|
kastein posted:Accidents in the back seat cause babies, babies in the back seat cause accidents.
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2015 18:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 08:51 |
|
|
Raluek posted:Was your first accident also a good memory in the back seat? I wish it was a rear end causing another rear end and a dislocated wrist. Driver broke his nose on the steering wheel.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2015 20:22
|
|
|
I think I had a little bit of an alignment issue on the yellow sedan.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 20:48
|
|
|
The yellow sedan has been giving me lots of grief recently. The fuel pump suddenly up and died last week when I was at my sister's wedding in Pahrump, NV, about 80 miles from my house, and Autozone helpfully gave me exactly the parts I asked for, which ended up being wrong twice. So I had to spend the night at her dad's house, then replace the pump with the correct part and high-tail it home. It hasn't been running correctly for some time, even before the fuel pump went out, so I replaced the filter twice, changed the spark plugs and wires, and gave it an overdue oil change. Those things all helped, as it starts much easier than before, but it still runs roughly at idle, and seems to be down on power. I will be doing a little more troubleshooting this weekend, testing the ignition coils and fuel injectors with my multimeter to see if they're within spec (5-8k ohms on coils, 12-14 ohms on injectors). I can't really think of anything else that would cause it to run like is does. In addition to all this, there is a code 39 stored, which is TCC-related. When the converter is locked, the car shakes violently. The effect is much more pronounced in fourth gear than it is in third, so I've been treating the car as if it has a three speed, staying out of fourth entirely. The final drive is tall enough (2.73) that it's not terrible on the highway in third. Some research says that the fix for a code 39 is to replace the TCC solenoid, which is a right kick in the dick to do on the four speed. And I haven't even looked at the white wagon to find out where the transmission leak is. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 06:11
|
|
|
The TCC solenoid is a common as hell issue on FWD V6 GMs of that era. You could do what I did to a couple of friend's cars - unplug the drat thing and forget it existed. On both of their cars, it had gotten to the point where the solenoid would lock up at highway speeds, then refuse to unlock until the transmission cooled down considerably (preceded by the shuddering you have now). The CEL didn't come on on either of them afterwards, and the only noticeable downside was a slight drop in highway MPG. I'd assume trans temps would go up a little, but you're typically moving at a pretty good clip by the time the TCC is trying to lock up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 08:30
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:The TCC solenoid is a common as hell issue on FWD V6 GMs of that era. I keep hearing that it's fine to do that on the three speeds, but the fluid will overheat on the four speed and blow the hell up. I can't find any evidence for or against. The CEL light does come on, then goes off, then on and off at random when the trans wiring harness is unhooked.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 08:49
|
|
|
TCC solenoid went on my 1988 Delta 88 with the 3800 V6. Instead of replacing it, I added one of those $20 ebay transmission/oil coolers to supplement the stock one, and unplugged the TCC solenoid wires and drove it another 7 years in mountainous Idaho. I'd still be driving that car today had the freeze plugs not all decided to rust out at once and a cheaper car (1995 Plymouth Acclaim with the 3.0 V6) became available immediately.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 11:04
|
|
|
FWIW, my ex's V6 Cavalier wagon with the 4 speed auto kept right on going for several years with it unplugged. Granted, he didn't beat on it (I sure as hell did anytime I drove it though, I WANTED that miserable pile to die, just so I wouldn't have to work on the drat thing again). The CEL only came on at startup, but it was also a 91 or 92 if I remember right. It was a smaller V6 though - I think a 2.8? Like Geirskogul said, you can likely just add a cooler to it to deal with the extra heat. And if it does blow up, well, it's not exactly an uncommon transmission.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 11:11
|
|
|
After putting it off for going on three weeks, I finally just broke down and crawled under the white wagon to find out the cause of the enormous transmission leak. Click for larger, please. As some of you may recall, earlier in the year, I took a trip to Kansas and towed a trailer full of my mother-in-law's stuff back to Las Vegas. Naturally, I had a hitch and external transmission cooler installed by U-Haul at the same time. The image above is the meeting between the stock trans cooler line and the hose going to the external cooler. What appears to have occurred is the metal tube joining the two hoses popped out, and the trans oil pump dutifully pumped most of the fluid onto the street while I was driving. As you can see, the end of the metal tube is not flared, so the hose clamp had nothing to hang on to. What's surprising is that it lasted this long. I brought this to the attention of the manager of the U-Haul store. He was skeptical at first when I showed him that picture, but when I removed the hose from the car and presented it to him, he was incredibly accommodating. Since he is not a mechanic, he said to take the metal bit to a shop and have it flared (I don't own a flaring tool) and bring him the receipt, and I will be recompensated. I did just that, but the flared end ended up being too large to fit back in the rubber hose. I then went to a hardware store and purchased a barbed fitting, 5/16" on each end, which solved the whole leak problem. It took six quarts to bring the fluid back to a useable level. I have driven the car about 40 miles, including steady highway cruising, and it seems to be mostly okay. However, I believe it may have sustained some damage in this whole thing. The shift from first to second is not the same as it was before. It slips more, behaving much like the old transmission this one replaced did. I considered adding some Lucas additive this morning, but the fluid level is good, and I don't want to overfill it. I asked the U-Haul manager what steps we would need to take if damage had occurred to my transmission. His response was that "U-Haul Legal" would then have to be involved. I think U-Haul Legal may have to be involved.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 19:44
|
|
|
Yeah that sounds about par for the course with U-Haul. I'm a little surprised their franchises will even accept the liability for installing a tranny cooler. Dude who did the install totally knew he hosed up too, check out that double overtightened hose clamp action. Couple years ago we rented a U-Haul car hauler trailer for a long-distance run and ended up having to inflate all four tires, re-do the wiring (including the tail lights) and repack the wheel bearings which came to us dry. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jan 3, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2016 19:47
|
|
|
I have opened a claim with U-haul's insurance company. That's probably all I am legally allowed to disclose at this point now.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2016 22:33
|
|
|
Left Ventricle posted:I have opened a claim with U-haul's insurance company. That's probably all I am legally allowed to disclose at this point now. All told, though, that's by far the best outcome from a huge fluid dump!
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2016 23:12
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
U-haul does more than install hitches!? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2016 00:09
|
|
|
Goober Peas posted:U-haul does more than install hitches!? Seriously. If some Uhaul monkey offered to install a trans cooler in my car I'd probably laugh in his face.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2016 02:07
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Seriously. If some Uhaul monkey offered to install a trans cooler in my car I'd probably laugh in his face. Well how else ya gonna hook up the trailer? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2016 07:43
|
|
|
e: you know what this isn't the place for that rant. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Jan 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2016 10:35
|
|
|
Non-update on the yellow sedan: in an effort to cure the rough running and lack of power, I have swapped the ignition coils for a set of known-good coils. It did not change the engine's behavior. I might try an ignition module, but I'm leaning more towards fuel injector(s) not operating correctly. Good thing I have a parts car in the garage!
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2016 05:39
|
|
|
Try unplugging the MAF.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2016 07:14
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Try unplugging the MAF. You posting that made me go out and check that right now. Unplugging the MAF resulted in no change. I then swapped over the MAF from the gold wagon. Idle quality improved quite a bit. So I took it out for a quick spin. It still is hesitant off the line, and still feels like it has a misfire at higher speeds, ie when the torque converter is locked, but the violent shaking is much less pronounced. Especially in fourth gear with converter lock. Changing the MAF helped, but hasn't completely cured it. Thank you. Speaking of the gold wagon, I finally got around to getting to the DMV to transfer the title to my name. That's the motivation I need to start tearing it down in preparation for scrapping. I briefly considered making it my project car, but even after getting another transmission in it, it has some sort of electrical problem that I am not physically and mentally equipped to tackle myself, and not financially equipped to have someone else fix it. The only way I would be satisfied would probably be to replace the entire harness from bumper to bumper, which is a galactically impractical and hugely expensive consideration on a car I literally bought for scrap value.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2016 08:16
|
|
|
Aww man, sorry it didn't work out. Nearly any G or H body I've come across has a dirty MAF and a bad coil pack ground. If the MAF is bad enough, unplugging it puts the mixture to default values that are usually better than the dirty learned values (after unplugging the battery to put it into learning mode, then driving it up to 60 at least twice with at least one "closed loop" state set...  GM). Then cleaning the MAF resistor with alcohol on a q tip fixes it enough to plug it back in. Any other idle misfiring was then reduced to the bad coil ground, both on the back of the coil pack, and the pack mount to engine block interface.I tried for a hail-Mary.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2016 09:18
|
|
|
Yellow sedan update. It has had a slow but steady transmission leak since I acquired it, which I haven't been able to pinpoint, due to how air moves under the car. I think it might be the pan gasket. I added a bottle of Lucas additive, and it helped a lot. The converter lockup shaking is much less than before, and it seems to shift a little easier. I have also elected to give it to my mother-in-law, in the interests of keeping the peace in my house. The gold wagon is starting to disappear.        Items removed so far, in no particular order:
I had planned on pulling and keeping the seats, but the fronts were ruined, so they were taken by the garbage men months ago; the middle seat is gross with dog hair; and the third seat is vinyl, which I somehow only found out the other day despite this car sitting in my garage since August! Also on the list are the fuel tank and filler neck, vent windows, maybe also the other wagon-specific glass, wheels and tires, header panel and grille, and if I get the gumption, the top end of the engine. The '93 heads are very similar to L27 heads, so I want to keep them around if I ever get another LG7 car, to facilitate a sneaky L27 swap (detailed earlier in the thread).
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2016 21:30
|
|
|
The title for the gold wagon arrived in the mail today! So whenever I deem that I have removed whatever I need, it can now be scrapped. Toward that end, I pulled the struts from it and slammed them onto the white wagon. So far so good.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2016 06:02
|
|
|
I had Pic-A-Part scheduled to pick up the husk of the gold wagon today, for the princely sum of $50 (scrap steel is apparently only $40/ton these days). The truck just showed up, saw that I had removed things from the car, and told me that the price just went from $50 to $0. Sounds like you just wasted your time, bud. Have a good day. So the plan has changed from "pull stuff I feel like" to "strip to bare chassis, liberally apply sawzall, take bits to recycling facility". Anyone in Vegas up to join me?
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2016 21:09
|
|
|
Be careful friends. If you rub the lamp on the dashboard and let the genie out, this is what happens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh0stiZXSy4
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2016 19:51
|
|
|
Left Ventricle posted:Be careful friends. If you rub the lamp on the dashboard and let the genie out, this is what happens. ehh new engines are cheap as poop from the junkyard. I had an old service writer at pepboys with a 3100 monte carlo. That thing knocked like a metal skeleton on meth jerking off in the closet. And it just kept on knocking till he totaled it into a customers car. But the point is the 3100 is noisy and will live with a knocky motor for a long time.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2016 21:06
|
|
|
I'm debating whether I want to get a stock replacement and do a big port swap or get a 3.5. I can get either an L82 or an LX9 locally for about the same price.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2016 23:34
|
|
|
Would a 3.8 fit? Seems like it'd be a relatively easy swap.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 00:25
|
|
|
Previa_fun posted:Would a 3.8 fit? Seems like it'd be a relatively easy swap. Will absolutely fit - it was an optional choice in the mid 80s.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 00:51
|
|
|
An L36 fits just fine, but it's not "easy". I would need to swap the entire harness, whereas another Chevy engine will drop right back in and get the car rolling again quicker.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 01:00
|
|
|
 
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 04:52
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 04:56
|
|
|
It is an LX9 "3500", which is a 3.5L variant of the 60 degree Chevy V6. This particular one came from a 2005 Chevrolet Malibu, with 116k miles according to LKQ. This 3.5, unlike the later ones, is based on the 3.4L "3400" LA1, with updated head and intake designs, and gaskets that won't fail like the earlier Chevy engines. The later 3.5s are a smaller displacement version of the 3.9L, so they have variable valve timing and E85 capability, which are very difficult to make work in older cars. This engine is not really plug-and-play. I have had to order the 3500 swap kit and 1997 PCM from Milzy Motorsports. Mike spent almost two hours on the phone with me, ironing out all the details of this swap, making sure the computer would be programmed how I wanted it, doing up a custom throttle body, and all that. He also said that, if there were interest in the A-body community, he might put together a swap kit specifically for A-bodies, using my car as the prototype! Particulars of swapping this engine into my car, in no particular order:
I'm sure more will come up once I yank the stock engine and start transferring over parts. Look for that in the coming days.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 18:48
|
|
|
Awesome!
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2016 22:48
|
|
|
I have removed parts from my new engine that I won't be using or aren't compatible with my car, like the upper intake, exhaust manifolds, EGR valve, fuel rail, idler pulley that's in the way of my power steering pump, the heater pipe that runs across the valve cover, and the like. I also test-fitted a 3400 upper I had laying around, and was satisfied with the result. Parts unrelated to the engine swap are starting to trickle in. As I said earlier in the thread, the '96 and older U-body vans share most suspension components with my car, so I ordered bare van struts, variable-rate car springs, car mounts, and car spring seats. Also on the way are new bushings for the van sway bar I already have installed. New KYB Gas-A-Just shocks will round out the rear. When I need to haul or tow, I have some Monroe Load Assist shocks, which have a 25 lb helper spring. At some later time, I will also replace the rear springs with variable-rate springs, and see about control arm bushings for the front, as the budget will allow.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 04:11
|
|
|
I picked up an LG8 upper intake from the yard. I will probably take it to a machine shop to be checked for cracks and have the EGR passage cleaned. I have no idea why I didn't get the EGR valve and stove pipe at the same time. I also put on the Goodwrench front valve cover. Can't even tell it's not a 3.1!
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2016 05:05
|
|
|
Wow, I literally cannot stop posting in my thread. I fought with one of the springs for my struts for the better part of two hours on Sunday. Maybe it was the spring compressor set I rented from Autozone, but I wasn't able to get the spring scrunched down enough to put it on the strut and bolt on the mount. I looked at getting a "clamshell" style compressor, but every one I saw online said it was only useable on springs up to 7 inches in diameter, and mine are 8. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 02:49
|
|
|
Zip ties. Lots of zip ties. don't do this.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 03:15
|
|
|
Left Ventricle posted:Wow, I literally cannot stop posting in my thread. When I was younger / more broke / dumber, I solved this issue by assembling everything the best I could in place, lining up all the holes, etc. and very carefully lowering the car down on the springs.  Probably don't do this either
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2016 03:24
|
|
|
I sent my junkyard LG8 upper to a machine shop to have it inspected for cracks, and if it checked out, cleaned. The EGR passage is a big concern, since it was pretty severely clogged on this manifold. That can cause an EGR-related check engine code to pop, which most people would probably throw a new EGR at, then be out that money when it doesn't cure the problem. I picked it up today, and was told it was fine, and it's quite clean now, including the EGR passage. Also, I will be picking up my assistant for this swap from the airport tonight. I've hired my dad to help. Some of you may recall that I had him help me swap the transmission in this car about two years ago. This will be more or less the same procedure. While the drivetrain is out, I will be again replacing all the mounts, since at minimum, the rear trans mount is trashed again. I ordered some 24 pound injectors from ACCEL, but will not be receiving them, due to back order. I will have to use my stock fuel rail, since the LX9 rail is returnless and not compatible with my car's stock fuel system. So I have to use stock-style injectors, which the ACCEL ones are. But after getting my order canceled twice, at ebay and Amazon, I will not be buying those. Instead, Mike at Milzy Motorsports will be sending me some 36 pound L67 injectors and some spacing brackets, since the L67s are a bit longer than the stock ones. This will also provide a bit of future-proofing, since I still want to beef this engine up a bit.  Poll question:Once I get started with the actual swap, should I continue posting in this thread, or make a new one?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 01:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 08:51 |
|
|
Just keep posting it here . I can't wait to follow this trip down the rabbit hole. Gm v6 motors have always held a place close to my heart. Its probably because I make a killing on them. But please keep posting I have always wanted to 3800 gen 3 swap an old's of that vintage.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2016 02:07
|
|