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My friend with the stupid fast Volvo and (now) Megasquirted 4runner lives on the other side of the 51 from you. E: I don't know poo poo about acvws so I'm no help, but gas diluted oil could have worked it's way past the rings and seals into your exhaust/combustion chamber.
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Aug 19, 2015 05:20
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 05:28 |
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On z cars, there is a piece in the booster called a reaction disc. When it fails or falls off, it causes what you said: no brakes then all the brakes (no modulation). Dunno if your bus has anything like that.
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Sep 1, 2015 03:41
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I've heard of gears in vdo stuff become anything from goo to dust. On your 3D printed thing, I thought most 3D printed stuff was not underhood temp rated? Doesn't that stuff melt at 240F or so?
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Sep 8, 2015 03:52
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That's awesome! What kind of dimensional tolerance can you hit? Would you be interested in printing out a few small pieces for me?
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Sep 8, 2015 04:23
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Geirskogul posted:Even though printer manufacturers claim otherwise, I like to think of it as a .1mm three dimensional grid. I mean, I printed some m10x1.25 threading that worked fine, but anything smaller and I like to run a tap through it. Cool. I have to modify it because I designed it with machining in mind. It's just a little adapter for a hall effect sensor. The sensor is rated to 240F so it should fail before the printed part.
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Sep 9, 2015 01:18
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A good way to set up the welder is to run it hotter than you think on a piece of flat steel. If it doesn't burn through, play with the wire speed til you have a nice sizzle. If it does, go down on the heat and start again. The nozzle needs to be about .250" or maybe a little less from the work piece, and the distance has a huge effect on the weld. Once it has a nice sizzle, if you run a bead on a flat piece, the flux should fall right off with minimum brushing. If you run it nice and hot, it will sometimes curl up on its own. If you run hot but move to fast, you see an undercut on each side of the bead. Slow down to get it to fill nicely. Too slow and the bead will be too big. Too cold and the bead will look like it's laying on top of the metal. You want to run the hottest you can for maximum penetration, but it has the most risk for blowing through or warping the part. Do not attempt body repair without gas. Seriously don't. Edges melt faster, that edge to edge weld you did looks cold, but will likely melt away too fast if you run the settings as if you were doing a flat weld. Ts take the most heat, and the slowest movement to fill correctly.
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Oct 6, 2015 09:57
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You should post the screen shots of the worst ones in your thread at the Samba. Also, is that closed cell foam? I hope it's rates for the heat too. I'd keep an eye on it, it would suck if it started melting.
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Nov 12, 2015 08:35
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 05:28 |
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I think TBI unit would be better since the early ones run on 15psi of pressure, so all he'd need is a new pump and regulator (plus an adapter plate).
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Nov 19, 2015 18:54
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