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Would it be prudent to add links for companies that produce basing items, not limited to but including base inserts, flock, and small items (crates, barrels, etc) as a resource?
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Mar 11, 2015 16:25
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krushgroove posted:Sure, post 'em and I'll add 'em! Itar's Workshop: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Itars-Workshop/199845343387129 I first found out about them when I picked up a Mixed Crates and Barrels set for basing my Warmachine and Malifaux items with. Good quality and nice variety. The guy's webstore is currently closed since last November because of personal issues - his daughter had to have heart surgery, plus other stuff. He's currently fulfilling a Kickstarter he ran and it sounds like fulfillment is going slow, but it's going. Hopefully once he's out of the woods with his personal life and fulfilling the Kickstarter, he'll reopen his webstore. Pegasus Hobbies: http://www.pegasushobbies.net/catalog/ I use their Red Brick (small) for a lot of my WM/Malifaux basing, for brick city streets and walls (see their gaming accessories section at http://pegasushobbies.net/catalog/Models-Peg.-Gaming-Accessories/c107_2/index.html). They're really nice, although if the bricks take enough of a blow, part of them might shear off and you'll have to cover it up - just an FYI. Otherwise they stand up to normal touching while gaming. I also use the Army Painter Black Battleground stuff for basing my Hordes army. Dunno how people feel about them for return on cost, but I like it. If you need small volcanic-like rocks for your bases, the midnight black gravel from Topfin is nice, can be gotten at Petsmart.: http://www.petsmart.com/fish/gravel-sand/top-fin-premium-quality-aquarium-gravel-zid36-17591/cat-36-catid-300072 HUGE BAG.
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Mar 11, 2015 17:35
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Guys, I'm made of chemicals. Should I be using an airbrush? Is it ok if I'm in a hermetically sealed suit?
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Apr 3, 2015 04:24
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Magres was kind enough to send a secondhand lot of the Menoth 2p box to me, but the stuff is already coated with some sort of blue primer that he literally spent months trying to remove. It's already a pretty dark blue IRL, so I was thinking of giving it a light dusting with black primer and just starting the painting (planning a red/black/gold scheme). Ok idea? I think the dusting should bring it close enough to the black base I plan for other models in the faction without obscuring details, and sparing me the pain of stripping whatever the hell it is. 
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Jun 26, 2015 21:08
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I'm going to be painting some Cryx soon (undead faction for Warmachine), and I was thinking I would like a very stark black/grey/white scheme with certain items (eyes, runes, etc) picked out in p3 Murderous Magenta (used in other models as my go-to for necromantic energy). I've never done Zenithal priming before, but I was thinking of doing Zenithal priming for initial coating, then putting the magenta on and then using a dark wash. Would that work, perhaps?
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Jul 17, 2015 23:58
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Super Waffle posted:Am I having a stroke or are those figures neon green and pink and not black and gold? I was curious so I googled it and it seems that Montana is a paint brand with Black and Gold being particular...formulations? covering a range of colors, rather than colors themselves. I have nothing to help with the OP's quandary, just clarifying ^  ^
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Jul 19, 2015 07:36
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Pro-tip: Neighbors' compost piles are excellent sources of basing material for your Nurgle models.
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Jul 24, 2015 19:24
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Any comments on using Vallejo Still Water, particularly for lava effects? Found a guide online but was curious about others' experiences with it, and if they recommend a different water-esque medium.
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Aug 30, 2015 19:28
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Weirdo posted:Oaf Complete! I tried a tutorial for metallic painting on the bull, and while it's a little messy, I like how it turned out. Pumpkin beholder was tricky since I forgot how fussy orange paint can be, and the Necromancer half-orc is a great little mini. Also next month I've gotta get a lightbox. Uh, Weirdo. I think you mixed up your threads  I was curious about the fact that your xpost isn't in a quote box like others usually are, so I checked, and you don't seem to have posted to the Oath thread yet, possibly having confused this thread for the Oath one. If you don't see this before tomorrow, I'd avoid editing your post, and post to the Oath thread explaining the mixup!
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Nov 1, 2015 11:11
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This may sound silly, but does anyone have a line on 28mm mohawks - the hair style, not the Native Americans. Google is just pulling up the latter.
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Nov 12, 2015 23:44
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Any good recommendations for flame bits besides the Wyrd Flame Accessories pack?
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Jan 3, 2016 04:04
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jadebullet posted:snip I would suggest looking up the Cephalyx from Warmachine. They have a very big psychic domination of surgically modified slaves thing going on. I'm not sure that the leaders are dressed like what you want, but maybe you could paint the front of their masks in the porcelain style? The bodies of the Drudges (their slave troops) might also make a good base for modification. Very contorted and not quite right. There are more than just these, but here are some examples:   
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Feb 18, 2016 05:36
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Re: opalescent paint, I've had good experiences with Vallejo's Metal Medium 70.521. It works dece on its own and can be mixed with other colors.
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Mar 11, 2016 07:19
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EAThief posted:I just finished painted something for the first time in like half a decade. I've painted stuff in the past but my method was basically dip spoon in paint, slap paint on model. I've spent some time reading advice and watching tutorials and finally painted this: It's looking nice. I use the same colors for my Cygnar electric coils as well, and I find that a wash really helps to get the trenches nice and dark compared to the tubing of the coils. I use Drakenhof Nightshade for mine.
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Apr 10, 2016 06:31
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lemonadesweetheart posted:Really new to this so any advice is welcome. Working my way through Misaki's crew. Your Shang and Tokarage look pretty rad. I might have picked out the buttons/rivets (I had no clue what they were either) on Ototo's helm.
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Apr 15, 2016 03:59
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Trying to decide what kind of swamp water color to go with for my Malifaux Zoraida crew basing. I'm also gonna be using mud, so going to be staying away from brownish colors. Heavy green is right out because Bad Juju and Silurids are also heavily green. I was thinking either p3 Cygnar Blue Base or Reaper Dragon blue for the primary color, then mixing in a touch of p3 Gnarls Green or Reaper Turf Green to give it a little touch of green for that algae look while keeping the blue color. Thoughts? Got a bunch of p3 and Reaper paint here.
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Jul 6, 2016 22:47
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GoodBee posted:Are you using water effects at all or just painted water? Painted water. My local store doesn't stock water effects regularly, and I don't want to have to wait on an order, plus fiddling around with it. At some point I want to add it to my repertoire of mini modeling techniques, but now just isn't the time for me. Anyways, I was going to be using an actual mud effect on my bases, and my brother pointed out that he'd expect the water to be, well, muddy as well. I'm going with a three layer thing, with Reaper Griffon Tan being the largest area, Woodland Brown being a smaller area within, and Umber Brown being the interior. I am gonna try the other option on one of my Silurids that's standing on a rock, soo not really any mud on his base.
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Jul 7, 2016 05:33
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Any recommendations for a good snow flock that's both usually available in stores, and not crushed glass?
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Jan 7, 2017 20:50
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Thanks! I'll check them both out.
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Jan 7, 2017 21:14
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I tried it with a 40mm rounded base and it definitely wouldn't fit. It does fit 30mm well enough though, and that's the fiddly stuff that it's nice to have a handle for.
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Nov 21, 2017 04:11
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How do people smoothly and evenly apply mud or gel water effects? Do you all use a roller or...? I've gotten away with thick mud patches before, but I'm gearing up to paint a friend's model and want to get the basing done really well, so flatter mud and going to be incorporating a small stream where I need to get the water nice and level.
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Nov 25, 2017 01:38
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Booley posted:I'd probably use a putty knife if I wanted mud to be really flat, but I'm not sure how realistic that would look. I think most water effects are self leveling, so you shouldn't have any issues with that even over a rough base. Well, this is Vallejo Water Texture Acrylic. Seems to be more of a gel than anything else. As for the mud, it's going to be a winter battlefield, so I'm planning to go mud layer, smooth it out a bit to account for cold-related dessication (dehydration?), then apply watered-down whites and flocking.
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Nov 25, 2017 03:20
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Has anyone used water effects for ice, and if so, what did you do make it "icy" if anything?
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Dec 10, 2017 08:51
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Speaking as a painter for a couple years but a complete airbrush newbie, what's the one model I should look at getting?
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Jan 4, 2018 18:54
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Thanks! Just sent them an email to get the ball rolling.
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Jan 4, 2018 19:07
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grassy gnoll posted:Anybody email Badger, get the initial response, and then never get the purchase instructions? I get they're backed up from a huge spike in demand, but I'm also impatient and brain-dead. For what it's worth, I emailed them the 4th and just got a reply yesterday (the 7th). Seems like the dude is manually replying to each email.
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Jan 8, 2018 19:09
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I'm moving along on a 120MM rounded base that will feature a stream running from one side of the base to the other. I've built up the banks of each side of the stream with cork, and once I prime and get stuff painted, I'll be using water effects for basically the second time, previously having done it with a well which is relatively self-contained. Questions are: 1) What can I do to wall off the ends of the stream while the water effect settles and dries, but that will be removable afterwards without damaging anything else on the base? 2) Do I need to worry about any seepage through the cork or its layers? I'll be building up to about a centimeter below the top of the wreck marker in the stream. 3) Anything else to consider? 
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Jan 12, 2018 15:39
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Slimnoid posted:1) Clear plastic, like from blister packs, is a good way to block off places for water effects. You'll have to figure out how to attach it to the base and remove it, but I see a lot of people using 2-part epoxy as a quick waterproof way of getting the clear plastic on there. I'd advise to attach it to the rim of the base so that, upon removal, you can scrape any lingering epoxy off of it without having to redo a bunch of stuff. Base rims are much easier and more forgiving to fix. Great! Thank you. I'm going to try myself with another model first for sure, but I'll keep the clear plastic and varnishing approaches in mind.
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Jan 12, 2018 17:40
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Alokgen posted:I wrap masking tape around my bases. Because most bases are beveled or round lipped it can be difficult to wrap the masking tape and have it stay vertical and completely round. If you run into problems, you can use GreenStuff to have a flat raised area enough to wrap the tape around it. Thanks for this as well! I'm planning to do a clear liquid layer and then an ice layer (this is gonna be a winter scene). Any ideas for doing the ice layer?
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Jan 15, 2018 07:41
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Any tips on busting unusually persistent clogs in dropper bottle nozzles, or failing that, any recommendations for where to buy replacement nozzle parts? I'm using the Reaper Master Paint bottles if it helps.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:54
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I;ve been working away at it with a paperclip for a bit but it just won't seem to budge. I'll try again in a bit.
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Jan 18, 2018 21:56
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Schadenboner posted:Does anyone know off-hand how out-of-scale Privateer Press' Iron Kingdoms line would be w/r/t 40k? I know their Warmahorde stuff is pretty big. I personally haven't seen any of their IK minis in person, but I seem to remember them back from when I first started WMH in...2012? There might have been a little scale creep since then.
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Jan 24, 2018 19:28
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It's literally an RPG set in the same universe. Same scale.
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Just be careful about Wheat Miniatures. If you drop your bread on the floor you'll never find it again.
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Feb 1, 2018 04:35
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Ok, I just got the Badget Patriot from their sale. I know I still have a bunch of other stuff to get, but the airbrush section is so packed I wanted to double check in a separate post. I need the following in addition: compressor, connector, convertor, respirator. Is that all?
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Feb 17, 2018 20:54
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Shadin posted:Compressor - Yes Ok, cool. I didn't realize but I gather this little bit I got in an envelope is actually the adaptor, thought it was a part for the main airbrush. I knew about 3M respirator, was planning on going to Lowe's. Do you know if Lowe's or Home Depot sell compressors of the type recommended in the OP, or am I going to Amazon? darnon posted:You'll probably want a spray box. Masters has one that's good and the identical unit is also available through other manufacturer names. The lighted version is quite good. If I'm spraying outside, will the spray box be necessary or can I just go with cardboard box with bottom/side/back?
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Feb 17, 2018 21:25
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Shadin posted:You’ll want a hobby compressor. I’ve got this one and it’s been great thus far. Guess it's to Amazon I go after all, thanks for your help. My setup is basically a huge-rear end backyard, with a neighbor on one side who literally uses his suburban house as a vacation home and is only there like every other week. So I've got plenty of room to work with and not a lot of people to bother with the noise. Is there something else I'm overlooking, honestly curious.
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Feb 17, 2018 21:45
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Actually ended up finding an iwata at a local Michael's for 50% off  Weather tomorrow is gonna be good so I guess I'll try loading up the brush with water tomorrow and experimenting.
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Feb 18, 2018 02:23
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Speaking of airbrushes, I've been delayed in playing with mine for a bit but it's nice weather outside, so I'm going to play with using water. The main issue is: I need a text guide on putting together the entire setup so I can make sure I'm not loving up. This is because I have a severe hearing impairment and I can't follow uncaptioned videos well, like what's linked in this thread and what I'm mostly finding with Google. Does anyone have any nice links to text + pictures guides?
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Mar 1, 2018 20:45
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My airbrush isn't spraying and I see bubbles coming up in the paint cup. Any advice?
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Mar 27, 2018 21:12
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I disassembled my Badger Patriot to try and clean things up but I am having an absolute devil of a time getting the trigger mechanism to go back together properly, despite watching videos. To clarify: I want to have the pressure pad to go straight into the well I can see inside the main barrel of the airbrush, then the curved metal plate goes...with its tip against the side of the well? E: 
Pyrolocutus fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Apr 5, 2018 |
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Apr 5, 2018 05:29
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