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Yeah I went in big on Badger paint and regret it. Only get it if you're going to airbrush everything, and even then I'd be weary. Maybe lots of terrain?
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Dec 21, 2015 05:54
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Indolent Bastard posted:Is there anything more aggressive for stripping metal models than pure acetone? I have a few models that the last bits of paint just won't budge from. It really doesn't matter that the paints in there. Unless it's eBay special bad, I don't even bother stripping anymore.
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Jan 11, 2016 04:46
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Just load up your car with minis to strip and drive it into an active volcano. No more 10 micron thick primer hiding in a crevice!
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Jan 12, 2016 04:11
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DeadGame posted:I tried blue and I like the way it looks, but my wife thinks they look like windows and not fusion exhausts. I think it looks good. They didn't read as windows to me.
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Jan 20, 2016 06:01
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Upside down it's a stylized S. It does have the unfortunate effect of looking more like a sigrune, though.
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Feb 3, 2016 07:56
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I probably haven't varnished a mini in 6 years, and my main army is 20 year old metals.
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Feb 5, 2016 20:55
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Are you flying? Make sure it will fit in your checked bag. I bought a magnetic bulletin board that's and painted/sanded it and it does me pretty well.
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Feb 12, 2016 05:55
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Star Man posted:This is the unspiration thread, right?
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Feb 14, 2016 06:35
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berzerkmonkey posted:Some WIP of my Wrath of Kings models: Great job on your Reaver. I delayed painting that one for months as it was so intimidating.
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Feb 22, 2016 21:05
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I bought this model from Atlantis Game's consignment section at the 2015 Nova. It was badly damaged, poorly assembled with a bunch of missing arms and weapons. I got it because it was cheap and I might be able to use it for a conversion. I don't know why, but this month I just had to paint this model for a dead game I never played.    Not sure why Mary's face looks all hosed up. I also painted some of my Wrath of Kings Hadross models this month:  
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Feb 26, 2016 08:15
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I've found that as long as you leave the can inside, you're fine for priming outside. If you let the can get too hot/cold that's when problems happen. I do live in Florida, though, so I've never had the opportunity to prime when it's below 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Mar 10, 2016 00:38
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Vermintide posted:Most of these paint jobs are several years old at this point, but I repainted all the orange bits last night so they'd match my army color scheme. I love orange on Skaven. What are you using them for?
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Mar 11, 2016 20:44
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Did you wash it with hot water? That will melt the glue.
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Mar 27, 2016 05:27
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Vermintide posted:So since my Skaven weapon teams are on 50mm x 50mm bases in Kings of War, I tried to come up with a clever way to switch between KoW and 8th/9th/etc without having to do a bunch of re-basing. Came up with this idea, made and cast some 50mm size bases that I can slide and lock the standard warhammer cavalry sized bases into, then pull 'em apart if I want them back to the normal size. They're a little rough but work pretty well, I think, and they stay nice and secure. WhiteOutMouse did the same thing for his Flesh Hounds in 40k. They went from cav bases to 50mm rounds. Works great.
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Mar 28, 2016 05:33
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The Wrath of Kings weapons, the ones that come on sprues, are actually ABS, not restic or HIPS. It's not as detailed a process, so that's why it's usually only for swords and other long straight weapons. IIRC, the Deepmen don't have any ABS, but the Kaxes and Carcharodon weapons are.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:37
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Big Willy Style posted:Painted this It says you took down all the images.
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Apr 25, 2016 14:59
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That comes from improperly set primer. Either the can wasn't mixed well, or weather conditions caused it to set frothed up. It isn't holes eaten into the plastic, but bubbles in the primer layer itself. Usually it's rock hard too, and you can't strip it easily.
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May 3, 2016 14:58
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Too much glare, try diffusing the light a bit more.
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May 17, 2016 15:17
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Eyes come with time. It will take a while. The best way I've done is to paint the entire eye black, then paint on two white lines in both sides. It helps prevent the tunnel vision effect. I just painted up some more Empire of Dust for Kings of War. Not as quickly as I hoped, but progress is progress: Flying Pharoah:   Regiments of Scavengers:    Horde of Chariots:    
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May 21, 2016 06:42
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Pull the gunk out the big end with it?
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May 25, 2016 21:49
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I'm not familiar with that airbrush but the nozzle typically isn't supposed to come apart. You probably should order a new one.
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May 26, 2016 04:09
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I think the best way to avoid them looking like aquarium plants is to give them a subtle coat of paint. Even a couple washes on the center of the leaves/stem and light drybrush should be enough. For inspiration, find a Buffalo Chicken post and click the question mark.
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May 29, 2016 08:43
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A helping hand?
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Jun 1, 2016 09:42
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How bad is the paint? Stripping is generally overrated.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:56
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KPC_Mammon posted:As someone who just picked up some second hand minis that were "primed" black over a previous paint job thick enough to lose considerable detail, Generally. Most competent paint jobs can be painted over without issue. Something like that obviously yeah they need to be stripped.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:16
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Cat Face Joe posted:Yeah, I've got another synthetic that got the tip curl after maybe an hour. Getting good brushes is not about being an amazing painter but making my hack jobs be less of a frustrating experience. Are you washing your brushes with hot water? That'll melt the glue that holds the bristles in place and ruin a brush after one use.
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Jun 24, 2016 22:48
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I use Duplicolor Sandable Primer, so I'd guess that would work the same way. They should never feel gritty.
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Jul 12, 2016 18:48
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You'll probably be fine if they're transported safely and you used a good primer as a base. Plastics are hardy.
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Sep 11, 2016 05:00
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Stencils would be difficult to use well unless you can print on a sticky vinyl of some sort with a laser. The roundedness of the shoulder pad means standard stencils don't work well.
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Sep 12, 2016 06:22
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Does the scout sprue come with a shotgun without a hand on the pistol grip, or did you convert the one grenadey is holding? You also made the plastic jungle terrain look good.
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Sep 16, 2016 04:16
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ineptmule posted:I'm painting my Deathwatch mans following the guide on Warhammer TV and he suggests painting over the black primer with another black so that you can use the non-spray black to clean up mistakes without a different finish on the layer. I didn't do this and now I'm not liking my small patches of shinier black where I've had to tidy up. It will help. If that doesn't work you can try doing a thined Null Oil filter over eveything, which will give it all a satiny finish.
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Oct 18, 2016 00:20
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To sculpt a tail, I would first put in a pin where I want the tail to go, shaped to be a a little smaller than the eventual tail you'd want. Then, I'd sculpt a very rough core of the tail. There's no detail here, just the bulk volume you want for the tail. Let this harden. Then, cover this with greenstuff again and sculpt the fur onto the core. Without a solid core, you'd start deforming the shape of the tail as you're adding detail.
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Dec 12, 2016 16:43
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That's super fine grain sand, or maybe even sawdust, mixed into paint. It's a pretty rare way to base your models.
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Jan 7, 2017 09:17
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Ayn Marx posted:My first Grey Hunter. There's a lot of areas I could neaten up but I need a break from this guy, I already spent hours on him. He looks great. The bones are especially good, and that's something I struggle with even after nearly a decade in the hobby.
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Jan 28, 2017 05:16
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I got the same hose, and was surprised as well. but luckily I needed a second water trap. The worst thing about doing power weapons. Anyone have any cool other ideas for power weapons? It looks good on the claws but I think it's getting a little outdated for the swords anyway. It takes forever too.
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Feb 5, 2017 08:11
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berzerkmonkey posted:What is the red you're using there? All with airbrush: Basecoat VMC Hull Red GW Mephiston Red (cover almost everything but deepest recesses) GW Evil Suns Scarlet (Zenithal, about 45 degrees) GW Wild Rider Red (barely anything) Pin wash Nuln Oil Edge highlight Wild Rider Red I think that the terminator might not have gotten the zenithal wild rider red, he's a tad darker. I haven't washed the mk3 dude yet though, so that might darken it up. Neurolimal posted:How about an iron sword with neon green blood? Would compliment both the dusty orange and ice blue claws well IMO. What do you mean by neon green blood? Sounds interesting.
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Feb 6, 2017 23:33
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I often use a base of Vallejo Game Color Escorpena Green with a highlight of Fluo Yellow and a really thin glaze of Waywatcher Green. (Be careful of the Fluo Yellow, though; I've had multiple bottles that just don't have good coverage, get clumpy in the bottle, etc. I think there's an equivalent to it in the Vallejo Game Air line, but I don't have access to the latest paint comparisons charts....) Do you have any pictures? Khorne Red is fairly close to Mechrite Red.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:29
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You actually will help prevent the paint from drying out by storing them upside down, the liquid creates a vapor barrier and air can't seep in. It's really important to store the Vallejo alcohol metals like this.
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Feb 14, 2017 18:01
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The bigger package makes more sense than anything.
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Feb 28, 2017 17:35
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:55 |
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What do people put on top of Martian Ironcrust/Ironearth?
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Mar 14, 2017 21:50
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