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Now, the cupholder I have seems to have been designed for an older time, when cups were a reasonable size and didn't hold more than 24 oz of liquid. However, this is TYOOL 2015 and if you're not driving around with a QT/Chevron/7-Eleven 64 ounce beverage of your choosing, then you're not American. This presented a problem, but again, cheap ABS plastic comes to the rescue. The hole in the bottom of the cupholder is too small to nicely hold any large cups, and I don't have any hole saws big enough to enlarge it:  So, I did what any sane person would do, and break out the calipers:  Yes, I made a custom-fit adapter. Works on both cans, tallboys, and those large Circle-K/QT cups:  With locating pegs so it doesn't spin around:  The white stuff on the rim is ABS glue used to stick the print to the bed. I can either scrape it off, or leave it as-is. Meh.  As a bonus, they're removable and washable.
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Oct 14, 2015 20:07
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I would kill for a car that came with cupholders sized perfectly for a Nalgene. I have one of those in my car 365 days a year, sodas/fast food cups/beers/anything else 0 days a year.
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Oct 14, 2015 21:07
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kastein posted:I would kill for a car that came with cupholders sized perfectly for a Nalgene. I have one of those in my car 365 days a year, sodas/fast food cups/beers/anything else 0 days a year. Why don't you just get one of those spring-loaded brackets for a fire extinguisher or some poo poo and bolt it to the door?
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Oct 14, 2015 21:16
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How big around is a standard Nalgene? The hole in my cupholder (with the pinchwelt) is 107mm in diameter, and the distance from the top edge of the pinchwelt to the top edge of the middle plate is 75mm.
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Oct 14, 2015 21:19
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Appears to be 3.65" / 93mm. I might have to look into the fire extinguisher idea 
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Oct 14, 2015 21:34
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Welp, TheSamba is a terrible forum and I'm already getting PMs and replies telling me how I'm terrible and why don't I own <insert special tool> to polish the oil cooler flange to a mirror finish because if it isn't PERFECT the oil WILL LEAK OUT LISTEN TO US OLD TIMERS YOU'RE A KID AND YOU NEED TO SLOW DOWN YOU DON'T KNOW THESE ARE SPECIAL VEHICLES So, I'm just going to stop updating there and delete my poo poo from there probably. I'm all for help and criticism, but it's got to be constructive, not "you're doing it wrong I would think before you posted more updates like this" PMs.
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Oct 14, 2015 22:25
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If it does continue to leak, how much of a pain would it be to convert it to any of the generic coolers out there that manage not to leak without *special tool here*? Rubber lines / clamps, AN fittings, whatever.
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Oct 14, 2015 22:31
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I have two different oil coolers sitting here. One, a big 15 row -10 AN cooler with honking electric fan that I originally bought for the bug but it is seriously too big to place anywhere on it, and the other one of those long, thin tube and fin transmission coolers (about 3-3.5 feet long, cross section is a 4x4 inch square, designed to run across laterally behind a big truck's grille or something). To install it I assume I'd just get one of those oil cooler blanking/external cooler plate adapters and just run the hoses out to wherever. The way the bus mounts the cooler, only 3/4 of the finned are is sealed to the tins with a big rubber grommet, and the rest of the cooler sticks out the side, leaving plenty of gap to run hoses out to wherever. You can see it here:  And the hot air just dumps out below. Plenty of room. The only issue I run into is that it seems nobody ever converts the stock cooler to an external one, they just add an external cooler somewhere using some sort of full-flow mod where they drill the case, or using a sandwich plate on the oil filter. I myself was planning on using the sandwich plate if the bus ran too hot, utilizing the bigass 15-row cooler mentioned earlier. I find oil cooler relocation plates, but only for the beetle, not the bus. I have a hunch the mount is the same for the bus's oil cooler and the beetle "doghouse" style cooler, as the seals are the same P/N and VW played Lego with their machinery during that era, but I can't be too sure. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 23:18
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Geirskogul posted:Welp, TheSamba is a terrible forum and I'm already getting PMs and replies telling me how I'm terrible and why don't I own <insert special tool> to polish the oil cooler flange to a mirror finish because if it isn't PERFECT the oil WILL LEAK OUT LISTEN TO US OLD TIMERS YOU'RE A KID AND YOU NEED TO SLOW DOWN YOU DON'T KNOW THESE ARE SPECIAL VEHICLES Yeah, the surface finish was atrocious, lots of leak paths. If the goop works it'll probably have a few leaks sometime/years down the road. That being said they are straight up douchebags for acting like that, a public forum should be just that, a Forum. If it's bad it could be fixed with a file and some new seals. Who knows, you posting your experiences might actually help the "poor, impressionable readers" that they are so trying to protect. That being said, they are just old car men, they are used to a different culture and they freely express opinions like that at every opportunity in a bizarrely personal manner. It's the same way on the Corvair forums and several other places the old hands congregate.
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Oct 15, 2015 03:31
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That was the reason I copied everything over to TheSamba: to maybe help people down the road, and inject a tiny bit of humor into their dry, dry forum, as google loves it for showing in search results for VW problems. I think my tone isn't appreciated over there. For instance, I defended myself in one of the PMs by saying that this bus has clearly been Dukes of Hazzard'd at some point and somebody got it stuck on a rock or something, so the frame isn't exactly straight all around, and the frame runners in the rear are all crushed. It has also been tapped from behind, and I discovered while installing the interior panels in the rear quarter that the passenger side is both 100% bondo from the bumper up to the window, and 1/3 inch shorter than the driver's side. So, the bus will never really be worth too much, and has already lived a very rough life through either five crazy owners or one batshit owner with a welder. Therefore, all I'm trying to do is make a mechanically reliable daily driver that is a hodgepodge of the things I most like about the bus eg: weekender seating configuration, but Westfalia jalousie windows, with interior "party" lighting for fun bar runs with friends. But it will never be perfect. He responded by saying that if I'm not going to restore it to "show finish," which from what I gather he really meant "concours finish," then I should just give up now and sell it to somebody who "knows what they're doing." gently caress that guy and gently caress TheSamba for harboring that attitude. If it were a one-off I'd understand, but this has been from multiple people throughout both my thread there, and through asking questions in other threads. Seriously, in my thread, there are like maybe three people that have expressed humor in it, but 7 different people PMing me about how wrong I am.
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Oct 15, 2015 04:13
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Geirskogul posted:That was the reason I copied everything over to TheSamba: to maybe help people down the road, and inject a tiny bit of humor into their dry, dry forum, as google loves it for showing in search results for VW problems. I think my tone isn't appreciated over there. Holy poo poo, gently caress that place. God forbid you drive a car because it brings you joy.
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Oct 15, 2015 04:19
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You guys don't understand, this random Volkswagen is the most essential historical artifact of our time and it must be recreated exactly as it was made.
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Oct 15, 2015 04:25
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You should probably take a video of you scratching some super rare part on it while staring at the camera and flipping it off, and then link it to anyone who PMs you nonsense like that. gently caress that kind of attitude, it's your drat car and it's not even close to a good example, just a beater survivor. You can't save em all.
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Oct 15, 2015 04:26
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Hah unfortunately all of the rare stuff I have made models for and just printed. Maybe if I come across some rare refrigerator or sink unit or something I'll make a video of setting it on fire. This makes me think about how I have that one brand new (it still had plastic cling on it) half-moon hubcap and three lovely ones. I plan on painting them all a silverish finish (whatever I do the bumpers with) so maybe when I get to the step-by-step of prepping them I'll use the chrome one in the "now I sand the surface so paint will adhere" photo. In lovely condition each goes for $25-50 but in brand new condition ebay shows between $80-120 apiece.
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Oct 15, 2015 04:41
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I'll buy you a can of Duplicolor Effex you can spray on it after you sandblast off the Superior Reich Chrome in order to paint it hot pink.
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Oct 15, 2015 04:44
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Oh man is that the color shifting stuff? You know, I may do it. I forgot to post about the most arduous part of my oil cooler install tale. You see, the early (mine is early, second year it was made) Type 4 engine has a two-piece dipstick tube. Part of the tube is press-fit into the outermost (rearmost) fan shroud, as you can see here:  When you put the outermost shroud on, you have to thread this tube through the inner shroud. The tube sticking out the back goes through the hole here, on the RH side, right below the 2 inch hole near the middle (that cools the alternator):  The tubes don't meet, exactly:  So, VW came up with this boot:  To bridge the gap:  This means that, when you're installing the outermost shroud, you not only have to thread the tube through the hole, but into the end of that loving boot. Then, you have to crawl under the engine, and use an awl or flathead screwdriver or something tiny to pull the boot up the tube, as it is assuredly compressed down near the end This is a terrible loving design, and after a few removals, even with a brand new boot, I accidentally tore the end off of mine. The tiny end, that sticks up and you have to thread the tube through. So, to remedy this without having to buy a special loving part and wait a week for it to arrive, I used some of this tubing that I already had on hand, and cut a roughly 2.5 inch piece. This tubing, 7mm ID, perfectly fits tightly-but-not-too-tightly on the outside of the dipstick tube, as well as tightly inside the "wide" part of the boot. I augmented the fitment with three O-rings, as my MSpaint picture below shows:  The blue is the tubing, the orange is the engine filler side funnel shaped tube that the boot goes over. The black are the O-rings. The image should have the blue tube all the way inside the orange funnel tube, but that looked complicated, and MSpaint made it even worse. Apparently, 2.5 inchesish is the perfect length to both wedge the blue tube inside the funnel-shaped engine port, and go right back up against the fan shroud. So, all together, it looks like this:  This wedges the tube in the funnel of the oil filler, and against the back of the fan shroud, without bending it. This is a very common area for buses to leak oil, as the filler tube has all of the pressure the rest of the oil tank/crank has, and all that keeps it in is that stupid little rubber boot. A lot of people resort to teeny tiny zip ties to seal that off, but I think my O-ring-and-tube solution, utilizing the boot mainly only as a way to hold the tubing centrally, is the best solution I have seen. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Oct 15, 2015 |
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Oct 15, 2015 07:47
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I have a set of the ambulance fans for a bus, pretty rare. The rage I could get if I just made a video of me peeing on them...
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Oct 16, 2015 02:40
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Those are really rare, holy crap. http://m.imgur.com/a/NF14j The way today ended. Posted in gen chat with more info.
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Oct 16, 2015 04:17
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Well, the oil pressure is worse than ever before, and it now smokes on deceleration.
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Oct 18, 2015 23:26
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Changed the watery oil for fresh oil Rotella T 15W-40 and a pint of STP high mileage. Pressure is better, no smoke from tailpipe.
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Oct 19, 2015 02:28
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3800 time yet?
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Oct 19, 2015 19:18
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Not just yet. I just got back from driving the bus home after a 3-day weekend of work on it. So, I have a running type 4 engine, and even though the oil pressure kind of shits the bed after driving a while and then idling (like, coming up to a stop it drops to near 0, but then I can blip the throttle a bit and it'll stick around 5 psi or so after that) it does run and function, and that has to be worth something to somebody. Maybe I'll draw up an ad on TheSamba's classifieds, to attract more eyes than the local craigslist. I'm hoping to trade it straight up for a running 1600DP if possible, but we'll see. I'm uploading photos right now of the weekend. We did accomplish a lot. What we didn't accomplish, though, was finding the original oil leak 
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Oct 19, 2015 21:49
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Here you go getting me reading engine rebuild threads for an engine I will never use. Edit: These Samba fucks are intolerable. Lots of angry shouting of opinions with no backing, cults of personality, the whole shebang. Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Oct 19, 2015 |
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Oct 19, 2015 22:33
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Okay, so this ordeal started with me trying to take the bus to work. As a preface, I know the bus had a stock 2.5PSI oil pressure sender, and the replacement VDO 360009 pressure sender has a 6.5 psi oil light trigger, as well as the gauge pole. As I drove to work, I decided to take the freeway, just to "test" the bus. Well, the bus failed, as about ten miles into the drive I noticed that the oil pressure, even when revving, was quite low, maybe 20 psi or so max. So, I pulled over into an offramp and side street and checked the oil level. From what I could see, the stick was nearly dry. So, I dumped in about 3 quarts of oil. This was, however, too much, as I guess the bus takes 2.78 quarts from empty. Checking the stick, it was a little over full. "No big deal," I thought to myself, and started the drive back home to swap out for the beetle to finish my drive to work. (Side note: after any work where I open the engine, like the oil cooler replacement I did in the last few posts, I leave for work about 1.5 hours early. It's only an 18 mile drive, but it can take 45 minutes over surface streets, and I want a buffer zone in case this exact scenario happens) After starting the bus back up and rolling out to surface streets to go home, it started smoking badly. Really badly. So badly that somebody called the fire department on me. I pulled over thinking that the fire truck was passing, but it turns out they were waiting for me to stop so they could put out what they thought was a fire. I can't really describe how thick the white smoke was; on the freeway (I tried to hop on the 143 north to skip a few miles of surface streets) it clogged up a full 3 lanes of traffic. People who were turning onto the street behind me were pulling over because they couldn't see. Children were crying, women were screaming, and husbands were grabbing their guns, because when I passed it was as if one of the four horsemen of the apocalypse was passing, bring a butt of pestilence and death behind them. That day started off a sunny day. Around noon, it became a butty day in Phoenix, which is rare enough, because...Phoenix. Little does the general populace know that my butts were not from water vapor condensing into rain, but from instead a 1973 VW bus with an overfilled oil pan. I trundled my way back home, and eventually took pictures of the damage:     No good pictures of the engine, but imagine both sides, and the front and back (but not the top) covered in oil. After this, my friend, who lives in the San Tan/Queen Creek valley, offered to let me use his garage for the weekend. He also offered to use his AAA towing plus package to have it towed to his place, so we called AAA. As the gentleman, who was one of the coolest people I have ever met, BTW, loaded the bus, I got to snap some pictures of the real rust problem spots:        Good thing I have replacement panels for most of that. The bus got loaded, and he went on his way:   We saw him on the drive over:    (coolest motherfucker in existence -- rolled his own cigs and everything) And then waited for him to arrive  The bus's home for the following three days:  It took us maybe 90 minutes to drop the engine, which is pretty good for a first time attempt. We didn't have the correct tools, like a motorcycle or flatbed jack, but we made it work.  I'm squinting because I'm staring DIRECTLY INTO THE SUN  Also, Freiberger is right; flip flops are the best mechanic's shoes.     Now, my friend's next door neighbor is one of those guys that makes "custom" choppers and always has some project or another that involves a small-block Chevy engine going on, and he saw us pulling the engine out from under the bus on a piece of plywood. I guess he took pity or something, because he came over and told us to borrow his engine hoist for the night. I'm not one to complain, and I don't own one myself, so...we did.  Now, I'm going to tell you, I spent probably eight hours pulling this thing apart, re-torquing things, and cleaning it up. For all of my life, I COULD NOT find the source of the oil leak. I took off tins, checked bolts, checked seals, and nothing was readily apparent. After staying up until 0300 with it on the hoist, spinning it back and forth, I gave up and reassembled it.   ' I did to things like remove the flywheel and clutch and check the seal, but everything back there was good. The following day, we reinstalled the engine, which was maybe an hour long endeavor. Because we didn't have a flatbed jack, we alternated between jacking the engine up, and hanging it from ratchet straps wrapped around a piece of 2x4 run across the engine access cover. It worked well enough. I don't have any pictures, but what followed was maybe a four-hour-long journey to and from the local O'reilly's store, getting engine oil, checking where leaks were from, and generally just running the engine and checking oil levels before and after to see if they dropped. With the oil I had in there, which had been changed just a week or two prior, the engine smoked really badly out of the tailpipe. We went and changed it for some Rotella T 15w40, along with one of those pints of STP, and nearly all smoking stopped. It still smokes a little bit on deceleration, when the engine is overrunning the carburetor, so I think the rings are fuckered. I shudder to imagine what a compression test would reveal. I mean, this engine brought me down from Portland, but then I proceeded to start it up with a 75% gasoline/oil mixture for a few minutes, then nearly (maybe?) run it out of oil, proceeded by running it with way too much oil and smoking the poo poo out of everybody. A few bad rings and bad bearings are the least the engine could punish me with after such transgressions. But, after all of this, the engine was back in, and I was able to go home. But, we decided to tackle another two-man project, then windshield rust. Bay window buses are notorious for rusting along the bottom of the windshield, as the seal will run water down into that area, and the geometry just allows it to sit there forever. I had a new seal on hand, and an exacto knife, so we pressed ahead. I had seen the rust expansion underneath the rubber seal since I picked this bus up, and thought I would have to cut out and weld in a replacement panel. When we first pulled the windshield, it looked like I had predicted correctly:     However, poking with a screwdriver, and an awl, revealed that the metal was not at all fully porous, and still pretty thick. So, this was just really bad surface rust. I broke out the angle grinder and flap wheels, and went to work:  The sill cleaned up beautifully. It only took maybe 30 minutes to grind all around to ensure that there was no real rust left, so we taped it up in preparation for paint:  I didn't have much paint on hand, but some grey matte weld-through primer seemed good enough. I know that primer generally attracts water, so after it dried, I did my best and waxed the painted area. It's not the greatest solution, but maybe it'll buy me some time.     What followed after this was a nearly two-day long ordeal of getting the Brazilian rubber seal around the window, and then installing the window into the bus. Halfway through we went to the local store and bought some paracord, and soaked the paracord in a lubricant. We then wrapped the cord twice around the rubber seal groove. About an hour total of flat-palm pounding and pulling the windshield into the gap, and we pulled the cord to pull the rubber seal around the metal. Even after that, it took quite a bit of pounding some more to get the windshield fully centered vertically and set into the groove. I don't know if the bus simply isn't the shape it was when it left the factory, of if there was some sort of defect in our windshield or seal, but this was, by far, the most difficult part of anything we did that weekend.     Then, as I said earlier, I drove it home. I just made it back, and am letting the engine cool. I need to get a new foam engine seal, so I ran with the tailgate open slightly to get some air circulation. Without the foam seal, there's maybe a half-inch gap around the engine tins, and hot air gets sucked right back up into the engine, which is not good. Normally even after a run I can grab the dipstick easily, but getting back just now it was a bit too hot to even do that, so it's cooling. E: aaand the pictures are broken? I'll see what's up with that. Seems like an imgur error, in the meantime you can click the picture links. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Oct 19, 2015 |
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Oct 19, 2015 23:11
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I bet anything it was the seal. When I got a new windscreen for the C10 they sent the oldest, grumpiest but best installer they had because I wanted the trim reinstalled. He battled with the first seal for HOURS and gave up. Came back in a week with a different brand seal and it went right in. So is the engine still leaking after all that work?
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Oct 19, 2015 23:59
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Yeah, engine still leaks. I know for a fact it's not the flywheel seal, or the fan seal, or the oil cooler seal (took it off, fukken perfect seal, cleaned and re-installed and it's A-Okay). The majority of the oil appears somewhere ahead or on top of the valve covers, but I'm not sure it's the valve covers themselves. After all of the work, and the drive home, it's mainly the driver's side. Oil appears between the bottom air tin and the exhaust heater box. I took the tin off and the pushrods look okay, but there is a little oil on the tins that shrouds the barrels. I wonder if it's a head base gasket deal.
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Oct 20, 2015 00:45
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Well, it looks like case studs can weep and leak. I'm not sure if the cylinder head studs are through or blind on your engine, I guess they can leak on the 1600DP. Might check there along with base gaskets. Wait, reread your post and it wasn't cylinder jug base gaskets you suspected, whoops!
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Oct 20, 2015 02:48
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Ooh, I forgot to mention, because there are no pictures, but I also put a new remanufactured starter, and a new throwout bearing on there while I had everything out. The clutch disc itself was fine, as well as the pressure plate and springs. But the throwout bearing was a bit gritty, and the starter was showing its age. It could be base gaskets, who know?
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Oct 20, 2015 03:07
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You need to pull it again and run it on an engine stand to see where it's leaking from. Then while it's out get a 3800 
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Oct 20, 2015 19:55
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Geirskogul posted:We saw him on the drive over: Ironwood? I love/hate that stretch of road, everyone drives so loving fast but there's really no room for it. If/when they ever run an alternate freeway from metro Phoenix down towards Coolidge / Florence / Tucson, they need to just upgrade Ironwood for the first part of it. Gotta love an engine that will take all of that and keep on going, though.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:18
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Yeah it's ironwood. Friend lives down there by the O'Reilly's. I looked up a 3800 conversion, but the oil pan would hang pretty low, and the thermal load on the cooling system is more than a 2.2 or 2.5 Subaru, and even those conversions always run the knife's edge on cooling. Still keeping an ear to the ground for a 1600DP.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:34
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Hey, I figured out why my brakes, while way better than they were during the 1600-mile trip down from Portland, were failing under heavy braking.  Collapsing under heavy vacuum.
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Oct 25, 2015 02:48
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Sssssshhh don't tell the people on TheSamba ("Mexican" [really, Brazilian] thermostat adapted for bus use) E: yes that's coat hanger wire.
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Oct 25, 2015 11:44
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Please keep posting that stuff on The Samba, it's wonderful seeing people get worked up over someone keeping an old car on the road.
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Oct 25, 2015 21:45
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Please keep posting that stuff on The Samba, it's wonderful seeing people get worked up over someone keeping an old car on the road. Done. gently caress the haters. Today I went back under to continue to search for the rogue oil leak. Sorry if today is sparse on details, I'm still nursing the finger that I stabbed a few days ago. The tip is completely numb, except for the times it's in terrible pain. Also, through today, I accidentally pulled one of the stitches.    While I was under there, I decided to finally change the gearbox oil. How to remove fill bolt?  Find a bolt with a 17mm head and weld a nut onto it. I took this time to play with the "I / II" and "Min / Max" settings. I think Min/Max is amperage and I / II is voltage, but I'm not sure. There was no manual.      By the end I think I got it dailed in for nut/bolt welding. High amperage, low voltage, low wire speed. Or the nut/bolt simply heated up enough that the shitwelder could actually get some penetration. I'm still having fun with it. Don't know why I have so many pictures of the one bolt though. I also lost my gear oil pump, so whatevs:  If you squirt it fast enough, it goes into the fill port instead of spilling massively along the side of the gearbox Oil that came out had very, very fine consistent bronzeish glitter throughout. So fine it didn't really look like glitter, but more it changed the color of the oil. No big chunks though, and it smelled terrible. I also installed the thermostat. Works just fine. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 02:32
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MIDNIGHT UPDATE I'm pretty sure the leak was coming from (don't shoot me, 14 inch, I know this is basic stuff) the valve cover. I took the valve cover off again for the dozenth time and slapped (another) new gasket on there, but when I put it on I accidentally put it on upside-down. Now, upside-down shouldn't matter, but from the factory they came with the VW logo on the cover itself upside-down, and I put the cover on with the logo rightside-up. Then, while idling the engine yet again to get it hot and check for oil leaks with some tins removed, I noticed oil-smoke coming from the top-middle of the driver's side valve cover in puffs along with engine RPM. This means that there is some deformity or leak in the cover, and previously it was on the bottom side where the oil pools. The bottom rim of the valve cover is hidden by the heater box, and with the way air flows all around the engine, it never appeared to be leaking from one solid spot and instead was flung all over. I think that's fair. Plus, the valve cover is so basic of an issue that I thought it was "beneath me." I mean, I've already replaced the gaskets what else could go wrong it obviously must be something super complicated like the head to barrel joint, right? Occam's razor I guess. So, even more gaskets are on order, and I think I got a fair price on some used valve covers:  Some sanding and paint will make them look nice again, and at least one of them has to be straighter than the one I have. PS: when searching for beetle or bus parts, a dangerously common misspelling to search for is "bettle." Don't know why, but that's how I got my thermostat for $20 instead of the minimum $48 that others are selling for.
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Oct 26, 2015 07:33
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Yeah. If it burns oil on de-celleration, you have worn valve stem seals. That causes lots of blow-by pressure -more pressure than the valve covers/gaskets are designed to handle, so most likely leaking oil from the rocker covers. New/better than OEM gaskets will fix the oil leak, but problem is still there, you need new valve stem seals. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 10:36
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Heh, cloud->butt.
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Oct 26, 2015 12:39
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Geirskogul posted:MIDNIGHT UPDATE You're located in Arizona, right? I'd be curious to try machining the bent valve cover, but I'm in Chicago (also there's a fair chance I'd destroy it).
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Oct 26, 2015 14:49
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Machine a stamped metal cover?
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Oct 26, 2015 22:22
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