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If it's an M813, an Opel GT will fit in the back with 6 inches to spare. That thing is *rusty*. Kudos for getting it back on the road instead of crushing it.
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Aug 21, 2015 22:19
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Hopefully my truck will be roadworthy by the time we go to put up new fencing because I can't wait to tell the HD employees "just put it in the bed, it'll fit" and listen to them laugh and tell me I'm nuts before bringing the truck over. Speaking of Bridgeports, you guys need to build yourselves a ginpole/A-frame bumper attachment. Soooo useful. I think I have $100 into the metal and $80 for the 2 ton chainfall at HF.  2900lb and the truck barely even moved.
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Jun 16, 2016 18:44
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It's literally just two ten-foot pieces of 2" steel pipe from the plumbing aisle of Home Depot (~35 bucks each), a small piece of 2x2 1/4-wall box tubing at the top with two tabs and a piece of 1" cold-roll round bar for the chainfall to hang from, another larger piece of 2x2 1/4-wall box tubing at the bottom to tie the two legs of the A-frame together, with two double shear 1/4-wall box tubing brackets for the stock 5-ton recovery points, all welded together. I use 1" grade 8 bolts as pins that go through the tabs on the base of the A-frame and the stock D-ring recovery mount holes. A piece of steel cable or a long-rear end 20k lb recovery strap to the rear hitch keeps it from falling forward. I'll probably put a winch and a sheave on the bed at some point so I can raise and lower the A-frame without dinking around in the bed. I was very careful when placing the mounting ears at the base so that they would also fit the front bumper on my Comanche, since it has 1" hole recovery points as well. This is not really useful information to anyone else, unless they also own an M39A2 series 5-ton (not sure if recovery point spacing is the same on M800 series or M900 series) and built their MJ's bumper exactly how I did. Here's all the photos I have... should give you a better idea than my spew of  did probably. You guys can probably fab one up in a weekend, once given the idea. Also, mount your cold-roll round bar for the chainfall on longer ears from the top 2x2 crossbar, I have to finagle my chainfall onto it. Even another half inch would make it easy.This is about the best pic of it in use overall.  Here's the business end where the chainfall hooks on. Make those ears about half to 1 inch longer... this side faces down when in use. Maybe put another similar set of ears opposite these ones (mirrored around the A-frame, not the square tube) to hook the cable stay to, but I just loop it around the 2x2 box tubing between the chainfall hanging ears.  And unfortunately this is the best pic I have of the lower mounting tabs and brace that go to the recovery points on the truck's front bumper. I'll try to take better ones this weekend if you need them.  I think I have maybe 100 bucks in materials and a few hours in time into it, complete, not including the cable stay or the chainfall. Easily worth it, I basically gave my engine hoist to ACEofsnett and have used nothing but this since then. I have no doubt it'd lift the 4000lb my chainfall is rated for, if attached to a suitably heavy vehicle and stayed appropriately to the rear bumper or hitch. It can only handle about a thousand pounds if mounted to the MJ, unless I fill the bed with scrapmetal ballast. e: oh yeah, putting it on the truck is a two-person job unless you design the bumper mounting ears better so it will lean all the way down onto the ground at the tip, or are clever or determined. I have to balance the tip on a spare tire or stack of cement blocks while wrestling the two 1" bolt shear pins through its mounting ears and the bumper recovery points unless I have someone around to hold it up and maneuver it till the bolts line up. Raising it is also somewhat annoying, I recommend a winch or a 2" 10,000lb ratchet strap. It's not ideal, but for $100 plus a chainfall and some straps I already had, it does 90% of the job every time. kastein fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Aug 25, 2016 |
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Aug 25, 2016 00:12
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