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Left Ventricle posted:I still need to splice in a new connector for the throttle position sensor. The LG8/LA1 use a completely different connector than the L82. The number and colors of the wires are the same, so I just need to match them up. I don't suppose they have the same pins but different plastics? That would mean you could just de-pin the original connector and then jam them into the new connector body without having to splice any wires. But if the bodies take different pins, I suppose that defeats that plan.
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Jul 17, 2016 22:55
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Raluek posted:I don't suppose they have the same pins but different plastics? That would mean you could just de-pin the original connector and then jam them into the new connector body without having to splice any wires. But if the bodies take different pins, I suppose that defeats that plan. Stock connector is on the right, new one is on the left. 
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Jul 18, 2016 23:23
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Left Ventricle posted:Stock connector is on the right, new one is on the left. Oh, yeah. Totally different. Oh well, a good splice is not a crime.
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Jul 19, 2016 00:04
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Left: Packard/Delphi Metripack 150 series sealed Right: Packard/Delphi Weatherpack The left connector is far superior. Weatherpacks were great in the 70s/80s but we have better things now. So in a way you are upgrading by necessity. I love how you are dedicated enough to figure out GM legos on a car that no one else has done this on. That AC compressor is some real wizardry, has anyone else in the Century community figured that out yet?
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Jul 19, 2016 03:04
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kastein posted:I love how you are dedicated enough to figure out GM legos on a car that no one else has done this on. That AC compressor is some real wizardry, has anyone else in the Century community figured that out yet? I don't think so. I think I've said this before, but I'm almost completely certain I am the first person at least in the A-body and 60degreev6 communities to do this swap, if not the first in the world. The LX9 swap has been done in Cavaliers, Grand Ams, Aleros, Fieros, third gen Camaros, a couple trucks, and even a Datsun Z, but not a Century, whether an A-body or W-body. That's part of the reason I keep posting those seeming random pages of notes, in case someone else is bonkers enough to follow in my footsteps. I just wish the 60v6 folks gave a poo poo. Not to import forum drama, but it seems like the 60v6 guys just don't care unless it's a Fiero or Grand Am. Also, Left Ventricle posted:I am also going to the yard tomorrow to see if I can find a car that uses the same style cruise control module as my car with the new-style linkage. I really don't want to be without cruise. Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jul 19, 2016 |
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Jul 19, 2016 03:31
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More random notes: —The bolts that hold the fuel rail in place are M6 x 1.0 x 10mm. They are too short when using the rail brackets Milzy sends with the L67 injectors, because of the different shape of the nozzle end of the injectors. They don't fit completely in the bores in the lower intake. I bought slightly longer bolts (16mm) and M6 washers and slowly cinched them down to make sure I didn't crack the injector bodies. I don't foresee any problems with leaks though. I'll keep everyone posted. —Upper intake manifold bolts get Loctite 37418 thread sealer and torqued down to 18 ft-lbs, middle ones first. Or, since my Harbor Freight 3/8 torque wrench reads in in-lbs, 216.  I received the compressor bypass pulley and spark plug wires in the mail last week, but the monsoon is setting in in Vegas, so it's drat miserable to work in my uninsulated, unventilated garage. Plus I can't find my alternator or belt, so I'm gonna have to buy a new belt and rummage through my pile of poo poo to find the alternator. I did find my old busted alternators though, one for the Chevy engine and one for the Buick engine, so there's that. 
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Jul 26, 2016 07:09
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You can probably rebuild those alternators for peanuts (if either will fit into your sorcery swap), most of the time they just need a replacement bearing, brush pack, slipring, rectifier pack, or regulator. The number of times I bought a new alternator for $130 at the parts store when all I needed was a $25 regulator or $7 terminal block off ASPWholesale saddens me.
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Jul 26, 2016 17:06
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It's beginning to cool down a bit early in the mornings here in Las Vegas, so I should be able to finish this up soon. It's really about 90% done at this point. I got the TPS connector spliced yesterday, as well as torqued the upper intake down. I need to bolt on the alternator, buy a shorter bolt for the external crank trigger bracket, torque the crank pulley on (118 ft-lbs), put on spark plug wires, radiator back in, trans cooler lines hooked up, coolant overflow, strut tower ties, belt, fill with fluids, and replace driver's side axle. Not much left, really. 
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Aug 22, 2016 18:43
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I'm looking forward to this. There's just something about random rear end wagons coming back to life that makes me happy.
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Aug 22, 2016 19:29
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Finally, a break in the summer weather. I got up at 8 am to a breezy 77 degree morning. I put in a couple hours in the garage and made some real progress. Here are the results! Alternator: Mostly on, lost a bolt.  Cruise control: uh, present. We'll see if this works. It's just sort of sitting there, with the cable attached to the ribbon.  Radiator, fan, trans cooler lines: check!  Spark plug wires: check! Thanks to my wife for wrapping the wires in loom for me. This image is an accurate representation of a finished product. I'm so close to being done I can almost taste it.  I need to go to the yard and get the missing alternator bolt, and the bolts that hold the header-side dogbone bracket, since those seem to have vanished as well. Big thanks to my dad, who's organization method was "throw everything in a bucket, sort it out later". I filled the engine with oil and did an experimental cranking. It turned! That's good news. It means that everything is hooked up correctly. I just need to finish mounting the alternator so I can put the belt on, get a shorter bolt for the crank position sensor bracket, fill the transmission and radiator, and put the coolant overflow back in. Then I can at least attempt to start it for real. Test drive will have to wait until after I replace the driver's side axle, since I somehow managed to tear the inner boot. I already have the replacement axle on hand. I just need to get to it.
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Sep 4, 2016 19:50
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Your dedication to this truly AI undertaking is inspiring.
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Sep 6, 2016 03:37
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SuperDucky posted:Your dedication to this truly AI undertaking is inspiring. My mom bought a 1990 Century in like 1993-4, whatever. It had the 3.3 engine cause we had a pop up camper she wanted to tow with it. She wasnt able to do that but fast forward to forever cause she had that car like all the time I was growing up. My mom would drive me and my sis and like 4 friends in that car to middle school and probably high school dances cause gently caress yea bench seats both front and back. Then both me and my sis got Cavalier Z24s when we started driving which were like 140hp and moms 3.3 was 160 and we used to laugh about how moms silver mom-mobile was still faster than our poo poo even though it had bench seats and an automatic on the column. My mom had that car for like 10 years and then some kids stole it during spring break, smoked crack in it, broke the front seats so they would lean back farther and put some 6x9s in boxes in the rear window and hooked them to the stock stereo. My mom cried when they showed it to her in the impound and thinking about that will always make me sad. It was a great car. Thats my Century story and I love this thread especially cause its a wagon and I love wagons and Centurys.
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Sep 6, 2016 03:55
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Just when I thought things were going too easy... I had no choice but to take the upper intake back off, because fuel was pissing out of the rail when I turned the key on to crank it. From here:  In between the rail and the line nut. I guess I didn't tighten it down all the way or something. And naturally I don't have a 14 mm line wrench. Had to buy one. Luckily the gasket did not tear, so I didn't have to buy another one of those. Hopefully have a starting video soon. I will still have to replace the driver's axle before I can drive it though...
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Sep 11, 2016 17:55
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gently caress. Reading through this thread again, I JUST got the title.
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Sep 12, 2016 00:24
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Left Ventricle posted:Just when I thought things were going too easy... That just happened to me recently on the same engine and it was because I tore the o ring putting it back together.
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Sep 12, 2016 02:09
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boxen posted:gently caress.  Fart Pipe posted:That just happened to me recently on the same engine and it was because I tore the o ring putting it back together. There's supposed to be an o-ring there? What size is it?
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Sep 12, 2016 03:16
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Left Ventricle posted:There's supposed to be an o-ring there? What size is it? Yeah there's an o-ring on the inside where the line plugs into the rail, not sure of the size as I just matched the old one to one in my various size kit.
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Sep 12, 2016 15:09
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I ran into this when replacing the injectors on my Allante. The injectors came with fresh ones, but the ones connecting the fuel rails fell apart.
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Sep 12, 2016 19:05
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 I am feeling a bit smug. Here's why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBsATkPGHH0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDiAVJPNngA Now, as I said in the second video, it's not running all that well, and the check engine light is on. I went to Autozone and had them pull the codes for me. P0102 MAF sensor circuit low frequency P0336 Crankshaft position sensor circuit - performance problem P1675 EVAP vent solenoid control circuit malfunction I expected there to be a problem with the MAF, since I forgot to rewire the connector. The crank sensor code, after a quick googling, could be a problem with the 24x sensor, rather than the 7x external trigger, either the sensor itself or the reluctor wheel on the back of the crank pulley. I don't remember seeing anything wrong with it, but I guess I'll have to pull it off and check, and probably get a new sensor. The EVAP code is just gonna piss me off, since I just replaced both of the solenoids like last year. As for the fuel leak I posted about above, it turns out there is supposed to be an o-ring on the end of the fuel line going in to the rail, and it was not present. I replaced it, and all is well on that front. Also, the belt is squealing. It's flopping around, like it's too long. Either it is too long, or my tensioner is worn out.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:05
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HELL YEAH! Congratulations! 
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Sep 12, 2016 23:06
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ik sticky pls e: tia
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Sep 12, 2016 23:41
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EVAP issues are always such a pain in the dick. The rest sounds like it'll be easy enough to fix though. boxen posted:Reading through this thread again, I JUST got the title. Goddamnit. Now I can't unsee it. 
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Sep 13, 2016 02:16
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some texas redneck posted:
I always figured EVAP issues would be rear end related, not dick, but I digress. You can use one of those air duster nozzles, *lightly* and I mean *lightly* (less than 20psi) pressurize the tank/evap lines. you'll know fast if its leaking. Bonus if you have a smoke machine...
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Sep 13, 2016 02:20
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Cool swap. Is this the 3.5 they use in the 8th Gen Impalas? I had a few rentals with them and it wasn't a bad engine at all. I'd imagine in a lighter A Body it'll move it pretty good.
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Sep 19, 2016 19:39
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KennyLoggins posted:Cool swap. Is this the 3.5 they use in the 9th Gen Impalas? I had a few rentals with them and it wasn't a bad engine at all. I'd imagine in a lighter A Body it'll move it pretty good. Corrected for you. It's a second cousin of sorts. I posted a bit about it earlier in the thread, but in summation, it has more in common with the 3.4L from the 8th gen Impala than the 3.5L in the 9th gen. That engine is a short stroke 3.9, while the 3.5 I'm using (from an early 6th gen Malibu) is a slightly overbored 3.4 (94 vs 92 mm, 9 more cubes), with better heads, intake, and gaskets. No Dexcool-related failures here. The EVAP code ended up being a torn elbow on the vacuum line going from the charcoal canister to one of the solenoids, which are located under the ignition coils on this car. A trip to the junkyard is in order for that. As for the crank sensor problem, I called Milzy, and he said it's more than likely the 24x sensor. A Delco replacement is $37 from Rock Auto vs $66 at the dealer. I'll also order the tensioner at the same time, which comes out to about $82 with shipping, with the crank sensor. Hopefully that, along with the rewired MAF connector, will cure the mechanical problems, and unlock the true potential of this engine. 
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Sep 20, 2016 07:34
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No unlocked potential.  Car still runs like rear end. I haven't been able to figure it out. The only lead I have is the P0336, which a little further research tells me it is sensor A, or the 7x sensor. It could be a number of things: a bad sensor (despite it working just fine when I pulled the stock engine), a bad wire from the sensor to the ignition module, the reluctor wheel not aligned correctly on the crank pulley, the sensor not aligned correctly with the reluctor wheel, or the sensor not gapped correctly to the reluctor wheel. It also began shifting funky. It wouldn't shift up from first to second at part throttle until I was going about 23 mph, then wouldn't go up to third until about 41 mph. An A-body board member said it's probably the throttle position sensor, which is old, so I ordered a new one from RockAuto, along with a new shorter belt. That stuff should be here on Saturday. And just in case anyone else is mad enough to try this themselves, I wrote up a more or less complete list of notes on doing this swap. Happy reading! Swapping an LX9 into a 1996 A-body (Buick Century, Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera). These notes apply only to the 1996 model year. 1994 and 1995 are transition years with regards to the computer systems ("OBD 1.5"), and most of the things I do will not work in 94 or 95 cars. If you wish to swap an LX9 into one of those cars, you should probably do a complete OBD2 wiring and computer swap, and go from there, or just buy a '96 V6 car. Hell, you could probably do this in a '96 van if you wanted, but without having to deal with all the throttle body/cable bullshit I had to handle. As an aside, a lot of the things I did were aimed toward keeping a stock or "sleeper" appearance. If you don't care about keeping it looking stock, you can change it up however you want. The county I live in does emissions testing, so I have to keep it "stock". To start with, you will need some custom parts. -External crank trigger for the 7x sensor, as you would for swapping the LX9 into any other car. Take your stock 7x sensor out of the L82 (or buy a new one) and put it into the trigger bracket. Leave the LX9 sensor in the block to prevent a massive oil leak. -The stock computer may run this engine, but it probably won't run well. I ordered a retuned, repinned '97 Monte Carlo PCM from Milzy, since, until recently, WOT-Tech didn't offer a '96 upgrade. -Differential bracket. The stock A-body bracket does not bolt on to the LX9 block. I bought one from Milzy Motorsports, since to my knowledge WOT-Tech does not offer one. -Cam postition sensor. I believe this is a 2000-2003 sensor, but again, I bought it from Milzy, since he offers it with the correct wiring to plug into the stock A-body harness. -Not custom, but you'll need to transfer your L82 crank pulley and 24x sensor over to the LX9. -Wiring extension for the coolant temperature sensor. The LX9 has the CTS in the rear head, rather than in the thermostat housing portion of the lower intake. This is dependant on whether your car has a two wire or three wire sensor. There doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason on these cars as to which one they will have. I have seen a couple '96 cars in the yard with a two wire sensor. For the record, mine has a three wire. Again, I bought an extension from Milzy, but, despite it being an option on his site, he no longer offers a three wire extension. I had to splice in a few extra inches with a connector I clipped off at the yard. This proved more difficult than I anticipated, since, as I said, there didn't seem to be a pattern to which cars (across various platforms) had a three wire sensor. -Remove the LX9's coolant sensor and install the three wire one Milzy includes in his kit. Put teflon tape on the threads. Use a deep 19 mm socket. Don't hammer it in. It's an aluminum head. Just snug. -Dogbone. A and W cars used dogbones, others did not. The stock A-body dogbone will not bolt on to the LX9 block. You'll have to use a later W-body one. Again, I bought one from Milzy. You'll also need to replace the head bolt that goes under the bracket, since cars with dogbones have a head bolt there with either a taller head or a stud that you bolt the bracket on to. It is safe to remove the one bolt. Torque is 44 ft-lbs + 95 degrees. Moving on from custom parts. This is all just raiding the parts bin, or playing GM Legos, if you will. -Throttle body is not really "custom", but the stock A-body one is unuseable, unless you make yourself an adapter. It uses three studs around the throttle opening, instead of the two (other L82, LG8, LA1) or four (LX9) bolts other engines use. No one makes one commercially. Someone on the A-body board made one for themselves a few years back when they did a big port swap on their '94 Ciera, but they only made one and didn't post any dimensions or schematics for the benefit of the board at large. You will need to use a throttle body from a non-A-body car. Size is really the only deciding factor. Since the mentality is generally "go big or go home", an LA1 TB is probably in order. -The other reason the A-body L82 TB is unuseable is the throttle cable and linkage. It is "Buick-style", meaning it is very similar to the one used on older 3.8 and 3.3 Buick engines. Why GM chose to engineer a bespoke throttle body and upper intake manifold for the A cars when literally millions of other L82-powered vehicles had new stuff is beyond me. The linkage is on the "wrong" side (facing the firewall) and uses some ball pivot nonsense which is wholly incompatible. You can't even just swap the linkage over, since the throttle return spring is separate, not integrated, and would be on the wrong side anyway. You can't use any of the stock sensors either. Unbolt it, clip the cables, toss the whole thing in the bin. -Take this opportunity to get rid of the "black box". It's a plastic housing mounted to the firewall right next to the AC drier. The throttle and cruise cables go in here for whatever reason. Since you're not using the stock TB, this box can go right in the bin with the stock TB. -You'll need a cable bracket from some other L82/LG8/LA1 car, since the stock one doesn't work for a variety of other, but related, reasons. -The throttle cable... Most A-body folks reasoned that you'll need a cable from a 1996 van, which is a perfect storm of NLA. First, it's one year only, being the last year of the A-body-based U platform, and the only year an LA1 was available. The cable is NLA from GM, and not made aftermarket. So few '96s were made that you probably won't find one in a junkyard. I've only personally ever seen one in the last five years or so, and it was well before undertaking this swap. But really, since you're using a new TB, just get a cable from any old thing. I settled on a '97 Lumina, but it's stupid long for some reason. I will probably try and find a shorter one at a later date, but it works for now. The only other issue is the firewall connector. The A-body is square, and the Lumina is round. You'll need to "massage" the opening a bit, but it clips on to the pedal just like stock. -I had a hard time coming up with a solution for maintaining cruise control. The A-body's cable clips in to the cruise module with a square clip, much like the throttle cable going in to the firewall. Every other GM car with electronic cruise, from four cylinders, to other Chevy V6s, to Buick V6s, to Northstars, use a round twist-lock clip. I couldn't figure out a non-redneck way to make it work, aside fron cutting the actual Lumina cable and putting it in the A-body housing in some way. I don't own any metal melting equipment though, and the only mechanical solution I tried (Dorman 03336 cable clamps) was a bust, I just shaved the clips off the outside of the round part, hooked the ribbon from the inside of the module up to the cable, and let it sit there, free. The cruise works. It takes a lot longer than before to engage, losing around 3-4 mph on the highway before it grabs, but it works. That's what mattered to me. -I also considered using a cruise module from another car to match the Lumina cable, but again, the A-body bites me in the rear end. The modules all share the same ten pin electrical connector, but the A-body only uses nine wires. At the time, I didn't want to take the chance of potentially wasting my money on a cruise module if it didn't work. I may revisit this in the future. -Throttle position sensor wiring: it will need to have a "new-style" connector spliced on, or repinned onto a new connector. The "old" wires are all the same color as the "new" ones. -Idle speed control : the part itself is a slightly different design, but the electrical connector is the same. -The mass air flow sensor is totally different. Going back to being "Buick-style", the sensor is sort of integrated into the throttle body, while the later ones are in the intake hose assembly somewhere. The connector is the same between the two. You can then use a stock MAF sensor and housing from pretty much any 1996-2005 Chevy V6. -Intake air temperature sensor is shared. No modifications necessary. Just jam it in there any old place. -Toss the LX9 fuel rail and injectors in the corner. The LX9's fuel system is returnless. Not compatible. Use your stock rail and regulator. It will line up and bolt down in the stock position. -Fuel injectors are sort of a toss-up. You shouldn't use the stock injectors, since they are only 19 pounds. You'll pretty much max them out on a bone stock engine. I went with L67 injectors, which are known as having a flow rate of 36 pounds. Your stock computer definitely won't run those correctly. Once again, Milzy got me these, along with modified fuel rail brackets. You'll need slightly longer bolts to put the rail back in. M6 x 1.0 x 16 is what I used. The stock ones are 10 mm, and are too short. -The L67 injectors have to be modified a bit. The body length and wiring are the same as stock, but there is a groove where the retaining clips ride that is partially missing on the L67s. I imagine this is because of the different mounting position of the L67 rail on its engine. That groove needs to be added. A quick hit with a band saw was all I needed. -Beyond that, the engine itself drops back in place without issue, since the block is physically the same size, and it has the same bellhousing as your stock engine/transmission. It will use stock mounts no problem. You'll need to transfer over your passenger side engine mount bracket, the one that goes under the crank pulley. The LX9 I bought came out of a Malibu, which uses a mount that bolts to the wheel well, like a C-body. The bracket bolts on just like stock. -Some engines may have a plate of some sort on the timing cover. It's just basically glued on. It'll have to come off so you can mount your stock accessories. -Speaking of accessories: your stock tensioner, power steering pump and alternator bolt on in their stock positions without issue. You'll need to transfer over your alternator bracket and passenger side engine lift bracket. The engine lift bracket spaces the alternator bracket out a bit to line up with the belt. The LX9's lift bracket is stamped differently, and doesn't fit behind the L82 alternator bracket. -Unless it makes some noise when you spin it, don't do anything with the water pump. It's fine. Lets you keep your stock lower radiator hose. -The air conditioning compressor, however, is a different story. As I said above, the dogbone bracket will need to be changed. This leaves nowhere to mount your stock compressor, since the stock one bolts to the dogbone bracket, while the LX9 has it bolted directly to the block. A 94-98 V6 N-body (not Malibu or Cutlass though) compressor is the solution, because it bolts to the block in the same way, and has the refrigerant hoses in the same orientation as your stock compressor. That or bolt on a bypass pulley (Dorman 34127). Either way, make sure you evacuate the AC system beforehand so you're not illegaly venting nasty poo poo to atmosphere. -No matter what you choose, your stock belt is now too long, by one inch. Stock is 69.5". Buy one at 68.5". If you must specify an application, same as the compressor: any 94-98 N-body V6, aside from the Malibu and Cutlass. -Transfer your oil pressure sender from the L82 to the LX9 (or install a new one for the L82). The LX9 is a single wire sender, the L82 has a three wire. -Transfer your stock knock sensor over as well. -As stated above, I chose to maintain a stock engine appearance. I used an LG8 upper intake manifold, from a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix. In addition to looking stock to anyone uninformed about the L82's ribbed UIM, it allows me to retain vacuum for my HVAC, manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP), and transmission modulator for the stock 4T60E. -I also used my stock exhaust. The front and rear manifolds bolt on to the LX9 heads in the same place. -Your stock EGR valve will not mount to the LG8 upper. You also will not be able to use the one from the LX9. You'll need one from an LG8 or LA1, along with the stove pipe. The pipe will screw in to the stock rear manifold the same. Make sure the connector on the valve is the same as your stock one. Most of the vertical-mount ones are, but some have these weird grooves in them, while my stock connector was smooth. -When you bolt the valve on to the intake, the bolt on the left (when standing in the front of the car), will touch the stock L82 fuel line when cranked down fully. I'm not sure of the pitch, but just take it to a hardware store and have them give you one 10 mm shorter. You don't need that bolt to wear a hole in your fuel line. -Transfer over your stock EVAP solenoid(s). It (they) will bolt on in the stock position. I used supposed plurals because California cars (which mine is) have two solenoids there: one blocky one, one disc-shaped one. I think on non-CA cars one of them is instead mounted onto the charcoal canister. I'm not really sure. -Your stock starter will bolt on and wire up like stock, assuming you want to keep the stock starter. You can use a newer-style small starter from an LG8/LA1 if you want, which will likewise go on like stock. Going with my sleeper status, I used my stock starter, so it sounds stock. -Since I used an LG8 upper, I can also mount my stock igntion module and coils in the stock position. -My LX9 came with the heater pipe on top of the water pump from the Malibu. Doesn't work in an A-body. Transfer your stock one over. This allows you to use your stock heater core hoses. Despite the fact that neither the LX9 nor the L82 used a gasket there, and the L82 didn't leak before, when I ran the L82 heater pipe on the LX9, it leaked from there. Couldn't hurt to slap some water pump gasket maker (grey RTV) on there. You have to let it cure for 24 hours though. -Some folk say you need to transfer your L82 water fitting over to the LX9. This is the one that comes out of the thermostat housing area of the lower intake manifold, under the throttle body. This would necessitate removing the LX9's hose and tapping the boss 1/2" NPT to use the L82 pipe. I didn't do that. I just clamped the heater core hose on and called it a day. -Transfer your stock thermostat housing over. Lets you keep your stock upper radiator hose. -Using an LA1 throttle body, L82 thermostat housing, LX9 water fitting, and an A-body heater pipe, there is nowhere for the throttle body heater to accept its coolant. -Oh well. -Seriously, you don't need a TB heater. Don't bother. Don't even need to cap the pipes off on the TB. -Again with the stock appearance: Put your stock air cleaner back in place. Details below. -The MAF sensor you will need to use does not mount in the stock location (in the throttle body). You'll need to put the body somewhere in the air stream. LG8/LA1 cars put it in the intake hose, in between the TB and the air cleaner. This is where I put mine. Using the stock air cleaner, I went air cleaner -> stock intake hose (IAT goes here as well) -> MAF. In order to join the MAF and the TB, I bought a 3" to 3-1/4" silicone coupler, in black. 3" goes on the TB, 3-1/4" on the MAF. Use a standard worm gear clamp on the TB side. I used a T-bolt on the MAF side. You don't have to, but it's a little more secure, I guess. -This will compress your stock air hose a bit. It's accordion-like, so it should be okay. If it is cracked, look in to getting a new one. It's part number 25147228, but good luck getting one from a dealer. A junkyard part will probably be in the same or worse shape. I lucked out. Mine is okay. Otherwise you'll have to run some stupid ricey aluminum thing. -Everything else is just tightening down bolts and clipping the harness back in to everything. The LX9 will mate with your stock torque converter and transmission without issue. -I might recommend replacing your converter while you have it apart. Part number GM42CW is a good one I've been using for a couple years without issue. Available from a few companies; I bought a ProKing. 245 mm, carbon clutch, 1800-2200 stall. Locked up nice and tight while towing a 5x8 U-Haul trailer at 60 mph in third gear for 1200 miles. -I also replaced the converter or input shaft seal, but if it doesn't already leak, leave it alone. It'll probably be fine. -Also going to recommend an adjustable vacuum modulator. Nobody really makes one specifically for a 4T60(E). Specify one for a TH400. It should be a brass color with two red stripes. -Last thing: The LX9 uses a remote oil filter housing. It appears that it would interfere with either the radiator fan and/or the subframe when mounted in an A-body. I removed it, and installed the threaded dealy that the filter spins on to from the L82. You'll need a 10 mm internal hex (or "allen") socket. Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Nov 24, 2016 |
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Oct 28, 2016 02:27
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Despite the issues you're running into I'm going to rate this A1+++ good job. Dedication to the project and even followed it up with some documentation. Sweet!
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Oct 28, 2016 04:09
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Sorted! Runs great now. Basically, I'm a bonehead. First, it turns out that I was misinformed about the wiring modification to the MAF connector. The P0102 went away after I swapped the wires back to the stock positions. The EVAP code is gone because I replaced the torn vacuum elbow on one of the solenoids. The crank sensor code is gone with the replacement of the 24x sensor. I also found out I had a fuel leak. The fuel pressure regulator was leaking externally somehow. Luckily, I had some foresight and bought one a few months ago. Swapped that and no more leak. The transmission was shifting funky, and at the suggestion of an A-body member, I replaced the throttle position sensor. I probably didn't need to, since I found that my wiring splice had come apart, so I taped that back together and the transmission acts right again. Couldn't hurt, right? After getting the MAF, EVAP, TPS and CPS codes handled the computer could stop freaking out and finally tell me that there was, in fact, a misfire, of the random/multiple variety, with flashing SES light! P0300! The only time I've had a flashing SES is when I didn't put the spark plug wires on the coils in the right order. That held true this time too. Turns out I had the #2 and #6 wires crossed. With that back in order, I burned the front tires pulling out of my driveway. George is back! I put about 80 miles on the car this evening, long enough for the computer to figure its poo poo out and let me know that the engine is running lean. P0171, bank 1 lean. But since there's only one oxygen sensor for the whole engine, that would mean it's running lean all over, yeah? That aside, it ran great, as well as it did before I wrecked the stock engine. It doesn't seem to have any more power than stock though. That might be down to the gearing in the transmission still being tall, or the smaller LG8 intake and stock exhaust being hooked up to the engine. And unless my gauge isn't reading correctly anymore, it seems to be consuming a lot of fuel, though that might go together with the lean condition? I will fill it up tomorrow and get an economy figure in a few days.
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Nov 18, 2016 05:57
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P0171 and consuming too much fuel sounds to me like a bad O2 sensor and/or exhaust leak upstream of the sensor. Or you're supercharger ready, either way... Glad you got it mostly working!
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Nov 18, 2016 13:12
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Agreed with kastein. Every time I've had an O2 sensor failure (and it wasn't the heater circuit), my mileage went to absolute poo poo, and I would get a lean code. Driving it with a misfire could have trashed the O2 sensor too. There's only 1 sensor on a V6? 
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Nov 19, 2016 00:23
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Yeah, only one upstream and one downstream sensor. Chalk it up to being a remnant of OBD1, I guess. O2 sensor ordered from Rock Auto. For $22 it's hard to go wrong. I have every reason to believe the front O2 sensor is original to the car.
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Nov 19, 2016 01:53
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This thread was amazing. Totally jealous, every station wagon of that vintage up here is just rusted to complete poo poo.
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Nov 19, 2016 02:47
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Agreed with kastein. Every time I've had an O2 sensor failure (and it wasn't the heater circuit), my mileage went to absolute poo poo, and I would get a lean code. V6 in my 4runner only has 2 because of California Emissions.
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Nov 20, 2016 05:38
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209.3 miles, 10.326 gallons of gasoline. 20.3 miles per gallon. I have been, uh, let's say "indulging myself" with regards to my newfound power. That is an approximate 60/40 highway/city mix, with spirited acceleration. So not terrible, honestly. The new oxygen sensor should help that a bit, as will me not giving it the beans so much.
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Nov 21, 2016 07:06
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Great work with the swap and awesome documentation if anyone else is crazy enough to pull this off! Been reading since the start and nice to see you were able to finish it.
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Nov 21, 2016 16:44
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Hi.      "New" wheels for George. The GM Legos at play in this car grow ever larger. They are from a 1998 Chevrolet Malibu, with center caps from a 1997 Buick LeSabre. I've had these wheels for something like nine years, and they've been on a couple of cars I've had in the past, including my van. They live, they die, they live again.
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Dec 2, 2016 00:21
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Left Ventricle posted:They live, they die, they live again.
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Dec 2, 2016 16:45
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They fit the car well.
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Dec 3, 2016 04:24
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 3/4 second improvement over stock.
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Dec 3, 2016 23:37
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How...how is it that slow
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Dec 4, 2016 00:59
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