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In junkyards, I've talked the people working there into hooking up a jumper box to the car so I can move seats/pop the trunk/etc. Just hook up a battery and make sure anything starter/alternator/thick wire related is very well insulated? If too much wiring has been removed to do that, you might try feeding the fusebox directly from the positive terminal of a battery using jumper cables (negative to the body), just be drat careful. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 08:11
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That last pic is some kind of rheostat. Probably to adjust the level going to a  sub amp, one with line level inputs (judging by all the speaker wire, the plain regular wire going to the rheostat, the lack of any RCAs in sight, and the blue wire [typically used to turn on an amp] being connected to.. something).I've seen (and in my teen years, done) worse wiring, but that's still special. If an adapter harness was used (assuming from the wire colors, it looks like they did use one), it looks like they at least started out trying to keep it neat. And it just kind of grew into a mess as they added on to the system. e: okay, looks like that adapter harness has been through more than a few stereos/cars, if one was even used.  That's butchered to hell. Shouldn't be too bad to fix though, get a junkyard (or Metra) pigtail and some crimps. Hell, you can probably cut out the harness from your old car and use that (cut at least 6 inches more than you think you'll need, preferably at least a foot), assuming you didn't do the same things to it.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 09:51
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PO got it from a buy here pay here lot. They often install a device that either lets them remotely disable the car or requires a new code to be entered every couple of weeks (and sometimes includes a GPS tracker, making their repo much easier). Either way, they usually just abandon them in place once the car is paid off.
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Jul 2, 2015 09:08
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My dad owned not one, but two of them. IIRC, an 88, followed by an 89. I've wanted one ever since. 
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Nov 7, 2015 11:18
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Left Ventricle posted:Ecotec engines are coil-on-plug. Depends. 07+ in the case of the 2.2, 06 and older are waste spark. The one he's working on is an early 2.2, 02 at the newest. I think most of the other Ecotec family was coil on plug, but I'm not positive. The 2.2 was the base engine in most cars it was sold in. kastein posted:Is it a waste-spark system? Because I think 1 and 4 would share a coil and so would 2 and 3, that'd explain your two-cylinder misfire neatly. We have a winner. 1-4 and 2-3 share coils on the L61. It could also be a bad ignition module, but I've had a coil poo poo itself on mine once. And my car has the same engine, just with a DBW throttle body and no power steering pump. You'll probably have to swap the ignition cassette. You can't buy the coils individually (you can rip them apart from a junkyard cassette, but it's a PITA), just get the whole thing. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 07:09
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I can definitely tell you that  spark plug spacers does the trick to eliminate good ol' P0420 on your L61 Ecotec that definitely never sees any use on public roads. You need a 90 degree one,. though.Only something to worry about if you have to do emissions testing for your non-public roads, or get tired of the CEL.
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Jan 26, 2017 07:25
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Well yeah. The cat costs a few hundred on rockauto. It's a complete downpipe assembly, of course. The design looks like you'd be able to cut it out and weld in a universal one, so you could probably knock it down to $100 (or less) if you got a cat yourself and found an exhaust shop that would install it.
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Jan 27, 2017 02:24
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True enough. He did say they've already swapped the injector harness, so I'm assuming the misfire and injector codes are historical codes at this point. No way to know 100% until they clear the codes and drive it a bit, though. FWIW, the cat they put behind the same engine in my car took a poo poo around 85k.
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Jan 27, 2017 06:24
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Yeah, a cat is worth a decent chunk. Anywhere from $10-150 for an OEM cat.MikeyTsi posted:The smoke weed erry day code came back this evening, so either the old exhaust gasket poo poo the bed and I need to replace it with the one from the really expensive rebuild set I bought at Napa, or the cat decided to poo poo the bed from all the misfiring and fuel I've apparently been dumping in to it. I've been considering seeing if I can get one from a yard. At least on my car, they put an itty bitty cat on, and I started getting  codes before 100k. It would come and go up until about 120k.Rockauto (and aftermarket catalytic converter manufacturers) claim I'm supposed to have 2 cats on my car, so either someone's replaced it with the automatic downpipe (which has 1 cat instead of 2), something got mixed up on the assembly line, or Rockauto and all of the 3rd party catalytic converter companies are full of lies. Or for some reason it got replaced in the past, but when I got the car it only had 60k, so that's a bit unlikely (also it's as rusty as the rest of the exhaust). No loving clue why the manual transmission version of my car is supposed to have 2 cats. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Jan 28, 2017 |
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Jan 28, 2017 07:57
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I know a lot of other L61 cars had enough issues with the fuel pump that GM put out an "enhanced warranty" on them (for the life of the car). I think it mostly applies to Delta platform cars, but it's worth checking into. The main issue was the pump fittings cracking. I had it happen on my Ion about 2 1/2 years ago. Probably not what (completely) happened here, but if you were starting to smell fuel while it was parked, you may want to look into that. There's a recall for the ignition module on the L series too (GM recall # 03033). If it's like the ignition module in the 2006 L61, the ignition module is responsible for detecting cam position (it uses compression sense instead of a CPS). I'm not sure if it'll fire the injectors or not if the ignition module fails.
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Jun 13, 2017 03:43
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Gotcha. Thought I'd throw that out there in case you had started smelling gas, figured it might have the possibility to turn into a "get a new fuel pump free" card.  Mine had gone from "fuel pump in a closed system" to "lawn sprinkler that happens to spray gas", and GM wound up paying for it.
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Jun 13, 2017 04:23
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My 06 Saturn doesn't have ABS.  I don't think it was commonly optioned on the Ionrys or Cobalts; it was standard on almost all of the USDM GM lineup from the mid 80s until the 2003 model year, then it became an option on the lower end cars. If the shop has access to a Verus, Tech2, etc, they can figure out what's wrong with the ABS in a few minutes. Betting they don't, though. I have access to a Verus via a friend, it came in handy to figure out what the persistent body code is on my car (car is pissy about the factory radio not being there). Pretty sweet tool, but eye wateringly expensive.
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Aug 6, 2017 03:23
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Oh god, yeah, don't blame you one bit, especially since they were just in the area that the wiring was in. If you had access to a scope you could check the sensor, but that's not something most people have easy access to. Best you can really do is check the circuit from end to end, but even that's gonna require a meter with long as hell probes (and probably more time than just throwing a new sub harness at it).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Aug 6, 2017 |
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Aug 6, 2017 09:34
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His has the Ecotec 2.2 L61 (same engine I have). Some are unicorns and never use or leak much (which seems to be the case with mine), some try to imitate the 1.9. Most of them try to imitate the SS Valez and piss oil everywhere, but not burning much. The earlier L61s also had timing chain issues and will skip timing if you anger them. In his case, I think he had a head swap after a timing incident, and it turned into an oil burner afterwards? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 21:30
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There is. It's called rope. .... not 100% reliable. There's also air chucks made specifically for that, they're meant to connect to shop air and pressurize that cylinder. But again, not 100% reliable.
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Oct 18, 2017 22:37
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MikeyTsi posted:- moved cruise control bullshit from the old car over (dipshit PO removed for "weight savings") This. This right here is the only reason why I love DBW. There's nothing extra except for a couple of switches. I know 90s cars had a lot more stuff for cruise, but it didn't weigh jack poo poo - maybe a few pounds at most? I was the dipshit PO on one car. I yanked out the cruise, AC, and power steering for "weight savings". Turns out ~10 lbs really doesn't do much, who woulda thunk?! Glad to hear there's progress!
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Oct 24, 2019 16:10
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Is the green key light on the dash flashing by chance?
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Mar 30, 2020 13:47
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If you have a big rear end flathead screwdriver, you can sorta screw the pistons back in that way. It's easier to just rent/buy the proper tool though. I was lucky in that I had a 18" long flathead with a huge tip - was able to lay it in the grooves sideways - when I did rears on my Integra. The t-handle doesn't really put enough torque on if there's any hint of rust or if it's been awhile since it got pad slapped. This works with a 3/8 ratchet (if you can wait a day or two, this is cheaper and appears to be exactly the same). And just drill the screw out. It's only there to hold the rotor in place when the car is being assembled, it serves absolutely no purpose afterwards. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:39 on May 2, 2021 |
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May 2, 2021 14:32
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 21:40 |
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Welcome to the sore arm club!
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Jun 2, 2021 02:09
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