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There's something definitely not right about the save situation here, fortunately, I was able to solve my problems by cleaning out the Cars and Engines directories. Also, if any of you have any mods that you've downloaded, you might want to clean those up too. Also, there will be some rule changes coming in soon, mostly regarding turbocharging. It's not going to be unlimited anymore; rather, a turbo engine will be allowed a maximum displacement of 80% of the class maximum. As for my entries, I'm pretty sure I'm going to stick to Touring and Sportsman classes this round. I have a couple of absolute jewels of engines for both of those classes, I only need to find a car to put them into now. MrChips fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Jul 30, 2015 |
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Jul 30, 2015 04:32
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So can I enter now? I got this game a few days ago and it's excellent!
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Jul 30, 2015 04:57
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No car I make now will save, engines are fine but cars themselves NOPE.
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Jul 31, 2015 02:06
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wargames posted:No car I make now will save, engines are fine but cars themselves NOPE. I'm starting to have problems too; cars not saving properly, cars for getting they have drivetrains...I even had one that wouldn't even let me progress to beyond the fixtures tab. I say we should start (if we already haven't been doing it) submitting these problems through their support channels.
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Jul 31, 2015 02:43
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Good news folks, my 1.5l FR Touring car goes around Nurburgring in 9:40, about a minute slower than my Sportsman entry.
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Jul 31, 2015 15:51
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Since people are posting benchmarks I'll throw some in. My touring car has a 150hp 91ci engine and does the ring in ~9:20. My sports class has a 400hp 341 and does the ring in ~8:40. I think this round is going to be even closer than the last one.
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Jul 31, 2015 17:13
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MrChips posted:There's something definitely not right about the save situation here, fortunately, I was able to solve my problems by cleaning out the Cars and Engines directories. Also, if any of you have any mods that you've downloaded, you might want to clean those up too. Speaking of mods, seeing as you are using the Steam version can we use mods from the Workshop? (specifically bodies)
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Aug 1, 2015 01:31
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Kilonum posted:Speaking of mods, seeing as you are using the Steam version can we use mods from the Workshop? (specifically bodies) Yes I'm using Steam, and no there will be no mods permitted. We're having enough trouble with vanilla Automation as is.
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Aug 1, 2015 01:39
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Lost my sportsman car.  RIP Kusoyaro DX
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Aug 1, 2015 01:58
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Duckaerobics posted:Since people are posting benchmarks I'll throw some in. My touring car has a 150hp 91ci engine and does the ring in ~9:20. My sports class has a 400hp 341 and does the ring in ~8:40. I think this round is going to be even closer than the last one. If you don't mind me asking, is the 150hp figure you get due to the headers or is it a design choice? If I cheat and put short tubular headers on I can easily gain 40kW and then some. As is I'm considering adjusting my design to just put out 117kW as that is basically the amount all NA touring class cars will have.
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Aug 1, 2015 03:56
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About the most I've been able to get out of a Touring-class motor is just shy of 160 bhp. For Sportsman-class, I've gone as high as 450 bhp with a turbo engine, but the engine used mechanical fuel injection to reach that ($$$$) and its specific fuel consumption was nothing short of terrible - north of 600g/kWh. Speaking of rules, here's the revision: Turbo engines now have a displacement cap.
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Aug 1, 2015 05:05
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I just finished throwing together a Touring class for the new revision and it does the 'ring in 9:16 with it's 167 HP engine  .Costs under $7000, doesn't weigh too much more than the minimum weight, so it can take the max allowable load of fuel, and only uses 36 QP, total including only 12 in the engine (not counting the one engine category that is at -1) while still having above 40 engine reliability and above 60 overall reliability.  Took a lot of clever tricks to get it under the $$ budget, but it is fully legal as far as I can tell. The gauntlet has been thrown, gentlemen. e: just got it down to 9:11 on green hell with a bit more tweaking. 
Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Aug 1, 2015 |
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Aug 1, 2015 06:40
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Here's some tips to avoid save problems. 1) Always give your car a name. "Car Model #" is not saved, even though your trim is. 2) Don't use the save button. Always run a test to force an autosave instead. As a veteran of five million hours in the game I only had problems when I did not adhere to rule 1.
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Aug 1, 2015 08:46
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Deedle posted:I'm getting about 117kW from my 1478cc engine, finding myself restricted by the exhaust header. I was basically shooting for max performance rating. I think I could get more power if I gave it a racier cam or made it rev higher, but 150 was about the max I could get out of a 1500cc engine. The exhaust header is definitely the most restrictive part of my engine. I have also noticed that re-naming the parts of your car helps make sure it saves.
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Aug 1, 2015 14:58
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All your cars/trims and engines/variants should have unique names and/or designations, if only because it makes it easier for me to keep track of them all when this thing is running. Progress report; I wiped out Automation and reinstalled it, and so far I've had no problems. Behold, my entries: CMW R1200T  My Touring-class entry; it uses a 1200cc turbo I4 producing about 150 bhp and a lot of torque over a very wide band. It weighs in at 700.1 kilograms, costs less than $6600 and runs in the high 9:00s on the Nordschliefe, with the potential to go even faster with a bit more suspension tuning (or QP spending; it only uses 36 at the moment). CMW R4000  The R1200T's big brother, running in the Sportsman class. Powered by a non-traditional 3998cc V6 producing 400 bhp, this car is running in the mid 8:30s without any suspension tuning; I am hopeful I can crack the mid to high 8:20s by the time I'm done fiddling with it. It's a bit on the heavy side - 1007 kilos - but unfortunately it is budget constrained, as it comes in at a burger less than $13000 right now. But on the other hand, it's bitchin' 70s brown. On that note, I will be disqualifying any car that isn't in a sweet 1970s colour. 
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Aug 1, 2015 17:07
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^^ This is the body style I am having trouble with. I was going for a 2995 turbo i6... As for people doing benchmarking... when my game isn't breaking ever single loving car I've made in the last 4 weeks... with the rules prior to the change I was making ~290hp from 1499cc, 390 from 2998 Turbo, and around 660 from a flat plane v8 coming in around 6200cc. Cast iron block and heads... seem to be good for 3-8 horse power. What directories do I need to clear out? (Steam) edit: [drive]\users\<userid>\my documents\my games\automation ... cars & engines. I nuked everything in here and then I'm re-verifying game content via Steam. Where do I report anything? I've been all over their forums and don't see a proper submission thread. extreme_accordion fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Aug 1, 2015 |
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Aug 1, 2015 19:00
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extreme_accordion posted:As for people doing benchmarking... when my game isn't breaking ever single loving car I've made in the last 4 weeks... with the rules prior to the change I was making ~290hp from 1499cc, 390 from 2998 Turbo, and around 660 from a flat plane v8 coming in around 6200cc. No you weren't. At least not using 1970 or 1975 as the year and with cast exhaust manifolds. Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Aug 1, 2015 |
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Aug 1, 2015 23:21
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Dumb question, how do we add the weight for fuel?
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Aug 2, 2015 02:27
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This game really does need V6 turbos
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Aug 2, 2015 02:54
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Chiwie posted:Dumb question, how do we add the weight for fuel? You need to leave room in your weight allowance for the fuel. The weight of your car plus fuel can't be more than the max weight for the class. If the fuel weight takes you over you can't carry as much. Top Hats Monthly posted:This game really does need V6 turbos It really really does. On that note I made 1200cc turbo motor for the touring class. It makes 200hp, but only has a reliability of 26. I'm tempted to run it anyway as I got it down to 9:02 around the ring.
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Aug 2, 2015 03:21
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HotCanadianChick posted:No you weren't. At least not using 1970 or 1975 as the year and with cast exhaust manifolds. Keep in mind that with a turbo setup you have indirect control over the exhaust header size by means of the turbine size and A/R ratio. I'm already working on a 1.2l FP V8 TT comedy option. Running an economy type low pressure turbo, at something like 140kW. Just to see if the increased power is enough to offset the increased weight, without the fuel consumption going through the roof.
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Aug 2, 2015 05:31
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wceplICR3A
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Aug 2, 2015 10:10
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What IS considered good fuel consumption in 1975?
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Aug 2, 2015 10:12
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Riso posted:What IS considered good fuel consumption in 1975? 600kw/g+?
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Aug 2, 2015 10:39
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It would require a lot less busting out of calculators and/or googling for conversion if everyone posting specs would use the same units of measure. Nobody except Australian and NZ really solely uses KW for engine power measurement, for example, and the game has at least three different units of measure available for fuel efficiency, none of which are very suited for throwing into google for a quick conversion.
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Aug 2, 2015 18:55
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use metric for everything except power problem solved.
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Aug 2, 2015 19:24
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I'm sure this is a very silly question but.. How do I speed up/skip to the end of the test track? Can I? Waiting through the Nordschleife every time I tweak something will take a million years. Edit: Wait, it gives me the totals right away in track stats? Edit two: For posterity - my first car ever, the proud Howler Stealth for Touring class.  9:27 around Green Hell, before I have started tuning things or distributing quality points. Duuk fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 19:27
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Hit stop.
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Aug 2, 2015 19:28
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Kilonum posted:use metric for everything except power I already do this, but it's far easier for me to get a sense (when tuning the car and engine) of how fuel efficient a car is if I have it displaying in MPG, since I already am familiar with what is good efficiency and what is poor in terms of real cars I deal with every day using MPG. My comment was aimed as much as the one poster a little ways back in the thread who was using cubic inches for measuring his engine size instead of CC like he should be 
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Aug 2, 2015 21:00
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HotCanadianChick posted:I already do this, but it's far easier for me to get a sense (when tuning the car and engine) of how fuel efficient a car is if I have it displaying in MPG, since I already am familiar with what is good efficiency and what is poor in terms of real cars I deal with every day using MPG. for L/100km, lower numbers are better (and for reference, 10L/100km = ~23.5mpg US)
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Aug 2, 2015 21:45
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I give up - every car I made has been eaten again.  Stuff that was clearly NOT missing from the build is now missing according to the load script.
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Aug 3, 2015 04:14
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A few tips for anyone still having trouble. I'm not sure if how much of this is superstitious magic and how much works, but I haven't lost a car in a while doing this: - If you want to change bodies start over completely. - There are two fixture tabs in the model section now. Only ever use the second one. - Give each section a unique name. - Never ever touch the little save icon. Instead run the car on a track and run the engine before you close. Anyway here is my touring car submission. Introducing the Decimator Mustique Turbo   This beauty has a 200hp 73ci Turbo motor and goes around the ring in 9:00 flat. The engine reliability ins't great, but overall it's over 60. Hopefully it's the fastest car and makes up for breaking all the time and using too much fuel.
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Aug 3, 2015 17:25
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Duckaerobics posted:This beauty has a 200hp 73ci Turbo motor and goes around the ring in 9:00 flat. Would you believe me if I told you my 1200cc of turbo boosted joy does it in 8:59.99?
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Aug 3, 2015 17:51
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I haven't noticed this mentioned - I am assuming engine reliability is taken into account separately and overall separately. What I would like to know is whether I can safely tank my bodywork Quality (provided the overall stays high enough) for lower costs and weight or will that mean it'll be pooping doors and bumpers on every corner? I mean there is a lot of leeway between "stay sturdy for one race" and "endure fifteen years of abuse and hamfisting".
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Aug 3, 2015 19:01
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Also I was looking, I didn't see the specifications for any particular fuel you're for the vehicles.
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Aug 3, 2015 20:51
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Kilonum posted:use metric for everything
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Aug 3, 2015 22:52
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Howler Stealth is down to a hair below 9:05 in Green Hell with the same ~200hp that some of you are reporting. Not sure where you take those last couple of seconds. I found about 5-10s in suspension tuning today and am having a hard time finding more somewhere. Then again, there's still plenty of time to fiddle and I just started yesterday 
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Aug 3, 2015 23:34
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Duckaerobics posted:- Never ever touch the little save icon. Instead run the car on a track and run the engine before you close. God damnit. This is exactly when it is breaking if I think back. Save button after hitting the track and then closing the app.
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Aug 4, 2015 03:57
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I have to hand it to you, MrChips, for making this competition so interesting to meet. I have a 1.2L turbo making more than 200hp, but my naturally aspirated 1.5L manages 150hp with decent efficiency. What to do, what to do... Also, the car-eating bugs in Automation are irritating, to say the least.
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Aug 4, 2015 04:51
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I've been working on my sportsman class entry. I have a 400hp NA V8 powering a car around the ring in 8:32. I believe this car is legal, although it is maxing out the cost.
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Aug 4, 2015 05:28
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