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ZincBoy posted:Thanks, I had not found that link. It does confirm the 309 filler and the pre-heat is something that other sites had indicated as being unneeded. I think I will go with a pre-heat cycle. Somebody sells blockoff plates for these, I think Turner Motorsports. I was going to get them for my swap, but I couldn't be bothered. The PO of the motor welded up the channels with something and then sanded them smooth. Mine are OEM manifolds, though, and I don't know what he used.
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Sep 14, 2015 05:27
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UF/anyone familiar, two questions: 1. Where's the best place to buy a decent oxy/acetylene rig? I'll be using this primarily for welding random poo poo/drawing dicks on metal with filler rod but also some cutting. I checked my local Craigslist and most of them are either asking full price or beat to hell. Looking for something like this:  2. Is Airgas pretty much the place to get fuel? I've got one around me, but interested in what people doing this for a living think. Is Airgas a place you can walk around and browse like a Tractor Supply or more of a Grainger-style "trades only" kind of deal?
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Sep 22, 2015 02:05
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I found a local shop to do my business, the air gas people weren't the most pleasant to deal with. Also, check out the price between an 80cf bottle and a 150cf bottle. My 150cf bottle was 236 filled, vs 80 was around 220ish. The only advantage is portability, but if you make a cart, then there is no worry.
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Sep 22, 2015 02:36
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Jared592 posted:2. Is Airgas pretty much the place to get fuel? I've got one around me, but interested in what people doing this for a living think. Is Airgas a place you can walk around and browse like a Tractor Supply or more of a Grainger-style "trades only" kind of deal? They have a tiny showroom in the front of the warehouse. I've only been in there once, to get stick electrodes, but the dude pointed me to the section and I grabbed the thing and was rung up as a walk-in customer. Not sure if there is a discount for having an account (wouldn't be surprised), and I assume they could get stuff out of the back if you need something not on display.
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Sep 22, 2015 02:46
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Thanks fellas. A portable kit like that has a 20 cubic ft. (size OC20) oxygen tank and 10 cubic foot (size MC) acetylene tank. The Airgas website quotes $23.94 to fill the oxygen tank and $30.90 to fill the acetylene tank, so ~$60 to have some dick-around fuel. Doesn't seem too bad for something that'll sit in a shed for most of the time. As an aside: man, tank sizes/capacities are confusing. I must've seen 10 different ways to refer to a tank size, and for some reason the tank size system used for acetylene is different from the one used for oxygen.
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Sep 22, 2015 03:41
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sharkytm posted:That looks like a decent spot for Silicone Bronze filler, or even Tig-braze. You'd need a lot less heat. This is a great suggestion and if I had some Silicone Bronze rod, I would have gone with this. The only problem is that I could only buy a 4.54kg box of rods from the LWS for $220. A more than I wanted to spend. charliemonster42 posted:Somebody sells blockoff plates for these, I think Turner Motorsports. I was going to get them for my swap, but I couldn't be bothered. The PO of the motor welded up the channels with something and then sanded them smooth. Mine are OEM manifolds, though, and I don't know what he used. Yes. That is the easy way. Since the channel between the exhaust ports is there normally and doesn't cause an issue it should be fine. Unfortunately, this would bother me forever. So I need to fill in the connection between the ports. It is possible I have a touch of OCD. After obtaining some 309 filler rod, I filled in the SAP channels using a few passes with the TIG:  Please forgive my crappy TIG welds. I made the sin of dipping the tungsten in this one and contaminated the weld. I don't think it matters in this application but it does bother me. Of course filling this in caused the flange to warp. I measured about 0.015 of distortion so not too bad. The next step is of course to get the flange back to flat. I will use a surface grinder to bring the whole flange face back to the correct plane. The problem is how do you hold the manifold to grind it? The answer is to build a fixture. The challenge is to hold the manifold using only the stud holes and the bottom side of the flange. The whole top side must remain clear as it will be ground. Clamping is out as there are no square surfaces to hold. The solution I came up with is to use four posts with expanding clamps in each of the perimeter mounting holes. The posts would be welded to a steel base plate that can be attached to the magnetic chuck on the grinder. First, make the expanding plug blanks on a lathe. These plugs are 0.002" smaller than the holes in the flange.  Next, Dremel slots in the blanks.  Mount the expanding clamps on the posts already cut to size. A 8-32 flat head screw was used to actuate the clamp as it was the largest screw head that would fit in the header flange holes. The hole in the expanding clamp was drilled out to 0.25" to allow for misalignment in the jig.  The next step was to use the expanding clamps to attach all four posts to the header flange. Once all four posts were solidly attached to the flange, the header and posts were clamped to a steel plate. The posts were then welded to the plate and the whole setup was allowed to cool. Once cool, the jig was placed on the grinder magnetic chuck and the tops of the posts were ground so they were in the same plane. Surprisingly, I only had to grind off about 0.010" to get them all flat. After grinding the expanded plugs were re-attached:  The high points of the weld were knocked off with an angle grinder and the header was mounted:  After grinding 0.018" from the face:  A closeup of the filled SAP channels:  Checking for flatness after grinding, I found about 0.0002" out of flatness using a dial indicator. After removing from the fixture, I can't fit a 0.001" feeler gauge under any part of a straight edge across any part of the header. This should be flat enough  The surface finish is not the greatest and suffered due to the lack of the correct grinding wheel for stainless. I used a general purpose wheel and it did not work that well with stainless. The second header was ground using the same fixture and turned out the same way.
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Sep 26, 2015 05:45
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Until I saw the close up, I thought you'd engine-turned the mating surface.
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Sep 26, 2015 07:09
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Looks great to me, that surface finish may even grab the manifold gasket surface better than stock.
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Sep 28, 2015 22:24
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ZincBoy posted:This is a great suggestion and if I had some Silicone Bronze rod, I would have gone with this. The only problem is that I could only buy a 4.54kg box of rods from the LWS for $220. A more than I wanted to spend. I wish you had asked, I've got a bunch I could have sent you. Also: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=337-8527&PMPXNO=28298980&PARTPG=INLMK32 $19 for a 1 pound pack from ENCO.
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Sep 29, 2015 02:15
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ZincBoy posted:Machine-work porn. Wow, that looks fantastic! Where are you located? If you're local to the SF Bay Area, would I perhaps be able to twist your arm into doing mine? The job that was done on mine is not nearly that clean.
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Sep 29, 2015 04:56
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sharkytm posted:I wish you had asked, I've got a bunch I could have sent you. Also: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=337-8527&PMPXNO=28298980&PARTPG=INLMK32 I appreciate the offer. I didn't think of that. The Enco link has a much better price and amount. Now I just need to find someone in Canada that supplies it like that. charliemonster42 posted:Wow, that looks fantastic! Where are you located? If you're local to the SF Bay Area, would I perhaps be able to twist your arm into doing mine? The job that was done on mine is not nearly that clean. Sorry, I am up in Ontario, Canada. It would probably cost way more than it is worth to ship the headers both ways. If anyone needs this done in the GTA let me know. Most of the work was making the fixture and figuring out how to do it. Running more of them would not be a big deal. The headers have been mounted in the car and seem to be leak free. Worth the effort I guess.
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Oct 2, 2015 05:04
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Any tips for not blowing holes in really old sheet metal? God drat, today's rust cut out and replacement absolutely sucked balls. Fwiw I'm using a Hobart auto arc 130. Gas is at 20cfm (75 argon, 25 co2) and I'm running .030 linweld 70-6 wire.
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Oct 3, 2015 01:58
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You could try .023 welding wire, just make sure the metal is wire brushed or sanded completely bare.
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Oct 3, 2015 07:23
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What are your wire speed and voltage setting at? You might be able to find a lower setting that works. You can also try moving faster with no weave or just doing quick tacks. If you can get behind the piece you could use a piece of aluminum as a backing strip. That will keep blow throughs down and it wont stick to the weld.
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Oct 3, 2015 09:43
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I'm buying a welder sometime in the next two weeks and I have it down to two, a Lincoln 210MP and a Hobart Ironman 230. I'd like to be able to get almost all my welding done with one decent machine so I'm leaning towards the Lincoln. The first project is going to be bodywork on a superbeetle, then the majority of the work will be repairing and fabricating equipment. I also see some exhaust fabrication in my future so the TIG looks like it would be a nice thing to have. http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K4195-2%28LincolnElectric%29 http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/ironman230/ The place I usually buy my gas from said they could put together some sort of package deal with the Lincoln, but then the Hobart has a higher duty cycle. Does anyone have any opinion on the quality of either of these or any advice? As for the burning through thing clean it really really good, its so much easier welding clean metal.
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Oct 4, 2015 00:32
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As an NDT inspector, I love these threads. But also hate them.
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Oct 4, 2015 00:45
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SpeedFreek posted:I'm buying a welder sometime in the next two weeks and I have it down to two, a Lincoln 210MP and a Hobart Ironman 230. I'd like to be able to get almost all my welding done with one decent machine so I'm leaning towards the Lincoln. The first project is going to be bodywork on a superbeetle, then the majority of the work will be repairing and fabricating equipment. I also see some exhaust fabrication in my future so the TIG looks like it would be a nice thing to have. I would go with the Lincoln. The price is too close to the hobart to not have the other welding options it has. All you get with the Hobart is Mig and flux core. The Lincoln does Mig, flux core, stick, and tig. Both have spool gun options for aluminum. Two other things I think the Lincoln has going for it are the smaller size and the interface on it. Also note that you may need separate gas bottles for mig and tig. Mig is usually used with 25% or 100% CO2 and Tig uses 100% Argon. You can use 100% argon with Mig but you'll have reduced penetration.
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Oct 7, 2015 13:52
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The first project would be a cart that can hold two bottles, my gas place usually gives me a great deal on cash transactions so a second bottle shouldn't be too expensive. Anything I buy will be better than my buzzbox, I've made a lot of tools and such with the thing but its such a hassle working on smaller gauge. Thanks for the input.
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Oct 15, 2015 01:06
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My hackerspace got a Miller Dynasty 280DX tig welder, and I started learning on it. TGAW is awesome, and boy am I bad at it!
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Nov 3, 2015 21:11
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There's a welding supply store and a sheet metal store in my neighborhood. A mile from my house. God help my wallet. Never done any welding of any kind before, but I'm taking my first class this month and am an experienced solderer (kind of the same, not really the same). As you can expect, if full advantage is to be taken of those two shops I've linked, I'll need a welder. Are there any brands to avoid? I'd rather not spend more than $500, but if that's an unreasonably small amount of money for a welder, I'm willing to spend money on quality tools. Craigslist is also fair game if used welders aren't problematic.
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Nov 11, 2015 18:20
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If the Tools thread is to be believed, pick up the 120V MIG welder from Harbor Freight. Throw out any wire that came with it, and get 50lbs of Lincoln wire. That'll get you up and As you start getting bigger, you start having to run 240V service to your garage, which gets spendy.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:01
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Miller, Hobart, Lincoln are the go to units. But it depends on what your doing too, miller seems to be a bit better in the mig department, but Lincoln seems to be the best stick machines. Hobart's are last years Miller's - just a slightly dated design at a much lower price tag with good components. I'd say get in class and learn what process you want to do first before you sink a ton of money. Edit: this is like a compressor, get the biggest you can afford and use. Skipping out to a low end machine is always going to make you wish you had more. If you don't have 220, get the best 110 machine you can afford, it will go a long way. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 19:03
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Safety Dance posted:If the Tools thread is to be believed, pick up the 120V MIG welder from Harbor Freight. Throw out any wire that came with it, and get 50lbs of Lincoln wire. That'll get you up and That's in the garage already, the 240V outlet. Undoubtedly some kind of gearhead owned the garage before me cuz there's a lot of lighting and a fuse box out there, too! BrokenKnucklez posted:Miller, Hobart, Lincoln are the go to units. But it depends on what your doing too, miller seems to be a bit better in the mig department, but Lincoln seems to be the best stick machines. Hobart's are last years Miller's - just a slightly dated design at a much lower price tag with good components.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:07
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Just saw your post, with 220v in the garage, save up and get a 220 machine. I have seen millermatics 250 amp machines go for 1000-1200 used. That should give you more than enough juice to do anything car related.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:12
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Just saw your post, with 220v in the garage, save up and get a 220 machine. I have seen millermatics 250 amp machines go for 1000-1200 used. That should give you more than enough juice to do anything car related.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:14
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Safety Dance posted:If the Tools thread is to be believed, pick up the 120V MIG welder from Harbor Freight. Throw out any wire that came with it, and get 50lbs of Lincoln wire. That'll get you up and Honestly, you can usually find Hobart's MIG ready machines for around $350 new, and it is a much better machine than the HF one. I agree though, if you have 220v, get a 220v machine. Even a 140amp 220v machines welds noticeably nicer than the 110v version. If you're willing to spend the coin, several machines are 110/220 capable. My 110v MIG gets a bunch of use doing exhausts, fences, etc. Things that I just string an extension cord to.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:48
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Yeah, I have a little 110v 100 amp fluxcore for tacking stuff together outside, doing repair work up to ~1/4" in friend's driveways, etc. Anything serious gets tacked up and then brought inside and welded with the 230A MIG. If you start on a 110V machine you really don't know what you're missing till you try the same sort of project on a 220V. It's night and day.
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Nov 11, 2015 22:04
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Fuckit, starting with a 220v, then. Watching these Project Binky videos is very inspiring, and while I know skills like that take a long time to get right, at least I have a goal  I'm gonna have a 318 V8 Mopar RWD Golf/Scirocco if it kills me...
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Nov 11, 2015 22:08
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I can think of so many engines you should use instead of that... and I own one of those. Like, say, a 360, which fits in the same exact spot a 318 came out of. Or any Vortec... (and that's coming from the owner of many Mopar-family products)
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Nov 11, 2015 22:45
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There's a lot I have to learn about those engines, and what it'll probably boil down to is "any small block V8 that is available when I have the money, that's in an okay donor car." Mopar is just the stuff I grew up with and have somewhat romanticized the brand, and I've been taken a bit with VW, so it's just one of those "no reason" things. I started off really small with the displacement because my bench racer brain thought "well that number's smaller, so the engine must be smaller!"
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Nov 11, 2015 22:54
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I've always thought a screaming-rear end high strung 340 would be cool. Be even cooler in a Golf Country 
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Nov 11, 2015 23:30
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GM has the best powertrain/value ratio out of any maker. LSx or the later vortec v8 motors are cheap and make good power for so little money.
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Nov 12, 2015 01:00
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BrokenKnucklez posted:GM has the best powertrain/value ratio out of any maker. LSx or the later vortec v8 motors are cheap and make good power for so little money. Was it Hot Rod magazine that built an LS to like 1,000 horsepower before finding out they had a 5.3 and not a 5.7?
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Nov 12, 2015 01:38
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Enourmo posted:Was it Hot Rod magazine that built an LS to like 1,000 horsepower before finding out they had a 5.3 and not a 5.7? Yes. But it was a 4.8 that they thought was a 5.3
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Nov 12, 2015 01:46
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 Goddamn that's awesome.
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Nov 12, 2015 02:27
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It's even better than I remembered.
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Nov 12, 2015 02:29
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Enourmo posted:Was it Hot Rod magazine that built an LS to like 1,000 horsepower before finding out they had a 5.3 and not a 5.7? Sure, but it was a dyno queen. Get on the power low in the RPM and that thing would blow up so quick...
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Nov 12, 2015 03:36
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BrokenKnucklez posted:GM has the best powertrain/value ratio out of any maker. LSx or the later vortec v8 motors are cheap and make good power for so little money.  Boaz MacPhereson posted:I've always thought a screaming-rear end high strung 340 would be cool. Be even cooler in a Golf Country
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Nov 12, 2015 04:01
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Lets keep the engine chat out, more welding projects! I need to upload some of my latest repairs.
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Nov 12, 2015 04:41
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drat I should have posted a picture of the fence posts I did with my 130 Clarke. They were 1/4" thick and my weaves came out beautifully considering the lack of practice. All the flux curled up and flaked off easily. Too bad the day also included spatter burning through my shirt and getting in the fold of my elbow and lighting my shirt on fire because the MIG torch was so hot. Little MIG was giving it all it had!
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Nov 12, 2015 05:26
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