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kastein posted:Wow, that looks like a hell of a lot of work you have lined up, but it should be fun. Would a sand/bead blaster be better, or the same, or worse? The base auto shop has a room with that stuff in it I can rent for next to nothing.
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Apr 4, 2016 20:24
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Some eye protection is also a good idea. The horror stories I got when I thought I had fiberglass in my eye terrified me. I feel that thin metal would be as bad if not worse due to it rusting and breaking.
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Apr 4, 2016 20:30
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Yeah, safety glasses/goggles is definitely something you want to be wearing anytime an angle grinder is involved. I don't know if a blasting setup would be better, I haven't gotten to play with mine yet.
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Apr 4, 2016 20:39
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For smacking serious rust off thicker steel and castings, an air-powered needle gun is the tits. Braaaaaaarp. A knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder is very good, though it does leave a slightly polished finish and won't get into all the pits. This isn't super important, but for a really good finish to receive paint, I find wire wheel followed up by a final blasting to be well worth a try. I wouldn't go with just blasting from the get-go, because my experience is that unless you have a full-on industrial setup in terms of air supply, it takes quite a while on "proper" rust. Note that blasted bare metal is about the single most rustable thing going, so don't leave it any longer than you have to before putting something on it. Lastly, a shout to using electrolytic de-rusting on things that'll fit in a tub to do so, especially things which are an awkward shape.
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Apr 4, 2016 21:03
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InitialDave posted:For smacking serious rust off thicker steel and castings, an air-powered needle gun is the tits. Braaaaaaarp. The rust isn't that serious on this thing. A lot of what you guys see in the pictures is old, caked on red mud over paint. I'm having excellent results with just degreaser and the pressure washer. The hubs look ready to paint now. I'm going to wipe'em down with mineral spirits before I prime though. Note to all you safety conscience dudes: I'm wearing eye protection when using anything powered on this thing. I'm also wearing my walkman (counts as ear protection). And I've got gloves on. 
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Apr 4, 2016 21:26
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Here's one of the things, cleaned up and ready for paint.
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Apr 5, 2016 02:42
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Does that broken stud just need to get pounded out and replaced?
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Apr 5, 2016 05:08
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Astonishing Wang posted:Does that broken stud just need to get pounded out and replaced? I have no idea how to accomplish this. Or even if it's necessary. 
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Apr 5, 2016 05:10
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It's only necessary if you want your wheels secured to the vehicle.
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Apr 5, 2016 07:22
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Godholio posted:It's only necessary if you want your wheels secured to the vehicle. That sounds like some hippie propaganda to me.  Seriously though, how are those things attached? Can I just knock it out? What are they called so I can look it up, or buy a new one?
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Apr 5, 2016 13:21
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spacetoaster posted:That sounds like some hippie propaganda to me. It's a wheel stud, and they're pressfit in from the back (if you flip it over you should see the head flush on the other side). They have a splined collar type deal that holds them in there. Get a thick steel punch, your BFH and pound it out from the front/broken side. If you have a press, you can press the new one in if not you can pull it through with the lugnut, stack of washers and a socket/breaker bar. Careful you don't over tighten and snap the new one. It's quite easy, I did it on my jeep in the parking lot at work. Hardest part will be finding the right stud; once you take out the broken one take everything (including lugnut) into O'Reillys etc and they should be able to match it and send you on your way for $1-2. Grab a few spares while you're at it.
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Apr 5, 2016 14:54
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I have one that I need to pound into the tire carrier on my Jeep - good to know I won't need a press!
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Apr 5, 2016 15:51
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Yeah they go in real easy. If you make sure to align the splines on the new one with the slight spline pattern on the bore from the old one, it's even easier. Just spin it gently while pulling it gently into place, you'll feel the splines rubbing against each other and can stop turning as it drops into alignment then pull it through with a lugnut and some lovely washers like everyone said.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:15
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Okay, I went to autozone today to try and snag a replacement stem for that one that had broken off. I brought the drum in to the store and the guy asked me what I needed. I showed him the broken stem and said I needed a replacement. He then asked my what size? What length? What's are the threads? I told him I didn't know. The a-hole then pointed to the shelf containing about a million different stems and said "good luck finding a match" and went back to whatever he was doing on the computer before I walked up. Here's a brake cylinder I took off today: 
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Apr 5, 2016 23:53
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Stuff like this might help you find the right studs: http://walcks4wd.com/hub-bolt-rh-thread.html "Hub Bolt RH 1/2-20" thread that is used on models with the hub and drum that are pressed together." Wheel cylinder looks perfectly fine 
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Apr 5, 2016 23:56
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spacetoaster posted:The a-hole then pointed to the shelf containing about a million different stems and said "good luck finding a match" and went back to whatever he was doing on the computer before I walked up. Damnit Elmnt80
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Apr 6, 2016 00:10
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spacetoaster posted:Okay, I went to autozone today to try and snag a replacement stem for that one that had broken off. RockAuto doesn't have '44 covered, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say a '45 CJ2A one might fit. Wagner BD61223. They're less than a dollar so no harm in trying.
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Apr 6, 2016 00:19
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spacetoaster posted:Okay, I went to autozone today to try and snag a replacement stem for that one that had broken off. What the gently caress? That's like the easiest way to find the correct part on one of the most irritating things on a car. Lugnuts, studs, and brakelines are the most irritating to try and match because there's so many. Bring me a drum or hub, the broken stud, and some whole ones and tell me it's going on a Willys? I will hook you the hell up.
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Apr 6, 2016 03:16
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Bucephalus posted:Damnit Elmnt80 Hey, I was busy looking up kits to bag my avalanche. Gonna lay frame. Anyone know if I can make plastic shoot sparks though? (What the poo poo man, that is a bad parts store, get a new one. It would literally take that jackass 5 minutes in a decent store to find thread size, length and how big the nurling is and start pulling up options. I'd do it but I'm 99% positive you're not in florida.) Edit: Some quick googling shows that ken is most likely right and studs from a cj2a will fit. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 04:57
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Yeah gently caress that store - when I snapped off a stud doing things at work, I sent out an underling with my broken parts & $10 - the local parthous busted out a digital caliper and took measurements before sending him back with $4 and the right studs. If your local Autozone sucks, try finding a one-off place that supplies local shops. I've also gotten on excellent terms with my local O'Reilly's and they all know me know and are super helpful.
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Apr 6, 2016 05:15
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I've found that NAPA tends to have the fewest blank stares, and Autozone the most. Oreilley is somewhere in the middle.
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Apr 6, 2016 05:22
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Small town NAPAs are the best because they are staffed by grey beard car wizards who talk poo poo about everything
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Apr 6, 2016 05:26
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8ender posted:Small town NAPAs are the best because they are staffed by grey beard car wizards who talk poo poo about everything Yeah, exactly. And you can just say that you need some random part, and as long as it's for a 30+ year old domestic vehicle (and why would it be anything else??) they'll actually know what you mean and what the part number is off the top of their heads. I haven't gotten that kind of service from any of the other chains.
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Apr 6, 2016 05:48
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It's not just domestics though, the guys at the rural NAPA near me just wandered into the pile of poo poo on shelves and produced a coil for a 1993 BMW 525i like magic a few years ago. If they don't have it the policy is order by 10am, here by 12, otherwise wait till tomorrow.
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Apr 6, 2016 06:09
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I find that Oreilly has the best coverage for old/weird/rare cars. Engine gasket and seal kit for a 1994 Justy? One day out, in the hub warehouse. CPS for a 1988 Comanche? In stock, come get it. TPS for same? Also in stock. Exhaust manifold gasket for the Justy? In stock, come get it. Exact fit muffler for the Justy? In stock too. And their prices tend to be within 10-30% of rockauto and their employees reasonably smart and helpful too. If they weren't 12 miles away they would be my first stop for everything, as it is, I go by CAP, they might have it, then NAPA, they're closed because it's not between 1 and 2pm on the alternate wednesdays that they are open, then Advance and they don't have it, then AZ, another CAP, Oreillys, and another Advance are all 1 mile apart in the next town over so I just go down the row till I find what I need.
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Apr 6, 2016 12:31
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I can set a replenishing stock order for whatever I want so long as its at a dc (and I think I'll sell it). But its weird that they just have justy parts on a shelf unless its a hub/mini-dc store for your area.
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Apr 6, 2016 14:40
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Is nobody else just killing it with these Advance Auto 40-50 off 100 coupons? Sometimes when I come in with 3 separate online orders the guy at the counter can't believe I am paying what I am. Bonus is my local one seems to be the most helpful shop in town though all are pretty good near me.
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Apr 6, 2016 14:57
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everdave posted:Is nobody else just killing it with these Advance Auto 40-50 off 100 coupons? Sometimes when I come in with 3 separate online orders the guy at the counter can't believe I am paying what I am. Bonus is my local one seems to be the most helpful shop in town though all are pretty good near me. Wait, what? Are these coupons on their website?
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Apr 6, 2016 15:40
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8ender posted:Small town NAPAs are the best because they are staffed by grey beard car wizards who talk poo poo about everything But they always have the worst hours.  I've never had a bad O'Reilly's or NAPA. Not all are great, but the average Autozone seems to be utter garbage nowadays. I haven't had a reason to hit up my new local NAPA, but the O'Reilly's seems to be decent. That brand won me over by having a box of dash bulbs for a '66 Corvette a couple of years ago. There was about half an inch of dust on it, but they worked. Godholio fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 15:55
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Elmnt80 posted:I can set a replenishing stock order for whatever I want so long as its at a dc (and I think I'll sell it). But its weird that they just have justy parts on a shelf unless its a hub/mini-dc store for your area. Yeah, I was confused too. I dunno why ANY RENIX jeep or Justy parts are in stock anywhere, practically no one has them anymore. Not that I'm complaining.
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Apr 6, 2016 15:58
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spacetoaster posted:Wait, what? Are these coupons on their website? dude how do people not know about these - even the employees are like how do you get this discount? right now TRT41 takes 40 off 100 plus if you sign up and go through fatwallet you are supposed to get 6% cash back but that is hit or miss
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Apr 6, 2016 16:31
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everdave posted:dude how do people not know about these - even the employees are like how do you get this discount? Dude, I'm gonna need you to explain this slowly in dumb people words for me. I have a pile of parts in the elecrolysis tank right now.
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Apr 6, 2016 16:46
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spacetoaster posted:Dude, I'm gonna need you to explain this slowly in dumb people words for me. sign up at fatwallet.com for cash back and click the link to advance auto from their store listing page (this step is unnecessary but if you want the chance to earn 6% of your purchase price back by paypal in a few months) at advance auto website add up an order for store pickup that totals as close to at least $100 per order use coupon code trt41 at checkout it will take $40 off $100 rinse and repeat as many times as you want, i think my personal best was 4 separate online orders placed and picked up at same store same day same time
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Apr 6, 2016 17:42
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My autozone story is that they're the only local store to me that had 5/32" vacuum line or whatever stupid size you need for a Saab 9-5 (which is probably supposed to be 4mm). That and I bought my cheap code reader there since they had them on sale making it the cheapest of cheap code readers. I usually go to Oreilly though since they have the best employees, which honestly shouldn't matter to me much since I pretty much only buy oil and other fluids there.
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Apr 6, 2016 21:55
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No joke, online discounts are better than what we get as employees and what we can do with price matching in store. You can also do speedperks, their rewards program. Spend a hundo, get 20 off your next 40. Spend 30 get 5 off 10, I think.
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Apr 6, 2016 23:51
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Yeah, but no coupon beats 65-75% off certain suspension components like tie rod ends. Also like 50% off shocks and such. Now if only o'reillys paid me enough I could afford such things.  Also, gently caress advance so much right now. About once a month I have someone wanting me to price match that online ordering poo poo who gets all pissy I won't do it. loving sell off your company already. I should probably stop helping to derail this thread though.
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Apr 7, 2016 10:17
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Raluek posted:I've found that NAPA tends to have the fewest blank stares, and Autozone the most. Oreilley is somewhere in the middle. Local NAPA for me, a young woman behind the counter as I walked up went beneath the table and handed me a radiator hose for an MGB without me even opening my mouth. Either she was a stalker or she was psychic. I swear by NAPA now .
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Apr 7, 2016 14:59
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Yesterday was bad storms so I didn't get much done. I did, however, throw the other rear brake drum in the electrolysis tank before bed. This is what I just pulled out:  I've got my eyes out for someone throwing away a kid's backyard pool so I can make a larger tank. I've also, reluctantly, come to the conclusion that I need to replace the bearings and seals in the rear differential. After seeing the condition of the other bearings and seals there's just no way that I can leave it "as is" if I want this to be right. Cue me harassing my neighbors for knowledge and help.
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Apr 7, 2016 15:49
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seals are easy, buy twice what you need, remove old, booger up first replacement, curse a lot, finish replacement on second set.. bearings get interesting. there are probably shims under them that adjust the carrier offset side to side, pinion depth, carrier preload, and pinion preload. if you can disassemble without loving them up, you may be able to just put new bearings in with the same shims, but not guaranteed.
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Apr 7, 2016 16:12
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So I'm completely disassembling the differential today. Found some damage, I'm assuming that's from water getting in there at some point. Can I paint the inside of the differential case? Does it matter?  I see a chip, or two, off the gear. Is that okay? This thing isn't going to be driving off road, or even on road that much.
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Apr 8, 2016 17:11
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