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LloydDobler posted:I hate the radio so I always switch out or just disconnect the power antenna, leaving it retracted. Also all my aftermarket car stereos have had smart antenna signalling so the antenna only extends when the radio is on anyway. I'd think this car would have a factory antenna switch, no? Or are you actually listening to the radio? It's got an aftermarket head unit, but I dunno how it would be hooked up. I'll try switching from radio to aux to see. I had the radio on, but just turned it down once I realized the engine is all that matters. I really need to put that driving CD together. This will be the opening song: https://makeupandvanityset.bandcamp.com/track/search-the-night e: went for that drive. Head unit does properly control the antenna, so putting in aux brings the antenna back down (and all the way -- whatever snag caught it last time isn't fatal yet). I'm still wrapping my head around the handling of the car. The 92 and later 348s got a wider rear track and a lowered suspension pickup for the rear upper A-arms, which supposedly plants the rear more, in contrast to the earlier 348s with their higher rear roll center. That weight in the back is definitely noticeable. The last two cars I've driven, the C6 Z06 and the Viper, had 50/50 and 49/51 weight F/R respectively. For both cars, hard low speed turns revealed that really balanced weight. In the same scenario, say, entering a roundabout, the 348's rear responds over an extra half a second. After the front has already turned in, you can feel the engine in the rear leaning over and sitting on the outside tire. After that transition, the car is settled and will hold as you shoot around the corner. But if you make any steering adjustments while the rear is still setting, the rear bobbles a bit and feels like it can't catch up to the front. I don't find it to be a problem; just trying to describe the characteristics of the car. At 41/59, the 348 is more in the vein of a contemporary 964 (39/61) than a modern Boxster's 46/54. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 09:21
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Individual head units have their own logic for when to trigger the "antenna up" output, some do it when you set to radio, some when you turn the headunit on, etc etc. It should trigger in accessories mode. I second LloydDobler's motion - get the antenna retracted and unplug it, then listen to engine or AUX input 
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Oct 12, 2015 11:21
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Next time you and muffinpox go driving hit me up too, I want to see this beast in action
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Oct 12, 2015 16:16
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  Gonna try to get a quote on fixing it when I drop the car off for installing the skid plates. A refinished wheel is on eBay for $400; I'd rather have any color touchup be local, since it's so small. That's what I get for using a narrower car (C-class) for reference while cutting in. While I'm dwelling on the wheels, a lot of people talk up rear wheel spacers to improve handling and also aesthetics. There's a 15mm option that uses new longer bolts and a 25mm option that uses its own set of bolts: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=224439 I don't think my rear wheels stick out as much as the Before pic there, especially not with tires that have 10mm narrower tread. When I look at the car in person, the rear wheels do sit inboard too much. If there's not a safety issue with spacers, I think I'll do them.
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Oct 13, 2015 05:04
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At the shop. This is what the rear wheel stance looks like: The tech is gonna measure the wheel width just in case, but it seems right. The 92+ wheel has more offset, so that could be an option. Refinishing would be $300, so I'd probably just buy a $400 wheel. The shop is also gonna check on: - a buzz I hear for maybe a 50rpm range when taking off from a start - the possible coolant blowing for the first several minutes from a cold start - if there's any oem targa tips floating out three It's raining this morning, and the targa top is leaking like crazy, puddling water in the seats. They parked it in the shop to get it out of the weather at least. The tech thinks the sealing is not much worse off than stock, so typical Ferrari build quality problems. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 13, 2015 15:30
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That's small enough that a little bit of putty and some good wheel spray would make it almost invisible.
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Oct 13, 2015 16:31
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Have you considered after market wheels? Or wheels from another Ferrari? The offset looks WAY off and doesn't look right at all, the rear wheels need to fill out the wheel well. There would be no shame in going with quality aftermarket wheels that look like they fit the car correctly. As far as the seals go maybe you could try the trick Miata owners use, stuff some weather stripping into the voids of the seals to to "puff" them out and create a better seal. Worked for me, I used the caulk backing method stated at the end of this page: http://www.miata.net/garage/weatherstrip/index.html
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Oct 13, 2015 17:12
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A lot of people use spacers. As long as you get something quality, and get the correct length lug bolts to go with it, you'll be fine. I guarantee you'll like the look better with some spacers to get the wheel closer to the edge of the wheel well.
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Oct 13, 2015 17:29
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leica posted:Have you considered after market wheels? Or wheels from another Ferrari? The offset looks WAY off and doesn't look right at all, the rear wheels need to fill out the wheel well. I really doubt the wheels could be aftermarket; it'd be ever so slightly more likely that they're the 7.5" front wheels and not the 9" rears. And if they measure out correctly, that must be how the car looks stock, which is disappointing. GentlemanofLeisure posted:A lot of people use spacers. As long as you get something quality, and get the correct length lug bolts to go with it, you'll be fine. I guarantee you'll like the look better with some spacers to get the wheel closer to the edge of the wheel well. At the shop, the tech and I agreed that spacers are not ideal, but vanity and aesthetics are big with this car, so I won't rule it out. Ricambi also sells a bolt upgrade for securing the wheels to the spacers: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=224428 I'd probably get it if I got spacers. What gets me is that my tire doesn't look like this already:  That car is running less rear camber than my car and might be the wider 92+, but I doubt I would even get that far out with 1" of spacing.
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Oct 13, 2015 18:24
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A spacer is not really that big of a deal. Size and offset is likely stamped somewhere on the inside of the wheel, like on a spoke or the hub.
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Oct 13, 2015 18:37
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All I could think of was the scene from The Rock where Cage destroys the one he stole. "Dude you just hosed up your Ferrari!"
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Oct 13, 2015 18:57
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If you want spacers, give Motorsport-Tech a call. They make really nice parts here in the states, and they don't carry the Ferrari tax like the ones you posted. http://www.motorsport-tech.com Also, I think leica was saying that you should buy aftermarket wheels for your Ferrari. Older used HRE wheels are usually not too expensive, and many are period correct for Ferraris of that vintage. Being as they are a high end wheel, many are even Ferrari bolt pattern and offset.
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Oct 13, 2015 19:12
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Think I've linked these already http://www.hrewheels.com/wheels/vintage-series/505m These are also p nice http://www.hrewheels.com/wheels/classic-series/305m They aren't cheap though. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 13, 2015 19:19
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mafoose posted:Also, I think leica was saying that you should buy aftermarket wheels for your Ferrari. Older used HRE wheels are usually not too expensive, and many are period correct for Ferraris of that vintage. Being as they are a high end wheel, many are even Ferrari bolt pattern and offset. Yeah that's what I meant. If there aren't any stock options that make you happy by all means go aftermarket, the wheels in the links above look pretty sweet.
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Oct 13, 2015 20:11
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I really like the look of the current wheels. But I'll humor folks and email ("if you have to ask...") HRE about those 505ms. These http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=224439 with the upgraded wheel bolts will be stronger than these http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=263908 right?
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Oct 13, 2015 20:14
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Does your car have wheel bolts or studs? If it's bolts, the ones that bolt on would be easier to use (you don't have to line up the wheel and spacer with the hub and get a bolt started). If it's studs, I would go with longer ones and a spacer that slides on.
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Oct 13, 2015 20:36
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I curbed two of the Lambo's rims (goddamn rear of the car is so wide) and got them both repaired at a local shop for $100. I shudder to think how much actually replacing the rims would be.
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Oct 13, 2015 20:39
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jamal posted:Does your car have wheel bolts or studs? Bolts. I was just thinking about bolt stress as a function of length. The first link has spacers that first bolt to the hub, so it's no more work than before, and I would assume has less bending stress on each bolt, though 10 bolts a side instead of just 5.
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Oct 13, 2015 20:45
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Cross post review of the 348 from autox thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3729338&pagenumber=5&perpage=40#post451398533
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Oct 13, 2015 23:21
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> The gated dogleg shifter is a bit of a pain in the rear end going from 1st to 2nd. You really have to think about making the gearshift, and once you get used to it, it isn't that bad, but it's a bit too involved at times. It can make gear changes seem a bit cludgy. There's drama to it, but I don't want drama when I'm racing. Yeah, the drama of shifting is great for spirited country drives, for when you nail the shift and get that click at the end of the gate, for when you let out the clutch and the rev match was perfect. Every time I drive it, I laugh a couple times after a well-executed shift. The resistance is stiff as soon as you pull away from neutral, but the last 3rd is really stiff -- letting out the clutch before you've got the shift home will result in some crunches as the synchros balk. You have to really shift with authority. Hell, on some 348s, you can't even get it into 2nd until the car's warmed up. "I just go from 1 to 3" - a common owner's defense. This car doesn't have that problem, though 2nd is the hardest normal driving gear to get into. Sometimes, 1st feels partially blocked, but that's a problem on many cars -- just pop into R right quick and then 1. But when it comes to all-out performance driving, that drama gets in the way. The harder you drive, the more shifting becomes the noticeable chore of all your actions. The Viper had a direct mount shifter. It was stiff (as bemoaned by way too many reviews), but it was precise and absolutely positive -- shift it hard and you'll never miss. It's far less fun, but you can tell that it's born from the need for fast driving.
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Oct 14, 2015 00:48
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kimbo305 posted:The Viper had a direct mount shifter. It was stiff (as bemoaned by way too many reviews), but it was precise and absolutely positive -- shift it hard and you'll never miss. It's far less fun, but you can tell that it's born from the need for fast driving. People complained about that? 
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Oct 14, 2015 01:23
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kimbo305 posted:Bolts. I was just thinking about bolt stress as a function of length. The first link has spacers that first bolt to the hub, so it's no more work than before, and I would assume has less bending stress on each bolt, though 10 bolts a side instead of just 5. Theoretically the bolts see zero bending stress. I mean, the wheel doesn't spin slightly or move back and forth once it's tightened down, right? It's the face friction that does all the work. Now if they come slightly loose, all bets are off.
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Oct 14, 2015 03:05
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LloydDobler posted:Theoretically the bolts see zero bending stress. I mean, the wheel doesn't spin slightly or move back and forth once it's tightened down, right? It's the face friction that does all the work. Now if they come slightly loose, all bets are off. Makes sense. There's a FerrariChat thread that went into some depth looking at what happened in a bolt failure: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/159667-stranded-side-road.html It looks like the individual threads' flanks were not interfaced well and had yielded (under overtightening, as suggested by Hill):  Another FC poster gave these very helpful before/after pictures of the 25mm spacer. I flipped a picture for easier comparison.  I think I'm sold -- the Before picture looks like where I'm at now and the After picture is just perfect.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:26
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There's something off there. Why is one of the fog lamps inset and the other not? What's deal with the camber in the before shot? Does totally look better though.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:32
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Sudo Echo posted:There's something off there. Why is one of the fog lamps inset and the other not? What's deal with the camber in the before shot? Does totally look better though. Look at the license plate, and my post  . The poster said he lowered it in After, so he probably had to undo some of the camber. I have about the same camber in the rear as the Before pic.e: there's only one cooling duct, and it's under the right lamp. I've actually never looked up what it cools. Would be a pain to plumb since everything else is in the back.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:34
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It was mostly just the duct thing, I never noticed that it wasn't symmetrical before. The left lamp is inset a bit too. Looking at other 348s online they are all like that so I learned something today. My uncle had one of these and he sold it a year before I got my license and I never got to drive it, but my brother did. This thread isn't as good as a time machine, but it's close. Livin' the dream man.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:48
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With the 348 at the shop, I get a great view of the oil leak that Someone's NB spread all over my parking spot.  I'm pretty sure none of it's from the Ferrari, but my neighbors are getting misinformation about the car 
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Oct 14, 2015 09:18
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Where is the tank for the dry sump anyways?
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Oct 14, 2015 12:21
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kimbo305 posted:Look at the license plate, and my post Brake cooling duct? I know my E60 had sole pretty giant cooling ducts for a "family sedan".
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Oct 14, 2015 12:58
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Not finding what the single duct up front is for yet. rscott posted:Where is the tank for the dry sump anyways? The oil reservoir looks like this:  The cap doubles as the dipstick:  On the 348, MIN to MAX is 2L. You can see the cap in the lower right, pretty much maxmizing polar moment:  In the 355, the oil tank moves up to the firewall where the 348 has the coolant expansion tank. Since it's dry-sumped, you have to check as soon as the engine's off (some people do it while idling) before the oil starts settling. The all-metal cap is way too hot after a drive to touch by hand. Anything to be stylish, I guess.
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Oct 14, 2015 18:52
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This awkward convo happened at the lunch table at work -- two guys were talking about cool cars, and somehow the Ferrari value proposition came up, about whether they were cool enough to be worth it. Neither of these were car guys. The new guy ended up saying, "I've driven one, and they're really worth it, but I wouldn't buy one." Neither guy was bagging on the brand, not that I care. But I just stayed mum, since I haven't broadly mentioned at work that I own one. But eventually, as that convo is going along, my coworker who is a big car guy says, "you know that someone at this table owns a Ferrari, right? kimbo" The two guys sorta clamp up, though I didn't really feel the need or really ability to defend my car choice to non-enthusiasts. It might have been a little extra awkward cuz one of those two happened to be my direct report who just started yesterday. The other guy did the classic half-joking, "so... are you rich or something?" I'm sure we make the same money; I just haven't stepped up to a house or family yet. The only thing I got across was that the 348 was half the cost (well, so far) of the Viper, and that it was fun to drive.
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Oct 14, 2015 21:14
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That's the problem with non-car people talking about cars. They don't know enough to even join the conversation. I'll bet they still have no concept that your fancypants Ferrari costs less than a loaded Jeep Wrangler or loaded GMC mid-sized Acadia.
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Oct 14, 2015 21:46
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Whatever happened to the car's original top, Kimbo? Is replacing them with something aftermarket a common thing, or did the original get screwed up somehow and the PO went with a less expensive replacement?
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Oct 14, 2015 22:25
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I get the same thing to a lesser extent with the BMW (the merc is too beat up for people to think it's worth anything) even though it's a $5-6k car
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Oct 14, 2015 22:46
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Hell I get that poo poo when I drive the loving old Volvo 850 turbowagon. People see European badge and leather with some nice options and automatically assume you're rich even if you're driving a 20 year old shitbox that cost less than the downpayment they just dropped on their new Hyundai.
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Oct 15, 2015 02:13
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meatpimp posted:That's the problem with non-car people talking about cars. They don't know enough to even join the conversation. Haha try talking to non car people about owning a Miata. I don't even try to explain it anymore.
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Oct 15, 2015 03:39
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:Whatever happened to the car's original top, Kimbo? Is replacing them with something aftermarket a common thing, or did the original get screwed up somehow and the PO went with a less expensive replacement? I'm really not sure. The factory top has a plastic wrinkled texture on top, which also works ok on white. I thought I'd seen a better picture than this:  Both the original targa top and the "tonneau" canvas storage flap are gone. This thing:  Maybe they got seriously damaged somehow? Though the flap would have to be wrecked to be unusable. Maybe they got stolen? That'd suck. The technical drawings in this manual are so drat sexy. I'm gonna put some more in the next post.
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Oct 15, 2015 03:43
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This is the plumbing for the oiling system: The coolant plumbing:  The hydraulic booster is not vacuum based -- it uses an electric pump and an accumulator bulb:  Factory alignment specs, which I'll do in the spring:  I didn't even know the steering wheel has tilt adjust!:  That single front duct provides air to cool the condenser:  One reason, I'm sure, why the cooling isn't that effective.
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Oct 15, 2015 03:53
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Skid plates installed: basically extra material to abrade before getting to the expensive stuff. You can see the aftermarket carbon lip getting good use:   They're now the lowest points out front:  The service records don't show the carbon lip getting installed. I guess sheet metal screws are acceptable in this application? You can see the condition of the black paint:  The shop touched it up. The whole car was painted body color, and then this black paint over that. In the later cars, they left it all body color. I think the black sets the car off, especially on a white car. Onto the bad news. There's a couple mild oil leaks going on. An orienting shot of the motor and subframe:  Pop off all the hoses, unbolt, and the whole frame drops out. Yes, it's more work than undoing a cover and swapping the belt, but dropping the motor isn't really the big cost of the major service. Above the main square of the subframe is the gearbox. Exiting over the back of the subframe are the cats -- first time that was confirmed for this car. And forward, the ribbed pan with 2 circular depressions is the oil sump. At the very back is the... flywheel and clutch housing. I still need to sit down and look at exploded diagrams to figure that out. It never once occured to me that the clutch/flywheel could be anything but facing the crank output from the motor, whether directly or at worst through a torque tube. The flywheel inspection plate:  This is a seal leak somewhere. The shop recommended addressing during the major service. Onto the sump:  The oil pump there in front of the engine mount. Not sure what the gilled bracket is for. It definitely looks like someone was lazy and wedged a ratchet in there to get the drain plug. OH WAIT -- that's not the drain plug. It's an access bolt to an adjustment for oil pump pressure. The actual drain plug is facing the firewall, on the front of the sump. To change oil, you'd also have to drain the oil reservoir. So 2 plugs plus a decoy.  Oil's coming from above:  Probably the oil line fitting. The shop said they'll get to it during the oil change. This next picture took me an hour to figure out. There were a few things that tripped me up, particularly lack of real life photos. It was a good brain challenge, though, rotating shapes in my head and doing visual matching. The big hose in the center is gas fill tube going into the tank:  So that's the back side of the alternator (the orignal looks way different, but I should really recognize an alternator), with the bottom plane of the picture being the fuel tank / firewall. The oil is dripping behind the cam gear cover, which is where the shop thinks the leak is. Also deferrable to the major service. A motor out with this area highlighted:  Most 348 motor pictures are already with the covers off to show the belt or belt work being done.
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Oct 16, 2015 09:12
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kimbo305 posted:Both the original targa top and the "tonneau" canvas storage flap are gone. This thing: Capot, Capotte or Capote? That's some proper old-school Italian quality control - they sell you a $100k+ or whatever car, but they can't be bothered to proof read their own manual. Or alternatively the three guys in charge of headings, captions and body text just agreed to disagree because 
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Oct 16, 2015 14:16
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