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Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.

DontAskKant posted:

I've heard awful stories from multiple people about Yeokgok from men and women, Suwon has its stories.

from a couple of weeks back but wait can you elaborate on Suwon? I'm staying there/ Osan for a month next year and all I'd heard about it is how boring it is.

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Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.
anyone know what the heck happened to that goon-made Korean history podcast? I've been meaning to listen to it for a while, but now that I went to check, it looks like it's vanished from the internet- the itunes page is gone, the facebook page, the website's offline too. :confused:

Koramei fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Dec 16, 2016

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.
In my experience (which is mostly better off young Seoulites), there's a lot of disregard/shame for their history and cultural stuff, which keeps a lot of people from being interested in it too deeply. You get exceptions though; I've met a bunch personally, altho since my interest is history that skews it a lot. I've also met a few people that have taken that course some people do so they can put "knows about Korean history" on their resume.

I think a lot of expats have a bit of a warped take on the nationalist stuff though. Just about everyone will react very negatively if you as a foreigner have something bad to say about Korean historical/cultural thing; it doesn't necessarily mean their actual opinion, that they'd share with other Koreans, isn't a lot more nuanced.

AHH F/UGH posted:

Most of the time I heard “King Sejong invented the best writing system on earth” (actually Korean an is extremely flawed and lovely writing system)

korean nationalism about hangeul takes it over the top for sure, but this kind of expat anti-take is just as stupid

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.

Grand Fromage posted:

I would argue the flip out reaction to "a foreigner" saying something negative about your country is very much in line with extreme nationalism and works as part of the definition. Someone who is more secure would be able to admit to fault. You see it in Americans--the nationalists do the LOVE IT OR LEAVE IT poo poo and the non-nationalists will take more of a "yeah, that does suck" angle. The need to reflexively defend everything is a sign of the deep insecurity that underlies a lot of Korean culture.

I agree you have a bit of a point, but considering Korea's history as a colonized nation I don't think it's fair to "but in America/Europe we're fine doing it this way"; the situations are radically different, and the way Korea is thought of still largely diminutively kinda reinforces the defensiveness in a way that just doesn't apply to western countries/Japan. Now the fact the wounds are so raw in Korea is definitely also partially a Korean problem, but still.

It's like this kind of thing:

AHH F/UGH posted:

then something about Korea invented X food or X drink and it wasn’t some other country (which is almost always not true).
There is obviously a lot of the eye-rolling stuff, and even more that has some grain of truth that's been blown out of proportion, but there actually is a whole bunch of genuinely very cool stuff in Korean history that just gets handwaved away because the Japanese completely hosed over Korean historiography, China has been more than happy to pile on, and until recently nobody in the west cared enough to look into it in any more detail. When you hear "historical thing x is a Korean thing" the default response is a groan; when you hear it about Japan, people are usually more than happy to believe it, despite Japan having been almost every bit as insignificant compared to China as Korea was for like 90% of their histories.

Anyway I definitely am guilty of being one of the reflexively defensive expats, but I feel like you just don't get the same kind of contempt for the host country in the other two places (although I might be wrong on that; I haven't spent much time in them). Korea history discussions especially get me though, as you are no doubt aware from my posts in the ancient history thread.

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.

uguu posted:

And is there anything there you can't find elsewhere?

Disagree with GF; Seoul and Gyeonggi around it definitely have a different vibe to the rest of Korea. 90% of the youth culture and art scene is in the city, most notable exhibitions and so on, almost all the big museums. Most things, really; there's a reason most people in Korea want to live there. It's also just markedly more modern, both in that it/the people there keep up with the trends more (socially too) and that you won't get whiffs of sewer air in the same way you do even in Busan.

Not to say it's just flat better, a lot of foreigners seem to like Busan more, and Seoul is probably substantially less chill if that's what you're after. It's more that the rest of the country still shows off hints that Korea was poor as dirt 50 years ago in a way that Seoul doesn't so much anymore.

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.
For 2. I agree it's probably too far to recommend any specific ones, but Iksandong and Hongdae will likely still be good general aeas to be if you want a taste of non-nightlife youth culture, loads and loads of little restaurants and shops. Insadong too for little shops.
You can also definitely fill 10 days in Seoul, but then I also don't much like Busan personally so

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.
Hongdae is a decent place to stay for what you want imo, and not super expensive. A variety of small restaurants and shops and cafes and stuff, and lots of non-Korean food there too. Lots of young people too so you shouldn't have much trouble as an English speaker. Escape rooms might be tough and everything in a board game cafe is gonna be in Korean, but there's a cafe for everything you can imagine in Seoul these days (knitting, pottery, painting) so I'm sure you can find some things that are doable. e: Insadong and Iksadong are also worth checking spending a day in for similar vibes; the highlight of the former is this ascending shopping complex basically entirely made up of individual artists selling their stuff, and the latter is this maze of hanok restaurants and shops.

Might be weird if you're alone, but you can definitely go to Lotte World or the like without kids; it's mostly couples there, and it's something you can probably enjoy without much Korean. The neighborhood (Jamsil / Songpa) around it is also pretty pleasant, some nice parks and good restaurants nearby (피제리아라고 is some of the best pizza I've ever had incidentally; it's the cheap chains you want to avoid but there's plenty of quality stuff out there). I'd also definitely second the suggestion of parks by the Han River; it's one of my favorite places in Seoul (near any of them, really). Go to a riverside shop and get some ramyun and chill out for a bit. Probably more fun when not alone but in general I would say Korea is better experienced with others.

For cultural stuff by Seoul I'd recommend the area around Gwanghwamun, where the biggest palaces (Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung) are. The national palace museum (attached to Gyeongbokgung) is fairly nice, and you can see more vernacular stuff on the other side of the palace at the National Folk Museum. The whole neighborhood is a bit upmarket but definitely worth a day and it's very walkable; lots of imitation-traditional restaurants and stuff nearby too with traditional Korean roofs and woodwork. The MMCA (National contemporary art museum) is also nearby and worth a look, and there are a bunch of other small galleries and stuff in the area. Have to keep in mind Seoul's palaces were systematically destroyed during the Japanese occupation though so most of what you're seeing is reconstructions; if you value authentic history and touching 1000 year old bricks then I would recommend Gyeongju instead, which is a fun enough city in its own right for rural vibes.

For actually just experiencing Korea it's ironically the sleeper suburbs (I've spent the most time in Guri) I'd recommend the most, although it might be a struggle not speaking Korean. Yeah if you're repulsed by apartment blocks it's not gonna be for you, but they are insanely convenient and comfortable. Everything is nearby (often literally inside the building; floors 1-4 might be shops and restaurants, so if you're a resident you just take the elevator down and never have to see the sun), everything is open super late, the food is both cheaper and if anything better than in the upmarket places. Go to a PCbang and order the ridiculous 1500 calorie 짜파게티 + 불닭 combo, or a noraebang and shout your heart out; sample the street food, sit out at a convenience store when you're tired. Lots of the subways actually stop after like 11-12 so you could get stranded in Seoul, but in the suburbs you can be doing this until 3 in the morning.

Koramei fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Mar 14, 2023

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.
Korean theme parks are couple-centric more than kid centric. But very much skewing towards younger; Lotte World lets you in free (or reduced? I did not actually try) if you're wearing a highschool uniform, to give you an idea.

Bars/eateries/food trucks are absolutely everywhere (and nicer than in the US). Live music you'll have to actually seek out, but it's totally findable.

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.

Grand Fromage posted:

Yeah I remember them being mostly empty but I dunno if they've added exhibits or anything.

Gyeongbokgung has the palace museum attached so you can get some more context before walking in. It also has the changing of the guard a couple of times a day which is kinda fun, and there are occasional events (last time I went there was a palace-style dining thing where you get served by people in court lady attire) but not nearly as much as there could be. The government's poured tons of money into rebuilding it -- Gwanghwamun gate just got a facelift this year -- but not really doing anything with what they've rebuilt.

Changdeokgung is imo the prettier palace though and especially if you hit it during a nice season the tour of the secret garden is very nice. It's also got some original buildings; the colonial Japanese pretty systematically leveled Gyeongbokgung, whereas parts of Changdeokgung were left intact. A royal princess actually kept living there throughout occupation so there are some Joseon buildings with early 20th century fittings, a garage electric lights etc.
I'd probably recommend it if you're going to just pick one.

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Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.

Pentecoastal Elites posted:

I mean it's essentially a film set that is open to the public sometimes

Do they actually shoot on-site at Gyeongbokgung? I thought there were a couple of "Joseon palace" specially-built sets that they use.

Maybe there are some that do but I know for the sageuks I've seen in recent years the layouts are a bit different to any of the actual palaces.

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