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Looks like it, yeah.
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Mar 21, 2015 01:47
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Need to check if my instincts are correct. I'm painting up a goaty-looking demon lord and I want to make it look disgusting, bloated, and generally gross. I'm thinking a green undercoat with layers of brown/green mixed (with more brown added with each layer), possibly with a brown ink. Will this look horrible in the "oh god that's NASTY" sense, or will it look horrible in the "don't look at my shame" sense?
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Mar 27, 2015 14:07
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moths posted:As long as the base green is darker than the brown/green mixture you're highlighting with it should look fine. That's pretty much exactly my game plan, so it's good to know. The green I was considering for the base coat is some of the old Orkhide Shade, so it would be hard to find a darker green. Hadn't considered the ivory, though...
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Mar 27, 2015 14:39
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If I want to highlight bronze, would mixing bronze and gold be my best bet for the highlight color, or just gold, or something else? I am bad at figuring out metals.
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Mar 31, 2015 01:16
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Pretty sure that's a pen case for a moderately high-end pen (probably a fountain pen).
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Apr 6, 2015 01:23
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For the grip itself you could probably use a piece of guitar wire by snipping the ends, pulling out the core, and inserting a brass rod.
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Apr 7, 2015 20:07
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Just make sure you have the right tools for this (needle-nose pliers, wire cutters). You also want to take out the core of the guitar wire very slowly.
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Apr 7, 2015 20:36
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I wonder how well one of those furniture repair markers would do in a case like this?
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May 5, 2015 15:21
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Literally shaking right now from undrilled barrels
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Jun 10, 2015 17:17
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w00tmonger posted:Ive been trying to paint a model that I just primed and its been acting really weirdly. When I paint some areas of it, the paint doesn't seem to want to apply and instead just forms droplets on the surface. What kind of model?
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Jul 2, 2015 17:15
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Does anyone have any good advice for creating a sort of worn road line effect? I'm looking at making a landing pad terrain piece and I'd like the surface of it to look like when the yellow lines on a road have seen some wear and tear but are still clearly visible. If anyone knows how to get just that shade of yellow too I'd be grateful.
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Jul 8, 2015 15:07
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Hmm. Interesting options, both of them. I have a spare piece of material I can test both on and see which one I like. Thanks! As for the color, Rustoleum gives traffic line paintcolor as RGB 243:188:062 (hex F3BC3E), which will give me something to do today as 90% of my workload seems to be overseeing automated processes.
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Jul 8, 2015 15:31
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Any advice for making lovely phone pics of a game in progress come out less lovely? I know how to do the basic lightbox and white balancing stuff at home, but I don't bring a lightbox and an actual camera with me to the store when playing.
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Jul 14, 2015 22:39
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Kain Swiftblade, Reaper figure.
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Jul 16, 2015 15:45
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Moola posted:There is a dog in the house It'll make a great Knight or Titan depending on its size
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Jul 24, 2015 20:33
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I had a can of recently purchased Rusto grey primer that worked amazingly on the first batch of models and fuzzed up on the second batch. I have no idea what's going on there, but if I have to buy a new can at least it's cheap.
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Aug 19, 2015 14:35
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SRM posted:I don't think it can be emphasized enough how much cool stuff you can do with modern plastics: What head did you use for this?
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Aug 25, 2015 21:33
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I'm no science-type dude, but if you squeeze too much moisture out of the sponge before sealing up the wet palette, wouldn't the sponge then absorb the moisture from the paint? Sort of like how if you toss a slice of bread in with cookies, the cookies will stay moist and the bread will dry out.
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Sep 16, 2015 20:20
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Painting up a silver portion of a mini and I don't really want the dingy effect you sometimes get with a black ink - I want this to be a little brighter and shinier, like it was newer and more polished. Will inking it with blue instead make it look terrible? My thought is that it might lose some of the depth you get with a black ink, but I could very easily be wrong. (Maybe a mix of purple and blue might be a better idea?)
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Sep 16, 2015 22:08
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Slimnoid posted:Yeah, I'm going to be ordering a bunch of random stuff for painting experiments soon. Including the not-Doctor Who stuff as a gift for my god-daughter. I just started painting their "not a TARDIS for copyright purposes" and let me tell you, do not be a total sperg like me and try to find the exact match for the official Pantone shade of blue. It doesn't exist in any model or craft paints as far as I can tell. Besides, it's been like nine different shades of blue over the course of its history, pick something that's good enough.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:45
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SteelMentor posted:Quick practice at painting Alpha Legion in that funky metallic style. Can't exactly follow the Forge World style due to lack of airbrush, but working up layers of Guilliman Blue seemed to work out. Might look a little better on a less visually busy model. What's the undercoat beneath the Guilliman glazes?
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Nov 5, 2015 21:21
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SteelMentor posted:
Perfect, this was the step I had been missing. Thank you.
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Nov 17, 2015 23:13
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Originally posted in the 40K thread, but it got drowned out and might be more applicable here:quote:Pulled the trigger on ordering some Space Wolves for a friend to use in Kill Team. He's always been really interested in 40K and loves werewolves, crazy bearded barbarians, and dwarves, so this seemed a natural fit. However, I'm a little worried that the Thunderwolves will have a gap in the middle due to the big seam. Am I best off using liquid green stuff to patch this up, or will the normal stuff do?
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Dec 23, 2015 19:37
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Slimnoid posted:Normal GS should work for patching up seams. Liquid GS is more for smoothing out surfaces, really, as it does a poor job of gap-filling. It's not a bad idea to go over your patch with LGS if you want it to blend in a little with the surrounding area, though. Oh, poo poo, good call on the Marauders, I hadn't thought of that. When I get around to doing the Grey Hunters I'll definitely toss in some of those. I don't think I'm going to get a whole can of yellow spray primer for like nine dudes' shoulder pads but if he goes all in on the game after this I'll definitely make that investment. Thanks.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:52
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I don't know if this is related to why the price is so low, but there's a 3-4 month delay on delivery.
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Jan 8, 2016 16:05
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Indolent Bastard posted:Mine is prime shipped, 2 days as usual. I went with Standard, but it still only says 4-5 days for actual shipping. It shows the product itself as being delayed until March.
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Jan 8, 2016 17:44
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That crunching sound you hear is me smashing my Stormtalon to dust in a fit of jealous rage.
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Feb 12, 2016 19:15
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Picked up some Chaos Cultists and I'm looking to make them seem kind of unhealthy and generally off in some way, but not diseased. I'm definitely doing the flesh in a paler color than I normally do, since these guys are property of the Night Lords and barely ever see the light of day. I was thinking of doing the recesses with a red ink but I don't know if that will achieve the sort of effect that I'm looking for precisely. Any advice?
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Feb 26, 2016 20:58
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For me, it's always been about the humidity more than the temperature. If it's above freezing I'm not out there long enough for it to matter, but if it's humid outside the priming will get hosed up. FAKE EDIT: From the OP: krushgroove posted:PRIMING
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Mar 9, 2016 20:57
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jadebullet posted:The only real way to get really good looking metal is to dip all of your figures in the molten remains of a Sisters of Battle army. It's a much better technique than TMM or NMM. That only really works for Grey Knights, though.
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Mar 18, 2016 20:41
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Tea and Hobnobs?
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Mar 28, 2016 03:09
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SteelMentor posted:Casual Racism. I thought that was New England.
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Mar 28, 2016 03:38
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These 3rd Street Saints Marines aren't gonna go around in blue, after all.
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May 3, 2016 17:48
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I picked up some Orks for a side project, and I was hoping to get a quick opinion poll going: is it better to use a black, brown, or green ink on Ork flesh? They'll be Deathskulls if that helps.
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Jul 8, 2016 23:57
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:GW Athonian Camoshade IMO, it's sort of a brownish-green rather than some of the brighter greens. gently caress me, I had no idea this existed. Will definitely give it a shot.
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Jul 9, 2016 01:07
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Foolster41 posted:
My kids are really into Undertale and I would love to do up one of these. What's the miniature itself (or, more likely, the conversion bits)?
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Jul 12, 2016 16:43
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Question about metal primers: I know that leaving black primer visible on a model is lovely and obvious but is it the same for metal primers? Got a dickload of Iron Warriors I gotta paint and I'd rather prime in metallic unless it looks lovely.
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Aug 7, 2016 18:56
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Yeah, my plan was to do washes, highlighting, seal, and do the brown oil wash and white spirits trick. Getting the spray will probably save me enough aggravation to be worth it.
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Aug 7, 2016 19:25
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If I'm looking to do a spray primer of a gunmetal color like Leadbelcher but I'm not into paying $20 for a can of the GW stuff, is the Army Painter Gun Metal spray my best option or is there a Rustoleum equivalent? I saw that Rusto has a "Dark Steel" but I can't tell how close it is to Leadbelcher.
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Aug 14, 2016 19:43
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 18:52 |
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If I use the Umber Paint + White Spirits technique on my Iron Warriors, what do I seal them with afterward?
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Aug 17, 2016 21:21
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