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http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/5748539950.html
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Aug 26, 2016 22:36
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I have a friend who lives in Denver that's into DSMs. Should I let him know or are you trying to buy it?
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Aug 26, 2016 22:39
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th vwls hv scpd posted:Ugh. I think I threw away the last camber bolts I had. I actually think I still have a set of 2G camber bolts somewhere. I haven't brought myself to throw them away.
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Aug 26, 2016 23:25
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th vwls hv scpd posted:I have a friend who lives in Denver that's into DSMs. Should I let him know or are you trying to buy it? It would be good if someone could look at it; the guy says it's an ABS car with no sunroof, but didn't respond to my request for information about the interior. He also said that he was getting the car checked out to verify if it's in fact the CAS. Also no real information about rust, which is a concern on a Colorado car. From the pictures it doesn't look like a big problem on the shock towers or the engine bay, but there are some other problem areas to look at.
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Aug 27, 2016 09:14
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MikeyTsi posted:It would be good if someone could look at it; the guy says it's an ABS car with no sunroof, but didn't respond to my request for information about the interior. He also said that he was getting the car checked out to verify if it's in fact the CAS. Rust...on a Colorado car?
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Aug 27, 2016 15:19
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Fuelslt1 posted:Rust...on a Colorado car? They salt the roads, do they not?
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Sep 2, 2016 10:13
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I don't think they use salt I think they sand the roads. I can obviously be completely wrong and often am. I am completely wrong as suspected. Elephanthead fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Sep 2, 2016 |
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Sep 2, 2016 16:32
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MikeyTsi posted:They salt the roads, do they not? They use a mixture of sand and/or magnesium chloride depending on where you are in CO and what the conditions are like. No salt.
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Sep 2, 2016 17:20
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Fuelslt1 posted:... magnesium chloride ... So... they do, in fact, use salt?
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Sep 2, 2016 17:42
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mag chloride isn't typically thought of as "salt" by anyone but chemists and maybe people with BP issues, but I think KCl is the usual salt substitute not MgCl2. However, it's the chlorine atoms that catalyze rusting, so, welp. Magnesium chloride may cause it slower but it should still do the same thing, theoretically. CO's rustfree status probably has more to do with the fact that it's basically a high altitude desert with super low humidity most of the time.
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Sep 2, 2016 17:54
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With a similar climate to CO, we used to use magnesium chloride and now we use 'conventional' road salt to save money. It makes a huge difference to corrosion; we're talking "paint looks yucky long-term" before vs. systemic panel rot now.
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Sep 2, 2016 18:02
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kastein posted:mag chloride isn't typically thought of as "salt" by anyone but chemists and maybe people with BP issues, but I think KCl is the usual salt substitute not MgCl2. Yeah...whatever this guy just said.
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Sep 3, 2016 16:10
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BoostCreep posted:I actually think I still have a set of 2G camber bolts somewhere. I haven't brought myself to throw them away. I could certainly use them.
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Sep 6, 2016 11:29
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th vwls hv scpd posted:I have a friend who lives in Denver that's into DSMs. Should I let him know or are you trying to buy it? Any luck?
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Sep 6, 2016 11:30
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MikeyTsi posted:Any luck? He hasn't gotten back to me yet. I'm trying to get him to go still.
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Sep 6, 2016 13:33
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Good news: It looks like I've finally reached a point where I'm not really ill or somehow injuring myself to the point where I can't move. Bad news: I may be employed soon, which means my time to work on cars will be restricted, and 14" has proven surprisingly resistant to my attempts to guilt-trip him in to coming down to help me work on my car. I've got some other DSM-owner buddies though, and they're probably dumb/crazy enough to help me get the car running (they ARE DSM owners, after all), so stay tuned.
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Oct 11, 2016 02:34
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So, funny story. Apparently you can seriously damage an engine when just replacing a coil. Getting the Talon fixed just got a big bump in priority.
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Oct 27, 2016 08:03
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What? How?
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Oct 27, 2016 12:40
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Imagine, if you will: Car starts running rough and throwing misfire codes. Not a big deal, I've had this happen before when the coil took a poo poo. (Looks like there's a small crack in the cylinder head that allows coolant to weep in to cylinder 4. I was going to keep it cleaned out and bodge it with jb weld in a few weeks). Pull off coil, pull remove plugs, pull injector and fuel pump fuse. Check compression just to "make sure". Compression is around 120 on each cylinder. Buy new coil, install. Car won't start. I can hear the pump going so I'm pretty sure the fuses are good. Assume I got a bum coil. Pull coil off, pull ignition module, discover that I have a male-male situation going on. After trip from Napa, discover there's a small adapter in there. Manage to find it stuck to the old coil. Install on new coil, car won't start. Reinstall coil, car won't start. Pull coil, pull spark plugs. Definitely getting fuel. Check compression again, now 1 and 4 are showing 60 PSI. Super. Now I don't have a car in addition to not having a job.
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Oct 28, 2016 00:27
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Sounds like every dsm owner I've ever known, to be fair.
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Oct 28, 2016 00:27
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I still don't get how it broke it.
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Oct 28, 2016 04:46
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Not the DSM.
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Oct 29, 2016 02:49
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I still don't get how it broke it. It's a mystery for the ages, and I'm not going to know what actually happened to it until I can tear the head off, which won't be until I can get the Talon functional so I can push the Saturn where the Talon is currently languishing. I fully expect a shop would charge more than the car is worth to replace the head, so I guess I'm doing it myself. I've got a guy that says he can help/finish the Talon if I can get it towed up to his shop (not difficult, I've got connections), but he's absolutely terrible at responding to messages/planning. I might have to try to do it myself. Borrowing a car at the moment so MY GIRLFRIEND and I can at least get around, but I'm not positive how long that'll last. I've considered just picking up a cheap shitbox to get through the next few weeks/month, but I'm pretty tapped financially at the moment (especially since my unemployment apparently ran out last week even though it still shows that I've got $3500 left?)
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Nov 13, 2016 09:20
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Conquest turns over and fires up nicely via jumpers, but the steel wire sneaking out of the Sumitomos tells me to get AAA on it. And maybe I need a more sane alternator or a better brand of battery. I've got a guy that says he can help the S-dime if I can get it towed up to his shop, but he's absolutely godawful at responding to messages/planning, so that thing's going to Pick-n-Pull. If those idiots can ever get their poo poo together. I hate vehicles.
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Nov 17, 2016 11:06
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ENGINE CONTROL HARNESS HAS BEEN PULLED OUT OF THE PASSENGER PAY. I REPEAT, ENGINE CONTROL HARNESS HAS BEEN PULLED OUT OF THE PASSENGER BAY.
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Nov 27, 2016 01:28
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Nov 27, 2016 12:18
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Out with the "old": And in with the "new":     Next up: "everything", including new hoses, hopefully new struts/springs (need adjustment kits), hopefully new radiator.
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Nov 28, 2016 22:59
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Also discovered a bunch of my tools (including pretty much a whole set of Craftsman 3/8" sockets) and my air compressor were likely stolen. Balls.
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Nov 28, 2016 23:56
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Welp, I have about a week or so to try to get this loving thing running, or I'm probably going to have to find a shitbox so we can at least get around while I try to get this loving thing running. Old wiring harness is now on the ground, and I got the a/c line that runs along the firewall reinstalled. Got stalled for a bit as I tried to figure out heater core hose connections, but I think I have that figured out so I can actually start putting stuff back together. Pictures tomorrow. Maybe.
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Dec 20, 2016 09:13
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Adventures in,... not the Talon! MY GIRLFRIEND's father's truck was making the bad noises when braking, so I decided to give him a hand and do the brakes for him since he's been letting us borrow the truck a lot. Who's this fucker?  Apparently they make rotors that have the hub and bearings and poo poo integrated. loving Fords.  New rotor/hub/bearing bullshit back on. Not pictured: Having to pack the bearings by hand because apparently I don't know what the gently caress I'm doing and bought the wrong grease gun.  Apparently I bought some great loving grease though!  Assembled. Other side looked the same, so just imagine the pictures flipped around.  MikeyTsi fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Jan 15, 2017 |
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Jan 15, 2017 07:00
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I just wanted to note that I'm $800 in to fixing a car that isn't the loving Talon; apparently there was a "catastrophic failure" of one or more "tension components" that caused "the valves and pistons to kiss". Mr. Baker's Dozen found a redesigned timing kit that SHOULD hopefully prevent that from happening again, and that, a junkyard head, and other misc. parts and we're close to having the fucker back together so I can drive a European car with a GM motor again.
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Jan 15, 2017 07:07
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Never fear, I'm (sort of) working on the Talon too! After tearing in to the Saturn about as far as I could, I started loving around with coolant hoses while Baker's Dick wrapped up what he was doing on the truck and started on the Saturn. Flipped the "gently caress it" switch and cut one of the heater core hoses down to a usable size. This is the sad remains of what won't be used on the car.  Heater core hoses installed. I don't see any kinks or stretches that would impede flow.  Also changed out the coolant hoses for the turbo and the feeds going to the throttle body.  I've still got two hoses, which I'm relatively certain are for the cooler assembly that is part of the oil filter assembly. I'll have to raise the car up to reasonably get to that, so I'll change those out when I jack the car up again (and drain the oil). Here's my super custom lighting solution so I can maybe work on the car through our never-ending darkness. 
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Jan 15, 2017 07:15
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#gofuckyourself $40 later, I've got a new connector, and after putting the lovely butt (hurr hurr) connectors they supplied in the bin and using my superior ones, I have that repaired and plugged back in. Still throwing misfire codes and running rough. gently caress. So, I tempt fate and once again pull the coil and plugs, and after pulling the fuel pump and injector fuses, run a compression test. Spark plugs, 1 > 4:  These are brand new, right out of the box. 1 and 4 are clean, 4 has a more distinct "wet" look and more of a gas smell than the others. 2 and 3 are black. Compression: Cylinder 1:  Cylinder 2:  Cylinder 3:  Cylinder 4:  So, looks like I don't have to tear the engine apart again at least! At this point, I'm thinking #4 is the cause of my angst, but since I've got new plugs and a new coil (I'd bought another coil in the adventures that led to the catastrophic engine failure), I'm somewhat at a loss as to what may have poo poo the bed to cause that to happen. "All the way to 13"" is of the opinion that I should yank the rail and see if the injectors are pulsing, but I don't have the time to do that tonight. I may not be able to look at it until Wednesday, which presents somewhat of a problem.
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Jan 17, 2017 10:01
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Is it a waste-spark system? Because I think 1 and 4 would share a coil and so would 2 and 3, that'd explain your two-cylinder misfire neatly.
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Jan 17, 2017 19:08
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kastein posted:Is it a waste-spark system? Because I think 1 and 4 would share a coil and so would 2 and 3, that'd explain your two-cylinder misfire neatly. Ecotec engines are coil-on-plug.
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Jan 17, 2017 23:45
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It is a waste spark system. It also definitely could be coils. I've run into that issue before.
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Jan 18, 2017 04:50
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Left Ventricle posted:Ecotec engines are coil-on-plug. Depends. 07+ in the case of the 2.2, 06 and older are waste spark. The one he's working on is an early 2.2, 02 at the newest. I think most of the other Ecotec family was coil on plug, but I'm not positive. The 2.2 was the base engine in most cars it was sold in. kastein posted:Is it a waste-spark system? Because I think 1 and 4 would share a coil and so would 2 and 3, that'd explain your two-cylinder misfire neatly. We have a winner. 1-4 and 2-3 share coils on the L61. It could also be a bad ignition module, but I've had a coil poo poo itself on mine once. And my car has the same engine, just with a DBW throttle body and no power steering pump. You'll probably have to swap the ignition cassette. You can't buy the coils individually (you can rip them apart from a junkyard cassette, but it's a PITA), just get the whole thing. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 07:09
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COP, two coils (you can see the bulges). The fucker is brand new, I'd bought it right before the valves got toasted and two days ago was the first time it was on an actually running car.
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Jan 18, 2017 09:20
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Depending on how the coil cassette grounds, it could be a missing bolt holding it to the head as well. Or the primary trigger wire from the ignitor or ECU to the coilpack could be bad for that particular coil - given the condition of the MAP harness, I wouldn't rule that out.
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Jan 18, 2017 16:57
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Early L Series Ecotecs had poo poo coilpacks and even shittier coil drivers. I liked my parents 2000 L, it was that 'rare' manual one. It was pretty nice to drive for what it was.
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Jan 19, 2017 03:05
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