|
As long as the base green is darker than the brown/green mixture you're highlighting with it should look fine. You might want to try something like a deep forest green base blended into khaki / light green mix and then highlight with tan or even ivory.
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2015 14:16
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 23:10 |
|
|
No household chemical any sane person would shoot through an airbrush will irreversibly destroy metal.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2015 02:34
|
|
|
I just paint one of those green army men tanks (from Goodwill or yard sales) whenever I want to try out something new or weird.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2015 19:08
|
|
|
Well here's a product recommendation: I've been seeing this at art stores forever, and finally picked some up at Target. It's really nice for flocking bases. It's grippy as hell, water-soluble, and the best part is I can't gently caress up the dispenser like I have for every bottle of wood glue I've ever bought.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2015 22:38
|
|
|
I applied it with a damp brush, so I did thin it but not nearly as much as when I used Tacky Glue or fabric glue.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2015 23:37
|
|
|
That was actually the first thing that grabbed my attention, too. I started wondering about the force required to hack a guardsman in half, and it seems like he should be splattered all over the base instead of taking a nap in his guts. But gore physics aside, it definitely distracts from the cool giant robit. e: Or cut up like fifteen guardsmen and have him wading through bodies 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2015 03:25
|
|
|
   Finished some Mantic zombies for KoW! I'm 100% happy with how they came out, but I feel like I've sort of plateaued lately. I feel like I'm missing the One Weird Trick that might make them pop a little more. Does anybody have suggestions for what to learn next? Or something I should be doing differently?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2015 00:31
|
|
|
He's talking about the bases - they literally are stained plywood! I like the effect, it feels like my plastic toys are actually classy wooden game pieces. I haven't figured out how to replicate it on the plastic bases I'm stuck with for some figures - So that's actually one thing I can work on. My OSL is currently wet garbage, so that is an excellent thing to strengthen! I don't know about these figures, since only about half the faces have eyes, but I'll try it out on some ghouls next. Or some Warmachine, it's like they sculpt that with OSL in mind.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2015 01:30
|
|
|
Skarsnik posted:First go at NMM too Holy drat, the hilt's shadow sells that NMM hard. And I love the green and purple inks (?) you're got going on in there, he's still grey but interesting.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2015 15:16
|
|
|
It looks like a German machine pistol, so he's probably in the middle of disarming some chump.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2015 22:26
|
|
|
enri posted:I dragged the wife there during our mini honeymoon in 2011 This means a small honeymoon, not a miniatures-themed one... right? 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2015 20:47
|
|
|
I get those white synthetic brushes you buy cheap in a bag at Wal-Mart. They work nicely, last pretty long, and are cheap enough that I actually retire them when they need it. It's also helpful that they're white, since you can see when there's still paint in them.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2015 02:47
|
|
|
I'd recommend priming Army Painter red or Rustoleum ruddy brown. I've also had some luck lately highlighting pink and then glazing red over it. I'll also use a lot of black ink Future washing to get the most out of sculpted details. Painting in damage / wear also helps to break up monotonous colors. Pure red is tricky, since you don't have much of space to highlight or shade in. If you're ok with orange highlights, that opens a lot of working room.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2015 22:46
|
|
|
SRM posted:I'm just choosing the black and white points in Photoshop and using a point and shoot Sony camera. I'll look into it next time I take photos of some of my models since I'm kinda tired of my pictures looking like that too. If you're using Photoshop, keep doing that but also use the Remove Color Cast tool.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2015 20:19
|
|
|
I've got this weird compromise thing where I add increasing amounts of white to metallic paint and do a pseudo-NMM. MNMM I guess? It works for me, anyway. Plus I get fantastic gold coverage by mixing ochre with metallic gold for the base coat.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2015 16:54
|
|
|
Keeping brush rinse water in an old beer bottle finally ended in not-hilarity. Yuk.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2015 04:39
|
|
|
I firmly stand by Duplicolor sandable primer, it's something like six dollars a can and comes from the auto parts store. It goes on super smooth, and comes in at least white, black, grey, and red. (The grey is an excellent German panzer grey.) What you DON'T want is the self-etching or filler primers. Filler is what SG warned will destroy detail, and self-etching is for car use.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2015 14:06
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:Cross posting from the Oath thread. If anyone has tips to do faces better on 10mm I am all ears. Definitely listen to what's been said about washes. I like Army Painter Soft Tone for almost everything. Something else you might want to try is facial hair. Mix a dark grey with your fleshtone, and then go to town with moustaches, beards, sideburns, etc. It might take a few goes before they click, but it's absolutely worth practicing. Another thing to try out is varying your skin colors. Even in armies that weren't historically diverse, there's still room for subtle variation.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2015 03:52
|
|
|
Late to last page's pigment separation chat, but you can get some easy organic weathering effects by watering down cheap craft store brown paint and slopping it over stone or concrete surfaces. I'll post photos of some when I get home, it's a pretty cheap and easy thing to do.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2015 16:10
|
|
|
Do any of you know where I can buy Marx's Cars of the Future? They look perfect for a project I want to work on.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2015 18:09
|
|
|
I've had luck using cheap grey plumbers' epoxy with my Basius pad. Just keep the surface wet with tapwater, and press firmly to squish the water out from where you're pushing. It does leave a discoloration on the pad, but you can generally get that out with an old toothbrush and dish soap.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2015 11:19
|
|
|
I'd recommend rigging some cardboard to deflect the AC and maybe running a humidifier (when you're not using the AC). And try keeping the dog out of your painting area, but they can be insistent.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2015 18:17
|
|
|
Does anybody have experience stripping Mage Knight or Hero Clix figures? What's safe and effective to use on that weird plastic?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2015 18:19
|
|
|
That didn't even occur to me, but I'll probably give it a try. I tried washing one in acetone and was surprised that it didn't ruin it. It feels a little gummy, but didn't seem to lose any detail. Weird!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2015 20:24
|
|
|
Wait until you get a load of Darby O'Gill and the Little People...
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2016 19:28
|
|
|
Brown or Sepia washes really take the edge off of yellow, and also make it a lot easier to highlight. You can also mitigate it on Space Marines by using a lot of browns for the accessories (holsters, pouches, tubes, etc) which will help to bring the everall tone down a bit.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2016 02:03
|
|
|
Does anyone have a link to that guide to making toxic sludge bases with fabric puffy paint? I thought I had it bookmarked, but I guess not. e: vvv that looks pretty cool, I'll probably just do something like that if I can't find the thing I was thinking of. moths fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Mar 10, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2016 00:27
|
|
|
I'd try cut up plastic q-tip sticks or coffee stirrers (if you can find small enough ones.)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2016 16:19
|
|
|
Actually I think the painted ones might be ok. I have a painted Bones skeleton in my car; He's been all sorts is bendy but the paint hasn't flaked or cracked yet.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2016 02:44
|
|
|
I'm on the same rain train in PA with a stack of oath models I can't prime. Army Painter washes are very good, as has been pointed out before. I also like to mix watered down black paint and Future, which gives great, tight black lining but requires a brushed-on matte finish. (Otherwise you get super-glossy recesses where it should be darkest.)
|
|
#
¿
May 6, 2016 13:57
|
|
|
Are you guys shaking your Strong Tone? I don't think I've ever had this described problem. As for fuzzy primer, I've only gotten burned once. It was on a pretty big conversion project, and I wasn't able to strip and re-prime because of the materials I'd used. So maybe I'm a bit over-cautious... I'll pick up a bottle of that air/brush-on one for rainy days.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2016 21:08
|
|
|
Galaga Galaxian posted:I not sure I want to shade and highlight each flute though. I'd base coat it your darkest color, drybrush a mid tone, then clean that up with painted highlights. For a texture like that you don't want to paint highlights with the point of your bristles, you want to use its middle. Easiest thing would be to take a large fat brush, get most of the paint off it, and run it sidelong down each flute with your lightest highlight color. Basically hold the brush in a perpendicular T to the flute and let the detail's shape do the work. You might also want to consider adding moss or some green wash stains around the base and tan wash stains around the top. It's a little detail, but it'll break up the "huge block of single color" problem. (I do that for walls and fences, it should look even better on a column.) moths fucked around with this message at 14:13 on May 15, 2016 |
|
#
¿
May 15, 2016 14:10
|
|
|
That's definitely an improvement! I think you might have too much direct light, though; I notice there's a pure white reflection lines along the tail. Your light might need to be diffused through a screen or bounced off a white surface. (I'm also stealing that color scheme for every sea-creature and dinosaur I paint in the near future.)
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2016 14:18
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:The colours are, from lowest application to final layers: Vallejo model colours turqouise, light turqouise, blue green, emerald, then vallejo game colour livery green. The tail is citadel screamer pink and naggaroth night. Oh, sounds like some reflecting is unavoidable then. Thanks for the color list, that's going to be a huge help! And can I ask what you used for the eyes?
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2016 14:53
|
|
|
Holy hell, that makes me want to dip my scourge and start all over again.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2016 00:04
|
|
|
That reminds me, is there any viable way to scan a model then 3D print it in a different scale yet? It seems like a no-brainer, but I can't seem to find any consumer-facing 3D scanning services.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2016 22:44
|
|
|
I recommend pinning whenever there's doubt. It'll come down to your water effect, though. Some will essentially add a 1mm glue layer, others will just add layers of gloss.
|
|
#
¿
May 27, 2016 14:51
|
|
|
Lethemonster, thanks again for the color list you used on your screamers! I applied them to a Hydra for this month's Oath thread and I'm super happy with how it's coming along. (I'll cross-post when he's done.) It's also going to see use on Cold Ones and Corsair cloaks, which contrasts and complements my my usually drab and natural-ish color schemes.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2016 21:56
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:Also, don't waste your time highlighting - just paint your basecoat. It will look like crap, but the AP will settle into the recesses and create shadow and "highlights" for you. You can also sparingly reapply the base color as a "highlight" after washing, and it'll look pretty sharp. I know a guy who does only this (base, wash, touch-up) and his stuff looks great relative to the amount of work he puts in.
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2016 15:03
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 23:10 |
|
|
I wanted to cross-post that hydra from the Oath Thread:  That stupid pose looks way more menacing when he's rotated about 30 degrees!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 1, 2016 04:25
|
|