|
Anyone know of good online stores that carry a good chunk of the Hasslefree Miniatures range in the USA? The only one I know of that has more just a couple of their minis is Fantization, but they have a lot of gaps.
|
#
¿
Aug 24, 2015 18:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 04:18 |
|
|
Superglue: I have heard both things on this. Does it eath through paint and primer to form a bond, or do I need to chisel away some paint when super glueing painted parts together?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2015 23:44
|
|
|
I'm starting to use my Badger 360 airbrush more and just checked the Sotar out on Amazon out of curiosity on price. Cheaper than I was expecting, so what I am wondering is just how much difference am I going to notice from the 360, particularly for detail? I have the 0.2mm extra fine needle for my 360 and the lines and dots still seem a bit larger than I would have expected. Not sure if its just because that's as fine as the 360 goes and I should look at a 2nd detail only brush or I just have something set wrong.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2015 15:10
|
|
|
Ok great, sounds good. Yes, using the whole set with the high detail needle. Will keep fiddling with the 360 for now but ~$80 for the Sotar seems like I might just pick one up as a second air brush soon regardless. I plan on doing some higher detail work for the oath thread in September using the 360 and we'll just see how frustrating that does or does not turn out to be.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2015 20:36
|
|
|
I don't remember who it was because I asked a few months ago, but thanks to whoever suggested I brush on some talc powder to my silicon molds for better results. My resin casts have been coming out with far fewer errors on these 10mm models which is great since I started doing this a few days ago.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2015 15:55
|
|
|
I am going to order a form 1+ resin based 3d printer and a filament based printer with the extra cash I have in the budget for the maker space I run at work. I would love to use it occasionally for printing minis, especially 10mm and 28mm scale ones. Do any if you have any resources for getting started in that, be it just tips on doing the digital sculpture with casting in mind, places that do releases of open source models, etc?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2015 16:02
|
|
|
Cross posting from the oath thread. The ships are the first minis I have done 100% with an airbrush. Mixed feelings on them, especially the pegasus, but not unhappy with the results.       
|
|
#
¿
Sep 26, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
Cyclomatic posted:Is there a more paste like gap filler instead of the putty like green stuff? Not for sculpting, but repairing surfaces and filling in holes, where brittle is OK. Liquid greenstuff by GW and liquid putty by vallejo.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2015 22:18
|
|
|
Cross posting from the Oath thread. A bunch more 10mm LotR for the month with some of the units that fit into the Halloween theme. Terrifying bat swarms  Blood sucking spiders!  Terrifying ghosts of army of the dead (made these from left over pieces of miscasts)   Easterling Cataphracts to (maybe) chase them all away    Group shot 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2015 15:53
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:...What size brush are you using to paint the base coat? Using one that's too small will make it really hard to get an even coat,the 'right' size will vary depending on the size of area you are painting. The right size is almost always the largest size brush you can get away with using for that area IMO.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
Anyone have tips or links on ways to paint worn or battle damaged wooden shields that have images or heraldry painted on then? I have some ideas but it's new to me so I would love to read other's take on it before I go to the trial and error approach.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 15, 2015 21:31
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:This was my approach. Awesome thanks.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2015 00:16
|
|
|
SteelMentor posted:Is there some great secret to getting a nice clean white? Try as I might I never seem to get it either clean enough, or not looking too chalky/caked on. I just use the white I want and build it up in several thin coats. The trick is getting the paint watered down to a good consistency, since it usually helps to be a little thinner than you would normally use for highlighting but not by much. Usually the answer to anything that isn't smooth enough is more layers with a thinner paint.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2015 15:30
|
|
|
Anyone know of some companies that make good dog miniatures? Preferably with a few different breeds. I know Hasslefree has a couple, but I am hoping to find some more variety than the 1 or 2 offerings most companies I am seeing that has them provide.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 19, 2015 18:21
|
|
|
Having some minor one piece mold issues. Most of the molds I do are 2 piece and those work out fine, but this one piece mold I have made the resin on the top is getting super bubbly and leaving a good 3-5mm uneven surface that looks like a muffin. The piece in mold I care most about comes out fine, but its annoying to have to cut or sand off the resin on the bottom of it to get it flat as intended. Am I mixing the resin wrong and introducing too much air or something?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:How long does your resin take to set? 10 minutes to set and its old, like 9ish months old, so I wouldn't be surprised if that had part to do with it.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
Cross positing from the oath thread. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Oath for November complete! Claiming jurnal for the birch tree ent with fall leaves and the Bugbear Squash Squad. First up this month is a Birch Tree Ent wandering around in the fall season.   Next up is the Bugbear Squash Squad. Many creatures beyond the more civilized races also celebrate the fall harvest. The Bugbear is no different. Long ago they learned that the fall was a great time to send out squash squads to collect farmers as they labored. The Bugbear Squash Squads venture out to the fields in leather armor adorned to resemble squashes. Yellow studded greaves, lamellar adorned with gourds, and images of fall squashes on their shields. They rush out yelling "Squash!" as they beat them into jelly with their maces and clubs, and one with a sharp implement for skinning when necessary. Here the Bugbears make all of the Human Jam, Halfling Jelly and Elven Marmalade they need to sustain themselves through the cold season ahead.    Rohan spear and arrow units!  Everyone for the month in a group shot: 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2015 22:48
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:Medium red-brown base and 3-4 orange highlights of various tones. Using orange as the base always looks cartoony. Seconding the lighter orange instead of yellow. That hair recipe is what I do for my fire giants (with a final light touch of white) so unless you want a fiery look I would muddle out that last layer a little more than suggested there.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2015 15:48
|
|
|
Cross posting from the oath thread. Really happy with how the type V comes out but some of the color transitions are washed out by camera it seems.nesbit37 posted:December oath complete! Claiming the technical jurnal challenge since almost everything here was done with a red pallet and theme for the month. I know its early but I am only going to be around another weekish until its off to Wisconsin for the holidays and the rest of December.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2015 02:17
|
|
|
Has anyone here used the below linked Fallout Hobbies airbrush stencils for smaller scale games like Dropzone Commander? Tempted to pick up a couple but I am worried that most of the patterns would be too large for 10mm scale vehicles. http://www.fallouthobbies.com/stencils nesbit37 fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Dec 7, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2015 20:27
|
|
|
Looking for some color scheme advice. Below are test models I am doing for a dropzone commander PHR force. I like it generally, something seems off. Recomendations for color changes or accent colors for parts? All these models have done to them so far is preshading, yellow base and the brown after all done, sloppily, with airbrush.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 1, 2016 19:52
|
|
|
Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I believe part of your problem is you preshaded in black then applied yellow. So, now your yellow is green or has a green undertone to it, which combined with brown looks kinda like bile. Preshade with brown if you want. Thanks. Is it going to matter how dark the brown is? Should I even bother to pre-shade? Most of, but not all, of the other vehicles I am painting are smaller than these three drop ships so it might be wasted effort. Thanks on the other color suggestions as well. I figured the creams would be good but didn't think about blues.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2016 17:52
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:What can I use to glue acrylic without frosting it? I can't find acrylic cement anywhere and I'd prefer not to use white glue. If its acrylic to acrylic you are going to want to weld it. I built a large acrylic terrariums with two different chemicals to weld the acrylic. The one I used most and is more fluid was called weldon-4. There is another I used that was a lot more viscous. I think I have more info on it on one of the blog posts I put up when I made the tanks: http://animaltree.org/article/sun-01082012-0000/continuing-work-acrylic-gecko-condo edit: A little more info on the chemicals: Moderately Fast-Setting Solvent Cement for Bonding Acrylic. WELD-ON 4 is a water-thin, somewhat flammable cement formulated to quickly develop very clear and high strength bonds for many thermoplastic substrates. The bond is achieved by first softening the surfaces to be joined and then fusing them together with the dissipation of the solvent. The initial bond forms within a matter of minutes and is followed by a significant and continual increase in bond strength over the next several hours. WELD-ON 4 may be preferred by some plastic fabricators because it is less likely to leave white marks (commonly called blushing). For similar applications but faster setting cement, WELD-ON 3 is recommended. Weld-On 4 Acrylic Adhesive water thin, somewhat flammable, moderately fast-setting, blush-resistant solvent cement for bonding acrylic. It will also bond with other thermoplastics such as polystyrene, CAB (cellulose acetate butyrate), and polycarbonate to themselves. Does not bond to cross-linked acrylics. SUBSTRATE RECOMMENDATIONS : WELD-ON 4 is formulated as a blush-resistant cement for bonding acrylic (poly-methyl methacrylate) to itself. It will also form strong bonds with other thermoplastics such as polystyrene, CAB (cellulose acetate butyrate), and polycarbonate to themselves. It is not recommended for cross-linked acrylic. SUGGESTED BONDING APPLICATIONS: WELD-ON 4 is used extensively in sign fabrication for cementing acrylic letters to fat acrylic presentation panels and trim-capping of cut out acrylic letters. Strong butt joints are made with fat sheets by using the soak method. WELD-ON 4 is also widely used in many applications e.g. fabrication of display and presentation cases, medical equipment assembly, the bonding of plastic containers and pre-forms, and in the manufacture of numerous solvent welded structures and subassemblies using the capillary method. nesbit37 fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Jan 7, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2016 16:12
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:This sounds good but extreme for what I'm doing. You said you didn't want it to fog, and that stuff will do that. If you just want it to bond then you have PVA and superglue on hand already I am sure. http://www.amazon.com/Weld--Acrylic-Adhesive-Applicator-Bottle/dp/B0096TWKCW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452181501&sr=8-3&keywords=weldon-4
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2016 16:45
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:This is a couple pages late (sorry, I'm just catching up) but there is an actual purpose-made cyanoacrylate remover product. Does anyone who has used this stuff know if it will get super glue out of fabric without also freeing the dye?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2016 15:23
|
|
|
For those of you that are airbrushing with Minitaire paints, what mixing ration have you found to work out ok? I've been doing 1 part water to 4 parts paint at 10-15psi in my Badger 105 with the stock needle and getting ok results, but not as good as I would like for detail work. Just wondering what kind of ratios and pressures have been good for you.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2016 16:34
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:
I have a Badger 360 with the ultra fine tip I usually do detail with, so maybe detail with the Patriot isn't right, but really just something more targeted than basecoating. I'll just keep thinking it down since spidering is giving me the most grief.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2016 20:04
|
|
|
Anyone have decent resources or products for doing 10mm urban bases? Want to do up some infantry bases for Dropzone Commander and not sure where to start for getting things like asphalt down from a material standpoint. Already picked up some n scale cars I am going to rough up as abandoned vehicles and such.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2016 04:05
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:Vallejo Dark Earth is good and what I use for slighty-coarse sand at 28mm, so it should look reasonably like asphalt at 6mm. Get a little scraper or something (even a toothpick can work) to smooth it flat and it should be good. Dexefiend posted:Vallejo Black Lava is a good miniature asphalt. However at 10mm it might be too chunky. Ok cool. I'll give those a shot. What about other details like busted up small walls, curbs, things like that? Do people just cut up left over sprues or does someone make something decent for that in a 10mm scale pack? I am totally being lazy here since I should just sculpt up something simple and quick and cast it but really not wanting to tackle that right now.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2016 16:07
|
|
|
Cross posting from the oath thread. Not sure on the yellow and brown theme I did for the PHR, thinking of doing the rest of my sizeable PHR force in the more traditional white which is depicted below in three of the neptunes. Would love to hear opinions. ~~~~~~~~ Oath Complete! I am claiming the technical challenge jurnal for the white Neptures, LordAba's retro challenge for the 1980 beholder, and the speed paint challenge for the beholder.  Hey guys!  PHR Neptunes in flight with some walkers and treded vehicles attached. (note the yellow and brown neptunes were not part of the oath, I did them as a color test for the other PHR models I painted this month and just stuck them in the picture)  PHR walkers and other ground vehicles  Queen Beruthial and some of her cat spies. N Scale cats are super super super tiny.  A hoard of Black Numenorians!  Everyone for the month together.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2016 22:31
|
|
|
Who knows what this miniature is and where I can get one if its still around? I assume its for Blood Bowl, but I can't find anything on it and since there are enough non-GW places that make Blood Bowl figures still I am wondering if it might be from one of them.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2016 20:39
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:It was made by Goblin Forge, but appears to be out of print. Thanks! Info from you both was very helpful. Apparently its full name is Micheline Tendresse and I found some in stock at Figone.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 25, 2016 00:31
|
|
|
Quoting myself from way back in this thread for the storage talk. I'm still a big fan of this method using jewelry trays and magnets for transport and storage. Very cost effective, especially for this 10mm infantry stuff. nesbit37 posted:I finished painting and basing all of the armies for the battle of five armies last week. I'll put pictures up of them all once I finish the last 9 heroes for the set. Wanted to post now because an awesome storage solution arrived for me last week and I love it so far. It's using gem trays and gem transportation cases for miniatures, taken from this blog: http://belchedfromthedepths.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-quest-for-perfect-miniatures.html
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2016 04:24
|
|
|
One of the things that has helped me stay more organized is getting one of these travel cases: http://frontierwargaming.com/?product=paint-case Now, I am not saying you need to buy one of those, though I have loved it for painting on trips and out of the house. What it did was force me to look at exactly what I needed in a general sense for usual work since only so much would fit in it. Evaluating it from that small space perspective allowed me to identify just what tools and colors I use and need the most, so I could then organize my at home workspace in the way. Granted, its still messier than I would like but at least now I don't have 9 shades of pink and heat gun within arms reach on the off chance I might need them while painting up some knights.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2016 15:01
|
|
|
If you don't want to mix it yourself Vallejo has a filler that comes in the same bottle as its paints. I forget what its called exactly, but its pretty much just for doing that. GW has pretty much the same thing they call liquid greenstuff.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2016 01:14
|
|
|
Spiderdrake posted:Are ghost tints ok for brush work or are they something to wait for an airbrush to pick up? They work fine with brushes, I used them with both airbrush and brush for my oath this month in the oath thread (that I haven't posted as complete yet).
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2016 15:55
|
|
|
Cross posting from the oath thread. The camera isn't showing off how great the brown and orange scourge units look in person nor the purple sheen stripes on the metallic scourge but what are you going to do. Oath Complete! Claiming both technical and theme challenge though obviously only one applies. The zombie covered in blood and the leaping Medusa are most of it, though technically I suppose any of the flying transports for the Scourge could count. I forgot to take a solo picture of Micheline Tendress so she is in the group shot with the Blood Bowl Amazon team I didn't oath for the month but painted anyway. She is just the giant female ogre and the little goblin running for her, so sorry for any confusion for the judges. Just the ogre and goblin in this one  Just the ogre and goblin in this one  Some ate his Valentines hear and needs a napkin or two   For some reason the purple isn't showing but that's ok    I must admit that I am a little embarressed to have painted up the Sister Sledgehammers being cheesecake dwarves, but something about the fact they were originally made without beards spoke to me, and I just had to sculpt beards on some of them and fix the error:   Everyone done for the month in one shot  
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2016 03:21
|
|
|
Great reference pic, Avenging Dentist.JoshTheStampede posted:So I use the Vallejo Black Lava paste a lot and my jar is almost empty. Before I buy a new one does anyone know whether the different earth pastes they make (like desert sand and red oxide and brown earth) are varying textures and degrees or grittiness or are they all the same except for color? The Vallejo site only has the same copy/pasted blurb for all of them and I can't tell from the pictures. I just started using these and I wasn't sure either, so I picked up both Black Lava and Brown Earth. There is definitely a texture difference as Brown Earth is more coarse. It isn't clear based on their naming scheme though, especially since the colors differ. I, also, just assumed they were the same thing with a different pigment but they are not.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2016 21:00
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:Wait, brown is more coarse than black lava? The picture AD posted seems to show the opposite. Maybe I had that backwards, will have to double check.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2016 00:23
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 04:18 |
|
|
Anyone with a patriot 105 mind detailing their cleaning routine? Mine keeps clogging up on me while priming with stynylrz no matter what my pressure seems to be or my between color cleaning ritual is.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2016 03:52
|
|