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jodai posted:How has the Relic Knights stuff been going? I chose the actual knight faction, Shattered Swords, so most of my guys are in armor and helmets but I've heard the detail on the faces is really shallow. RK is hit or miss. The stuff that was already a sculpt before the game/KS is pretty terrible, out of scale, no detail, etc. Newer stuff is very nice though. Facial detail is very smooth and shallow but with the anime style that looks more intentional than the older stuff being a sculpting limitation.
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Apr 22, 2015 13:28
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Post 9-11 User posted:She's got Combat Highheels and Armortits but I can't even complain, that's a pretty badass model. Thanks! This was my first real attempt at NMM (as opposed to oh gently caress there's only one buckle and I'm not getting out the metallics NMM) and I'm reasonably happy with it. The color scheme is mostly the studio scheme but a little greener and lighter and translated to Minitaire.
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Apr 22, 2015 13:43
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P3 Coal Black, Reaper Blue Liner and Brown Liner, Reaper Walnut Brown and Linen White would be on my list for sure. Probably VMC Black Grey and Black Red too.
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Apr 25, 2015 17:12
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Big McHuge posted:I just got back into painting after a 15 year absence, so forgive my ignorant questions. Interesting. The website for them says they are acrylic but gives instructions (apply heavily, wait 15 mins, remove from high surfaces with water or thinner) sounds more like an oil wash. I don't think I have ever used an acrylic that wasn't bone dry in 15 mins unless I drowned it in retarder.
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May 1, 2015 18:32
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They literally just made a brush for each category of paint they make, even if they don't need one. There's no loving reason to have a separate brush for glazes. I'm pretty sure the Small Base, Medium Layer, and Medium Glaze are all the same brush.
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May 3, 2015 03:27
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LordAba posted:Is this an actual thing, or am I just dense? It's not a real thing but it's about the level of BS that GW likes to claim about their hobby tools to justify them being more expensive than everyone elses. At least this generation of brushes has been decent. Still too expensive but good quality. The old ones were garbage and still cost as much as good ones.
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May 3, 2015 03:46
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krushgroove posted:OK, cool, I'll experiment a bit (and find some thicker CA glue) - mainly I want to avoid 'floaty' feet as well as 'sunken' feet, don't know why I didn't think of pressing the feet into the basing material. Floaty feet and glue mishaps over painted models, including glue clouding, are exactly why I don't paint bases separately. Especially since a lot of models I end up doing some greenstuff work around the feet or have to do some creative gluing to get them on a base in the first place. I like being able to cover up all that messy work with greenstuff/primer/paint work. I'd be singing a different tune for large dioramas or what have you but normal one-man-one-base stuff I just do all assembly and basing other than like, static grass or water effects before priming.
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May 3, 2015 19:14
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krushgroove posted:I hear ya, and for paved or truly flat bases (like the space ship decking bases I certainly will, eventually, finish and make molds from) I would definitely paint separately then glue afterwards. But usually I glue the bases on the feet, paint the model then base with sand and paint, which results in sunken foot syndrome. I use Vallejo Black Lava paste instead of glue/sand when I'm not using resin bases. The grains are a bit finer and the paste shrinks when it dries, so the sunken foot syndrome isn't as pronounced, I don't notice it on most minis.
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May 3, 2015 19:51
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berzerkmonkey posted:No - avoid primer. You're going to get a grainy texture that will look like crap at this scale. Just get some flat white/black/gray and you should be all set. I'm sure some UK Goons can recommend a good brand for you - in the US, I'd recommend Krylon Flat. If the models are plastic, this is fine advice - spray paint will stick just fine. If they are metal or resin, I would really recommend a primer - In addition to having tooth it also bonds with the surface to some degree, and regular paint sometimes will have a hard time sticking to metal or resin - if regular paint stuck fine you wouldn't need a primer coat to begin with.
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May 5, 2015 00:30
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VMA Gun is great but it's a lot darker and bluer than Boltgun was. VMC Gunmetal is the best replacement I've found, though I hear the Scale75 metallics are great.
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May 6, 2015 15:39
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Slimnoid posted:For certain kinds of NMM it can look bad at any angle that isn't the one the artist painted it at (and you used to see a lot of those ~10 years ago or so), but I think the fact that it is intentionally 'manga'-esque in monochrome color and detail is what makes that robot kit work. And even the degree to which NMM has a sweet spot is drastically overstated by people who like to say they just don't like NMM when they mean they actually don't want to learn how to do it.
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May 8, 2015 01:28
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Cyclomatic posted:On the other hand, NMM is likely popular for no other reason than people who can paint NMM likely just don't want to paint with metallic paints period. Does it look better or does it just look fine without destroying brushes and sometimes getting little flakes of the metallics showing up on the color sections of the model? You're probably right. The reason I prefer it recently is that I think metallics look bad most of the time on 28mm scale models - if I were painting a bust or a 72mm dude I would probably use metallics, but the sparkly effect is out of scale with most of what I paint and I think it looks chintzy. But making metallics look really good/realistic ("TMM" or whatever you want to call it) takes as much time and effort as NMM anyway, so I may as well not get flakes in my water and not be limited to what colors I have in metallic. I also think that even if you don't prefer NMM, learning it is useful, as it teaches you a lot of things about light and color and painting textures, which all come in handy for lots of things. People get really worked up about it but it's just another texture. There's no cloth paint so people use normal paint and try to make stuff look like cloth. NMM is the same poo poo its just that there IS metallic paint so people think it's some whole different world of painting. That said, there is no such thing as quick and easy tabletop-level NMM like there exists for metals, so metals will always have a place. You can base, wash, drybrush metals and they look perfectly good for tabletop, especially across a whole army.
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May 8, 2015 02:33
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Z the IVth posted:This comment comes from a time where everyone and their uncle did that hideous S-E (sky-earth) NMM. God that was hideous. It doesn't look BAD exactly, it just makes everything look like an 80s album cover or airbrushed on a van. And there are some pieces where it really does have a sweet spot but that is mostly larger models where the WHOLE THING is done in NMM, like that crazy Khorne dreadnought.
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May 8, 2015 16:50
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JerryLee posted:I find that this look works decently well when it's something tiny that your brain immediately recognizes is supposed to be a mirrored surface, like a visor or something, and drops off in effectiveness sharply the more the artist tries to milk it. All visors should be painted with extreme SENMM with mountains on the horizon for full "respect my authoritah" impact.
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May 8, 2015 18:35
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El Estrago Bonito posted:The general opinion in basically all pro painting circles these days is that NMM looks like poo poo. This is extremely not true. NMM done well looks good, just like TMM done well looks good. NMM done badly is poo poo, just like metallics done badly look like poo poo. This Vs mentality where one has to be the "real painters method" is bullshit and doesn't accomplish anything. Look at this and tell me NMM looks like poo poo: http://www.coolminiornot.com/350515?browseid=12046570 It's true that a lot of "pro painters", particularly Euro painters, are in the middle of something of a TMM renaissance, and that NMM's heyday as a popular flavor of the month is past for now. But they're just techniques, it's like saying wet blending is garbage from the 90s while glazing is how real men paint, that's just meaningless noise. Edit: It also matters what you are painting. I paint Relic Knights with NMM because cartoony anime fits the sculpts and the aesthetic of the game. I paint Infinity with NMM because I think metals look bad in the tiny scale of those guns. I paint Malifaux with TMM because gritty realism fits those models better, to me. Edit 2: ALso, as a counterpoint, All three of the winners at Crystal Brush (all "real pro painters" with DVDs and everything) heavily featured NMM. It's not a dead technique by any stretch. JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 19:07 on May 8, 2015 |
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May 8, 2015 18:55
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El Estrago Bonito posted:If by all you mean one sure. It's an exceptionally dated technique at this point. There's nothing stopping you from liking it but even when it's done extremely well like the knight you linked it still doesn't look as good as the pinnacle of real metals. No, I mean all three of the top three. Kiril Kanaev's space marine, Ben Komet's pirate diorama and Jessica Rich's dryad thing, though admittedly Rich's has significantly less than the other two. Edit: I mean there's nothing stopping you from not liking it but calling it an outdated technique or claiming "basically every pro painter" agrees its objectively inferior is just plain false.
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May 8, 2015 19:35
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El Estrago Bonito posted:All the actual metal surfaces on the marine are in real metals, and the pirate one has very limited NMM (and mixes the two in odd ways that are pretty cool IMHO). The Dryad is the only one that is done with entirely NMM. I'm not certain about the space marine but I was talking about the actual armor, which looks like metallic blue but I'm like 95% sure is NMM because Kanaev is a texture-painting jedi master. There's a ton of NMM on the pirate one, and the stuff on the sign even has the horizon line people complain about. The sword hilt, the belt buckle, etc. In any case, art doesn't work the way you are describing. There's not really obsolete techniques, at least not within the past few decades. Better painting has become more widespread and infiltrated the gaming world, and the tools available are better and more widely available. But two-brush-blending is just a name Privateer Press put on a technique people have been using forever, so they could refer to it and build a recognizable style for their company like Rackham and GW did. When Meg Maples went to work for PP, they told her she had to learn to 2BB their way, not because it was better, but because they wanted all the stuff coming out of the studio to be the same style. It's not special or better than doing the same thing with one brush and cleaning it in between. Even within "wet blending" you'll find dozens of slightly different ways to do it. Stuff isn't as codified as you are making it out to be. Same with glazing or "feathering" or layering (or "multilayering" which is what people call layering when they want to make it clear they aren't doing it badly I guess?).
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May 8, 2015 19:53
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Has anyone used basing crap like flock/static grass/clumps on resin bases? I have my Relic Knights Noh on Secret Weapon lava flow bases but have changed my mind. Lava is overdone and I don't want to commit to that much OSL. And lava without OSL is kinda halfassed. But they are pinned and green stuffed so gently caress rebasing them, I'm just going to do the bases up as stream/river style. I figure I should add some foliage but is that gonna work fine on primed resin? I assume it will but I am in overthinking it mode.
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May 9, 2015 23:52
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Tenasscity posted:Do you guys have a storage solution for Dropper bottles? I have like 50 of them I've mixed paint and washes into, and I was wondering if any of you have found a good storage system that goes beyond a plastic bin with a lid. I mounted pegboard on my wall and got some nail polish racks from Amazon and mounted those on the pegboard. Works great.
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May 10, 2015 21:34
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Hollismason posted:Paint Confession : If I'm using acrylics I will stick the brush in my mouth and suck on it to straighten it out after I've cleaned them and to get residual paint out of it. It really does keep them straightened out. I do this all the time and anyone who tells you you're going to die from it is being paranoid. It's fine. I've been watching the PaintingBuddha videos and Ben Komets constantly licks brushes with paint on them. It's a bad habit I have slowly started to pick up.
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May 16, 2015 05:47
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berzerkmonkey posted:I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach? 90% of the book is step by steps. There's like 2 pages of techniques. That Joan is the new limited edition sculpt that came with the preorder for the book, and also is one of the step by steps in the book.
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May 27, 2015 05:36
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SteelMentor posted:Just finished my first attempt at airbrushing and... wow. I've only basecoated some Shaltari stuff with it and that was so much better than doing it by hand, methinks it'll be getting a lot of use in the not-too-distant future. Even if all I ever did with it was prime, base coat, and varnish, the airbrush would be 100% worth the investment.
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Dec 30, 2015 04:49
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enri posted:Can anyone recommend a close match for the old citadel foundation adeptus battlegrey? My pot is finally running low and it's a colour I use on literally everything, closest I can see is P3 greatcoat grey but I'm pretty sure it's got a bit of a blue tinge to it. Greatcoat does have a very slight blueish tinge, but Ironhull Grey seems closer to Adeptus.
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Dec 30, 2015 22:50
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Star Man posted:Getting bored of painting space marines and want to paint some space bugs that I have for a bit. What do you all think of this color scheme? I like the orange one, but would dull down that orange some more. You don't want it to stand out TOO much from the rest of the model.
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Jan 1, 2016 23:40
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Since the dwarf bust I painted/posted back in March didn't even make the cut at Adepticon, I have been in a painting rut. Haven't finished a model, though I did learn some NMM tricks and putz around. Then by the time my demoralization passed the holidays happened and I haven't actually painted in months. But I recaught the bug this week and ordered a couple busts to paint since I can't get up the motivation to build and paint all the Malifaux stuff I need to get done. Hopefully that will kickstart me again. Also, anyone who isn't already watching Painting Buddha videos should definitely, they switched from selling pricey individual videos to Patreon which turns out way cheaper and they are far and away the best videos out there.
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Jan 9, 2016 19:21
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TouchToneDialing posted:Is it a bad idea to put that Pledge stuff in an air brush? What would you use to clean the airbrush after? Pledge is as thin as water, so it's fine unthinned. Clean it with whatever you normally clean with (I use windex), just be a little more thorough.
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Jan 15, 2016 00:19
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Dullcote just hasn't been the same since they took out those sweet sweet carcinogens
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Jan 15, 2016 01:36
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VoodooXT posted:Isn't that only in the EU though? Toluene is only banned in the EU but I think Testors just changed the formula rather than have separate EU and USA formulas.
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Jan 15, 2016 02:06
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Today is a sad day. Because today was the day my pots of old GW Shadow Grey and Blood Red finally gave up the ghost for good. See you at the crossroads. 
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Jan 18, 2016 07:15
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Iron Crowned posted:I've discovered that I really just need to paint my miniatures one at a time I'm the same. Assembly line painting feels like homework or drudgery, no matter how much I like the models. I don't feel like I am painting.
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Jan 18, 2016 20:16
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Fauxtool posted:yeah they are keeping them locked in cages and harvesting off live animals. Its not nice but its no worse than the treatment of chickens in egg farms. It's also way less bad than my leather shoes or my hamburger. I'm actually surprised I have never heard of a serious painter who only uses synthetics for animal rights reasons, honestly.
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Jan 24, 2016 02:17
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Floppychop posted:Before I go experimenting and learning things the hard way... You can mix them, but the result will be "less metallic" since you're spreading the same amount of shiny bits across more paint. If that's what you want, great. The glazes and washes also work.
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Jan 26, 2016 01:55
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I bought the Gale Force Nine pinning kits, which I realize means I paid the hobby premium for drill bits, but they are good and sized properly and I didn't have to wonder what size to get at the hardware store or whatever.
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Jan 26, 2016 16:34
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You also don't need to pin everything. I know there's pin evangelists who will come in and brag about how they can pin 10 micron ankles or the spines on Infinity models or whatever, but it's not necessary if you just glue poo poo properly and reinforce joints with greenstuff afterwards.
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Jan 26, 2016 19:55
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'm one of those pinning evangelists because I've found that I'm really super good at breaking unpinned joins. Also, my Kukulkani figures have a lot of pieces that are basically designed to break off if you drop them, such as this lady's ponytail: Yeah, more power to you if you're good at it. I just meant to people who aren't that good or steady, it's not the end of the world.
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Jan 26, 2016 20:02
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The VMA goldish metallics have definite issues between batches, or at least did at one time. I have two bottles of Bright Brass that are way different and neither looks like the darker of yours.
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Jan 28, 2016 05:06
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I use windex to clean.
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Jan 28, 2016 15:52
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berzerkmonkey posted:Yeah, I was just watching a Les Bursley short, and that's what he recommends as well. Does it eat away the paint that dried in the cup during the painting session? Yeah, so long as it's not completely dried and hardened. If it is I'll use isopropyl to clean the cup out. But normally, I'll fill the cup and stir around with a brush to loosen the sides, spray through one or two reservoirs full, then do a back flush and wipe it out.
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Jan 29, 2016 02:34
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Irish Legend posted:Fair enough. I was not necessarily going for a realistic look I guess, from and aesthetic standpoint I thought it would look best with the blues undertones. I think you're right unless you plan to put snow on the ground. If so a warmer white will look good with the presumably colder white of the snow. If not and he's just on some rocks then a colder white for the bear would look fine.
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Jan 29, 2016 21:29
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FireSight posted:Alright, so I've started painting miniatures again recently, and I'm still sitting on the basics instead of doing anything fancy... The problem with painting schemes like that on minis is the same problem with painting camoflauge. The entire point of camo (in real life) is to disguise details and outlines and make you hard to clearly see, which is the exact opposite goal you have when painting minis. You can still do it, you just have to sort of think about it and make it look like camo without actually functioning as camo. I don't know how much shading and highlighting you do (you said you were a beginner), but you basically can just do what you said for the basecoat, then treat each section as you would normally, using darker and lighter pinks to shade/highlight the pink areas, and greys to highlight the black.
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Jan 29, 2016 22:48
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