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CA the community is great. CA the site, however, is unfortunately a usability nightmare. It constantly gets weirded up, taken down, re-designed and broken. It's tragic how completely hosed it's become, because there really is a ton of valuable advice there.
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Jun 5, 2015 15:04
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This is great; you are great.
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Sep 3, 2015 13:35
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Delta Echo posted:I vote yes and I'm incredibly curious to see it now.
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Sep 11, 2015 14:32
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Frown Town posted:
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Nov 1, 2015 20:33
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That's an amazing mecha-walrus! But I think the other characters get lost a bit within the silhouette of your two tallest figures. You might want to put a heavier outline on the foreground figures. Also I can't tell where the walrus' back leg is supposed to be.
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Jun 11, 2016 17:11
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Squiggly? How squiggly? Can you post a screenshot? Sometimes it's because of software issues, sometimes it's due to magnetic interference with the tablet, sometimes it's just lack of confidence.
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Jun 13, 2016 15:08
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It's worth the money. It can do a ton of stuff. Just buy it.
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Jul 8, 2016 20:04
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nickmeister posted:I work in Photoshop. I've been trying to paint my images in grayscale, and then use layer modes to colorize them. But the colors always come out vastly different. Sometimes it seems impossible to use a dark color: it just becomes lighter. I've watched a few tutorials on this technique, but non of them seem to discuss this phenomenon or have those problems present in the sample files they provide. Does anyone use this technique and can share some light?  #1 is in Normal blending mode. #2 is Color mode. As you can see it is totally bonkers. Don't use it. #3 is Overlay mode. The contents of an Overlay layer can either darken or lighten the underlying stack. Anything on the Overlay layer that is darker than 50% gray will darken, lighter than 50% will lighten. As you can see in example #3, most of the colors in the color bar are 50% lightness or lighter, so most of them lighten the underlying shade. #4 is Multiply mode. Multiply only darkens what is underneath. For applying color to grayscale you'll probably want a combination of Normal layers at reduced opacity, Overlay layers for middle values, and Multiply layers for shadows.
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Jul 12, 2016 21:04
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deoju posted:This is kinda a a weird question, but this seems like the place to ask it... Mischief would be good for this!
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Jul 18, 2016 20:41
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Sep 5, 2016 02:27
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InevitableCheese posted:God this thread blows. 
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Oct 3, 2016 02:21
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Oct 6, 2016 21:31
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgKPNzJWNHk This thread
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Oct 6, 2016 23:12
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InevitableCheese posted:I have realized that my whole problem is my brush settings. The Draw a Box curriculum is derived from the technique taught by Peter Han at the CG Master Academy. (http://2d.cgmasteracademy.com/peter-han-bio.html) Most of the exercises are the same. There are some good skills to be learned there but I don't think it gives you that much for character design or people/animal drawing. The type of exaggerated vanishing points of the box exercises I think are confusing in relation to the practical demands of most illustration/comics/animation techniques. Your digital stuff is OK but it is limited by the underlying draftsmanship. Making effective "flat" design should start with conceiving of the form in 3D, and abstracting it after the fact. Otherwise you can't turn the character or pose it without the features drifting all over the place or looking like stickers. I think you will get more out of doing the John K $100,000 animation course. That is more relevant to what you like doing, and the skills you learn from drawing character turnarounds will transfer to LOTS of other applications. Box forms are useful, to be sure, but unless you're drawing spaceships flying into a hangar, you almost never see the extreme perspective that most tutorials start you on.
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Oct 7, 2016 02:55
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TeaMaestro posted:I was looking up human skulls and other head tutorials to improve my art, when I've stumbled across this interesting piece:
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Oct 13, 2016 13:28
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Nov 4, 2016 01:09
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