|
I am jealous of your paved driveway.  Also all the good jokes are taken so please just make sure you use clean needles when you muscle your DSMs.
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2015 01:16
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 07:16 |
|
|
If you can deal with the fuse being 175 instead iirc mid 90s ford f150s have a nice mega fuse holder and 175 amp mega fuse on the passenger side of the firewall under the hood, two of them actually, connected right to the starter solenoid.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2015 07:23
|
|
|
MikeyTsi posted:A DSM koan for you: I usually hack up a junk harness, jam some wires into the plug, and hook them to a cordless tool battery. 18 volts, 12 volts, what's the difference?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2015 15:44
|
|
|
Wow this harness has been hamfucked by a multitude of idiots who shouldn't ever be permitted to touch automotive electrical systems. My condolences dude, that's gonna be annoying to reverse... at least you can mostly just match up color codes and work from there. Reminds me, I gotta tear the garbage aftermarket alarm out of one of my cars, its disarm switch is A loving DOORBELL BUTTON. DECK SCREWED TO THE INSIDE OF THE ASHTRAY. I don't even know what the gently caress  Best part? The car came with a perfectly good factory alarm originally.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2015 15:55
|
|
|
Don't worry, B5 chassis Audis have two upper balljoints and IIRC either E21 or E28 BMWs have two lowers. You do not suffer alone.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2015 04:04
|
|
|
It is truly ironic that you, in rustfree Washington, are saying that, while I in rotten Massachusetts got both front upper pinch bolts out intact on an 01 A4 with over 200k miles on it.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2015 16:42
|
|
|
Our cars burn for 15 years before they die. It's just a very slow fire and burns more of the metal and less of the paint, rubber, and plastic. Sucks about your new salt-based overlords, I always thought of WA as a rust-free haven for cars that doesn't blast them with radiation until the paint and plastic melt 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2015 19:13
|
|
|
mag chloride isn't typically thought of as "salt" by anyone but chemists and maybe people with BP issues, but I think KCl is the usual salt substitute not MgCl2. However, it's the chlorine atoms that catalyze rusting, so, welp. Magnesium chloride may cause it slower but it should still do the same thing, theoretically. CO's rustfree status probably has more to do with the fact that it's basically a high altitude desert with super low humidity most of the time.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2016 17:54
|
|
|
Is it a waste-spark system? Because I think 1 and 4 would share a coil and so would 2 and 3, that'd explain your two-cylinder misfire neatly.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2017 19:08
|
|
|
Depending on how the coil cassette grounds, it could be a missing bolt holding it to the head as well. Or the primary trigger wire from the ignitor or ECU to the coilpack could be bad for that particular coil - given the condition of the MAP harness, I wouldn't rule that out.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2017 16:57
|
|
|
Guys, start with the low numbered and first listed codes first, that's standard diag and repair procedure. There's a possibility the cat isn't even bad, or will barely pass once the other issues are cleared up. I had P0171, P0301, P0302, and P0420 on my Forester when the coilpack wasn't firing 1 or 2 and all of them went away once I fixed it. I am pretty sure Mikey realizes this, and you're telling him to fix the symptoms rather than the upstream cause first. Also, an injector circuit malfunction and a misfire on the same cylinder sure do point to something, and it aint the cat. My guess, the injector's not firing properly (it's a circuit code - so harness, ECU, or injector electrical issue), or is stuck open (unlikely unless the issue is that the injector driver or harness is shorted to ground, keeping the injector on all the time), resulting in a misfire on that cylinder, which regardless of the fuel trim added will result in unburned oxygen in the #1 exhaust. So the O2 sensor that monitors all 4 cylinders is going to see extra O2 no matter what it does to the fuel trim, and will go full-rich as a result. That could easily cause the catcon monitor O2 sensor to show full-rich, which will trip P0420. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Jan 27, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2017 04:12
|
|
|
It definitely is against EPA rules, but some smaller shadier yards may either not care or not bother removing cats from some cars...
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2017 20:00
|
|
|
Been there. Especially sucks when you don't have money for gas, parts, or insurance, so you feel like there's nothing to do and no point to doing it. Hope poo poo gets better for you soon dude 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2017 15:05
|
|
|
I'll be in the Seattle area from tomorrow morning till next weekend if you want to go junkyarding or need a hand wrenching on stuff.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2018 22:17
|
|
|
MikeyTsi posted:Man, I could definitely use someone to hold me accountable to trying to get this drat thing finished and back on the road. I think we have plans Saturday but not sure, Friday is probably a better bet, but I'm not really in control of the schedule fully here.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2018 23:01
|
|
|
I am really bad at that We might hit up an equipment auction Saturday in the port orchard area, but not sure. Might be around today or tonight? Or tomorrow? Do I have you on Facebook? Messenger is usually the best way to get ahold of me quickly these days.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2018 21:12
|
|
|
Another trick is to buy Milwaukee demo drivers and just use your favorite BFH and the Phillips demo driver to take the rotor screw out. I'm not sure which of these tricks is more unkind to the wheel bearings.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2021 12:47
|
|
|
Where are you again? I'm probably going to be hitting the Tacoma pick n pull and a cars n coffee over there on Sunday, so I'll already be on the right side of the bridge toll to spin by.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2023 23:52
|
|
|
I may or may not also be up your way in the near future to sell a set of wheels and quote a guy on wiring an LS swap he ran out of skill on, I can try and let you know if that happens.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 1, 2024 01:25
|
|
|
What's left to do on it? I might be headed to Renton to do some calibration work this week as well as Tacoma area and I'm probably headed to Olympia and chehalis tomorrow or Saturday, so there's a good chance I can swing by. I know I keep saying this... LS swap guy fell off the face of the planet and wheels guy bailed on our meeting too.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2024 04:35
|
|
|
My plans have gone to poo poo yet again as usual but I hope to be in your area like, sometime this week. Assuming this guy ever answers his messages. I'm not holding my breath. Guessing someone stole your radiator for scrap. I've had a few stolen but luckily they were always the old one leaned on a tree in my driveway waiting for *my* next scrap run, not straight up lifted out of a car I cared about.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2024 03:10
|
|
|
Any time dude! Well, assuming my shitshow of a life doesn't change my plans on a given day anyways. I'm going to be heading down to Centralia for a club event next weekend so at the latest I can take a bunch of pics and video of that donor car then for reference on where all the bolts go. That camera has been incredibly useful over the years. The image quality isn't great but the price was right. The original app by the manufacturer was removed from the play store when they came out with a new model (don't ever buy depstech on Amazon, they literally rugpulled me) but after downloading like 30 random inspection camera apps and trying them all, this other random one worked.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2024 06:44
|
|
|
In my case, one called "USB camera". It's ultra obnoxious with the ad supported nonsense and it's buggy enough I'm not gonna pay for it, but it puts a camera picture on the screen if I fiddle with it enough to convince it to find the camera device. Not sure I'd recommend it really unless you get rugged by your camera maker too. I also don't know if it's malicious or not TBH. It made it so my amateur bunghole inspection camera worked again and that's where I stopped thinking about it. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.shenyaocn.android.usbcamera There are a bunch of these apps and not all of them work with not all cameras.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2024 17:41
|
|
|
Any time dude! The new battery to fuse box wire just arrived and hopefully the rest of the lugs, fuse, fuse socket, and heatshrink for the rest of the B+ wiring will arrive at some point. I think we might have to swap that fuse box in and out another 5 or 6 times, too. You know, just in case.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 29, 2024 13:59
|
|
|
We definitely didn't just have to pull the intercooler and fuse box back out again
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2024 00:17
|
|
|
Yeah, I think everything is here now. I just got back from the Enduro race I was supporting so my schedule is a bit more open now.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2024 04:06
|
|
|
If it were solid copper I would have been mostly ok with it*, but it was copper clad aluminum, and that poo poo just plain sucks as far as I'm concerned. (Though I realize most people don't really care enough about wires to know the difference.) * Most audio enthusiast marketed power cable doesn't really have high temp or chemical rated insulation, but it would have done fine for a couple years even so.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2024 04:28
|
|
|
Elviscat and I dropped by today which is good because step 1 is always remove fuse box, step 2 remove intercooler pipe, and he's better at doing that than me Alternator B+ feed is now run with 2awg welding cable and a 200A AMG fuse:  Left to right, alt B+ feed, main PDC feed (4x 8awg), starter feed:  Mitsubishi ran dual 5mm² feeds to each of two input lugs on their PDC, I upgraded it to dual 10mm² feeds to each:  All areas where the sealant on the dual wall heatshrink wouldn't suffice were supplemented with high temp hotmelt prior to heatshrink, including between wires and on open ends of ring lugs:  The chassis and block battery grounds were in sorry shape too so they got redone with welding cable as well:  A long obsolete BHPH immobilizer tracking unit was excised as well (it was the second one to be installed on this car in the last 25 years, based on some forensic wire-fuckery)  The clutch hydraulic system was completed (still needed the reservoir flushed and reinstalled) and filled and we attempted to bleed it but it did fuckall, going to need a power or vacuum bleeder for sure Also reconnected approximately 75% of the cubic mile of vacuum lines We got it to the point of being ready to try running the fuel pump to drain the old gas out of it, discovered what looked like a mud dauber nest in the fuel rail that's been bolted closed since like 2015 (  ), the pump wouldn't come on at all, at that point called it quits because it's time to order parts and wait for a sunnier warmer day sometime this week
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2024 07:37
|
|
|
It's way easier to just try and do a 4 or 6 hand job with 2 hands obviously
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2024 19:11
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 07:16 |
|
|
kastein posted:Wow this harness has been hamfucked by a multitude of idiots who shouldn't ever be permitted to touch automotive electrical systems. My condolences dude, that's gonna be annoying to reverse... at least you can mostly just match up color codes and work from there. One, I didn't realize I got in on the ground floor on this thread Two, I didn't realize I was talking to future-me here but yeah this car has had at least 2 BHPH immobilizers installed in it in the past and that part of the harness fuckery has now been excised as of my last few posts Three, I know what's wrong with it, it ain't got no gas in it!
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2024 04:06
|
|