|
Thanks. I'll pass on the 20b. Let's keep this project simple enough that I might actually finish it! From what I've heard, the irons have a costing (nitride? Or whatever) that makes them unresurfacable
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2017 12:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 2, 2024 20:31 |
|
|
The end plates/irons/side housing used to be redone are done all the time. Not sure if it's possible with new ones or not (nearly all my motors came from rx5s). But I believe you can get them lapped (and maybe recoated?), just not the main rotor housings. But based on the fact my experience with them is rx5 stuff, yeah, I wouldn't do it on a newer motor, ie a FD 13btt or a 20B. E: Like you said before, the best bet is an unopened factory running engine. Late edit: Quote from racing beat (they've been around for ever) quote:Side Housings 1979 means rx7 motors, being that all my builds used rx5 and rx4 irons, they weren't even nitride coated in the first place. I usually used ported rx4 or rx5 side irons. I only used newer parts (ie from Rx7s), for the actual rotor housings, oil pumps etc. Irons were always ported and lapped rx4 and rx5 origins, with minimal factory holes for emissions and faff. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Sep 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2017 12:44
|
|
|
There were some guys trying to rechrome rotor housings on RX7.com, but it's been a while since I've checked in to see if any progress was made. Mazdatrix offers some kind of plasma spray hardening or some voodoo for irons, not exactly sure what the benefits or requirements are for this procedure.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2017 13:40
|
|
|
Thanks for the info. Needless to say, I let the 20b pass by. Stock unopened 13B is the way to go. Poor compression I guess would be preferred as I'd be rebuilding anyway and it may be cheaper. "Apex Seals out" may be a second choice, but I don't want to risk needing a new housing/rotor. I've got a line on a 25k mile stock unopened 13b, but its the keg only - I'm sure I'd get nickle-and-dimed to death on all the other stuff to make it whole.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2017 20:05
|
|
|
Oh hey something I have relevant technical knowledge of: Stripping chrome chemically is easy and(mechanically) harmless, rechroming to a specific depth consistently requires someone to build an electrode to match the required shape. Depending on the exact thickness and consistency required for a housing it could be simple for a good company. One-off cost could be a couple of hundred. Nitride coating can be baked out easily, PPD nitride recoating is the poo poo these days, for something like a rotor warping and distortion would be a non-issue also. Basically cost is the only barrier and if you had a pallet full it wouldn't be eye-watering, especially if they're a finite resource.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2017 22:16
|
|
|
Good to know. The UZZ32 suffers from scoring on the hard chromed shafts within the suspension struts. The solution is to grind back and re-chrome to the original diameter. Any leads on a good place in the UK to do this? I have 16 struts that need it. The shaft can be seen here as item #3: http://planetsoarer.com/UZZ32/rearshock2.jpg Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Sep 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2017 23:02
|
|
|
I'll check my contacts when I'm back at work but that looks small enough to be a simple job, the most important thing will be your requested finished diameter and tolerance.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2017 09:42
|
|
|
Fortunately I believe Toyota lists all of these critical dimensions in the FSM. These shafts need to be treated the same as those found on any hydraulic cylinder, such as those in construction machinery.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2017 13:56
|
|
|
Should be real simple then.the cylindrical grinding will be the expensive half. If the chrome isn't too bad they might just recoat without stripping it too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2017 15:49
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Should be real simple then.the cylindrical grinding will be the expensive half. If the chrome isn't too bad they might just recoat without stripping it too. Cheers for the info. I figured it could just be placed on a lathe to remove the score marks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 18:20
|
|
|
September update! I only had one more day at home this month, I used it to sort out and tidy up the engine bay. The first (main) job was the front subframe, and the 2" spacers/1JZ mounts that were added to it. These things made the subframe hilariously low, and probably have negative effect on the cars handling.      With those gone, I found some Soarer bolts (they are the car that keeps on giving!) to replace them with. The rear bolts needed to be longer, I ended up using Soarer drive shaft guibo bolts and a stack of washers. I'll buy 6 proper bolts in the future. Is there a shim/metal gasket between the frame rail and subframe on these cars?   I removed one of the wheels, and made a pleasant discovery. these can stay for sure   All of the bolt heads for the split have RAYS embossed around them. Hopefully once this thick paint/powdercoat is stripped, the bolts underneath will look decent. The car has Bilstein suspension but ~280mm front brake discs. Which is an odd combination as the internet tells me that Type R cars got no Bilsteins and 294mm discs, while Type RZ cars got the Bilstein suspension and 314mm discs. I have no idea which my car is!  The springs on here are looking rustier than I'd like. Once the car is complete, I can look into a replacement of appropriate length.  I didn't take any more photos, but I also stripped out some parts of the engine bay to paint (matt black with clear over the top), removed the wiper motor and found it to work fine (but the wipers move slowly/not at all, which is odd), added a few more coats to the dashboard pieces, and painted some relay brackets in the engine bay. I'm also slowly swapping the old, rustyish bolts for clean, still-gold RX8 ones. I'm away now for a few weeks. I'll be in Detroit for the second week of October, and am already making a mental list of any parts I may need to bring back with me. In other news, I've sourced 90% of the parts I need to finish the car. I'm still hunting for an engine, but the interior parts, and many of the engine related parts have been found. I have a spare wheel well/trunk floor heading my way soon, to replace the rotten one in my car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
If you're going to be in America buy an LS! 
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 18:54
|
|
|
Wrar posted:If you're going to be in America buy an LS! ....and fly it back as checked luggage. A bit big for carry-on, I'm afraid.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 19:41
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:removed the wiper motor and found it to work fine (but the wipers move slowly/not at all, which is odd) crap ground?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 20:03
|
|
|
meltie posted:crap ground? partially seized wiper transmission?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 20:30
|
|
|
He's going to be in LS country!
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 20:58
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:partially seized wiper transmission? It's hard to tell, because to remove the motor you need to pull part of the linkage out from inside the cowl, at which point it rubs against the firewall. Everything feels as good as it should though. meltie posted:crap ground? Maybe. There is definitely something funky happening in the electrical system, as only one headlight motor works from the pop up switch. They both have power though (they both fight to return to their home position if disturbed)
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 22:37
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:Maybe. There is definitely something funky happening in the electrical system, as only one headlight motor works from the pop up switch. They both have power though (they both fight to return to their home position if disturbed) Could be a crap Mazda body ground maybe. On the MX5 the body grounds came together in a few translucent white flat junction boxes. My engine bay one was under the brake booster and was filled mainly with green corrosion. By the time I found it my headlamps were earthing themselves via the horn.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 23:31
|
|
|
meltie posted:Could be a crap Mazda body ground maybe. On the MX5 the body grounds came together in a few translucent white flat junction boxes. My engine bay one was under the brake booster and was filled mainly with green corrosion. By the time I found it my headlamps were earthing themselves via the horn. It certainly seems that way! More on that below. So, I've just had my first day off since posting my last update (sigh). I managed to get a few bits done on the car. I started by dropping the fuel tank, and removing all of the rusted metal in the spare wheel well.  This doesn't look so good!  I only removed the rusted sections for now - I have a complete trunk floor on its way to me, and I'll decide how much to cut and replace when that arrives.  I removed the spot welds at the rear of the car and separated the remains of the rusted panel. Fortunately the metal underneath was untouched.  With that gone, I checked the area for rust and added some weld-through primer, ready to receive new metal.  The next task was the electrical system. Despite having a healthy battery, every electrical system seems to be struggling, some of the systems (mirrors, windows, left popup headlight) don't work at all. The wiper motor doesn't function in 'intermittent' or 'single' mode, which is likely an issue with its sensor. I pulled the bumper to check the two body grounds that lay behind it (I might move these, what a lovely location for them!). The grounds were corroded, I cleaned them up, but still have the same issues. I've metered from various relays to ground and am getting various readings, all above 50 ohms. The readings change depending on how many body grounds are attached.   I'm thinking of pulling all of the cars harnesses and checking every wire, connection, fuse, relay, and ground point. At least then I can eliminate some of those. I'm also looking for dimensions on Tesla Model S drive units, info on these is vague, the best I can find is that it's 31 inches long, which means it would fit in an FD if mounted upside down in front of the rear axle, to occupy the space currently used by the rear seats.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2017 18:43
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:I'm also looking for dimensions on Tesla Model S drive units, info on these is vague, the best I can find is that it's 31 inches long, which means it would fit in an FD if mounted upside down in front of the rear axle, to occupy the space currently used by the rear seats. Well, this is an interesting development.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 21:00
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:Tesla Model S drive units...  Go on... Also I'd contact some of the people online who have rebuild Tesla's, since they've either got this info already or the motors on hand to measure up. Try getting in touch with Car Guru on Youtube since he know his way around them quite well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 09:21
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Well, this is an interesting development. Yeah this certainly went sideways quickly into ridiculous territory...
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 10:08
|
|
|
After examining the rear subframe, it looks as though the upper control arm mounting points would be in the same place as a Tesla drive unit no matter the orientation. The smaller motors (from the xxD vehicles) might have a better chance, but availability is pretty much zero on this side of the Atlantic. Not to worry, because I have a plan B  .I'm flying out to Detroit on Sunday for part of my yearly experience of the auto show (I'll be heading there at least two more times before the end of the year). Which means no more car updates for the next 2-3 weeks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 20:35
|
|
|
OK, so here is plan B. It's a GS450h transmission stuffed into the trunk of my GS450h (yo dawg I herd you like...): It's all been inspired by these projects: https://hackaday.io/project/4649-diy-electric-vehicle-from-recycled-parts http://www.zeva.com.au/Projects/RX7/ I've been unable to find any sort of decent rotary engine for the car, the best I found was £2500 for a blown motor that was a block only, which will need upwards of £1000 of parts to rebuild myself. People are asking for upwards of £2000 for the intake/exhaust manifolds with stokc turbos and fuel rails. Add another £1000 for a wiring harness and ECU, then another £1000 for random parts (alternator, mounts, radiator, fans, etc) and I'm already around £7k for a motor. So, £7k is my budget for an EV build. The aim is around 250-300whp, and a 150 mile range. I plan to accomplish this with a high performance motor (sadly I'll have to skip the Tesla units as they are not available in Europe), a custom motor controller (in my case, two three-phase inverters), and suitable batteries. My "parts list" is as follows: Motor - GS450h hybrid transmission This contains two motor-generators, named MG1 and MG2.  MG1 lives in the "bellhousing" of the transmission and is used to control the engine RPM in relation to the road speed (it handles the CVT element of the transmission). It also handles the functions of a traditional starter motor and alternator. MG2 is the longer motor in the image above. It is a more powerful motor which is used only for acceleration and regenerative braking. It drives the rear wheels through a two-speed automatic transmission. The current configuration is Engine + MG1 feed a planetary gearset. MG1 adjusts its speed to keep the engine rpm matched to the power output required (e.g. if you floor it off the line, MG1 will allow the engine to run at higher rpm from around 0mph to generate maximum power). The output from these two is fed into one end of MG2, which can add or remove power (regen) as required. This all goes into a two-speed transmission (which I've never noticed while driving, I believe it may be a failsafe in case the hybrid system fails). For this project, the input shaft from the engine can be locked (I like the idea of welding the centre of and old clutch to a transmission mounting plate), which will lock MG1 and 2 together. From there, some intelligent control will be required to run the motors in harmony. This isn't helped by the fact that the gearing between MG1 and MG2 is not 1:1. Top speed is limited to the rated speed of MG1, due to the gearing between the motors. I worked it out previously and have since forgotten. For an RX7 with a 4:1 final drive, it was somewhere around 85mph. Which is fine for road use. The motor unit weighs around 130kg. This is heavy. Fortunately it will be well-placed in the centre of the car. Controller - modified GS450h unit The GS450h transmission is rated to around 200hp. In reality, the motors can produce more power, the limiting factor is the DC-DC converter which drives them. The GS450h has a 288v battery, which is stepped up to 600+v by a converter, before being sent to the inverters (there are two inverters, one for each motor). By bypassing this converter, and running 600v of batteries, power and efficiency can be increased. The inverter would require custom control electronics and firmware. This would be the greatest challenge for this project. Batteries - Nissan Leaf units The Nissan Leaf uses (depending on model year) 24kwh of batteries, packed into 48 cells, which, when packaged with a monitoring system, safety relays, and a case, weighs about 200kg. This could be repackaged to weigh less. I would likely end up using two sets of Leaf batteries, to give me the voltage needed, and to increase the range. This would, however, increase the weight of the vehicle. Tesla and Chevy Volt lithium batteries are not available in the UK (Tesla packs are available in Europe for ~£12k each). Other battery technologies are not worth considering. Brakes, steering, other bits Brakes can be handled using the original unit, along with a vacuum pump and storage chamber for vacuum assist. Power steering could be done using a Prius (etc) unit which mounts on the steering column. The factory rack can be converted to manual by pulling out the internal seals and plugging the hose holes in the rack (I plan to buy a junk/leaking rack to do this with). A 600v - 12v DC converter would be needed to power the car. A regular (but smaller) car battery could be used. The accelerator pedal could be replaced with the DBW pedal from the RX8 (I already have one of these!) The clutch pedal could be repurposed as a regen pedal (if laws allow), or the pedal box could be changed with one from an auto. Shifting could be done electronically, with a shifter mounted anywhere. The transmission still has a manual parking pawl, this could be actuated by a solenoid, or by a lever mounted in the cabin. So...yeah, that's the plan. I did some digging and found that this car was last on the road in 2011. Since then it's been stripped, had a 1JZ fitted, stripped again, and then sold as a "breaker". I don't feel bad about not putting a rotary motor back in - 13B's are rare enough that they would be better suited being used to keep the "nice" RX7's on the road. V8 conversions would cost the same/more as this conversion should cost me. How crazy am I, on a scale of 1 to RX7? Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Oct 21, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2017 18:20
|
|
|
You're totally crazy. Have you considered importing a motor from Japan, Australia or the US? There are several Rotorheads on this forum who could help and insure you got a proper engine. Anyway: You can also use various other EPS units. This guy did a great writeup on LS1Tech: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1848775-35-electric-power-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-no-caster-issues.html I have one from a Versa. It's a similar design to the Prius ones. Kia/Hyundai also make several you could try. You could also grab one from a Yaris. One of the known issues with the Leaf battery packs is they're not cooled and have a tendency to wear out early as a result.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2017 21:26
|
|
|
Wrar posted:You're totally crazy. Have you considered importing a motor from Japan, Australia or the US? There are several Rotorheads on this forum who could help and insure you got a proper engine. I have not considered this as it likely be cost prohibitive thanks to brexit and the high import duties in the UK. Regarding EPS units, most of the Toyota ones are the same, the key is to get one that was designed for the weight of the vehicle you are installing it into (Yaris ones are smaller, for example). The Toyota ones are good because they will work standalone. The Nissan, Kia, etc ones may need CAN signals to function. Leaf batteries are my only real option other than bulk buying 18650 cells.I could design a cooling system for these, though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2017 21:45
|
|
|
This is a fantastic idea and I'm hoping it pans out. From reading a bunch of EV blogs I understand you can lego the leaf batteries together and apart to make 1 or many batteries of whatever capacity?
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2017 22:43
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:This is a fantastic idea and I'm hoping it pans out. From reading a bunch of EV blogs I understand you can lego the leaf batteries together and apart to make 1 or many batteries of whatever capacity? Yes, pretty much. They all get squished together with steel rods and end plates to pack them tightly,but you can 'stack' them as far as you like depending on space. They come in "Left" and "Right" variants, which determines which connector on the pack is positive and which is negative, for convenient connection of the bus bar links between cells. This is a huge advantage over 18650 cells, which need to all be spot welded to metal plates, or the Volt batteries, which are oddly shaped and not so modular. Plus, Leaf batteries are cheap and not hard to find in the UK.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2017 23:37
|
|
|
This thread is loving nuts and I love it
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2017 00:50
|
|
|
You are crazy. I love it!
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2017 01:43
|
|
|
How much power does the MG1 put out compared to the MG2 unit? Also having a look at the cut-away, would it be possible to remove the MG1 unit (since it looks like it's a seperate split section) and add in another MG2 unit in series? Not that I expect you to go this extreme but I'm just curious as to the design of this hybrid gearbox. I'm guessing you've already made measurements as to how it'll fit in the stock RX7 transmission tunnel, will cutting/messaging be required? So many questions! Always been a fan of EV conversions.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2017 12:03
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:I'm flying out to Detroit on Sunday for part of my yearly experience of the auto show (I'll be heading there at least two more times before the end of the year). Which means no more car updates for the next 2-3 weeks. I don't think I even went last year. Maybe this year will be better and worth going to. Sucks that you're constrained by what you can get in the UK, but still this should be interesting.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2017 12:09
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:I'm also looking for dimensions on Tesla Model S drive units, info on these is vague, the best I can find is that it's 31 inches long, which means it would fit in an FD if mounted upside down in front of the rear axle, to occupy the space currently used by the rear seats. If you're still considering this, this is who you need to talk to. Dude rebuilt a flood damaged (as in half submerged in salt water) Tesla from the ground up from various other Teslas, and I think he even managed to get it re-certified by Tesla (which is a massive PITA). Basically the only things original to the car are the chassis, wheels, and mayyyybe the communicator stuff. e: his net cost (after buying a few other salvage cars for parts, then parting out what he didn't need) wound up being less than $10k, IIRC. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Oct 22, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2017 12:22
|
|
|
Jomo posted:How much power does the MG1 put out compared to the MG2 unit? Also having a look at the cut-away, would it be possible to remove the MG1 unit (since it looks like it's a seperate split section) and add in another MG2 unit in series? Not that I expect you to go this extreme but I'm just curious as to the design of this hybrid gearbox. I forget the actual figures - there are a few numbers floating around, but I believe it was something like 66hp for MG1 and 133hp for MG2. Those numbers may be off but it's around there. Yes, you could certainly cut the box in half and join two together. The issue is that the outer casting of the transmission is also the stator housing, so a flange would need to be welded on to the tail shaft of the front motor to allow the motors to be coupled. A coupler would be required. The system is oil lubricated and cooled, this would need to be factored in (oil passages managed, etc). Jomo posted:I'm guessing you've already made measurements as to how it'll fit in the stock RX7 transmission tunnel, will cutting/messaging be required? I haven't measured a thing. The closest I've done is thought "poo poo, it's wider than I'd imagined" as I heaved it into the trunk of the Lexus. I don't plan on modifying the stock RX7. I may cut off the front part of the bellhousing from the transmission. Larrymer posted:I don't think I even went last year. Maybe this year will be better and worth going to. Last year was the same as 2015. I can't imagine this year being any better. Have a browse at the press releases online and make a decision. I'm often there for the first press day and could probably post a tl;dr. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If you're still considering this, this is who you need to talk to. Dude rebuilt a flood damaged (as in half submerged in salt water) Tesla from the ground up from various other Teslas, and I think he even managed to get it re-certified by Tesla (which is a massive PITA). Basically the only things original to the car are the chassis, wheels, and mayyyybe the communicator stuff. I followed that project. The guy certainly knows his stuff. I'm jealous of the access that you guys get to these vehicles. In the UK, any car that is written off with majorish+ chassis damage, flood damage, etc, can either only be sold to registered dismantlers, or depending on the severity, must be crushed. Generally, flooded cars have to be crushed with all their parts.This leads to a lack of cheap wrecked cars, and inflated parts prices. The Model S is rare and expensive enough over here that the parts command high prices. The cheapest wrecked Model S I've seen was £30k. The only motor I've seen was £5k from Eastern Europe. There's a P85 battery in Gernamy for £15k! I think his net cost was $6k. Not a bad deal at all!
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2017 01:47
|
|
|
Well, his initial outlay was still 5 figures, and I think he bought a second parts car, but he made most of the money back by selling off the damaged parts (or parts he didn't need from the parts car). I don't get why he went through with fixing it with everything it needed - I would have considered it a parts car only, and even then, only for body and suspension stuff. Had it been freshwater I wouldn't have had any qualms about reusing wiring, but it was sitting in saltwater. That's too bad that flood damaged cars there have to be crushed whole - a lot of cars here wind up written off as flood damage just from the engine sucking up water. Like this douche, who managed to write off a brand new AMG with 3500 miles by hydrolocking the engine. The only damage was to the engine, nothing else, but a new AMG engine turned out to be $70k+. It got auctioned off, and I'm sure someone is throwing a used engine in it (or they have connections to get a brand new engine). Older cars will get written off just from the carpet getting a bit wet. When I replaced the transmission on my old car, I was told it came out of a 98. Nissan stamped the VIN on the trans, and while it did come out of a 98 at the junkyard (saw the car myself), it turned out it'd been replaced at some point with one from an 01 that was written off for flood damage with ~40k on it (got bored and ran a carfax on the VIN that was on the gearbox). Transaxle was fine by the time I got it, and didn't look like it'd been opened up. I'd bet the 01 it originally came out of ran fine, just got written off because it got water in the interior. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:32 on Oct 23, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2017 09:26
|
|
|
Some silly navel-gazing: I'm sure the bolt pattern and passages are asymmetrical but if it happens to be symmetrical you could bolt 2 MG2s back to back and drive one in reverse, gut the spare gearset and put a block off plate over it. Otherwise maybe make an adapter that is wide enough for a center diff to fit in and run 4wd albeit with 2 transmissions that need to be kept in sync(obviously a silly idea in an rx7).
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2017 22:56
|
|
|
As cool as it would be to combine two of the larger motors, at this point it would likely be easier to custom build a tubular rear subframe with relocated control arms and use a Tesla unit. The BMW in one of my previous links manages to spin the tyres at almost any speed, I can't see me needing more torque than that in an RX7. Actually, I release I never mentioned weight. From my other link above, removing all of the enginey bits from an RX7 resulted in a weight saving of around 385kg from stock. I don't know if the fuel tank was full or empty at this time. I'll be putting in around 500kg of extra parts, resulting in a car that is around 115kg heavier than stock. I would be able to hopefully maintain the 50/50 weight distribution by suitably dividing the batteries between the front and rear of the car. The insane increase in torque should make up for this extra weight.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2017 02:27
|
|
|
Does the GS450h transmission in stock form permit all-electric power at all speeds? The Toyota HSD systems I’ve driven or been a passenger in absolutely require the ICE to be on and turning above 45mph or thereabouts, even when coasting or braking, but I’ve never been in one with a MG1/MG2 set as powerful as the 450h. Not that this should be an issue, given that you’re planning a not-stock control system, asking more out of curiosity. A potential actual issue I’m wondering about is heat. In factory form the MGs should only see significant load during acceleration and regen braking, so Toyota may have gotten away without designing in much cooling. Sustained load from high speed cruise might need better cooling. (I haven’t read the links about similar projects, so if they addressed this, my ignorance of what they did is showing) BobHoward fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Oct 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2017 03:11
|
|
|
I've never managed to make it above 5mph without the engine starting. It's a true parallel hybrid - it uses the motors and engine at all times except for creeping at the lowest speeds (pulling into a parking spot or crawling in traffic). It's an strange sensation, the car will stop the engine as soon as you let off the gas (however it will run continuously from a cold start until it reaches operating temperatures), and will start immediately when you press the gas pedal. Sometimes the engine will run for less than a second before stopping. I'm not sure how it stores the current crank position - normally a 4 stroke engine should rotate twice to locate the crank and cam shaft positions before firing any injectors. This motor starts and runs instantly with no cranking period, even from cold, and even after having the batteries removed. Heat in the transmission is a potential issue - these motors in stock form never produce significant amounts of power for more than a few seconds, under hard acceleration the engine is producing most of the power. The small external electric oil pump and skinny oil cooler lines appear to be all it has. There are a pair of thicker lines which may be for coolant or another oil cooler, I'll investigate further when I actually have a look at the unit. I'm planning on feeding the hot oil output into a heat exchanger to help heat the cabin, and then pass it through the RX7's stock oil coolers, which I may add fans to. There is also the option of a centre oil cooler as well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2017 04:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 2, 2024 20:31 |
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:I've never managed to make it above 5mph without the engine starting. It's a true parallel hybrid - it uses the motors and engine at all times except for creeping at the lowest speeds (pulling into a parking spot or crawling in traffic). It's an strange sensation, the car will stop the engine as soon as you let off the gas (however it will run continuously from a cold start until it reaches operating temperatures), and will start immediately when you press the gas pedal. Sometimes the engine will run for less than a second before stopping. I'm not sure how it stores the current crank position - normally a 4 stroke engine should rotate twice to locate the crank and cam shaft positions before firing any injectors. This motor starts and runs instantly with no cranking period, even from cold, and even after having the batteries removed. Sounds pretty much like mine (ES300h), my 45mph comment was based on letting off the gas while at speed. If I'm above 45 when I start letting the car coast down, it waits till it's below 45 to actually shut down the engine. Sometimes I can coax it into maintaining ~42-43 on electric only for a while. This has to be on a very flat road or a downward slope, and I have to hold the accelerator pedal very steady since any commanded acceleration will make it turn the engine on again. It is quite eerie how fast and how smooth the engine starts. Another interesting and different thing I'm sure you're well familiar with is that due to the CVT, acceleration (even hard) runs the engine at constant RPM as long as you keep pressure on the accelerator steady. No sawtooth ramping as it goes through gears, just a constant engine note.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2017 04:58
|
|