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$4200 for a head gasket on an 80s Toyota 4 cylinder that's not in a MR2?  That was "gently caress you, we don't want to do this job, we don't know what a carb is" pricing, I doubt even a dealer would want nearly that much for the job.My mechanic will quote prices like that on poo poo he REALLY doesn't want to work on, hoping to steer them to a shop that knows that particular make a bit better - but that's almost as simple as a head gasket job gets. Remove head, do timing belt service while it's apart, some seals, measure block and head, do whatever milling is needed to make it perfect, slap it back together. He also quotes insanely high prices (doubles his labor rate) on last gen 300ZXs and most turbo Supras, simply because they're a bitch to work on, but he has several people who consistently bring them to him despite that rate. On the 87, going KA24E or KA24DE? The DE is a bit more of a bitch to work on, but offers a bit more power and reliability in general (aside from the timing chain guides).
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Sep 1, 2015 08:15
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 11:38 |
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I'd still suggest the DE; if nothing else, because it has oil squirters under the pistons to help keep things cool. But there's FWD and RWD DEs; the FWD version won't work easily in a hardbody (distributor is driven off of the rear of the exhaust cam, for example, instead of off of the timing cover; hosed up cooling system setup as well). Either way, plan to pull the timing cover and replace the timing chain guides. And be drat careful doing it, since it uses part of the head gasket to seal the top of the timing cover. The guides are pretty cheap. You'll also need an oil pump gasket if you go with the E and pull the timing cover, as the oil pump is external on them (the worm gears on it also like to rotate the distributor shaft when you reinstall the distributor). Replace the PCV valve while you're in there, it's a oval office to get to with the engine in the truck.
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Sep 1, 2015 08:35
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96-98 DX Civic. Front clip has been replaced at some point, judging by the headlights and panel gap (usually the headlights are basically opaque by now, and the hood + fender + bumper don't look like they line up right). The 96-00 LX and EX clusters are a direct swap if you want a tach, and you can even (easily) swap the speedometer/odometer between the clusters (3 or 4 screws IIRC) to keep an accurate odometer. All the wiring for just about everything is already there from the factory. Sadly, you can't swap the 99-00 climate control into it easily.
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Sep 10, 2015 07:30
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eberbs posted:and we got a scrap lexus ls 300 (i think) with a v6 and its got some loving voodoo oil driven rad fan. loving weird. Some Camrys also had the same fan setup. It's voodoo, but works really well.
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Oct 11, 2015 18:30
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90-91 Integra if that's the stock front clip. Most likely 91. Pretty sure that color was only offered on the RS (higher tirms got a deep maroon instead of bright red), so it's probably a base model. All 90+ Integras had a sunroof, and all 90-93 Integras had fog lights. (I used to have a 91, roommate at the time had a 90...) Upside for the owner is he/she never went to JDM lights, so that's one less thing they can hit him with (the JDM lights are far brighter and have a much sharper cutoff, but they're technically illegal in the US, despite being superior in every loving way to the USDM housings)
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Oct 14, 2015 09:36
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Serious question, why did you bother with the screws? Those are generally only used at the factory during assembly to hold the rotor against the hub - many (most?) aftermarket hubs don't even have the holes. Once the wheel is on, that rotor ain't goin nowhere.
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Nov 30, 2015 10:31
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Preoptopus posted:After breaking a million impact driver bits i got to the point where i just torch them out now without even thinking about it. I've always just drilled them out. 
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Dec 22, 2015 20:21
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I need that 5 speed anti-theft sticker.
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Jan 7, 2016 08:56
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96-98 Civic sedan, going by the lights - so just the wheel damage would be enough to total it. The sedans aren't worth much at all. Kinda surprised it hasn't returned to the earth yet to be honest, those things rust even down here. I see more 5th gens on the road than 6th gens.
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Jan 31, 2016 13:53
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Huh, I figured they got the Ecotec by 2001. Guess not. This is a good thing for you though, the earlier Ecotecs were prone to timing chain tensioner failures. How is that thing not a pile of rust by now?! They rust even down here.
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Feb 27, 2016 07:32
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What I'm curious about... I know a rollover is an easy writeoff for most cars - newer ones because 50 airbags go pop all at once, older because, well, older, and the roof is part of the crash structure on everything that's not body on frame anyway. What's the mechanical damage usually like, aside from the suspension damage? I can't imagine it's good for anything, but how hard would it be to get that Mustang running again? Is it just a matter of "flip it over and try to start it (and since Ford, find the fuel pump shutoff that popped when it flipped)"? Or is it usually more like "flip it over, spend several hours going over it, cross your fingers"?
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Feb 29, 2016 11:36
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That... actually looks like it held up really well. I'm impressed.
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Mar 1, 2016 10:19
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To be fair, that's likely at least a 3/4 ton truck (so curb weight of at least 5000 lbs), and 120 kmh = roughly 75 mph. Nothing is going to hold up well against that.
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Apr 6, 2016 07:38
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 11:38 |
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Is.. is that u-joint welded in? 
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May 22, 2016 06:48
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