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I wouldn't have even noticed if you hadn't said that  You live on tattooine so I wouldn't even be worried about corrosion, and a lot of people leave battery terminals bare. Do whatever you want. And oil leaks are the worst... I have been fighting a stupid oil leak I can't find on my pancake motor too. Thought it was the passenger side cam seal, but when I took the timing belt covers off to check there wasn't any residue.
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Sep 2, 2015 00:22
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I would consider making some sort of an adjustable table that can be used as a base for printing on instead of having to basically print the thing every time, wasting filament. 3D printing still seems like a toy to me (it can't do most of the things I'd want to do, sadly) but it takes early adopters to iron out the bugs, and is definitely great for stuff like what you're making now. Also, congrats on your mostly leak free ACVW. You know it's going to spring another leak now just to spite you, right?
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Sep 11, 2015 18:00
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I would kill for a car that came with cupholders sized perfectly for a Nalgene. I have one of those in my car 365 days a year, sodas/fast food cups/beers/anything else 0 days a year.
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Oct 14, 2015 21:07
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Appears to be 3.65" / 93mm. I might have to look into the fire extinguisher idea
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Oct 14, 2015 21:34
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You should probably take a video of you scratching some super rare part on it while staring at the camera and flipping it off, and then link it to anyone who PMs you nonsense like that. gently caress that kind of attitude, it's your drat car and it's not even close to a good example, just a beater survivor. You can't save em all.
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Oct 15, 2015 04:26
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It sounds to me like it's crying for an EJ22 swap. Goddamn, that is some poo poo luck.
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Nov 17, 2015 16:38
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Wow, that's a new level of douchebaggery. Most brand specific forums I'm on will only ban you, not delete everything you ever said. Have you considered an EFI swap...? I'm kinda curious what it'd take to put EFI on an ACVW now. I bet megasquirt could do it, leaving you with the problem of making manifolds and injector rails.
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Nov 19, 2015 16:14
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YAY! Congratulations.
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Nov 23, 2015 22:49
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Free parts car? Take it. Also, I have a spare (as in I own two) M22x1.5 tap around from the Ranger re-engine catastrophuck. I'm not sure where it is but can go looking for it if you want. Yours cheap (real cheap.)
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Nov 24, 2015 16:16
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Yeah, just that mostly rust free chassis would be worth some decent cash to someone in a rusty area who wants to build an ACVW. Hell, if you only want parts off it and it comes titled or with some sort of paperwork, that'd make an awesome AISS gift... recipient must pick up (No, I don't want it, I just got the idea from IOC getting an unknown car possibly still extant, possibly still in a florida swamp last year)
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Nov 25, 2015 15:53
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I'm debating keeping my old dishwasher for just this sort of shenanigans when I put the kitchen back together... ... place your bets: How long will a dishwasher filled with acetone (or diesel fuel, or kerosene) survive before all the seals, hoses, and assorted plastic bits turn into goo?
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Jan 12, 2016 20:48
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I am offended by those connectors on a moral and religious level, but if they work for you, at least they aren't scotchloks I guess. So when are you doing the EFI conversion on this thing?
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Jan 22, 2016 22:58
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Yeah, those most definitely have a spot in the emergency roadside heehaw repair toolkit, I'm not uncomfortable about that at all. I might have to get some myself for that kind of thing in fact.
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Jan 22, 2016 23:22
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Do yourself a favor and keep that stuff 6" away from anywhere you may need to weld new panels on in the future. I mean, people restore burned-to-the-ground buses all the time, but polyisocyanates do really bad stuff to your lungs when they go up in flames IIRC.
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Feb 1, 2016 17:24
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I for one think it'd be hilarious if you EFI swapped this beast somehow using EJ18 parts. It's a 1600/1700, right? That's not too far off displacement wise, I bet you could bodge the fuel rate with different injectors or a different fuel pressure regulator easily enough.
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Mar 29, 2016 15:58
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Raluek posted:Rather than an engine swap, Kastein seems to be suggesting using 1.8 Subaru parts (ECU and assorted bits) to run your existing engine, as a way to get rid of your carb synch woes. I guess the hardest part would be getting all the sensors to mount up correctly, and making an intake manifold with injector bungs and a throttle body. Yeah that's what I was thinking. It wasn't really a serious suggestion, but rigging cam and crank reluctor wheels for this kind of setup shouldn't be bad (since you can dispose of the distributor or use it as a base for your cam sensor shenanigans, as subaru EJ motors are coilpack based) and I bet you could straight-up use the subaru throttle body as-is with an adapter plate made out of 6061 on a drill press*. That leaves injector bungs and fuel rails as the difficult part. * I have no idea if there was ever a single-carb manifold for those beasts, but I bet you could figure a way to make this work. You're smart and better with CAD and stuff than me.
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Mar 29, 2016 21:29
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Geirskogul posted:Like a megasquirt, but with Subaru parts. Yeah, I can see that. Even better, they do offer single intake manifolds, and they're two pieces, so an adapter to a Subaru throttle body wouldn't be too bad. knock sensor: I'd bolt it to the cylinder head you suspect will get the hottest, since that one will probably detonate first. You could also just leave it hanging if you know it's not going to knock. Or for that matter, put one on each head and build a mixer/preamp for the signal or if they're the piezo sensors I suspect they are, just put them in parallel or series, not sure which. air temp: nose sticking into the intake manifold somewhere. Probably easily drilled and tapped, it doesn't have to handle much pressure. water temp: hmmm this is a good point since you don't have any water to put it in. poo poo. Maybe use a CHT or CWT sensor with the same resistance curve? vehicle speed: Since your speedo is cable driven I assume, you can just do what chrisgt did and hook an LM555 sending a pulse train to this to keep the ECU from whining about it. Or in his case, a VCR motor spinning a mechanical vehicle speed sensor, since he's a master macguyver and needed it working immediately O2: weld a bung to your exhaust, it's M18x1.5 thread and they're like 3 bucks at CAP. crank and cam sensors: You'd have to duplicate the stock reluctor wheel shape and mount them to the crank pulley and distributor shaft. Shouldn't be too too hard but also not easy. oil pressure: put it on a tee wherever your oil pressure sender is. Other sensors I can think of off the top of my head - MAP or MAF depending on year. The ones that worry me the most are still the injector mounting, water temp (now that you brought it up), and cam sensor. For the crank sensor you could do something as dumb as using a longer harmonic balancer bolt and a spacer plus the stock subaru crank timing pulley and an angle iron bracket for the sensor if you get it clocked right, it's not like any actual torque gets applied to it. Or scale the stock reluctor tooth pattern up to the diameter of the harmonic balancer outer edge and tack weld little strips of mild steel on in the right spots. Remember you have to scale the whole thing radially, so the teeth will be wider than stock. Injector mounting is definitely the most troublesome and dangerous, though, since you're playing with gas. That has to be done right. I have no idea if this would work or clear all your engine accessories and cooling ducts, but if you could make an adaptor plate to put the entire EJ18 intake manifold onto the VW heads instead (if the ports line up amazingly well, it might be possible) it'd solve a lot of these problems at once.
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Mar 29, 2016 23:41
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Actually, if you can get the TBI to inject the right amount of fuel for a 1600/1700 instead of a 5.7L V8, that's ideal, because I don't think it even has a crank or cam sensor or distributor pickup. People swap them onto AMC V8s, it can't really depend much on hard part compatibility. I wonder if anyone makes TBI injectors that do a quarter the flow instead of more flow? e: nope, you have to modify the distributor so the computer can control spark advance. Unsure on details but they're all over the internet.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:21
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Maybe, but quartering the flow rate would probably be better. Might have to use a smaller throttle body too otherwise you'd never get it past like, barely any throttle. Or are there TBI engines with a closer-to-ACVW displacement that would have a smaller throttle body with smaller injectors that can still be driven by the GM TBI ECU's drivers? I know there are low and high impedance TBI injectors. e: SSS beat me to it. If there's a 2.2 or 2.5 S10 with TBI, that might be worth looking at.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:25
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cursedshitbox posted:also fwiw a lot of 80s vehicles with cruise still had a cable speedometer with a vss mounted somewhere in the middle. find one and jank it. Depending on the threads and signal required, an 88-93 dakota will have one. Input is 7/8-18 female thread, output 5/8-18 male thread, if you need two 5/8 or two 7/8 you can get an adapter bung from an 87-90 xj/mj with cruise, it's on the vss behind the instrument panel. Dakota VSS are reed switch, xj/mj 87-90 VSS are VR style. I have an XJ/MJ VSS to donate but not the adapter bung if you want/need it.
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Mar 30, 2016 13:46
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sucks about the tires, but  I want to pet that kitten so badly right now
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May 24, 2016 17:19
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I've been there before... removing busted off studs is just a miserable, thankless, usually-fruitless task. Busted off studs in aluminum is even worse, I can't believe you got as lucky as you did. At around 3-4AM I finally gave up on getting a busted stud out of the cylinder head on my red XJ's 4.0L and did what you did, I slammed the motor right back in and said gently caress it, it'll do for now. And it did. It lasted a few months before it started leaking again. One missing stud is better than 50% missing studs, you did well. If you have to drill that fucker out it is going to be truly horrible, since I'm sure it's not coming out because it's corroded in place and the surrounding aluminum is so much softer than the steel that it'll be impossible to keep the drill on target. That being said, I'd pull the head, flip it over so the busted stud is on the top, and use alum to dissolve it out.
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Jun 6, 2016 22:16
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Geirskogul posted:Well, after cleaning the IAC valve and lubing it up, it is an issue. But even after doing that (which allowed the truck to idle) it still had no power, and was dumping fuel. I cleared the codes with the battery, and gave it some time to start up again. Pinged the Check Engine light (with flashes for the first bit, code in progress) when I tried to give it throttle. poo poo dude... that sucks. My dad went through exactly the same thing on their 02 but got as far as pulling the engine and partially disassembling it then leaving it out in the rain before throwing in the towel and selling it to a junkyard. You've got way more skill as a mechanic than he does, though. It's a really loving stupid design and the worst part is they did it to save head casting SKUs as far as I know, since it allows the same head (or one machined from the same casting at least) to be rotated 180 and installed on the other side. E: as far as foresters, don't they all blow HGs? Mine was on its third or fourth set of HGs from the PPO when Ozmiander bought it needing them done again (they kept doing a bad job is my guess.) Also, LOL rod bearings.
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Jun 14, 2016 12:51
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The only things I know of that are worth money are the engine (because they all loving blow up like yours did), transmission (because they all loving blow up like yours did), and rear axle (because jeep people love them like Krakkles said.) Can't think of anything else, maybe body panels if they are in good shape? ECU because backyard mechanics always seem to blame it first?
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Jun 20, 2016 23:07
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If you can get a lovely blown up axle that still rolls and ratchet strap it to the leafs it might be worth it, but I don't know how much you value your time. It's a SUA suspension which makes it somewhat more miserable to get the axle out from under the car since you have to unbolt at least one end of each leaf.
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Jun 20, 2016 23:39
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Hell if those plugs are the recommended ones I would just put them back in and keep the new ones you bought till it needs them.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:32
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Can I donate you my old clicky torque wrench? It's not in perfect condition (the ring that adjusts the torque setting has to be treated nicely or it falls off) but works fine, and I got a replacement because I ended up needing one ASAP 300 miles from where it was so I don't use it anyways. It's doing no one any good sitting here and I can't sell it. I can't guarantee when I'll ship it because I'm forgetful and busy, but it's yours if you want it. Goes to at least 175 foot pounds, I can't remember how much more than that it'll do because that's the highest I've ever needed to use it for (XJ/MJ axle nuts.)
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Jul 18, 2016 18:55
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No worries dude, you don't owe me anything, it should be stupid cheap to ship. I'll let you know when I have it boxed up and ready to go.
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Jul 18, 2016 22:48
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The Locator posted:Back when I umm... might have been running a cat-less exhaust, they had actual dummy devices that completely replaced the sensor's to get rid of the code. This is the first time I've ever heard of these, which I guess shows just how far away from the 'car scene' I am these days. A lot of the guys who were making those got hit with a $35k per device sold EPA CAA "defeat device" fine, which usually gets bargained down to "you're going bankrupt and we're taking all your money" IIRC. They are somewhat frowned upon these days, but I'm sure still available. Meanwhile, sparkplug non foulers technically are legal because an O2 sensor snout won't fit through them as-manufactured, and some sparkplugs use the same thread as an O2 sensor, and if you modify the thing to be a defeat device the EPA should be going after you, not the manufacturer. Problem solved. Make sure you get the ones with (usually, check your O2 sensor first) M18x1.5 threads... many spark plugs use M14 which clearly won't work. e: the company I know of that's been making O2 sims since at least 2009 is still making them. I'm assuming they just aren't big enough to attract the EPA's attention... yet. Not a business I'd be in, that's for sure, I don't like risking a $35k fine for every $56 device sold. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 18:20
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Geirskogul posted:I wonder if it was a field expedient fix that they forgot about. Or called somebody in to fix it, he "fixed it" and took the $50 or whatever, and bounced. Yeah I bet someone got stranded, fixed it that way to get home, and promptly forgot about it because now it works! I have done that to myself several times with similar temporary repairs.
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Sep 5, 2016 15:01
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Put your coarsest rat tail file in your drill and get to it.  
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Nov 3, 2016 00:03
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Did you brakleen out the cv bolt holes and clean the bolts too? Preferably the kind that doesn't leave a light sheen of toluene or whatever behind. Loctite does not stick well on oily poo poo, obviously.
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Nov 6, 2016 16:23
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Maybe the holes the bolts thread into are all hogged out from being rattled loose a million times and need to be helicoiled or the part replaced? Spitballing ideas here
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Nov 13, 2016 00:37
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Sucks man, but with how much rust and previous owner hell that thing had gooped all over it, I think you did the right thing to make it someone else's problem. I bet you can build a better bus with a more solid foundation eventually. If you need bus parts later, my aunt and uncle have their own private acvw junkyard of sorts in Oregon and I might be able to pull some favors.
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Sep 15, 2017 18:13
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