as the basecoat.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

oh hell yeah

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
aliexpress gets a lot of binned-out merchandise so it can be a real crapshoot. it's fine for bulk items where you can just eat some lossage yourself, but i wouldn't buy anything there if the materials or brand are important.

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Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
new painting thread is up (and will have :effort: added shortly)

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