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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:In the UK our temperatures are generally between -10C and 25C, neither extreme is a problem for LPG. Going colder may be more of an issue. The problem would be whether your engine can generate enough heat to vapourise the propane fast enough, or rather, if your reducer is large enough to handle it. Seriously over speccing a reducer (i.e. one designed to run a 400hp engine on a 200hp car) would probably help. Even with hot coolant running through them, I've seen pictures of frost forming on the outside of the reducer bodies on humid days, even above 0C. To revive LPG chat from January, the tank itself could have a hard time dealing with the cold. In cold temperatures the liquid propane has a hard time vaporizing, as stated with regards to its use at the engine, but this is also true in the tank. It probably has more of an effect in the cylinders that draw from the vapor space, but the system might have a hard time self pressurizing. They can temporarily run themselves out of available pressure. This is obviously especially a problem on smaller cylinders.
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Apr 6, 2016 19:38
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 13:03 |
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Is the sludging thing avoidable with synthetic oil and frequent changes? I'm curious because the early versions of my car's engine were prone to similar things, mostly due to a badly designed PCV system and Saab saying in the manual that part-synthetic oil was okay. It wasn't.
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Jun 10, 2016 14:40
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That's interesting. I'd bet that the dealer serviced ones that leica mentioned didn't use full synthetic if it isn't mentioned in the manual, but that's the most important thing in the Saab engines that are prone to sludge, so I guess its not surprising that one that's used Mobil 1 its whole life looks good. I'm tearing into my engine right now actually, and the oil varnish and coked up deposits are quite tough and a little scary. Granted the thing has 180k on it.
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Jun 13, 2016 14:19
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