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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011

mafoose posted:

I've heard of gears in vdo stuff become anything from goo to dust.

On your 3D printed thing, I thought most 3D printed stuff was not underhood temp rated? Doesn't that stuff melt at 240F or so?

This is a pex/abs mix that starts to glass at around 190 deg C. The blazecut will burst before this melts, though it may distort a bit from heat.

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mafoose
Oct 30, 2006

volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and vulvas and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dongs and volvos and dons and volvos and dogs and volvos and cats and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs
That's awesome! What kind of dimensional tolerance can you hit?

Would you be interested in printing out a few small pieces for me?

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Even though printer manufacturers claim otherwise, I like to think of it as a .1mm three dimensional grid. I mean, I printed some m10x1.25 threading that worked fine, but anything smaller and I like to run a tap through it.

Shoot me the files (either PM a link or to klintor unt gmail) and I'll see what they print up to.

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Sep 8, 2015

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Today I did the passenger side pushrod tube seals. While after doing the driver's side ones the puddle disappeared, I still had some small oil spots on the rear of the bus after 30 miles of cruising or so. Also, what kind of person only does half of any seal replacement job and calls it good (except for the PO).


Not many pictures from the replacement itself, but here's a picture I fumbled of the underside whilst cleaning up and having oily gloves on:



Here's a picture of the new tubes in. Yes, the rearmost one's o-ring is a bit pinched. I'm hoping it really doesn't matter because it's up top, and because I didn't notice until just now when uploading the picture:



Here's the crud from just the passenger side pushrod tubes, and nothing else. The driver's side ones weren't nearly this bad:




The frontmost three pushrod tubes were dented to hell and back, and I'm half thinking they were leaking from being so off-angle. I found a box wrench that fit the inside diameter nicely, and I used that to roughly straighten out the dents from the inside by pushing it through at all angles and twisting it back and forth. Then I found a socket that was nearly the right size OD (13mm deepwell 3/8", if you want to know) and hammered it through with a few 6" extensions to finish straightening them out.

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Sep 9, 2015

mafoose
Oct 30, 2006

volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and vulvas and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dongs and volvos and dons and volvos and dogs and volvos and cats and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs

Geirskogul posted:

Even though printer manufacturers claim otherwise, I like to think of it as a .1mm three dimensional grid. I mean, I printed some m10x1.25 threading that worked fine, but anything smaller and I like to run a tap through it.

Shoot me the files (either PM a link or to klintor unt gmail) and I'll see what they print up to.

Cool. I have to modify it because I designed it with machining in mind. It's just a little adapter for a hall effect sensor. The sensor is rated to 240F so it should fail before the printed part.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Send me whatever you have (obj, sldprt, whatevs) and I can try to work with it. I have Fusion 360 and Solidworks.


Update: the bus now has retracting seatbelts! Turns out you can modify, say, a spare retractable seatbelt for the Beetle to use with the bus, and even retain the pendulum clutch. So much better than dangling seatbelts.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
So, as the pictures show earlier, the ABS door panels I ordered have rectangular holes near the latch for the ineffectual door vents VW originally had installed.



My initial plan was to source some new vent covers and sliding plates, but the passenger door of the bus is not original, and has no provisions for the vents inside. Instead of finding a new door, or living with one door having vents, or having to source unobtanium plastic trim pieces, I decided to take the matter into my own hands. Take the replacement door panels below:



Add calipers:



Then way too much time in Solidworks:



Add equal amounts time in Simplify3D to position the part and set up support while balancing weight and printer constraints:



And I end up with a door vent cover that screws right in!











Now, this one is a bit squirrelly, because the printer towers have loosened up a tiny bit over the past 20 days of printing or so since my last overhaul, so the layers shifted maybe .10mm back and forth a bit as it got higher and higher. On this one, I will sand the surfaces down (I made the walls quite thick, 4 layers at .48mm/layer). On the second one, which is printing right now, I tightened up the towers, so hopefully sanding will be a little more minimal. I will probably leave these as-is for color, though I can always spray them with some Krylon Fusion if I want to change them. Overall, I'm pretty happy.

Cost-wise, each print is .50 pounds, and I pay about $17/kg in plastic. Unfortunately about 40% of the weight in plastic is support material, which is plain wasted, but what do you do :shrug:. This particular roll was 2kg instead of 1kg of filament, and was only $20, which probably explains why it was such a paint to print with. Figured I may as well waste it on something like this instead of plastic trinkets.

rscott
Dec 10, 2009
You can't recycle any of that plastic? Seems like a major problem with 3d printing large scale.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
I've seen a few homebrewed rigs to melt down plastic and turn it into filament but I'm going to guess that with the risk of contamination it's probably a better idea to just buy new filament in the long run. :(

Vents look awesome.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I would consider making some sort of an adjustable table that can be used as a base for printing on instead of having to basically print the thing every time, wasting filament.

3D printing still seems like a toy to me (it can't do most of the things I'd want to do, sadly) but it takes early adopters to iron out the bugs, and is definitely great for stuff like what you're making now.

Also, congrats on your mostly leak free ACVW. You know it's going to spring another leak now just to spite you, right? :v:

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
It's only because the printer I have has an 11 inch round plate, instead of a large square table. I chose available height to print over base size. Some newer printers could have done it flat, and I could have if I split the part up.

Mr-Spain
Aug 27, 2003

Bullshit... you can be mine.
Was that too long to print flat on it's face?

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Yeah it's 290mm long.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Also, a few days ago I got my hands on a file, and modified it for printing. Babby's first printed threads.

:siren: I HATE TABLES ALMOST AS MUCH AS I HATE OIL LEAKS :siren:


Somebody fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Sep 11, 2015

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

You need a lot of glow in the dark filament. And a new choke handle. And dash.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Sorry for the absolute poo poo pictures, but I installed the vent covers today. I was originally going to screw them in from the front with speednuts, but decided to remove the panel and do hidden screws from behind. If I don't like it I can always spend $5 + electricity for two days to print some more.







I didn't sand these or anything, and the driver's door vent hole is longer than the passenger one that I used to measure it, so there's this gap. Let's call these "Draft 1."

I'm thinking for the second printed set I could use some translucent red and put lights in them, maybe.

Timmy Cruise
Jun 9, 2007
Nice work. I love that you're making parts with the printer.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
I was gonna comment on the blog but can't remember the magic combination of logins I did to get it to work last time.

You could probably build some kind of shim that would compensate for the oversized hole in the door, or worst case just nail a scrap of plywood there to shore it up.

Looks good. I would make version two like a smokey translucent charcoal grey plastic and use it as an accent instead of an eyecatcher.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Original plan was to print these as tests for printer stability and part strength, then if they worked to paint them with Krylon Fusion plastic dye-paint. But after this I think maybe either translucent black like you said (they were originally going to be that, but a failed print used up too much to make two of them with the leftover filament) or translucent red with lights so they light up when you open the doors.

I'm going to edit the final versions so they don't have holes for the "vents" anymore but instead just get thin there. I'll also add some LED or LED tape mounting spots on the backside now that I know the clearance inside the door to make things easier.

And yeah, the wordpress site is kind of poo poo (I just run forum posts through a BBcode to HTML converter and paste them over), but it's public for friends and stuff. I'd make a thread on TheSamba, but the guys there are all super purists that are really condescending and just tell you to "search for a previous thread" when you ask a question even though their search function is broken as poo poo for anything other than the classified sales listings. gently caress those guys (but I'm thankful it exists for knowledge).

A link to the part, where you can select the version and spin it around and poo poo: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1005326

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Sep 16, 2015

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Huh, turns out all I needed to do to solve my oil pressure problems was change the oil filter that had a 2009 date code stamped on it. Who knew? :shrug:

Bonus! The old filter contained free glitter!

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Today, this:



Went into here:



Up at the front, behind the driver's kick panel:



I did have to make a crossover, and I'm not happy about it:



Back into the engine bay:


(notice: brass tees on all vacuum and fuel lines. gently caress that cheap plastic poo poo, brass or glass ball nylon motherfuckers)


Also, I found some old LED lights kicking around, and I also had a NC relay on hand, and that gave me an idea. A bad idea, but still an idea.



Those are on the fresh air flaps, and are bolted in, not just double-stick taped to there. I don't really have any idea why, but it was easily doable, and is wired up so the running lights have to be off for them to be on, so if I accidentally leave them on they'll turn off when I turn the lights on to drive. Even through the mesh, they throw out a lot of light forwards, and I can blink them with the fresh air flap lever. They're wired through the relay to the second battery, so maybe camping/area lighting without risking the engine battery. :shrug: x2

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Sep 17, 2015

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009

Terrible Robot posted:

I saw a Westfalia the other day with 944 wheels and a subaru swap of some kind. I've never seen a VW bus move like that.

A 4x4 square bus with a Porsche or Subaru motor is the only VW bus that I would ever consider owning, just because of the hysterically contradictory nature of such a vehicle. I don't really "get" the VW bus, but they're weird and cleverly made and so quite enjoyable to see worked on. (Or is that just it? Weird and cleverly made does have an appeal -I drive a SAAB, it's fun to be different. I guess it's the "Cult of the Bus" that I just don't get.)

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
I am addicted to making things for the bus.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
After removing the door vent channels slash armrests, all of the fresh air was coming out of the lower vents. Instead of capping them off, I designed and printed some covers that direct a little air upwards, but create enough backpressure to allow the dashboard vents to work.





Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Ahaha my rear left wheel cylinder exploded. Like, it's parked right now with a big brake fluid puddle under the rear left wheel.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Installed the air vents:


Replaced the wheel cylinder:

(pre-replacement)

Funny how there's fresh springs and hardware in there, but the OG cylinder. gently caress you, PO. I only did the driver's side, though, because I don't have enough brake fluid on hand to refill whatever I spill and bleed doing the other wheel.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Sorry that this is such a slow thread, compared to others here. Big mechanical fixes are few and far between - my goal is generally to get it to a reliable driving state and then faff about with small bits and bobs until I fall into money or get really bored, so the three people that read this thread are going to see a lot of things like the following:


The victim:



The facehugger addition:

(with clips of my own design)

Basic template:


Installed:


And (really blurry) angle pic:


Just that little chromed plastic piece really makes the entire front of the bus. It's uncanny.

The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





Might actually be four of us! I read it, just don't have anything to add really, having never owned anything like this, but it's quite interesting what you are doing. I especially like how you are 3D printing lots of bits for the bus.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


I'm sticking around for 3d printed stuff and because old VW busses are awesome. Don't worry about the slow progress, it's faster than all of my projects.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
I think old buses are pretty cool but I don't know poo poo about them. Hence my lack of comments.

You seem to be making more progress than I am!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





NitroSpazzz posted:

I'm sticking around for 3d printed stuff and because old VW busses are awesome. Don't worry about the slow progress, it's faster than all of my projects.

I was going to say the same thing, your bus is currently moving faster than my C10 :v:

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Having some fun at work.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
I like this thread a lot actually, I just rarely have much to say. The 3D printed parts are awesome as hell and makes me want one even more. It is pretty crazy how much better the front emblem makes those old buses look, they seriously look naked without it.


Geirskogul posted:



Having some fun at work.

legit lol'd

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

Geirskogul posted:



Having some fun at work.

Patients are stabilized on scene but die of old age in transport.

Superuser008
Feb 7, 2011

Geirskogul posted:



Having some fun at work.

All you need is one of those magnet-mount old style rotating red lights and you're all set.

Naked Bear
Apr 15, 2007

Boners was recorded before a studio audience that was alive!

Superuser008 posted:

All you need is one of those magnet-mount old style rotating red lights and you're all set.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wND357avYJk

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Count another reader. One of these days I'll have a project thread. Right now I just fix various things on various cars. I just throw that random crap on various appropriate threads.
3D printing is boss. I need to get one of those things. Your jack stands are still holding up several of my die cast cars.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
(Sorry about purple, HTC One M7, y'know)

Today my LED 12v bulbs came in.


(the black wire is the positive, and the white the ground. On all 20 of them)

Redesigned cover:


A little bigger than the prototypes:


Bulb installed. Pretty good for measurements estimated from an eBay listing page:




Sorry about the purple, but the installed oil pressure sender with idiot light poles. Yeah, I chewed up the engine tin a bit to get it to fit, but after this picture I bent back down the metal and dremeled the sharp edges off, and it seals pretty well. Well, as good as it did before. :shrug:


Since the distributor was out, I decided to take it apart:


And install this thing that's been rattling around on the floor for a few months now:


Fast forward about 30 minutes, and I have a properly shimmed and installed electronic ignition kit. Remember that the rotor has to be shortened about 4-5mm for it to sit properly on the rotor key:



Idling:


Revving as high as I dare in neutral, about 3.5k or so?


I guess this is a good thing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coPkY5zkGXU

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Geirskogul posted:


(the black wire is the positive, and the white the ground. On all 20 of them)

That's correct for household AC, so maybe whoever specced it wasn't thinking of the right application. It's not completely random, though.

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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Just one picture today because seriously my camera is terrible, but I installed the door lights:



The way the bus is wired up, if the passenger door opens, the passenger one lights. If the driver's door opens, both the driver's door and passenger door lights. The passenger door switch switches ground to the dome light, whereas the driver's door switches positive for both the dome light and for the dash buzzer (buzzes if the key is in and the door is on).


E: turns out I wired the driver's side to the ground side of the piezo buzzer, so it works until I stick the key in and the buzzer goes off, then the LED goes out. Whatever :shrug:

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Sep 30, 2015

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