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Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

ought ten posted:

THose welds look terrible

Yeah did that thing not fall apart and kill everyone after all? Makes me feel better about my lovely welds, if so.

Also, this looks awesome.

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Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.
That's the busiest dyno run I've ever seen. Also, yeah, a just a lil' bit lean. :v:

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.
What's wrong with just sliding the forks up in the triples like crazy? As long as you don't lift them so high they bottom under braking whatever. Put a chin rest on the top of them if they're like 18 inches up.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

Problem is the top triples are not clamp-type triples, they're moped style where the fork cap bolt holds the fork and triple together. The fork can't slide through them. Top triple is just a stamped piece of flat steel. I'd like to keep the front end because it already has a good caliper and disc and etc. on it, and i dunno what other options there are besides customizing the forks or customizing the top triple maybe.

Ahh, that's unfortunate - I'd want to be able to customize the front ride height as well, a little change there goes a long ways.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.
I'd bet he doesn't have any motor on you, just gearing. Looking for more power without having a good reason (or knowing where you want that power) is sorta putting a very expensive cart in front of the horse, IMO. Front sprockets should be cheap, if you just use different fronts you should be able to get within spitting distance of something resembling reasonable gearing.

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Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

The gearing was only an issue at that one track which won't be seen until September next year. The guy I want to be competing with (because he has the same motor as me) up front has a nice fairing and some motor mods. Although not many motor mods. Also has a totally different frame and wheels, so I'm wondering who has the advantage there. I picked some relatively wide (2.75") 17" tires for this bike but most people in the old 50s have 18" narrower ones, some of them 2.0 even. So far I think I'm seeing why they don't take anything wider, which is I've never gotten it that far over, so a fairly wide margin of the edge of the tire isn't getting used. But maybe that's just because I'm not going fast enough and leaning it hard enough.

Especially at NJ it's absolutely amazing how sensitive the steering is on that bike, I have to be incredibly light on the bars to keep it smooth. The steering angle we gave it doesn't look that crazy to me but maybe it's wrong, or maybe it needs a damper, or maybe bigger wheels, or maybe a longer wheelbase. On the other hand if I just touch it real real gentle like it does seem to work, so maybe I should just learn to work with it.

Oh and here's my greatest trophy yet


And at this last event there were a lot of other things to see, a vintage car race club, and some guy with a bunch of 80s Ducati race bikes on display, but who cares about those, this is the thing I wanna see:



An actual original 80s (maybe?) Kreidler 50cc GP bike. It is just the weirdest looking thing in person. It's like a foot high and the bars are like 10" tip to tip and ridiculously long. The ergonomics on it look like the worst I've ever seen on a bike. But it has a trellis frame and it revs to 17,000. Wow.

That Kriedler is fantastic.

You probably don't need wider wheels - scrubbing rotating weight by running narrow wheels is a time honored tradition of lightweight bike riders looking for more acceleration. The less rotating mass you have, the better off you are. If you're not sliding the bike at max lean, you don't need more tire yet. Also, if you're running wider tires but unable to get to the edges of them, you've probably got some tire profile issues (due to either pinched or stretched sidewall), although that may be not really fixable, depending on the availability of your tires/wheel sizes.

Fairings are hugely helpful to aero - I saw about +8 mph on the Brammo thanks to fairing, so I highly recommend prioritizing a fairing, followed by figuring out if you can get a performance oriented tire, and fit that tire to exactly the wheel size, with a preference to smaller rim setups. Try and figure out your gearing so that you always have ~1.5k of good power left in top gear at the end of the longest straight on your track. If you've got a range within that space, then you can change the gearing for individual corner setup, but I have a feeling your best bet is to just optimize so you have some power headroom at the end of your longest straight for when you pick up a little more speed during the race.

Really sensitive steering is pretty much a staple of lightweight race bikes - damper isn't going to fix the geometry issues (it'll just force slower inputs, which you can do by hand). Tune your bike for midcorner feel, not straightline stuff. If it feels good in the corners, doesn't deflect uncomfortably over bumps, etc, then just focus on riding technique and staying off the bars over adjusting the geometry.

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