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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I wouldn't call that one "driving" condition.

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Honda did the door mounted belts too, though mostly on coupes.

My 88 Accord DX coupe had them. Think some Civics got them too. They weren't meant to be disconnected to get in/out - the release was labeled "Emergency Release".

It was a way to get around airbags for awhile, as they were :airquote: passive restraints :airquote:. Same reason electric seatbelts were seen on so many late 80s/early 90s cars, they satisfied the passive restraint requirement at the time.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Voltage posted:

I would you completely crazy for fixing up these shitboxes, but I've had 4 Chevy/geo Prizms....

To be fair, the Prizm was a rebadged Toyota Corolla... the only things significantly different were the radio and a/c compressor.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

The TCC solenoid is a common as hell issue on FWD V6 GMs of that era.

You could do what I did to a couple of friend's cars - unplug the drat thing and forget it existed. On both of their cars, it had gotten to the point where the solenoid would lock up at highway speeds, then refuse to unlock until the transmission cooled down considerably (preceded by the shuddering you have now). The CEL didn't come on on either of them afterwards, and the only noticeable downside was a slight drop in highway MPG. I'd assume trans temps would go up a little, but you're typically moving at a pretty good clip by the time the TCC is trying to lock up.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

FWIW, my ex's V6 Cavalier wagon with the 4 speed auto kept right on going for several years with it unplugged. Granted, he didn't beat on it (I sure as hell did anytime I drove it though, I WANTED that miserable pile to die, just so I wouldn't have to work on the drat thing again). The CEL only came on at startup, but it was also a 91 or 92 if I remember right.

It was a smaller V6 though - I think a 2.8? Like Geirskogul said, you can likely just add a cooler to it to deal with the extra heat. And if it does blow up, well, it's not exactly an uncommon transmission.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

e: you know what this isn't the place for that rant.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Jan 5, 2016

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

:hellyeah:

EVAP issues are always such a pain in the dick. The rest sounds like it'll be easy enough to fix though.

boxen posted:

Reading through this thread again, I JUST got the title.

Goddamnit. Now I can't unsee it. :argh:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Agreed with kastein. Every time I've had an O2 sensor failure (and it wasn't the heater circuit), my mileage went to absolute poo poo, and I would get a lean code.

Driving it with a misfire could have trashed the O2 sensor too.

There's only 1 sensor on a V6? :stare:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Raluek posted:

Do you not have uninsured motorist coverage? I have liability-only and my policy includes that. I think that might handle hit-n-run.

Depends on the state.

It does in Texas, thankfully. Saved my rear end twice now on hit and runs. Once while I was in the car, once while the car was parked.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Heat shrink crimps - best of both worlds. Sealed up against the elements, but won't be prone to cracking from vibrations like solder would.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I have a ~$20 stripper/crimper combo from Commercial Electric (Home Depot's store brand), and it does decent crimps. But run far away from the $5-$10 poo poo at Walmart/Harbor Freight/any flimsy crimper+stripper combo.

I never did it for a living, but I know the electrical work I've done on my own car will outlast the car (engine harness repairs, plus the typical stereo + sub stuff).

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Coulda been a hell of a lot worse. That looks fixable with a 12 pack of beer, a mallet, and basic hand tools.

What happened? And how loudly is George cussing at you right now?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

If it makes you feel any better, GM made ABS optional on much of their lineup for several years (from the mid-late 90s up until the feds made it mandatory). My 06 Ion doesn't have it, but it has drat near every other option (sunroof, PW, PL, PM, MP3/CD player with aux in, Onstar, compass, keyless entry, outside temp display, automatic headlights, etc). I think the only available factory options missing are the automatic transmission, leather interior, and ABS.

I was guessing either a land barge (Crown Vic) or a smaller truck.

I'd guess you're going to find a tweaked upper radiator support and a little bit of damage behind the bumper. I bet the fender pops back into place as soon as the radiator support gets hammered out.

Glad to hear the CV driver wasn't a dick.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Jun 24, 2017

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I've tagged someone when they started to make a right turn... then decided not to. Dedicated turn lane w/yield sign. They started to take off, so I looked to my left to see if I was clear and oh hey there's an ambulance comi*CRUNCH*FUCKKKKKK

:downsgun:

Scratch on their car... $3000 in damage to mine.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

It was a literal scratch on their car, a couple of inches long.

I got them with the RF corner of my Accord (LR corner of their car), so the impact went right past the steel beam behind the bumper. Destroyed the bumper cover, styrofoam, airbox, headlight, and fender; the hood and upper radiator support needed some tweaking too.

01 Accord vs 92 Camry. I didn't even have my foot all the way off the clutch, I was probably doing 3-5 mph. :sigh: If I'd caught them just a hair toward the drivers side on my car, I probably would have had a similar scratch on my car.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

THAT'S THE WORST PART :mad:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

That many codes at once :stonkhat:

Do most of those run through one sub-harness, or maybe share grounds? I've had as many as 8 codes before, and that was after a rodent snacked on half of a harness.

(not one to talk though.. have 6 codes right now, and I have about 2 weeks to make all of them disappear + make the car pass OBD2 readiness monitors, so I can smog it - to be fair, 3 of them are because of the very dead rear o2 sensor, the rest because the MAF is dying)

I'm gonna guess the "low oil lamp" is actually bitching about the low oil pressure light not working properly? At least on the newer ECUs, that's all GM LAN based, maybe it's looking for the low pressure light on the bus?

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Nov 18, 2017

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Did you verify there was no voltage at the fan relay (or motor) when you commanded it on?

I'm still leaning toward harness issues (specifically grounds), but really, either are possible.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Still running the possibly bad PCM?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Poor George. :smith: Did you change the plugs when you got the engine, or just toss it in as-is? I didn't know GM had been taking lessons from Ford's 4.6/5.4 engines.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Left Ventricle posted:

The car returned 31 miles per gallon, an impressive showing.

Dafuq? That's what my 4 cylinder M/T Saturn gets. Sometimes. (I got 29.34 on my last tank, which was driving to Austin from Dallas, with 1 stop - best tank has been 33.92 though). It's supposed to be "up to 35 highway". :sigh:

The last Saturn didn't do quite as well once it got close to 200k, it was doing 26-27 highway/22-24 city. This one has a lot less miles, plus 15" steelies instead of 16" alloys. The old one did hit 35, once, on the same trip, but it had about the same mileage this car has on it at the time (140k).

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, that's the fun of OBD - nearly any code can be either a mechanical issue or the sensor itself used to detect that mechanical issue.

Or wonky sensors that can trip a code for one sensor when it's actually another sensor. See also: my MAP sensor codes that have turned out to be very likely caused by a borderline MAF. :argh:

Larrymer has been very helpful with troubleshooting it, I just haven't had a chance to order a new MAF (I move in 2 weeks, so I'm trying not to spend a penny). At least the OEM Hitachi sensor is all of $40.

I've figured out how to get the CEL to easily pop on though. Ease the clutch out at idle, soon as it's fully engaged, stomp the gas. Sauron's Eye appears immediately!

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Either you got a lotta junk in the trunk, or we got our front quickstruts from the same supplier.

Front of my car has more wheel gap than some trucks.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

In my case, it's just Moog's supplier being dipshits. I have the same stance going, just not quite as pronounced.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

How many redline neutral drops did it take to do that?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

JB Weld and multiple disposable vice grips. :colbert:

Seriously tho, is this one of the transmissions with a bolt-on bell housing, or is it one piece? If it's a bolt on, maybe swap the bell housing part? If not, uh... I'd just drive it until it breaks even more. Not much more you can do, you've already dropped the cash and labor on the swap. No junkyard is gonna take that as a core (some parts stores might, but that would mean buying a reman through them *shudder*).

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I.... didn't expect them for a Cheturn Iobalt either.

https://pacesetterexhaust.com/products/05-06-chevy-cobalt-saturn-ion-headers

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I've taken apart a GM steering column after turning on the headlights, followed by disconnecting the battery, touching the cables together, and just waiting a few minutes. I lived. :shrug:

(I also once did it live.. just pulled the plugs out of the column, then realized "ohshitthatwasayellowconnectorwasn'tit holy gently caress the airbag didn't go off, I bet I'll get an airbag light later tho..." *10 minutes later meme* "well poo poo, no airbag light either, I got lucky")

So long as you pull the battery and don't have any kind of static build up, it's fine. It'll be fi*pop*

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I mean, we exported the Cavalier to Japan..

As a Toyota Cavalier.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Seat Safety Switch posted:

I don't think the Ecotecs (03+) had nearly as many head gasket issues as the iron-block-aluminum-head 2200 SFIs that predated them, so hopefully it's an easy fix.

They weren't prone to head gasket issues, unless you let them get REALLY loving hot (they normally run at ~220-230ish to begin with, temp gauge sits dead center until it gets over 240, at least going by my Ions with the same engine). Betting it got hot, and the block and head didn't get skimmed before the HG got replaced...

What they ARE really prone to is timing chain tensioner issues. Luckily, it just screws into the timing cover with a 32mm socket (have to give it a few real solid whacks to get it to release once it's installed), and the latest revision is pretty solid. But hey, may as well throw a new chain at it while it's apart anyway.

The L61 is a pretty solid engine aside from that, and generally easy to work on for the most part (timing parts and water pump excluded). Should make the J body scoot pretty decent too, it makes decent torque at lower RPMs for a 4 banger.

LV, a leaking water pump will let coolant into the oil (but not oil into the coolant) (the drat thing is driven by the timing chain and hidden behind the timing cover :argh:), but they rarely fail. Since you say it overheats quickly.... yeah, probably HG.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I kinda like J bodies. Especially quick ones. :ohdear:

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Well at least it's an Ecotec and is actually worth fixing.

Can also tell your uncle never washed or waxed it lol, same thing happens in Florida, you can say goodbye to the clear coat if you neglect the paint for too long.

I don't care how well it was cared for, the clear coat on that era GM falls off after just a few years on the dark colors. Doesn't matter if it's a J Body or a loaded Cadillac, it falls off.

Honda/Acura had the same issue around that time, so did Nissan, and many other car makes. Some law changed the way paint was formulated around the mid to late 90s, the result was garbage paint for ages.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

As a recovering GM owner (who jumped ship to Subaru... I'm still on the fence about which is worse in the super cheap car range)..

Welcome to GM. :v:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Everybody saying Camry/Corolla has forgotten this is not Automotive Sanity that we're in. :rolleyes:

Shine on, you crazy bastard. :black101:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I would do naughty things to have THAT NEIGHBOR vs my current ones in the next duplex. They're nice enough when you talk to them, but their aggressive dog is always off-leash, and they're always having parties (even during quarantine). I don't care until their dog tries to take a bite out of my foot yet again, they keep the parties pretty quiet. But a pit bull charging you (btw, I love most pitties), cornering you, then trying to rip your foot apart until you whack him on the face with a bag full of cat poo poo that you were already taking to the garbage... not cool. Upside is they have cheap :420:, if I wanna start smoking again. Pretty classic gangbangers to be honest, but w/e, I grew up around that anyway. They seem to respect me for just simply saying "hey what's up" and asking about their dog a bit when I walk out, instead of my roommate's "gently caress YOUR DOG HE'S OFF LEASH AGAIN". Roommate doesn't get dogs, EVERY dog in the world is gonna chase you if you take off running! Just stand your ground, bop it across the face with a bag full of cat poo poo, and the dog goes "WTF YOU BOOPED ME WITH poo poo" and chills out a little.

Dude on the other side of the duplex (shared wall) is cool as gently caress, but doesn't know a whole lot about cars. Also we each only have a 1 car garage, 1 parking space in front (shared 2 car wide driveway, 2 cars deep, plus garage... so up to 3 small cars per driveway if you use the garage), and because of how badly my car pisses itself, I park in the street so I don't get yelled at by the landlord. :sigh:

The neighborhood is very much a "park on the lawn because we have 8 people in a 2 bedroom duplex" type of neighborhood. The same person owns about half of the street, it's all 70s duplexes that are identical.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:31 on May 13, 2020

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I mean, a $500 truck that's normally worth $5k is very much worth fixing, despite the engine being garbage. Compared to George's swap, even if George's swap had been a stock for stock swap, this should be a piece of cake.

I'd go with a junkyard motor over a Rockauto reman though... more because the shipping on a long block from Rockauto is going to be :stonkhat: if you don't have a commercial address with a dock for delivery. I assume it'd be on a pallet and shipped as LTL though?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Definitely easier than it was on George. :unsmith:

You sure it's cooked and not just really low on ATF?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Ken nailed it..

kastein posted:

Holy poo poo, what a kick in the nuts.

At least when you're done with this, hopefully you'll have a solid work truck?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Suburban Dad posted:

It's for your daughter. Why not just do the easy thing and stock for stock replace it? .2L probably just uses more gas with hardly any discernable difference otherwise.

Buy you do your thing, AI. :)

There's a significant power boost from the 2.4 vs the 2.2 (~170 hp vs ~125 hp depending on year and trim, partly thanks to VVTi), but it's not something that can be swapped easily. The PCM won't play nice, the 2.4 was never offered with a cable throttle, a 2.4 PCM will be looking for a lot of other modules that aren't there. Tons of wiring, HP Tuners gets to get involved, etc.

LV, I'd find the latest year model L61 that has the correct crank trigger, and keep your existing throttle body - they revised the entire timing chain setup multiple times over the L61's run. Grab a new timing chain tensioner (it's been revised too many times to count and pretty easy to install), it's cheap insurance against it jumping time. Most everything else should plug in, might have to swap a couple of the earlier sensors over.

... the gently caress did he DO to that engine to crack the block though? GAWDAMN. I beat the snot out of both of my L61s, and the worst they ever did was miss pretty bad on a cold start after sitting a few weeks (valve guides were going... I think.. lots of blue smoke if they sat more than a few days).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Mar 7, 2021

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

You sure it didn't start pissing out of a crank seal? My F-150 would absolutely coat the rear bumper and tailgate just from that (and I had to add a quart roughly every day). Along with windshields of anybody stupid enough to tailgate me.

When my Integra started burning oil like mad, it smoked BAD, but it didn't leave mist.

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Left Ventricle posted:

It's the correct one.


Unfortunately for me, the car this engine came from was in a crash, and the yard I bought it from said that they typically don't get the key when they come in like that, so I have no idea how many miles are on it. However, I will be tearing it down this time, if only for the cam install.

You have the VIN right there. There's sketchy people on eBay who will run an Autocheck or Carfax for $5-10. Won't get you the exact miles, but it'll give you a rough idea... assuming they do vehicle inspections where it was last registered.

e: you don't need the key to get the odometer reading (you can generally press the trip reset button to get it to light up), but I found the car on their website... pretty sure the battery used to live in the part with the worst damage, so I can't say I blame them for not wanting to possibly hook up a battery for a moment. It has a dealer sticker from MO on the trunk, FWIW. Looks like it was in good shape before the wreck though.

e2: well that's really creepy, typing the VIN into google turned up the owner. :stare: She still lives in MO, apparently a 70 year old lady if this totally legitimate looking website is to be believed. Wonder how the car wound up in NV?

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Apr 28, 2021

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