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Hm, maybe not. In my mind, you were talking about something more substantial that was warped. Also, once you have a Bridgeport, everything looks like something that needs milling.
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Oct 26, 2015 22:25
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 19:21 |
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While working on the valve covers today, I put some stickers on   
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Oct 31, 2015 01:35
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Listen, the past week has been full of failures and roadside repairs. To sum up in a few words, though, I'd put it like this: gently caress this valve cover design. I hate the loving spring bales. I hate the one-time-use-only cork gaskets. I hate the little tab thing on the valve cover. I hate how difficult it is to keep positioned while pulling the bale up and the overall poo poo design. In the end, I will probably go with one of those aftermarket bolt-on valve covers with the reusable fiber/rubber gaskets. gently caress doing things traditionally and gently caress the "old guard" mentality of every goddamned website and book for these engines. I purchased a good used secondhand set of valve covers, and they arrived covered in RTV sealant and rust. I took a flap disc to them, and painted them because WHY NOT. And before you say anything, I understand that black will shed heat a little faster, but I don't have any black paint on hand and I just wanted to put a protective coat on them.  I only changed the driver's side one, because the passenger side cover isn't leaking. This is the THIRD cover I have tried and I think it's finally sealed. We'll see.
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Nov 1, 2015 03:44
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Geirskogul posted:While working on the valve covers today, I put some stickers on Haha yes, I have that same sticker on (my soon to be mine) 1970.
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Nov 1, 2015 03:48
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GOD DAMMIT it still leaks. I can't find any imperfections on the head surface, either. gently caress IT I'll BUY BOLT-ON VALVE COVERS. Wait, this paycheck I only have a spare $100. Do I buy bolt-on valve covers and drive the bus every day, or do I buy a $100 carburetor to get the beetle to pass emissions (registration expires today) so I have a backup car? Also the BEETLE IS LEAKING FROM SOMEWHERE IN THE TRANSMISSION gently caress
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Nov 1, 2015 05:02
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Can you use the bus carb on the Beetle?
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Nov 1, 2015 05:10
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Nope, dual empi knockoffs on the bus, single on the beetle. Though if there's anybody in the Phoenix area with a known passing carb I could borrow for a day...
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Nov 1, 2015 05:13
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When do you need the carb by? I think I have a stock single port, 31 pict? or whatever it is, in my stash. If I can find it tomorrow you can have it and if the shipping is cheap enough Ill send it for nothing.
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Nov 1, 2015 11:23
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Now that the bus is running I'm not under pressure and probably have a month to play with before the neighbors lose their minds. I'll just park with the back to the wall so they can't see the tag. Any 31 pict would probably work. It passed last year with a 31 pict 1 and it's falling with a 31 pict 3, But it isn't tuned at all, and is a cheap Taiwanese copy so it's all lose and has poorly fitted parts. I was going to buy another cheap pict 1 in hopes it was leaner. If you do that, that would be amazing! I'll shoot some dollars your way on payday (5th) if you find it.
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Nov 1, 2015 16:45
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The bus still leaks a little bit, but so far not too much. I still need to get new valve covers, but first comes the carburetor for the beetle. Gonna drive minimally and use the bus as my daily driver. Perhaps I'll even re-do the enfield's head and base gaskets to see if they clear up it's problem (blowing out all of the oil when it warms up in a few minutes total). Also the beetle left a pretty large puddle the last time I parked it. I can't tell if it's coming from the gearbox or the front (rear) main seal, so I pressure washed the bottom of the engine so the next time I start it up I can hopefully track down the source.
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Nov 3, 2015 22:43
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I'm sick and loving tired of the oil leaks. I got it, after changing gasket after gasket, to a slow seep that makes things smell like hot oil and puts a very fine mist on the rear of the bus. As the beetle is currently out of commission for registration (failed emissions), and I have to drive the bus constantly, this is unacceptable. So, I bought some things to fix it: Some bolt-on valve covers:  that use these style of gasket:  There are generally cheaper EMPI brand bolt on valve covers, but both TheSamba and Porche 914 412 forums (both use the type IV VW engine) state that the EMPI ones are hit or miss, and the CB Performance ones are the way to go. Much more forgiving on gasket mating as well as being thicker and supposedly reducing the "tinny" tap-dance sound of the pushrod tappets. Now, CB Performance has these covers on sale for $75, which is a steal, as even the EMPI ones go for more than $100 on Amazon and similar sites. Since CB Performance, like a lot of VW parts supply warehouses, runs things kind of 'old school,' things like free shipping are out of the question. They charge an actual (and honest, I'll admit) base shipping fee, and adding small parts only increases the fee by like $0.75. Since shipping on the valve covers was like $15 (still less total than an EMPI set), I threw in these two things: An oil temperature gauge:  And the temperature sender:  These are the same parts that I put in my beetle, and I'm super happy with them. The sender goes in the oil return galley plug, so it gets fresh oil from the cooler, and I believe gives a fairly accurate reading on the oil temp that the engine is seeing, as that's the oil that is going to the pump that will go to the valves/cams/crank. That, combined with my oil pressure gauge, gives me a fairly accurate readout of engine health without having to resort to head temp gauges (nice, but really expensive) or a tachometer (not necessary, but also kind of nice to have). And oil temperature gauges are fairly cheap; both cost less than $35 put together, and added less than a dollar to the shipping/handling charge. I'm still working on a solution for the beetle, as I've discovered through old email order searching that the carburetor I put on there is a 34 PICT/3, and the one I took off was either a 28 or 30/31 PICT/3. The much larger carburetor may be the reason I'm failing emissions on Hydrocarbons, as it's just running rich. Now, the plugs looked fine, but a large carburetor is a large carburetor, and they probably only looked fine at the time I did the pull and change (the same day I was trying to run through emissions) because I was also running 40% denatured alcohol. In my defense, I had just gotten the bug, and had no clue that a 34 was too large for the stock 1600DP engine. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Nov 7, 2015 |
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Nov 7, 2015 11:27
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I am really interested in how those valve cover's work for you. After way too much time straightening and sanding and filing and whatnot the valve covers on the type IV in my 914 I still have a small leak.
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Nov 7, 2015 20:52
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Well, the valve covers have shipped, so now we play the waiting game. Also, Fart Pipe combined with my old-parts-hoarding may have saved the Beetle. We'll see when the package comes in. Thanks again, FP! Now, for some pro/cons Con: I have been nickled-and-dimed to death by this bus. Today it's a new reverse light switch, as the one on the tranny now shows 4 megohms of resistance, which is like the resistance of the loving air gap between the terminals. Pro: Along with <insert real gift here>, I now have things to put in santee's box to make it rattle around. Don't think I'll match last year's Thermite and Geiger Counter, but it should still be awesome.
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Nov 10, 2015 00:36
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AND NOW, A BEETLE INTERMISSION Still waiting on the valve covers and carburetor stuff, but on the drive home on Halloween the beetle's brakes finally gave up. I've had a slow leak from the master cylinder for forever, but I totally forgot about it during the deployment, and didn't check the level at all during the past 4 months I've been driving it. The master cylinder finally ran partially empty, and I only had rear brakes for the final mile home. Well, after playing maybe 4 hours solid of Fallout 4, I felt like a shitbag and that I needed to go outside. The beetle was just sitting there, and I have had the parts on hand for nearly a year now, so I guess it was time to crack on. Here is the new master cylinder. Note that I got excited and set it up wrong.  I pulled out the old master. Look at the way it just lays there, looking all innocent 'n poo poo.  Mmmm, all of that mastic the PO put on there to cover up a big rust spot looks just sublime  Now, I never really wondered why the carpet was always wet. I just refused to look    I upgraded the fluid catch reservoir on my vacuum pump. This is an old 3L suction canister from one of our ambulances. We threw all of these away in favor of disposable ones (you'd put a bag inside these then just throw the bag away). It holds an entire bleeding session's worth of brake fluid. Why let a good plexi can go to waste? Even has a built-in gauge.  Blurry-rear end photo of the setup:  Old fluid:   Well, haven't driven it yet*, but the pedal feels rock-solid so far. A lot shorter travel than before, which is also good. And before you VW gurus chime in: yes, I was sure to leave a little play in the acuating rod at the upper end of the travel (drum brakes build pressure between actuations, and without free play they never fully depressurize and will eventually lock up while driving). *I stopped for the day and stopped taking photos, because the fire department showed up to take one of our neighbors. One of those types that lives alone and calls 911 every two months or so.
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Nov 10, 2015 23:50
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The foam engine compartment seal, being OG and brittle, was a casualty of the engine pull I did a few weeks ago. I thought everything would be fine if I ran with the hood popped a little for short-term driving, but afterwards I had the issue with the beetle's emissions test, so I've had to rely on the bus. 18+ miles each way to work, 4 days a week, is a little too much driving to be doing without the compartment seal, as a large portion of the hot air gets pulled back up into the compartment. I looked online at prices for a replacement seal, and...   well gently caress that. In the spirit of, well, my spirit to do things cheaply, I decided to take a cheaper route.  Since it's so cheap, I bought two, in case I hosed one up.   (gloves because touching foam gives me the skeevies real bad) I used my YiHUA $15 soldering station with a flat cutting-style blade to melt the foam apart. Finally a use for that bigass iron tip.  It's nasty, but I'll just put this side on the bottom.  All cut up (blurry)  Will update this post with installation pics in probably like 30 minutes when I come back inside.
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Nov 11, 2015 20:57
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Geirskogul posted:I upgraded the fluid catch reservoir on my vacuum pump. This is an old 3L suction canister from one of our ambulances. We threw all of these away in favor of disposable ones (you'd put a bag inside these then just throw the bag away). It holds an entire bleeding session's worth of brake fluid. Why let a good plexi can go to waste? Even has a built-in gauge. If I hadn't already replaced the lovely Mityvac thing I ran over with the C10, I'd totally go for one of those. That canister looks awesome.
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Nov 11, 2015 21:17
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Got the carby all ready to go but the posty was closed for veterans day. Ill send it out tomorry.
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Nov 11, 2015 21:26
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Fart Pipe posted:Got the carby all ready to go but the posty was closed for veterans day. Ill send it out tomorry. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CX9Z3546Vo Also    Note to future readers (there aren't any future readers): this takes 1.5 packages to get the total length, so buy two packages. Then you also have an extra piece for fuckups, or to patch holes in other parts of the tins.
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Nov 11, 2015 21:55
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Geirskogul posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CX9Z3546Vo Make sure to post that on the Samba for people trying to save money 
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Nov 11, 2015 22:29
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My only regret is that the hilarious criticism happens over PMs. These old farts are too afraid to be truly nasty in public, kind of like the post-middle-age American populace at large. E: VVVVVV You mean $10  (I know what you said, deliberate misinterpretation) EDIT 2: DUCK (tm) brand is owned by the Henkel Group, a German multinational. Therefore, this foam seal is a Genuine German Product (tm) and should appease TheSamba posters. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 22:31
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Oh man, $35 for an engine tin perimeter seal. Those bastards go for like $110 on a Corvair.
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Nov 11, 2015 22:44
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Geirskogul posted:My only regret is that the hilarious criticism happens over PMs. These old farts are too afraid to be truly nasty in public, kind of like the post-middle-age American populace at large. drat. I wish I could see the butthurt. Fuckin' greybeards. Who needs 'em?
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Nov 11, 2015 23:13
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You should post the screen shots of the worst ones in your thread at the Samba. Also, is that closed cell foam? I hope it's rates for the heat too. I'd keep an eye on it, it would suck if it started melting.
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Nov 12, 2015 08:35
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Mobile posting right now, but that's a good idea. And for the foam, I assume it's a standard PU open cell foam, which should be good without much thermal degradation to 200c. I had to get my soldering iron up to 500ish F before it would melt it apart.
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Nov 12, 2015 08:54
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Fuel mixer is on the way. Put a sticker in there for you too and you wont be surprised when you see what it is, haha.
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Nov 12, 2015 23:36
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Fart Pipe posted:Fuel mixer is on the way. Put a sticker in there for you too and you wont be surprised when you see what it is, haha. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CX9Z3546Vo
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Nov 13, 2015 00:01
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Fart Pipe I got the carb body! Looks like either I'll be able to use it, or use the jets at least. The Chinese pict 30/31 has some modifications to the casting that make some pieces incompatible, but having actual labeled Solex jets ensures I've got stock jetting, so that's very nice. Today I got woken up early by a dying tamogatchi, so I went out and installed the CB ("filstar") valve covers, as well as the replacement reverse light switch on the transmission.    Drove to work but don't know if they worked because it rained so the entire bus is wet, can't tell if there are new oil spots. 
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Nov 15, 2015 23:41
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You still have a Tamagotchi?
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Nov 15, 2015 23:54
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Those valve covers are boss. Np on the carb. Sorry it was dirty but I didnt have time to throw it in the cleaner bucket. Did you find the sticker? Haha.
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Nov 16, 2015 00:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You still have a Tamagotchi? Apparently. In the kitchen junk drawer. A few years ago I found my dreamcast and its VMU and that started a $150 ebay gigapet nostalgia binge. Then I forgot about them. The sticker is on the bus. The bus has become my sticker place because it has big, flat windows. I'll get a picture tonight. It's pretty baller.
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Nov 16, 2015 01:08
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Earlier today: Hello darkness my old friend. You Am I posted:What are we supposed to notice in that blurry small photo? IOwnCalculus posted:ADEQ emissions station, the bane of that orange Beetle's existence. Fart Pipe posted:Trying to get that Beetle to pass emissions. Two hours later: Welp, gently caress my life   Failed again, and again. And now I'm out of money until Friday so I'm going to take these three boys and build the best carburetor I can from the rubble. Two hours ago:  Now: I am a God Damned Wizard    So I now have a (hopefully) working 30 PICT 3, created from Fart Pipe's 30-PICT-3 body he sent me, and the rest of the parts from the 30/31 PICT 3 I ordered in from China that failed in the earlier picture. I know it got close, but that was after two tries, with adjustments to the best I could do. All of the threads on it were graunchy, and nothing fit right. Using it with the genuine German body is the best bet. I also took the spare jet that came in Fart Pipe's carb, a 122, and put it in the eariler 34-PICT-3, the one I've been running with the past year, and also the one that failed the first seven tests (tests eight and nine were with the new Chinese one). I had the 34-PICT-3 tuned well enough that it was only failing the loaded hydrocarbon test (it's final test was the one mentioned in the "PREVIOUS RESULTS" line on the photo of the test receipt above), and maybe the smaller main, to 122 from 125, may fix things? I'm 50/50 running with this rebuilt 30, or running with the modified 34, for the next (and hopefully final) test.
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Nov 17, 2015 03:45
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Do they sell guaranteed to pass? Or E85? Its hell on old fuel systems...but split a little in your tank. your idle fail....its been a long rear end time since I dealt with ACVW carbs. do you have an a/f screw? Screw that fucker in 1/4-1/2 turn or so.
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Nov 17, 2015 05:19
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There are two screws, a large "bypass" screw and the smaller "volume" screw. Here's what I gather after dredging up a hundred or so posts about the subject on different sites and in different service manual PDFs: On old (pre-PICT-34) carbs, where the larger (bypass) screw is on the bottom and the small (volume) screw is on the top, the bypass screw controls total air to the idle system, and the volume screw controls fuel. These carbs coincidentally oftentimes don't have an idle shutoff solenoid, or the shutoff solenoid was located on the right side of the carbs, integrated with the pilot jet, alongside the choke. On these, screwing in the volume screw will lean it out. On newer (34-PICT and onwards, including 30/31 PICT modern replacements, like the 30/31 PICT-3 I bought a few days ago), the large bypass screw is on top, and the small volume screw is on the bottom. Allegedly, according to aircooled.net, rob and dave's VW pages, and a simple majority of TheSamba posts, on these the volume screw now controls idle air, and screwing in the volume screw makes it richer, as you're controlling air. On these carbs, they have an idle shutoff solenoid located on the left side of the carb, right next to the idle adjustment screws. From what I can gather, in the second scenario, the pilot jet controls total fuel available and therefore must be chosen carefully, as you cannot push less fuel than it provides, but you can adjust more air into the idle circuit via the volume screw. In the first scenario, (allegedly) you could oversize the idle pilot jet and adjust it down with the (confusingly-having-the-exact-same-name) volume screw, which was helpful as the idle solenoid being integrated with the pilot jet meant rejetting cost quite a bit more. Added to all of this terrible confusion, we have the fact that there is a current split in the VW-ownership-matrix re: the gigantic number of original, pre-71 cars, and the absolutely mindboggling amount of data about those cars that is stored in difficult-to-access "offline-only" sources, like certain books, and greybeard word of mouth. Converse to that, you have the ACVW "resurgence" of the past 10 years or so, and the huge aftermarket that has grown in size around those enthusiasts. The new enthusiasts tend to be younger and more apt to share info "online" about their cars. Since that online information coincides with the new aftermarket that does weird things like create the mentioned "30/31 PICT" carburetors (named because they replace both 30 and 31 PICT carbs in a sort of hybrid arrangement where the manufacturers picked the best of both worlds) and their weird idiosyncracies (like the reversed bypass/volume arrangement) means doing a google search for information produces opposite and conflicting results. These carbs are, I think, a perfect example. Here's the original, German 30-PICT-3. Notice there is no solenoid on this side of the carb, and in these, I'm 99% sure the small screw adjusts fuel:  Here's the 34-PICT-3 I was running. Notice it has the solenoid, and the screws are backwards, and therefore theoretically the small screw adjusts air, not fuel:  And here's the Chinese 30/31 PICT-3, that has the solenoid located the same as the 34 (different than the OG 30), and has the 34-style screw arrangement. Strangely, though, all of the parts from this fit on the OG 30-PICT-3, and is what I used to rebuild the one posted earlier.  The Chinese 30/31 PICT-3 is a hybrid that takes from both generations. Unfortunately, decades and decades of knowledge were built up upon the original 24/28/30-style carburetors, which is the absolute reverse of nearly all aftermarket parts, like the 30/31 replacement carbs. I have found enough posts stating that the later carbs are "assbackwards from every other carb on the planet" in that respect, though, so I'm pretty confident I'm on the right track. That being said: Those who know ACVWs can chime in here, because I could be deluded in my search and be wrong about all of this on all fronts. No sarcasm: it has happened before.
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Nov 17, 2015 05:47
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If e85 helps I wonder how much a meth injection kit and a windshield washer reservoir full of homebrewed boost juice would help the idle CO2.
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Nov 17, 2015 06:05
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Whatever frankencarb you use go with the smaller jet for sure. That should help lower CO and hydrocarbons. Good luck man. I went through the same thing with my Rx7 when I worked at an emissions station and it never passed, not even close. I had to get a new fail sticker every 60 days since we werent allowed to have any non complying cars on the property.
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Nov 17, 2015 14:17
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It sounds to me like it's crying for an EJ22 swap. Goddamn, that is some poo poo luck.
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Nov 17, 2015 16:38
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Fart Pipe posted:Whatever frankencarb you use go with the smaller jet for sure. That should help lower CO and hydrocarbons. Good luck man. I went through the same thing with my Rx7 when I worked at an emissions station and it never passed, not even close. I had to get a new fail sticker every 60 days since we werent allowed to have any non complying cars on the property. I agree with this. It looks like it is running ok at load but rich at idle. Does it idle kinda rough but smooths out on acceleration? Is idle rough and acceleration feel restricted? Anything you can tell us other than the report? Shame they don't give you all of the readings instead of just what important for pass/fail. Co2 and o2 readings help tell you what's wrong and let's you use a lambda calculator to give your exact a/f ratio and such. That tells you if it is a fuel system problem or something else. Your car sounds like the perfect diagnostic example for my smog class.
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Nov 17, 2015 18:25
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kastein posted:It sounds to me like it's crying for an
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Nov 17, 2015 19:34
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The results from that test were with the Chinese carb, and the old run on the bottom of the sheet was with the 34-PICT carb, but with like 60% denatured alcohol.
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Nov 17, 2015 21:11
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 19:21 |
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Boring no-picture update, but today I took all of the pushrod tubes out, cleaned the rubber seals (I had slightly torn a few of them on installation, it was my first time after all), cleaned out the pushrod tube mounts, and sealed everything with black RTV. I'm waiting now for the RTV to cure. Pretty sure my leak is/was a pushrod tube seal, but we'll see.
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Nov 18, 2015 01:06
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