|
Pickup of the right part successful. It goes here:  It went there.  $10 Harbor Freight torque wrench that does 150 ft/lbs and  poo poo with adapters: I have a not-embarrassing deadlift but I'll be damned if I could get the torque wrench to click for the upper balljoint so this poo poo happened:  All giddy about putting things together, I slam the torsion bar in, cut and pry out the old strut rod bushing in the kframe and work at reinstalling the lower control arm. Get everything in there with the new bushings and ran into a snag: the strut rod bushings I have are for '73+ cars. They are too thick for my year, which means the LCA doesn't sit forward enough in its mounts. This manifests itself with either the LCA pivot pin pulling out of its bushings if you've got bushings like mine or a suspension that binds and something-something-caster-is-worse. From some guy on forabodiesonly.com: style I have up top, '73+ on bottom:  Note the spacing difference between the metal washers. My LCA and strut rod after wrestling it out. The other bushing+washer is on my desk as I was researching what to do.  The strut rod is the only thing that should be keeping the LCA from sliding to the back of the car. Options: attempt to cut the existing bushings like this: http://www.heritech.org/cuda/bushings.html or get the right bushings from somewhere like Energy Suspension, or throw yet more money at someone and get adjustable length strut rods. $200 for new adjustable ones. But first I'll be asking the shop that gave me these if they have the right ones in stock and it's just I got two sets of wrong-year parts from them. Skier fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Nov 29, 2015 |
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 01:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 11:10 |
|
|
The bushings I have are for '73+ style strut rods, it's more money to swap for the older style strut rod bushings, so I ordered a set of '73+ strut rods from a guy on a forum. Took almost two weeks to get here and he sent the wrong parts. I now have two sets of the earlier style and no way to put the front end back together yet.  I think I will just buy the damned new rods from the local place because if they are wrong I can yell at them to make it right.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2015 04:23
|
|
|
That pipe on the torque wrench is making me twitch. It throws the reading off completely when you do that, it's very unlikely that you torqued the balljoint to spec or anything close to it by using the pipe over the torque wrench and you might have damaged the wrench, too. I hate to be a debbie downer but on something as important as a balljoint, I'd rather let you know before it comes apart.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2015 23:16
|
|
|
Surely the torque at the head should be the same regardless? 10 lb on a 5 foot bar should be equivalent to 50lb on a 1 foot bar.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 04:54
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Surely the torque at the head should be the same regardless? 10 lb on a 5 foot bar should be equivalent to 50lb on a 1 foot bar. Yeah, it reads at the head, not your hand. Now, I have wondered how much a wobble socket would alter a torque reading.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 06:07
|
|
|
It does, but you aren't supposed to apply pressure to the side of the handle tube halfway up, which the end of the pipe will do. Not sure that will throw it off but the manuals are always full of dire warnings about doing it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 17:20
|
|
|
So put the pipe at the handle, where your hand would be applying pressure anyway. Problem solved.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 17:26
|
|
|
kastein posted:It does, but you aren't supposed to apply pressure to the side of the handle tube halfway up, which the end of the pipe will do. Not sure that will throw it off but the manuals are always full of dire warnings about doing it. Aah, see; knowing this would involve me reading the manual. Which I didn't, because it is a torque wrench and one would think it simple enough to use without doing so. So thanks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 17:39
|
|
|
I read the manual for mine because I had to figure out how to compensate for using a crowsfoot wrench on it at one point. I am not sure why putting a tube on the handle matters but would have to guess it is because it somewhat bends the outer tube but not the pressure rod from the adjuster to the mechanism, so the rod will move slightly toward the head resulting in increased torque setting. I could be wrong though. FWIW, putting it on the handle will still apply bending moment to the tube, it will just have less overlap and therefore will flex the tube more and probably affect the reading more. Again, not sure. I am not a mecheng though so if one wants to look at the mechanism and tell me I am wrong, I am all ears.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 17:48
|
|
|
It can put weird stresses on the internals, and also put weird angles into the turning. I've seen micrometer type torque wrenches with broken poo poo inside because some dumb rear end fireman stuck a pipe on it to torque.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 20:54
|
|
|
Thanks for pointing that out, kastein, I'll probably buy and use a bigass solid breaker bar with a pull gauge and some  to calculate torque at the socket/fastener to ensure it's at the right torque. And get the right damned bushings for the strut rod.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2015 03:25
|
|
|
After getting the wrong set of used strut rods from random internet dude, who has offered to take 'em back and refund my money to make it right, I sprung for the Firm Feel heavy duty strut rods. You can see at the top how the new one is cut further back to let the lower control arm sit at proper depth. Had to get a 15/16" deepwell and decided to take care of my lack of SAE wrenches at the same time:  LOOK AT ALL THAT poo poo BACK TOGETHER LOOK AT IT  Todo: final torquing of LCA pivot pin nut, strut rod nuts and upper balljoint, grease all them new zerks. Move on to other side and do it again! Ride height is probably all mucked up, I need to re-clock the torsion bar. And pull off the calipers to exchange them for rebuilt, shiny new ones.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2016 00:02
|
|
|
Calipers shipped off for an exchange of shiny rebuilt ones. The other night my wife and I just finished watching a movie at home and heard a big crunch and found a Ford Explorer in our yard. Daughter of a neighbor was driving, claimed the brakes didn't work and it eventually got moved out. After they ran out of gas trying to get it out. Nobody hurt, just my bushes getting mangled and a Qwest box getting destroyminated.  Finally got all the driver's side suspension off and Evaporusted. Currently getting paint, along with the driver's side bumper supports.  Brake hardware, wheel bearings, etc...  New bushings pressed in the driver's side upper control arm:  As you can see there's also new shocks waiting to be installed. I also volunteered my garage to help a buddy swap motors in his SV650. The story about fragging the current motor was something about being at Burning Man and it exploding, showering his legs and feet with oil. Makes for a cozy garage. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2016 04:10
|
|
|
Yeah that'd do it: New Duster calipers in the mail, more paint drying on parts, reassembly in the near future.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 22:13
|
|
|
The 599 has been making a worrying knocking noise for the last few months before the Scrambler got the job of winter commuter. Finally found out the #4 spark plug worked its way loose somehow so it wasn't running on all cylinders. Nipped it back down, here's hoping I just didn't torque it right last time and the threads in the head aren't mangled.  SV650 swap is waiting on the right dual-spark ignition coils. Motor is from a newer bike, so we need those to complete the swap. The driver's side spindle showed some marks on it the passenger side didn't, where the wheel bearings ride. The bearings that came out of that side were also gummed up and felt chunky so I replaced them. Inner and outer bearings and races:  The Haynes manual I have says to have a machine shop press the old races out and new ones in. Managed to get it done by abusing a screw driver and using my recently acquired hammer. How did I get by without bigger hammers? There's foam between the dust shield and the spindle, which I reused the old stuff when reassembling the passenger's side. Best info I could fine was "use foam from a craft store" so my wife made a couple of pieces to fill that need. You can see the old nasty yellowed foam peeking out in some of the holes:  Rebuilt calipers with stainless steel pistons:  Digging into my pile of parts I opened the box of brake pads I've had for almost a decade.  Those aren't for the 10" KH brakes I have. drat. Final paint on the spindle and a couple other parts are drying, reassembly of the driver's side starts in the next few days.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2016 21:24
|
|
|
Driver's side together: The dust boot on the lower ball joint wasn't seated on the part and I tore it trying to install it with a hair-too-small socket. A quick Amazon order later for some Energy Suspension dust boots and a new set of proper brake pads and I got back to it. Left to do: brake calipers and hoses, wrestle torsion bar boots into place, jack suspension to ride height and torque upper control arm mounts, weep at poor alignment. Finally got a goodie for the Scrambler I've been looking for for a while:  Lighter than my exhaust, quieter, should allow more power, etc... Need to order some new jets and maybe a fancy wideband O2 sensor for tuning without a dyno. Took a detour down a very muddy alley and apparently installed a green strut. So Portland. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2016 03:05
|
|
|
Skier posted:Took a detour down a very muddy alley and apparently installed a green strut. So Portland. That's a Woodcraft.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2016 14:16
|
|
|
Duster work: Went to put the remanned calipers on, fussed with things before finding out I need a hard supply line that goes from the flexible hose to the caliper. The end of the soft line is a female end, you can see the female end plugged by the blue cap if you look close:  Will order one of those from Inline Tube tomorrow. You can see which one I'm talking about on this photo. Hardline on the right:  Scrambler: Wrestled the stock exhaust off.  Despite many days of soaking with PB Blaster, this bolt unthreaded the stud from the head instead of coming off the stud:  I had to use the double-nut technique to free it and that was a bit sketchy because there was juuuust enough thread on the head side of the stud to get the second nut on. Then yakkity sax as the inner double nut is now stuck so I double-nut the other side to break it loose which caused that inner nut to get stuck and  until I grabbed the unthreaded section with needle nose pliers.Those nuts and that stud are sitting in evaporust to get them cleaned up for installation of the new exhaust. Had to remove the upper rear strut to rotate the huge stock exhaust out of the way:  I think the swingarm bearings are due for replacement, the Scrambler seems to bind on the back after sitting for a day. Or used to be a few days, now it'll bind if it hasn't moved in a few hours. Should be juuuuust enough room to get the swingarm bolt out without hitting the sidecar body. Otherchat: lawn mower wouldn't start. Diagnosed a bum ignition coil on it, new one shows up on Wednesday.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2016 01:28
|
|
|
Insufficient catte photos on this page.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2016 01:51
|
|
|
Bucephalus posted:That's a Woodcraft. I see what you did there. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2016 07:49
|
|
|
Carbs pulled: The low oil pressure sensor broken when I sneezed at it. Plastic was brittle from so many heat cycles I think. Should be fine to freeball it without the sensor until a replacement comes in.  rear end in a top hat carb float bowl screw:  Roadkill gets me motivated, let's ape them.  Yeah the lawn mower is still non-op. My carb rebuild kit came in the other day. Also pictured: new carb jets for the Scrambler.  Rebuilt the carb, still fussy when starting cold, you have to really spin it fast for it to catch. When it does run it's the smoothest it's run since I bought it second hand a few years ago.  Hex is mo' better, plus it has OEM Keihin 115 jets in there now. I now have a selection of Keihin carb jets for future mods, like doing some hackery on the air box.  This bit of a mess was shopvacced up:  Interference between the new exhaust and the rear upper sidecar mount:  My fabricobbling didn't gain enough clearance, so I decided to hack up my expensive new-to-me exhaust.  Pretty much invisible unless you're leaning over the bike looking at it. I'll clean it up a little more, as when tightening the other fasteners the exhaust is pulled in to the bike a lot more. I think that's because when my buddy and I went riding in the mountains of north Idaho when I first got the bike, we encountered snow and ice, where we both dropped our bikes a lot. His KLR survived without a scratch where I broke my rear brake pedal and snapped off the head of the shifter. And bent the exhaust mounts in towards the bike.  I only have most of Sunday spoken for so I should be able to wrap up the Scrambler and take her for a spin! Then on to the 599: the Scottoiler doesn't appear to be oiling as it should and I broke the glue on the left heated grip when wrestling the bike around when the garage was filled with my buddy's SV650. Which he rode the other day and is super happy to have a running bike again! The Duster caliper supply lines showed up, I just need to install them on the calipers and install them before I can put the shocks in, wheels back on and move on to the next task!
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2016 00:17
|
|
|
Refilled the Scottoiler and adjusted the flow rate, I think I just had it turned down a lot for some reason. boom done  Test ride with the new exhaust:   Let's do more unspeakable things that look like poo poo until I get something from someone with fabrication skills:  This is fine.  Cycle Asylum readers may know I was getting bad stiction on the back of the Scrambler and after reading a few horror stories I decided it must be some of the barely-sealed bearings or the swingarm pivot bolt was 100% corrosion and no grease.  Things were gross inside but the bearings all spun freely, so the needle bearing got a little cleaning and regreasing, slapped things back together and still had the binding. Next up: test the shocks one at a time to see if one of them is the culprit. Back to the Duster, I put all the brakes together and as I was struggling with the last retaining clip bolts, this happened:     My welder spends a vast majority of its time holding down a corner of the garage, but when it is called into action, my bird-poo poo welding can really save the day. I am going with the blind hole for the brake pad retaining clip bolt is 1/8" shallower on the remanned calipers than the original units I sent out. New, shorter hardware and it's back together.  You can also see the new shocks installed. The last things to do before putting the wheels back on and laughing at the alignment was to install the torsion bar boots. These assholes:  I spent the better part of an hour wrestling those fuckers around, on my back, where it'd get seated most of the way then spring back out. Finally finagled a way to pry on the boot without mangling the torsion bar and careful use of a screwdriver got the boot 99% of the way on, where the last bit not seating kept moving around. It's like changing a tire that's more awkward to reach, is far smaller and hates you. Finally just put a 1/4" slit at the bottom and pushed the fuckers on, it'll be fine. I'm rapidly coming to the time I need to get my poo poo together for tires.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2016 04:37
|
|
|
When looking for new tires for the commuting appliance, found a lead on sourcing non-lovely tires from a local tire shop. They also have an "old school" guy who can do the Duster alignment, too. Popped the old master cylinder off after getting an appropriately sized SAE flare nut wrench. The pushrod nut and bolt was loose on the brake pedal.  When attempting to pull the push rod out of the old m/c it yanked the guts of the m/c out. It's supposed to separate, but the rubber bit that prevents the push rod from falling out has probably become one with the rest of the internals. Prying at it in a vise, per replacement m/c instructions and ~~internet advice~~ didn't pull it out. Gonna slice the collar open with my dremel to free it. The pushrod seals have been leaking for a while, the paint it all bubbled up around the master cylinder. Gotta get in there with a wire wheel and get that sorted. Brake fluid in the master cylinder wins the "worst I've see" award, even worse than cleaning 20+ year old motorcycle brake calipers.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2016 23:59
|
|
|
Remmaned master cylinder: Old m/c:  Oh that's why there's so much corrosion around there:  The little rear end in a top hat bushing on the right is a replacement for what's keeping the pushrod stuck in the master cyl:  Pushrod stuck in guts of old master cyl:  I'll either try to cool the pushrod with an air duster upside down and pull it out or just cut the metal collar on the right to free it up. It's stuck something fierce.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2016 05:12
|
|
|
You might have luck with leaving the whole ordeal in the freezer, then applying heat to the plunger (maybe in a vise?) and yanking on it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2016 05:20
|
|
|
How did I ever get things done without bigger hammers?  I tried the freezing the inner part with the canned air, no luck. Clamped the vise on the pushrod on a non-seal area, vise grips on the master cylinder guts, apply hammer. Worked like a charm, didn't get a chance to toss everything in the freezer per Raluek's suggestion.  I dressed down the vise marks with a file to knock it back down to flush. The rod is sitting in evaporust now so I can hit it with paint later. Cleaned and wiped down the nasty brake fluid leak area, then applied rattlecan. The flash makes it look weird. Hard to photograph at night.  Tried out the 3M rust and paint stripper disc:  A++ would buy again. Driving appliance got a hitch receiver so we can get a bicycle rack like proper Portlanders:  Package was mangled when I got it so I had to make a run to the hardware store to pick up the appropriate bolts and washers that escaped during shipping. Also grabbed a new 1/2" drill bit for creating the second set of holes in the frame, as our Carmy doesn't have the existing holes+captive nuts that all the reviewers on Amazon said their vehicles had. Bikechat: With temperatures rising by 20 or 30 degrees than a few weeks ago the Scottoiler flips between "hardly any oil" and "haha oil for everyone!"  Triumph parts: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2016 23:07
|
|
|
Been busy with summer things, job related shannanigans, etc... Cleaned out the garage, starting with moving a shelf into the shed with a bunch of crap to go on it:  Getting better. Ramps up and out of the way, too:  Fancy Italian heat shield to replace my garbage:  Duster work hooray! Hood latch and support:   Oh god it's been a while since this was registered:  Popped the clips off the inner fender and cleaned it up a lot with that 3M disc, then cleaned and painted:   Just slow that bleeding. Hood latch and support after evaporust and paint:  The mussy stuff on there is either evaporust I didn't clean off right or something else. Since this part might show I'll actually sand and repaint the mucky areas. Hood latch assembly still works fine, not gummed up by paint like I was concerned about. Brake pedal rod after paint. Still see some vise marks but eh nobody is going to see it:  A lot of the Duster work is cleaning rust off things and hitting with paint since the damned car seems to exude corrosion. Scrambler hack ready for pack mule action this weekend:  Driving appliance got new tires to replace the dry rotted ones on it:  Been working on getting the garage ready for white paint. Outlets were recessed too far so I need to install box extenders which requires the drywall to be closer so the extender sits on it which means some extra mudding to get that done and it just keeps going.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2016 02:15
|
|
|
How are you liking Evaporust? I dig it but my local vendor of it just stopped carrying it in favour of their house brand knockoff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2016 04:10
|
|
|
Skier posted:Tried out the 3M rust and paint stripper disc: Got a picture of that tool? Looks like I need one. Drill or grinder mounted?
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2016 20:23
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:How are you liking Evaporust? I dig it but my local vendor of it just stopped carrying it in favour of their house brand knockoff. poo poo's magical. Saved me countless hours wire brushing things. Slung Blade posted:Got a picture of that tool? Looks like I need one. Drill or grinder mounted? Can get a photo if you're like, it's this one on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Rust-Stripper-Brush/dp/B000BQT4UK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2016 05:29
|
|
|
Skier posted:
Kinda what I thought you were talking about. Cool, thanks, glad to know they're not complete poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2016 18:00
|
|
|
Been busy Finally got around to installing the upgraded mosfet regulator/rectifier for the Scrambler.  Temporary location:  Eventually I'll move it under the seat...  ...because the battery will move out to the tub:  New R/R works as it should, does things a bit more efficiently but still going to upgrade the wiring when it gets relocated.  I took the aforementioned 3M paint/rust remover to those weird gunky lines in the hood latch support and said "hey that probably doesn't need sanding!"   Crimping the R/R wires for the Triumph reminded me it was high time to buy a non-lovely set of crimpers.  After watching too damned much AvE I bought one of those Chinese Fluke meters:  Prepping the solo bike for another riding season with new brakes and a new rear tire:   That Pilot Road 4 put up almost a Metzler level of fight to get on.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2016 07:21
|
|
|
Had to create some room in the garage to get the back end of the Duster in the air to yank the wheels off and bleed the brakes. Driver's side:  Passenger's side:  New master cylinder installed and brakes all bled.  Top quarter of brake pedal travel feels a bit light still, but the brake line hoses I thought were for the rear are for something else entirely. Checking what I need to replace the single soft line at the rear brakes, then we should be good. Tires will be the only thing keeping me from getting an alignment and maybe some temp tags on this beast. Local tire store can get some tires that hopefully fit, weird tire sizes means limited selection and painfully high prices. Cooper Cobra GT is $320 a tire for the back.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2016 00:44
|
|
|
Got a complete set of tires on the way from Summit. $450 shipped, half the price the local tire store was quoting. I'll try to wrestle the tires on and off with my tire changer but reserve the right to have a shop do that. New rear shocks, drums painted everywhere but the friction surfaces with high temp paint:  New rear brake soft line. Looks a little stretched but the new one is same length as the old. This is also at full suspension droop. I'll keep an eye on it. Damned retention clip and bracket were rusted onto the old soft line something fierce.  Makin' progress: 
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2016 05:44
|
|
|
Got tires coming out the wazoo in the garage. Off on a motorcycle trip to Alaska in 20 hours. Try my hand at changing car tires with my Horrible Freight setup when I get back.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2016 06:32
|
|
|
One front tire on! Didn't seat the beads 'cause it's late, my air compressor is loud and we have house guests this evening. Didn't get the other front tire done because the lag shields ripped out of the concrete. They've been pretty loose for the past few changes, need to get some new ones and figure out how to keep them in the ever-widening holes in the concrete floor.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 06:33
|
|
|
Some Red Head concrete anchors, perhaps?: http://m.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Anchors-Masonry-Concrete-Anchors/Red-Head/N-5yc1vZc2g8Z19i We use 'em at work to hold down 8,000 lb industrial 75hp electric motors that turn jackshafts as big as a Lincoln towncar, they should be plenty for home use.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 16:59
|
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:Some Red Head concrete anchors, perhaps?: I picked up one of those in my trip to Home Depot, but they don't appear to be removable and reusable. Right now the tire changer is at the front of the garage so I zip lag bolts in and out as needed. I think I'll do the plywood 4'x4' option if the newly installed lag shields don't hold up. This time I cleaned up the holes really well, slathered some two part concrete epoxy in the hole and on the lag shields. Coated the bolts with some grease to make sure they didn't get stuck in case epoxy leaked through and kept turning them while the epoxy set.  Taking a little break while working on the rear tires:  Awww yeah back on its wheels.   Had to zip the torsion bar adjuster bolts up a bunch, the jack bottomed out before it rested on the suspension. Next: alignment! Maybe get around to dropping the gas tank and cleaning it! Although the EFI-ready aftermarket tanks are $250 and you can set up a regulator and return line to use them with a carb. Probably worth doing that. (Boring poo poo: got a trailer wiring harness for the driving appliance. Doing babby's first track day with the solo bike next weekend and will trailer it there: ) 
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 00:54
|
|
|
Carmy hauled the trailer + bike to and from the track day without issue. Replaced the transmission mount since it's been clunking coming out of gear coming to a stop for the past 30 or 40k miles, getting progressively worse. It was due for replacement and it's much less clunky now. Went to RIP PW's shop to help with his new biek.  Kitkit  Carbs were gunked up but not the worst I've seen.  Duster: Set ride height to "lol" high in the front:  No fender, easy access to the caster/camber adjusters:  With fender, a bit harder:  So off it comes. If you'll recall the driver's side had free spark plug separators and a Bic. We've got something else on the passenger side:  Yup, a piece of silverware dropped out.  Antenna wire has been getting pinched in the hood hinge for a while:  Now for the main event, alignment!  (Not pictured: several hours of spinning the steering wheel back and forth on some DIY turn plates, adjustment, jouncing, repeat a dozen times per side) End readings for tonight, still some tweaks:  That's +2.5 caster, -7/8* and -1 1/4* camber. Per the skosh chart caster is right on but I've got too much negative camber. Most of my time was spent chasing my tail trying to get the camber into spec without loving up the caster.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 07:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 11:10 |
|
|
Skier posted:Went to RIP PW's shop to help with his new biek. That bike looks suspiciously familiar... 
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2016 04:35
|
|