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eberbs posted:and the guy in the liberty was ejected so far they thought he had fled the scene. well, they weren't wrong, it just wasn't voluntary on his part.
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Aug 24, 2015 09:52
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 06:33 |
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eberbs posted:yes we could take the windows out correctly but where's the fun in that, plus we can show how difficullit actually is to smash a window. this is useful for lockout training as we mostly use air wedges to pry the door and slide in a long wire tool, and for emergency situations. Plus glass is only 25-30 a panel at the local yard, so it's almost not worth pulling it instead of popping it after you consider getting the drat door panels apart and stuff, and how fun it is to blast safety glass windows.
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Sep 30, 2015 02:09
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gently caress the 6.0/6.4 forever. I hear good things about the 6.7 though. Both of them, that is. e: I had no idea the mitsu delica even existed. Those are kinda cool, in a funky weird tinyvan sort of way. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 17:56
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A few other things that can happen, in no particular order... - all the brake fluid may have drained out of the reservoir and lines - power steering fluid. power steering fluid everywhere. at least if the cap doesn't seal very well. - coolant overflow may or may not empty out, depending on how well the cap seals and where the spill neck is located. - oil usually ends up in the cylinders and/or intake and/or swamping everything under the valve covers because it's upside down, so it leaks past the rings and the rest makes its way to the new lowest point in the engine. If it's left running for any appreciable amount of time, this results in the engine spinning bearings. Can result in kinked or broken rods if someone tries to restart it right after righting the vehicle if the cylinders are full of oil. - diffs, transmission, transfer case etc usually barf some or most of their fluid through their breather tubes and/or dipstick tube Aside from that, it really depends on what car it is.
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Feb 29, 2016 21:35
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If you do brake lines regularly, either at work or on your cars, do yourself a favor and buy an OEM 24364 inline flaring tool. Only fits 4.75mm/3/16 line but that covers about 99% of the market. It also only does double invert 45 degree flares, but again that covers a huge section of the market... bubble flare vehicles and devices notwithstanding. I don't even know where my regular flaring tool (the one you posted) is anymore. And yes, that brake line looks very familiar. Rustbelt brake lines are hell.
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Mar 24, 2016 18:12
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 06:33 |
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The original was probably staked in place, a lot of the older imports and (to this day) Subarus do that. Some kits use an ISR retention setup on the replacement joints, others weld it in. Long as you get the side play right, center it properly, and don't burn up all the grease you're really not doing any damage. Rockford Driveline probably has a replacement ujoint for that... with ISR instead of weld-in. e: http://rockforddriveline.com/Staked-In_U-Joints.pdf looks like you need a Rockford 430-10, same ones used on my 2000 Forester  If you don't like Rockford, you can also get a TUS-10 joint (same as a 430-10) from theujointstore.com which doesn't involve calling on the phone and talking to an old man to place an order, so as a telephone-phobic goon I did this.
kastein fucked around with this message at 19:55 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 19:52
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