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mariooncrack posted:I hope I didn't miss a post but has a miata motor with a turbo or supercharger been considered? Probably isn't the power you want but it should fit and I think it'll be reliable enough. I don't know too much about turbo miatas though. I did think about a turbo BP, but the length of a 4 cylinder means I need to hack up the sub frame, move the steering rack and sway bar, and still modify the firewall. Turbo miata motor would be the most "correct" swap though
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Apr 7, 2016 10:47
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Jomo posted:Yessss... Especially like the news that you've found someone to make a gearbox adapter plate for you. Thought now I'm interested in how much firewall modification you'll have to do to get it to fit in nicely. The firewall will need modifying, which is fine, it's whether there is enough space behind it before I hit the heater box. One person did a mx5 BP swap and had to cut a chunk out of the heater box and re-seal it. Suspension? Currently looking at aftermarket ECUs, as the ford/jag ones have some horrible immobilisers that require bringing half the cars electrics along for the ride. Looking at ECU Master right now as you can get a CAN bus version. I wish the speeduino had 6 cylinder support without wasted spark/paired injectors, as I could then likely add a CAN shield and keep it all in one unit. If I do end up using a stock ECU, I plan to add an arduino to read the speed, rpm, temp, oil, etc signals and process them into CAN data for the Mazda to enjoy. Without this I would have no gauges, no ABS, and no power steering. Should I start a new thread or rename this one.. as the lovely Soarer content is lacking.
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Apr 7, 2016 10:56
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:The firewall will need modifying, which is fine, it's whether there is enough space behind it before I hit the heater box. One person did a mx5 BP swap and had to cut a chunk out of the heater box and re-seal it.
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Apr 7, 2016 10:58
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Comedy option: Turbocharged Suzuki Hayabusa Engine. Keeping it glorious nippon and 1300cc. Very light and small compared to most car engines as well. And Revs to about 11000.
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Apr 7, 2016 11:19
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Tapet posted:Comedy option: Turbocharged Suzuki Hayabusa Engine. Keeping it glorious nippon and 1300cc. Very light and small compared to most car engines as well. And Revs to about 11000. Haha that would rule
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Apr 7, 2016 12:29
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http://www.miatabusa.com This will take care of some of the problem.
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Apr 7, 2016 13:24
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Should I start a new thread or rename this one.. as the lovely Soarer content is lacking. Keep this one. I'm sure if you ask nicely you could have Phone rename it if you really wanted to.
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Apr 7, 2016 13:28
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mariooncrack posted:Keep this one. I'm sure if you ask nicely you could have Phone rename it if you really wanted to. Maybe I'm missing  here...
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Apr 7, 2016 16:03
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Phone is an AI mod? Cool. And hayabusa engine?  let me do some research. Cuse they are bound to be renesis size and revving to 11k would be a good match for the gearing and final drive ratio.
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Apr 7, 2016 16:25
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Larrymer posted:Maybe I'm missing ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Phone is an AI mod? Cool. Now that I think about it more, I mouths confused IOC and phone. Oops. Regardless,I think you can have a mod change the thread title.
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Apr 7, 2016 16:34
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:The only v8s we have which are affordable are Toyota, rover, and BMW units. What about AJ8s? Those things are tiny and they've got to be getting reasonable in price, they've been around for 20 years now.
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Apr 7, 2016 17:28
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Sorry, you're right - I blanked on the Jag motors there. The 4.2 supercharged motor from the XKR is a beast and can be had for less than a grand. In other news, it's hard to gauge a price on Hayabusa engines. "around £1000" seems to crop up a lot. I'll check out some of the Miata conversions and see how horrible it is to get that output shaft to mate to a flywheel.
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Apr 7, 2016 19:59
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I'll check out some of the Miata conversions and see how horrible it is to get that output shaft to mate to a flywheel. Lol. No Hayabusa engines
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Apr 8, 2016 10:22
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No news on the engine front (still doing new house things), but I bought a useful thing which I will need! As new, 1/3 of the retail price, and includes a gas bottle and regulator. That should do for now!
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Apr 9, 2016 00:17
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Picked up the MIG welder today. The guy was awesome, he was moving from a large house with a garage to a smaller house with no garage and was selling off all his larger tools for 'it needs to go' money. As well as the MIG welder, the threw in welding gloves, a small CO2 bottle, an auto-dim mask, a fire extinguisher for free, plus he sold me a chop saw, circular saw, huge fuckoff vice, a SDS drill and a bench grinder for next to nothing. Amazingly, it all fits inside a Soarer. The wankeler awaits..... 
Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Apr 12, 2016 |
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Apr 12, 2016 01:27
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Began stripping the green UZZ32 for parts today. I'm hoping to beat my record of 20 hours to get from a full UZZ32 to a bare shell. I doubt I'll manage it as I don't have all my tools at my new place yet. Engine hoist and stand arrive tomorrow (much excitement!). These will come in handy again when I move onto the Mazduar. So far, I'm about 5 hours in. I managed to strip most of the engine bay and interior today. Just the rear seats and rear trim bits in the interior, and a few bits in the engine bay (brake master, washer bottle, etc). The slow items (dashboard, suspension pipework, engine pipes and wiring) are all done, and all of the fluids have been 'drained' as best as I can. Draining the fluids took the best part of 2 hours! (and there will still be a load in the long lines to the rear subframe, woo!) Most of the items in this picture have been unbolted and are sitting in place as I'm short on storage right now. My garage is full of various types of house flooring. 
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Apr 20, 2016 23:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:No, I mean, like, house projects. Kiss your free time goodbye. You were so loving right  All that has happened car-wise in the last 2 weeks is this:   Farewell, 66,000 mile 1991 (thick rod ) 1UZ! The seller is putting it in a Pajero, and is frankentransmissioning it with parts from this trans. Sounds like a pretty cool project.Everything is now going to sit for at least another 3 weeks while I finish off the house. I decided to do all the house projects at the same time, so that when it's done, it's done. However, it's still not done.
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May 5, 2016 10:41
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[quote="ShittyPostmakerPro" I decided to do all the house projects at the same time, so that when it's done, it's done. [/quote] Lol. Hurry up so you can build me a diesel RX8 (DX8?) And upset people who care.
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May 5, 2016 11:00
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I'm now looking for compact diesel V6 engines around the 230hp mark. There are so many reports of the RX8 6-speed being made of glass, due to it being behind a low torque, high RPM nacho-spinner. I did briefly think about putting a diesel in, but the extra torque from a diesel V6 (and I'm still convinced V6 is the best way to go, to avoid the extra chassis modifications) would probably not end well. The obvious solution is a NC MX5 transmission, but £££.
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May 5, 2016 11:51
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I was actually going to ask what had gone on recently, seems I haven't missed much but then houses are the loving worst for eating up free time.
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May 5, 2016 12:01
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April and May are quiet months for me work-wise, so this is a good time to get everything done with the house - otherwise I would be chasing projects for the rest of the year. It would be nice to have the RX8 done for the summer. But lol. Maybe summer
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May 5, 2016 14:20
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Everything is now going to sit for at least another 3 weeks while I finish off the house. I decided to do all the house projects at the same time, so that when it's done, it's done. However, it's still not done. There is always more, and it is always worse. But you can reach equilibrium.
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May 5, 2016 14:27
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I'm now looking for compact diesel V6 engines around the 230hp mark. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AJD-V6/PSA_DT17 It would have to be the 3.0, or you'd be limited to ~205hp in stock form. Maybe 230-240hp realistically with a remap.
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May 5, 2016 20:25
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:The seller is putting it in a Pajero, and is frankentransmissioning it with parts from this trans. Sounds like a pretty cool project. Why's he selling it, then? 
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May 6, 2016 03:35
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Not much to report - working 27 days a month and having a house to renovate is eating up all of my car time. However I did buy myself a new daily driver to give the Soarer a break: It's fast.
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Jun 8, 2016 00:07
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drat, nice GS. Looked at a few of those but they were still a bit out of my price range so we got the LS instead. Not complaining though, these cars are awesome. I'm seriously thinking about replacing the Camry with a RX300 and turning it into an urban assault CUV Although I've read that the V6's in the RX300 have sludge issues, is that accurate?
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Jun 8, 2016 00:25
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I hadn't heard about the sludging before, but it appears so: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-1st-to-4th-gen-1990-2006/262014-toyota-settles-on-oil-sludge-lawsuit-es300-and-rx300.html I did briefly look at RX's, but the 400h was out of my price range and I fancied a hybrid this time around. Edit: I did a bit of checking to see if the GS450h motor suffers from the same issue - it doesn't, but Wikipedia had some intersting info on it: quote:The 2GR-FSE is a 3.5L engine used in the Lexus IS, GS 350, Mark X and Crown incorporate Toyota's latest D-4S twin injection fuel system. This system combines direct injection (949cc/min injectors) with traditional port injection (298cc/min injectors). Direct injection lowers the tendency to knock (detonation) and increases performance by reducing the charge intake temperature. Traditionally, direct injection engines require an in-engine mechanism such as swirl ports or specific piston crown shapes to increase air turbulence in the engine. These are in place to help achieve a homogeneous air-fuel mixture inside the cylinder at low RPM and high load, but these mechanisms inhibit performance at higher engine speeds. In the 2GR-FSE, port injection is used considerably to achieve the correct mixture without having in-engine restrictions, meaning the engine achieves specific power near the top of all naturally aspirated production gasoline engines in the world (67 kW/L, 235 kW in the Mark X). Toyota also developed a new type of injector for this engine. The dual fan spray pattern of the direct injectors is perpendicular to the piston travel with wide dispersion in the cylinder, which aids air and fuel mixture and therefore increases power and efficiency. The port injectors not only help improve the power and efficiency but they also help improve emissions, especially in the first 20 seconds after start-up (when the catalytic converter is in its warm-up stage). Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 06:24
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If it's the 1MZ-FE, yeah, they are sludge prone in the top end. Something about the head design prevents oil from draining fully from the heads. You have to be religious about oil changes on them, but you can pull one of the valve covers and look.
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Jun 8, 2016 07:04
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I hadn't heard about the sludging before, but it appears so: Welp so much for those, not worth the risk. I was looking into newer, low mileage Scion XB's as well so probably gonna go that route.
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Jun 8, 2016 15:36
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leica posted:I was looking into newer, low mileage Scion XB's as well so probably gonna go that route. I'm about to buy one for the family, watch out for the 08-09's with the oil consumption issues.
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Jun 9, 2016 22:37
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Bibendum posted:I'm about to buy one for the family, watch out for the 08-09's with the oil consumption issues. Ah gently caress. Is it a problem that Scion has confirmed? If you have any good links to the info that would be great, otherwise I'll just do some searching It seems like every model has some sort of quirk to avoid at one point or another over it's production and trying to avoid buying the year/generation with that one nagging issue is a PITA. Glad I know about this one now. [edit] After a bit of researching I thought it was odd that the problem only exists in the first couple of years of the XB2, even though it continues to use the same motor through all years of the model (2AZ-FE) and sure enough, there are still issue in later years cropping up. Probably due to the later years going up in mileage I would imagine. So gently caress that, not taking a risk on getting a motor that's going to start consuming a quart of oil ever 1k miles. I'm just going to get a manual Honda Accord I guess 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jun 10, 2016 |
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Jun 10, 2016 00:50
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Is the sludging thing avoidable with synthetic oil and frequent changes? I'm curious because the early versions of my car's engine were prone to similar things, mostly due to a badly designed PCV system and Saab saying in the manual that part-synthetic oil was okay. It wasn't.
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Jun 10, 2016 14:40
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From what I've read it doesn't matter, cars that had been regularly maintained at the dealer still had problems and required engine replacement.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:51
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Is the sludging thing avoidable with synthetic oil and frequent changes? Valve covers haven't been off in a long time, but last time they were off, there were no signs of sludge on mom's 1MZ-FE (2003 Avalon). She bought it new, and it's had religious 5k oil changes with Mobil 1 for its entire life. Owners manual suggests 5k oil changes, but mentions nothing of synthetic (just says to use 5W30 API SL oil). Only issues that engine has are oil leaks and a slight top end tick at idle (but it's been ticking since around 80k or so, it has 150k now - hasn't gotten any worse in that time).
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Jun 11, 2016 07:20
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That's interesting. I'd bet that the dealer serviced ones that leica mentioned didn't use full synthetic if it isn't mentioned in the manual, but that's the most important thing in the Saab engines that are prone to sludge, so I guess its not surprising that one that's used Mobil 1 its whole life looks good. I'm tearing into my engine right now actually, and the oil varnish and coked up deposits are quite tough and a little scary. Granted the thing has 180k on it.
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Jun 13, 2016 14:19
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Did some work on the GS today. I bought some leather cleaner and spent around 4 hours cleaning all the grot off/out of the seats. I also cleaned up the rest of the interior, the trunk, and the inside of the windows. You can kinda see a before/after on this seat. It looks pretty great in person and the seats feel much nicer to the touch.  The interior in general:   The car was fitted with an aftermarket phone kit. I removed this - fortunately it was professionally fitted with plug-in looms, rather than cut/spliced factory wiring. The 'handle' for the trunk floor had come loose and was flapping around. It has a strange hinged design and looks like it was once meant to lie flat against the floor, yet be able to be lifted up when needed. I glued it to itself with some solvent cement - replacements are only £7, but the lovely new Toyota design will only fail again.  I also re-attached these prone-to-falling-off bump stops on the trunk hinges, using some butyl tape smushed into a thin strip and then gently caressed into the clip  I cleaned out the engine bay and the associated plastic covers. All of the clips for these were missing, fortunately, Soarer clips fit just fine, and I have plenty of those lying around... Before and after and after-with-covers...    I still need to vacuum the bits of tree out of the windshield cowl. Fluids looked good - the coolant, inverter coolant, and brake fluid all look good as new. This car was last serviced by the dealer 15k ago. The oil was apparently changed 3k ago. The oil is very dark, smells like petrol, and was well below the 'MIN' line on the dipstick. The handbook states that 1 litre of oil per 600miles is acceptable. I disagree, but whatever. there are many types of oil listed as compatible, and no mention of syhtheticness required. I still have loads of 5W-30 fully synthetic oil left over from when I owned a Legnum VR4, so I guess I'll start using that. These cars use a cartridge filter which will lower the cost for future oil changes. The engine bay was covered in a fine mist of oil, and the under-bonnet insulation was missing. The never-covered parts of the bonnet were coated in oil. I guess this car was driven with the oil cap off at some point.  The AC filter was filthy and will need changing. Filters are £35 each. Thanks, Toyota! On the subject of AC, what is this thing in my AC line?  One final area to look at on this car is the transmission. These cars have a pair of electric motors in place of a conventional transmission, yet they still carry ATF to provide lubrication and cooling. As the engine is not always running during operation, an auxiliary electric oil pump is fitted to circulate the ATF during electric-only driving. This pump contains two bearings which are prone to failure, causing the motor to seize. This triggers a code, shuts down the hybrid system, and if left unchecked, will burn out the (expensive!) pump motor controller. The solution is here: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/91739-gs450h-loss-of-power/ So, I guess I'll add some bearings and some (extra fancy) Toyota ATF to my shopping list! My current list of parts to buy for this car is: AC filter (dealer) Oil filters (x many) (dealer) 5l of ATF-WS fluid (dealer) more 5w-30 synthetic oil hood insulation and associated clips (wreckers) bearings for oil pump I've already ordered the oil pump bearings, and put in a request through amayama.com for the dealer-only bits (because, as discussed, it's always better to Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Jun 13, 2016 |
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Jun 13, 2016 20:07
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Not much to report - I'm currently working every drat day (my last full day off was May 13th!), but I managed to get some service parts for the Lexus. Parts haul. Those drat spark plugs retail at £15-£20 each! I bought one cheap non-standard oil filter out of curiosity as it was 1/4 the price of a genuine one for a genuine one. After comparing the quality (and reading Ironblocks Datsun thread), I decided that the Toyota filter was the best bet...  First up - oil. Replacing a cartridge filter is a different experience - I learnt that all of my regular oil filter tools are useless on the aluminium filter cap. A large pipe wrench ended up being the 'correct' tool for the job.  I opened up the oil filter - there were a few shiny bits in there, hopefully nothing to worry about. I sent a sample to one of these fancy oil analysis places, so lets see how hosed this engine is.  Next up was the spark plugs:  The spark plug replacement got a little bit more in depth than I had planned...   So who here knows what my spark plugs are telling me? Hopefully it's "we're fine" or "time to change us" and nothing more sinister       I also replace the air filter (not pictured) and the cabin filter. The old one was dated 2014, and looks pretty done for:  All of this was done during the weekend. Just in time for a milestone!  I've ordered enough ATF to refill the transmission after I replace the bearings in its auxiliary oil pump. I've also ordered a TPMS reseal kit for when I change the tyres (soon! I have 2mm of tread on the fronts, and unbranded on the rear) and a fuel filler cap. The fuel filler cap purchase is the result of the car throwing several 'CHECK' lights while disabling the hybrid system, cruise control, dynamic suspension and steering, etc. Which was quite troubling until I checked online to find that the cause is often a worn sealing o-ring or sealing spring in the fuel filler cap. I guess it's an emissions related error which then snowballs into many others. In RX8 news, I'm currently in talks with someone who is selling a Jaaaaaaaaaaaaag.
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Jul 26, 2016 22:24
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The donor vehicle for the It is somewhat spectacular:  eBay link and description: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142041362506 No pictures of the underneath (because I'm dumb), but I can confirm that it has straight pipes and that the rear subframe is no longer attached to the car. I have since found out that the car was General-Lee'd over a bridge. The PO managed to punch a hole in the oil pan while loading it, despite there being a perfectly usable crossmember 3 inches in font of it. The steering lock is electric, and I've yet to find out how to disable it. Getting it onto my driveway was interesting. Some pictures. The stripped interior (with the interior of another car thrown in)     The 3.0 V6 engine, aka the only reason that this....thing is on my driveway.  Matching bomber jackets for the pilot and copilot  Today I pulled the radiator along with various engine compartment components that were in the way. I pulled the wiring through from the trunk (the battery is in there), with a plan to pull the entire harness. I did try to start the car, but it won't turn over, I think my battery may be dead, or it could be something to do with the missing interior and many plugs without homes. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jul 30, 2016 |
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Jul 30, 2016 19:57
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I'm currently really confused as to what exactly is going on in this thread any more. 
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Jul 31, 2016 11:55
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I'm loving every post.
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Jul 31, 2016 13:48
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