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TapTheForwardAssist
Apr 9, 2007

Pretty Little Lyres
I went to two cities in Croatia, but silly me didn't go to the ones that are actually famous for being fun. Zagreb was overall okay but kinda quiet and button-down. Some neat old buildings, and a cool streetcar system, but just not really exciting, and their museums were rather dowdy and "we haven't updated since 1970"ish. Then I went to Rijeka on the coast, but since it wasn't summer season yet it was awfully quiet there, but in summer it's packed with people on long family vacations, so I don't know if even then it's a fun place to just drift into. My understanding is that a lot of the actually fun/cool cities are down south, but I was going from Zagreb to Venice so missed all those.

Not too distract too much if your plan is already set, but I had a really fun time in Slovenia. Gorgeous country, and the capital of Ljubljana is almost painfully picturesque. Gorgeous city, at least some foodie scene (Zagreb not so much), a whole chunk of downtown is pedestrian-only, and just generally it seemed more like a city that had the luxury of focusing on quality of life and having fun. Good arts scene there, and went to see Oi Polloi play at a literally underground club in some old bomb shelter or something, opened by local punk bands. And there are several museums in Ljubljana which are full on London/DC-quality museums. Really polished, lots of audio-visual additions, etc.

TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Apr 30, 2015

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TapTheForwardAssist
Apr 9, 2007

Pretty Little Lyres

A SWEATY FATBEARD posted:

Forget about trains in Croatia. Maybe, and I emphasize maybe if you arrive to Zagreb by train from Slovenia and are a diehard railfan with a penchant for noisy, smokey old diesel locomotives from the 1970s.

Niche opinion, but I took the train from Rijeka (Croatian coast) to Ljubljana (Slovenia) and really enjoyed it in a retro way, but maybe that's just me. I did also take the train from Zagreb to Rijeka, and it was kinda long and though there were occasional beautiful views, the vast majority of the time it's just endless forests on both sides for hours.

quote:

Zagreb is decidedly underwhelming. It's reasonable to spend maybe one morning in the city and then take an evening bus to the coast - there isn't really all that much to do in Zagreb once you're here. Cheap hostels are abound, and the downtown area around the train/bus station is absolutely littered with them. The place is tourist friendly, most young people speak at least some english, so it's easy to find your way around, even if you get lost. Once again, don't expect too much or you're gonna leave kinda disappointed.

The ethnographic museum is kinda cool, though of 1970s-quality vibe. There's a huge flea market outside of town that was recommended to me, but most of it isn't so much fun quirky stuff as much as a serious swap meet of used washing machines, car parts, old clothes, etc. So more big and weird but not cute tourist fun like flea markets in other countries. There are a couple smaller flea markets downtown with more artsy-antiquey things.

The coolest single thing I did in Zagreb was went to see some shows in this multi-stage punky squat-like venue build into an old pharmaceutical factory. I'm not stumbling across the name on google, but I found it by seeing the flyers around town, and it seems to be a pretty established institution. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

TapTheForwardAssist
Apr 9, 2007

Pretty Little Lyres

A SWEATY FATBEARD posted:

quote:

The coolest single thing I did in Zagreb was went to see some shows in this multi-stage punky squat-like venue build into an old pharmaceutical factory. I'm not stumbling across the name on google, but I found it by seeing the flyers around town, and it seems to be a pretty established institution. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

It's "Medika". http://www.spottedbylocals.com/zagreb/medika/

Ah yes, that's the one! Have you been as well, or just google better than I? I'd somehow convinced myself that the name was Apteka or Farmacia or something like that, so wasn't getting the hits.

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