Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Z the IVth posted:

There are a couple of shots of cut up screen tone sheets. I'm surprised it looks as good as it does from all angles. I always thought these gimmicky paint schemes were mono-angle only.

For certain kinds of NMM it can look bad at any angle that isn't the one the artist painted it at (and you used to see a lot of those ~10 years ago or so), but I think the fact that it is intentionally 'manga'-esque in monochrome color and detail is what makes that robot kit work.

Good photography probably helps it, too.

# ¿ May 7, 2015 15:53

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 12:19

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

BULBASAUR posted:

Vallejo Liquid Gold is the poo poo, good sir

As is VMA steel.

# ¿ May 8, 2015 03:00

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

treeboy posted:

apologies if this is common knowledge, but i've been out of TG for awhile. I've been having a ton of issues with Seraphim Sepia that I swear I never had with Gryphonne Sepia. Particularly i used to do a really awesome 'antique gold' effect with chainmail/boltgun and 2-3 layers of gryphonne, it'd come out a really slick dark gold color pretty quickly, but i swear the coverage on seraphim is poo poo, i'm 3-4 applications into the process and instead of a nice gold color its a dirty silver.

did i get a bad batch? i bought the pot a couple weeks ago and just got around to using it, looks like there's a fair amount of sludge sitting in the bottom that doesn't want to mix back into the wash, or is this par for the course?

The sludge on the bottom means that the ingredients in the wash have separated, and there's little to no way to save it. You're better off getting another bottle.

If you like the old Sepia color, Army Painter has a set of washes that are a very close match to the old GW ones. I can vouch for their Strong Tone being basically Devlan Mud and Dark Tone being Badab Black, so I assume their Soft Tone would be a match for Gryphonne Sepia. Grab'em from TheWarStore or another online retailer for like 15-20% off.

# ¿ May 9, 2015 17:45

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

I think I remember someone in this thread (or the old painting thread) mention that you could recover it using matte medium and/or flow aid, but at that point you're putting more money into saving that pot than it would take just to buy a new one.

And at that point, you may as well go the extra mile and start making your own washes, as detailed in the OP.

# ¿ May 9, 2015 19:41

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

berzerkmonkey posted:

GAH! Screw you Army Painter spray!

I spray an entire army and my VMC paints will not stick to the models because the AP is too smooth. gently caress. Now I have to hope that a light dullcote will give me enough tooth without ruining things (washes, in particular.) I don't want to have to strip, rebase, and prime an entire army again.

I've had that happen before and yeah, a coat or two of matte varnish does the trick.

# ¿ May 12, 2015 16:52

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Thundercloud posted:

Tabletop standard rank and file. Look pretty good from a couple of feet away. May paint up a couple more models and have a Word Bearer squad.

Honestly with just a bit of line highlighting here and there you can make them just a touch above tabletop standard.

# ¿ May 25, 2015 20:22

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Chill la Chill posted:

Hey guys, I've finally been able to start looking for an airbrush compressor. I've had the sotar 2020 for a year now but never had the space to use it.

I think people here said that the TC-20 model is a good one. If so, what's the difference between this and this one? They both look the same and are both from TCP so I might as well pay $10 extra to get the general purpose air brushes too.

I'm looking around and it seems that's the lowest price but if there's a place that sells it cheaper, plz link me. Or if there's a better model I should get for the 2020. Thanks.

You're better off getting a compressor with a tank in it. This one is good for the price, and isn't much more expensive than the TC-20 (and the new/used section below makes it cheaper). I can speak from personal experience that the addition of a tank has made airbrushing a much easier experience for me; I can paint for longer without worrying about the compressor getting too hot, and gives you a constant supply of cool air to work with. It also runs a lot less, meaning less wear on the mechanical components, and less noise too. It takes up about the same amount of room as the TC-20, so if you have a space for that, you have a space for this.

I'd advise getting an airbrush holder too, while you're at it, if only for convenience.

# ¿ Jun 9, 2015 17:31

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

krushgroove posted:

I have a question for you guys...about models like this:

What do you guys think about this? Is this the new hotness for players & collectors? It seems to be, from what I see.

I realize I'm asking people who paint a lot of models but this trend of glow effects on every part of the model is weird/annoying to me. It looks like this started out as a way to inject variations of color, spot color, etc., but it's grown into something that looks like a failed 3D HDR Flickr album.

I see people posting this sort of thing on Facebook and getting loads of Likes (maybe not this example so much)... I'm also trying to sell model painting service via Facebook & ebay but my examples just don't stand out next to this, because it's more realistic and gritty (I'm aware I need more & better examples and I've got some stuff that will be finished in the next few weeks, so far I've been showing off only the blue Knights I painted last year and my recently painted superheavies).

I guess my question is what do you guys think of this, and how do I make my own stuff stand out when it's posted alongside this kind of thing? I try to emphasize my building, magnetizing and straightforwardness and this tack is working, but slowly, I know I need to build up my 'portfolio' and repeat business but to grab the attention of new people it's frustrating that this sort of thing seems to garner so much attention.

It looks like hot dog-poo poo.

From a distance it's a blurred mess, akin to low-res textures in a video game; up close, you'd see all these details and parts that weren't painted, of which there seems to be plenty. It's a quick and simple airbrush job, which would be acceptable if you're getting something done the day before a tournament or want to experiment, but for 'pro' painting it's sloppy and lacks any proper painting skill. The guy didn't even cover up the mold line on the back thrusters, and it's plainly obvious right from that first picture.

All it really serves is to wow people who think airbrushing is some mythical art that takes years of skill. The only part of that whole model I like is the base, and even then the snow looks like poo poo.

# ¿ Jun 11, 2015 14:09

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Ghost of Babyhead posted:

Love those checkerboard patterns. Is there any particular trick to them (beyond, I assume, having steady hands?)?

I can't speak for SRM, but from my own experience, using an artist pen is your best bet for checkered patterns barring an airbrush and stencil. Grab one of the Micron pents, size .01 or .005; these are great tools to have and are perfect for drawing out patterns, lettering, or anything else you think might require black lines over smooth surfaces. Usually found at Michaels and AC Moore if you're in the states.

When doing checkers, apply white paint beforehand--this is just easier and less of a hassle to fill in later. Whenever using one of these pens, be sure to put on a layer of matte varnish first, otherwise you run the risk of ruining the paint and/or the tip of the pen. You can either fill in the black squares with the pen, or use paint, and it will depend on the size of the checkers (small infantry-sized ones, may as well use the pen).

# ¿ Jun 14, 2015 19:19

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Skarsnik posted:

Typhus Incoming:

This is some pro poo poo dude.

# ¿ Jun 27, 2015 16:13

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

ShowTime posted:

So i'm thinking of getting some commissioned work done and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it or perhaps does it themselves. I'm just looking at what kind of prices I should be expecting. I have maybe 25 small based, 30 medium based and 10 large based figures (Warmachine/Hordes) that i'd like painted with moderate attention to detail. Basically if level 1 is just the basics and level 5 is professional studio/product images, i'd be looking at getting a 2 (if that makes any sense). Everything i'm interested in getting done is already assembled and primed.

Also, what kind of turnaround time is normal? And does anyone have any recommendations for painters that will do commissions?

Pricing for commissions vary between painters. They control the price, which gives them some leverage for negotiating, and most are willing to work with a customer on prices depending on what level of detail you want. I can't really speak for other painters but I like to keep my prices pretty reasonable, $8-10 for average-sized 28mm models (space marine size, more or less). Larger stuff obviously increases in cost but not by much, unless it's something the size of a Warhound Titan or Colossal.

Turnaround time also varies, depending on how much you're tossing at someone (and whether you just want a quick base color and wash or actual tabletop quality poo poo). For me, again, I'd probably get that done in about a month.

thespaceinvader posted:

General location helps to inform advice.

This is also important. Are you stateside? In the UK? Somewhere else? I find that not a whole lot of commission painters want to ship beyond their borders since it's so often a hassle they don't want to deal with.

# ¿ Jun 27, 2015 21:44

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

For what it's worth, I've had similar results with 90% isopropyl alcohol as you did with denatured alcohol. It took longer, probably 2 hours, but I could scrub most of the paint off pretty easily after that.

# ¿ Jul 5, 2015 19:07

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

EDIT: also I said NON airbrush

VMA Steel is like the best silver out there and goes on with a brush just fine. Grab it, you won't be disappointed.

# ¿ Jul 7, 2015 23:54

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Another option, if you're willing to go through the effort, is the ol' hairspray chipping method.

# ¿ Jul 8, 2015 18:36

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

PantsOptional posted:

Any advice for making lovely phone pics of a game in progress come out less lovely? I know how to do the basic lightbox and white balancing stuff at home, but I don't bring a lightbox and an actual camera with me to the store when playing.

Your best bet is an actual camera, because a phone one isn't going to cut it--especially at that store's lighting (which is shiiiiiit).

# ¿ Jul 14, 2015 22:59

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Skarsnik posted:

I have an incredibly masculine setup as befits this noble hobby

I struggle to paint under a lamp, so it's always a window for me

e: the tea in that pot is an oolong called IRON GODDESS OF MERCY

and it has a light apricot flavour

That actually looks super comfy and cozy and with a nice view too. :3:

# ¿ Jul 15, 2015 20:08

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Skarsnik posted:

Yeah it totally is, though I would describe the view of Cardiff as interesting rather than nice

Well I mean 'nice' as in 'above ground floor.'

To compare, my shades are perpetually drawn because the pull chain is busted and I can't raise or open the blindes, and even if I could all I'd see is more condos and the occasional stray cat.

# ¿ Jul 15, 2015 20:39

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

I really hate how old bottles of Vallejo paint didn't have any numbers or names on them, so trying to find a replacement color becomes a total bitch and a half.

Especially when it's a grey color because good lord do they have a ton of grey paints. Ugh.

Edit: maybe someone else with a better eye can help me out here. It's a VMA grey color, but with no name or number on it I can't really figure out which one it is.

It's a kind of dark-ish grey, but not VMA USAF Dark Grey, and you can see it on the edge of the shoulder pad below.

Slimnoid fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jul 17, 2015

# ¿ Jul 17, 2015 21:31

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Mr.Booger posted:

Looks like either Medium or Dark (more like medium) Sea Grey?

Vallejo Model AIR - MED SEA GREY -71.049

Hm, yeah, that might be a match. I'll probably just order both Dark and Medium just to be on the safe side (plus hey, more grey paint is always welcome). Thanks.

# ¿ Jul 17, 2015 21:58

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Pierzak posted:

They did. They rub off easily, though.

Really?

# ¿ Jul 17, 2015 22:09

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Pierzak posted:

Yep! Reaper's do the same. I pasted clear tape on them to remember which ones are which...only for the print to react with the adhesive and disappear in a matter of minutes

That I'm well aware of, as that's happened to me several times, but I dunno I always thought Vallejo's labels were of a better quality.

Guess I'm gonna go and marker the whole lot of'em just to be sure.

# ¿ Jul 17, 2015 22:45

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

ijyt posted:

The black definitely looks like a smoother finish, but personally I probably wouldn't use either.

Also, first time converting nurgle stuff - does anyone have tips or tricks? Currently trying to make the wings that came with the model ragged but its a bit tough with the thick plastic. This is what I have so far.

It's looking good so far. If you want to do pustules, I find that taking a plastic hollow rod or really small drinking straw (really, any suitably sized tube) works best for that. Put down a glob of greenstuff, push the tube into it, then twist into a circle and pull off. You'll have a glob right there with minimal effort, and lets you make a bunch of them all at once! Just spread the sides out with a modeling tool a bit for a more natural transition.

Also, this: http://fantasygames.com.pl/blog/nurgle-daemonic-skin/

# ¿ Jul 19, 2015 14:41

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

w00tmonger posted:

I remember that thread :allears:

# ¿ Jul 20, 2015 20:16

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Finished up some Malifaux stuff. Collodi and his little doll friends.

# ¿ Jul 22, 2015 19:36

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Partial Octopus posted:

Should I be thinning vallejo surface primer or can I just go straight into an airbrush with it?

It should go through as-is without a problem.

# ¿ Jul 23, 2015 20:31

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Moola posted:

isnt this going to make the bottom of the base uneven though???

Get some tacks and pin it down onto something first.

Failing that, just get some plasticard. An old For Sale sign is fine. I think you're trying too hard to get work out of an inferior product for what you're trying to do.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2015 17:57

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Moola posted:

I dont really wanna spend that much on terrain tbh

Might just make some baseless terrain instead

For Sale signs are stupidly cheap. You can either find them for free on the ground, or spend like a buck for a sheet of it. Hell, go to your dollar store equivalent and search around, you're bound to find something that would work better than card.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2015 18:19

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

Look for a political campaign for a cause or person you resent. Steal their signs.

No joke, those signs are made of corrugated plastic and make for great I-beams. Just cut between the thin vertical lines of plastic that separate both sides and you have yourself an I-beam for any sort of terrain or basing project you need.

A lot of print shops and DIY stores like Home Depot have them too, so you can purchase them there in just about any size.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2015 21:11

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Also, super pro tip: if you've got a bunch of greenstuff mixed and nothing to use it on, throw it in the freezer. It won't cure due to the cold, and if you take it out and let it get to room temp it'll be workable again.

It won't be quite AS good as freshly-mixed GS, but it's better than wasting a bunch of it.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2015 19:49

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

signalnoise posted:

Before I say what I did here, what do you think of this effect?

Blue foam or 3-D printed?

# ¿ Jul 30, 2015 01:59

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

signalnoise posted:

Badly shaken transparent white spraypaint

Welp. Think you should strip the primer off and try again, because it looks bad with that texture on it.

# ¿ Jul 30, 2015 02:14

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

crime fighting hog posted:

Why?

Quality varies wildly between batches. I had two bottles of Ghost Tint: Oil Discharge that when applied look entirely different from each other. Then there's the two bottles of yellow and orange ghost tint that are in fact, both yellow, because one of them got mislabeled.

The paints themselves leave a candy coat shine to them, which is easy to get around with some matte varnish, but it's a bit annoying nonetheless. Also, their metallics are straight-up garbage and the worst I've ever dealt with. If you use any of their ghost tints, they interact weirdly with Future/Pledge, so you need to hit them with (again) matte before you go for a gloss coat.

I got their paints for free so I can only complain so much, and I really do like their ghost tint line, but yeah they're not anywhere as good as the hype built them up to be. Badger needs to pay close attention to their quality control and maybe revamp their paint formula a bit. If you're looking for bulk paint for cheap, then 80+ bottles for $100 is a good bargain, but if you want some higher quality stuff then look elsewhere.

# ¿ Jul 31, 2015 15:37

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

JerryLee posted:

Does anyone more in-the-know than I am have any idea when the new Basius pads might be available at retail? The website has a speculative date of last May.

No idea. I could've sworn they were going to be sold through Mantic too, but I didn't see any on their site.

# ¿ Aug 4, 2015 14:51

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

signalnoise posted:

Montana Gold works great on bonesium

As does Krylon.

Really though, for bones, if you give it a thin layer of paint over it first you'll be fine. I typically hit it with one layer of airbrushed VMA white before I do anything else with it.

# ¿ Aug 4, 2015 23:39

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

GreenMarine posted:

First Cygnar I've painted.

I've done a bunch of Menoth in the past, so painting with blue is a new thing. Tried to keep it simple and fast, so I could paint up a bunch for a journeyman.

Consider doing some edge highlighting on the gold with silver, and perhaps some purple washes on the deepest recesses too. Really helps it look more rich and less flat.

# ¿ Aug 5, 2015 03:25

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

nesbit37 posted:

Also, anyone have good recommendations for tiered paint racks for reaper bottles for a desk?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8XLAM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=5ZRU6P99TCXH&coliid=I3JGSE9ISA381V

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VN31JO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=5ZRU6P99TCXH&coliid=I142S8ZXPYKH73

Nail polish racks are fairly cheap and fit Reaper/Vallejo bottles perfectly.

# ¿ Aug 5, 2015 21:44

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/24

Oh my god this solves SO many problems I've had with leaf flock, namely painting them different colors.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2015 13:55

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

krushgroove posted:

I need to get outside for a walk, I'm sure there must be walking trails nearby with loads of birch trees. I've paid for bags of the stuff but hell free leaves for models!

Bring a ziplock bag when you do, because that stuff will get EVERYWHERE otherwise.

Also, your location will depend on when they start dropping, as well as the species of the tree itself. It can be anywhere from late spring to early autumn, so you probably want to do a little research on that. Over here in New England we usually see them budding around mid-September straight on until November.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2015 16:47

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

So, I went and tinted some birch seed today for the first time.

These were from some pods I grabbed near the end of November 2013 and kept in a bag since then, hardly touched. Before I tinted anything I baked them in an oven as per the directions, and from there on followed exactly what the tutorial said. To speed up the drying time I threw each batch into the microwave on parchment paper at 15-second intervals, sifting the piles around and running them lightly through fingers to prevent clumping. I did this about 5 times for each batch.

Thoughts:

- Yellow is a pain in the rear end. It might have been from the paint I selected, but it came off as much more watered-down than the photo suggests, and there was more clumping than any of the other two. Yellow is just a pain in the rear end to work with anyway, but I think next time I'll try using GW Golden Yellow instead--there seems to be more pigment in there. Possibly tinting it with white first and then yellow, to make it pop more, but that might be more effort than is really worth it.

- If you want to do this in large batches you'd probably be better off ordering large bags of birch seed. Or you live near a bunch of birch trees or something. If you want to cover terrain with this stuff you're going to need a lot of it, basically, and this used up 3/4th of the bag I had, which was maybe a cup and a half worth of the stuff. It's more than enough for me for what I'm going to use it for, but army-wide stuff is going to be troublesome.

- I'm not sure what orange color this is but I am SUPER happy with the end result. Rust Brown worked great for a first try, and straddles the line between brown and red very well.

- I want to try other colors, like blue and purple and pink. Would make for some interesting alien terrain I think.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2015 20:19

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 12:19

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

everythingWasBees posted:

Do they not use cadmium pigments for yellows?

Hell if I know. If they do, it probably depends on the brand.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2015 22:19

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

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