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That actually went about how I expected it to, for once. One leaf eye bolt was a bastard due to being rusted into the bushing sleeve a bit, but a few solid swings with the 4lb BFH persuaded it to move. The rest mostly came out without a fight, likely as the shackles and shackle hangars were replaced a few years prior (justfordthings.txt) so all the hardware was reasonably new. I don't really do anything that could be called soothing, in fact I think my words right before that picture were something like "yep this one is hosed, cut it up and scrap it"  Too bad we didn't get it driving but at least it is rollable and only really needs the ABS wiring fixed, a driveshaft, ebrake cables, and brake lines to be back on the road. If you are going to do any significant work on this thing, get some plywood and 6 ton HF jacks, our  jackstand contraption setup scared the poo poo out of me and I would very much like to never have that happen again.
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May 25, 2015 12:51
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 02:41 |
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leica posted:Well that sounds like a pain in the rear end. Here in FL I can get a car home with just a title and bill of sale. Hey at least it didn't get impounded and you didn't end up with 3 criminal charges, two of them felonies. All because you didn't have your paperwork filled out properly. (Yes, I got all charges dismissed.) </derail> You order those ebrake cables, drum parts, and driveshaft yet?  (Full list: rear right/left ebrake cables, at least one wheel cylinder, brake hw kit, rear frame to axle hydraulic hose, preflared hardlines of the right lengths, rear driveshaft)
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May 26, 2015 23:59
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I'm gonna throw out a stereotypically massive tome of words about that driveshaft just to avoid any confusion, or create more, I'm not sure which. It's a double cardan - single cardan type with a slip yoke at the single cardan end. It uses 1330 size ujoints. The double cardan end, rather than having a flat round flange with four bolt holes in it (like some vehicles use) has what us rednecks call a CV style yoke, i.e. it bolts to a yoke, but not like one you put a single ujoint into. Think the transfer case end of a stock Cherokee front driveshaft, but bigger, since it uses 1330 joints not 1310s. Parts, from transfer case end to pinion end, are: ujoint CV socket yoke (either CV yoke style, or flange style) CV center yoke ("H-block") centering ball assembly ujoint ball stud tube yoke, which is welded to the tube, which is welded to the male spline. slip yoke (this is fine, except that the grease retention cap has gone missing, and it's staked/welded in place. Theoretically, you could just tack weld a round piece of sheetmetal of the right diameter in and it'd be fine.) ujoint pinion companion flange I've bolded all known destroyed parts, and italicized all parts I fear are destroyed. I've never seen a double cardan that blown up that DIDN'T have a damaged ball stud tube yoke, but only disassembling it will tell for sure. The H-block is recoverable, but when the driveshaft flailed around it hammered the corners enough that it peened the G-clip retention bosses in until they were oval shaped not round, so a little work with a die grinder will be required to even get the ujoints out. Now, where things get painful is - if the ball stud tube yoke is smoked, you have to cut it off the driveshaft tube, weld a new one in, and rebalance it. That is where things add up fast. I found a whole, allegedly serviceable driveshaft on car-part for $125 yesterday. By the time you replace all the things that are definitely hosed, you will probably be pushing that much as it is, and we don't even know if the ball stud tube yoke is damaged. It was really stupid on the part of dana/spicer to design that tube yoke so that the little stud isn't serviceable, but oh well, they did and now it's the way that is done. Pics, for reference: "CV yoke" style CV socket yoke:  flange style CV socket yoke:  Either of these may be installed in a given double cardan assembly assuming the ujoint series is the same and the driveshaft tube length is adjusted if/as necessary to accomodate the change. H block:  ball stud tube yoke:  The centering ball assembly goes between the little white nib on the CV socket yoke and the goofy pin-in-socket thing on the ball stud tube yoke. If you chooch the CV socket yoke, whatever, replace it for 50 bucks, but if you ruin the ball stud tube yoke, you gotta have a new one welded in and the shaft rebalanced.
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Jul 7, 2015 19:55
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How many free exhaust manifold leaks did you get with your free truck? A free truck is a free truck, good catch.
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Jul 21, 2015 19:45
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Come to Sams tomorrow morning and get a motor
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Jul 24, 2015 12:46
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 02:41 |
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So... collecting parts for an 8.25/8.8 swap immediately, or waiting till the axle explodes?  Looks a lot better, though.
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Aug 20, 2015 00:56
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