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Whatcha talkin' bout, Willys? (Sorry)spacetoaster posted:I am an operator level maintenance guy.
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May 14, 2015 23:33
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| # ¿ May 18, 2024 10:22 |
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The wheels will be pretty durable, but for any body panels, ensure that the blasting is done by someone who knows what they're doing with thinner material like automotive panelwork. Being too aggressive with a blaster can damage things. If it's someone at a bodyshop or passed onto by one, they should be ok, but if they're used to dealing with bloody great lumps of iron casting, take care. As Slow Is Fast says, electrolytic de-rusting is great, really works well.
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May 19, 2015 19:30
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Raluek posted:I'm not going to tell you what to do with your neato project, but I kind of think this is a bad idea. If you're like me, you'll get it all the way apart, realize how much work there is to put it all back together, and get really stressed out. I think it's better to work on one thing at a time. Get it running, then refresh the suspension (or whatever), then fix the tub (or whatever), and so on and so forth. That way each little success gets it closer to looking like a real vehicle, instead of a pile of parts. I also say don't be too worried about things that aren't "correct". My dad's Austin has a lot of things on it that are "wrong" for the car as per its 1930s spec, but they were common modifications done by people in the sixties, so they're both part of the car's history and are themselves as old as most classic cars anyway. Were he to re-do it ground-up, he might take certain things back to standard because they have to come apart anyway, but other stuff like it having upgraded* brakes would be kept. It doesn't have to be completely correct for a '44 Jeep, because it's your Grandfather's Jeep, and it'll always be correct as that. *This is when "upgraded" means "actually fitted with hydraulics rather than cable".
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May 24, 2015 13:35
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spacetoaster posted:They're in my gun vault.
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May 30, 2015 20:57
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Oooh, I feel your pain. Decades of rust on a spline joint is always fun.
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May 30, 2015 22:07
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Looks suspiciously like the 2" nut Land Rover axles have. The good news is thay're normally not that tight, their primary purpose is to preload/lock the bearings in place.
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Mar 26, 2016 00:14
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For smacking serious rust off thicker steel and castings, an air-powered needle gun is the tits. Braaaaaaarp. A knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder is very good, though it does leave a slightly polished finish and won't get into all the pits. This isn't super important, but for a really good finish to receive paint, I find wire wheel followed up by a final blasting to be well worth a try. I wouldn't go with just blasting from the get-go, because my experience is that unless you have a full-on industrial setup in terms of air supply, it takes quite a while on "proper" rust. Note that blasted bare metal is about the single most rustable thing going, so don't leave it any longer than you have to before putting something on it. Lastly, a shout to using electrolytic de-rusting on things that'll fit in a tub to do so, especially things which are an awkward shape.
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Apr 4, 2016 21:03
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In theory there's a risk of hydrogen embrittlement from using electrolysis on things like gears. However, if you're concerned about that, a domestic oven is hot enough to carry out the "bake off" heat treatment to get any hydrogen out again. A few (~4) hours at about 200 C seems commonly suggested, which ties up with the temperatures (though not the times) used in a manufacturing environment. I'm honestly not sure how significant the risk is, though. I might have a chat with the metallurgists at work about it.
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Apr 9, 2016 13:04
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| # ¿ May 18, 2024 10:22 |
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I spoke to my pet metallurgist. Yes, hydrogen embrittlement of hardened/high strength material is an issue with electrolytic de-rusting. Yes, sticking it in your oven for about 4hrs at 200 C is an appropriate way of dealing with it.
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Apr 11, 2016 08:40
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