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The paint might not be red, but at least the car cover is  In the thread crossover episode, ZERO CONES WILL BE HIT, ZERO GIRLS WILL BE HIT UPON WITH OFFERS OF FREE COCAINE.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:30
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MortLansky posted:Was you decision to go with the 348, as opposed to a 328 or 308, a function of performance/dollar? From the casual browsing I've done, there are some nice looking mid engine V8 driving Ferrari's from the 80s-90s that seem to hang around the 30 grand mark. TBH I've never driven one, but I gotta think the 308 is at least on par with the 911s of the day. And with the way air cooled pricing is, the Ferrari is crazily turning into the bargain of the two. Still, I'm insanely jealous of your 348 ownership. Didn't you have a Noble M600 a ways back? What happened to that thing? The only AI poster with a Noble was Comrade Flynn. There were a couple for sale locally, but I couldn't get over the insanely kit car feel. I didn't have a problem with that in the 818, since it was selling for $19k. As mentioned above, I think the 308 and 328 look too dated, grounded in the 70s. From what I've read, the handling improvements in the 348 are really noticeable over the 328. If that's the case, I wouldn't want to step back. For sure, the 348 would be even more enjoyable with another 75hp at its disposal like the 355, but there's no way I could convince myself it was worth it to take on the additional powertrain issues the 355 has.
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Oct 10, 2015 19:49
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HotCanadianChick posted:Apparently the 348 chassis was used as the test mule for the Enzo prototypes. http://sa3.1-themes.com/ferrari-enzo-prototype.php quote:And you better take back that comment about the 308/328 looking dated, those and the Dino are the best aging vintage Ferraris. It's the 512 and 348 that are perpetually stuck in a decade (the 80's). The 512 (well, the Testarossa specifically) is way way stuck in the 80s, but in a good way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSeTTtdt2OQ&t=4s The BB 512s are timeless, and I think why the 355 swung back that way styling-wise.
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Oct 10, 2015 21:21
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Joyrode it a bit this afternoon. Got on the interstate for a couple miles. I was saying to myself, "man, the wind noise on this targa top is pretty bad at cruising speeds," and when I checked the speedo, I was going 90. Might be a little less since these tires are slighly smaller. In all situations, this car encourages you to rev it out. I think a common characterization of Ferraris is that they're high-strung, which makes it sound like it can rev high but not really enjoy itself there. That's so opposite to the truth -- it thrives as the RPMs climb. The S2000 was the same way, though the VTEC blip was a distraction. Here, the run up to 7800 is linear and totally sweet. The throttle response is sensitive and delicate, and the engine braking equally fine-tunable with your foot. When I turned the car off, I heard some ominous clonks coming from the back. Then I realized it was the retractable antenna retracting. I wonder if I should grease it, or if that would cause more problems with pulled in grit. I regreased the targa seals, which were squeaking again, and wiped Hide Care on the driver's seat. The wear on the left boster is more than I originally thought, so now I'm gonna be more delicate when getting into and out of the car. I don't think I've ever paid attention to any of my cars' interiors this way. But it's part of the feel of the car, so I'll def put in the work.
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Oct 11, 2015 23:11
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The seatback tilt adjuster is handed, but the seat belt plugs are bolted to the tracks. I think you can swap everything but the seat belt bits, from what I've read on the forums, along with this warning "Ferrari interiors are hand built so it wouldn't surprise me if all the bolt holes didn't line up once you made the switch." The seat has some front and back looseness; I'm gonna take a look at the bolts holding down the tracks to see if they're not tight. I really hope it's not that; that would be pretty amateur given the otherwise good maintenance on the car. I'm ever so slightly worried about applying a flammable oil to the antenna while it's out, which afaik is only when the motor is running. Maybe it's also accessories mode? But it retracts as soon as the motor is shut off, putting it inside the engine bay.
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Oct 12, 2015 07:17
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Well, maybe this explains the clonking:  Haven't decided if I'll take it for a diagnostic drive to try to figure out the antenna behavior. The 4 allen key bolts that hold down the seat rails can be exposed by sliding the seat full front and full back. And peeling back some carpet for the front. I was glad to have the wide door sill to sit on while contorting around. The driver's bolts actually were somewhat loose. I torqued them down hand tight and tried the seat out -- it actually felt better! There's still some slop in the seat rails, but no more tilt on the seat base like before. Found this while I was down there:  Always a little unnerving to see cut wiring, but it looks really old, so I hope it's been fine. And pried out the old glove box strut. The glovebox sits right in front what what Muffinpox heard was called the coke shelf:  And with the new $50 strut swapped in, the glovebox cover now stays open:  What's hilarious is that even with a brand new strut, the cover barely works. The slightest tap is enough to collapse the cover.
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Oct 12, 2015 08:47
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LloydDobler posted:I hate the radio so I always switch out or just disconnect the power antenna, leaving it retracted. Also all my aftermarket car stereos have had smart antenna signalling so the antenna only extends when the radio is on anyway. I'd think this car would have a factory antenna switch, no? Or are you actually listening to the radio? It's got an aftermarket head unit, but I dunno how it would be hooked up. I'll try switching from radio to aux to see. I had the radio on, but just turned it down once I realized the engine is all that matters. I really need to put that driving CD together. This will be the opening song: https://makeupandvanityset.bandcamp.com/track/search-the-night e: went for that drive. Head unit does properly control the antenna, so putting in aux brings the antenna back down (and all the way -- whatever snag caught it last time isn't fatal yet). I'm still wrapping my head around the handling of the car. The 92 and later 348s got a wider rear track and a lowered suspension pickup for the rear upper A-arms, which supposedly plants the rear more, in contrast to the earlier 348s with their higher rear roll center. That weight in the back is definitely noticeable. The last two cars I've driven, the C6 Z06 and the Viper, had 50/50 and 49/51 weight F/R respectively. For both cars, hard low speed turns revealed that really balanced weight. In the same scenario, say, entering a roundabout, the 348's rear responds over an extra half a second. After the front has already turned in, you can feel the engine in the rear leaning over and sitting on the outside tire. After that transition, the car is settled and will hold as you shoot around the corner. But if you make any steering adjustments while the rear is still setting, the rear bobbles a bit and feels like it can't catch up to the front. I don't find it to be a problem; just trying to describe the characteristics of the car. At 41/59, the 348 is more in the vein of a contemporary 964 (39/61) than a modern Boxster's 46/54. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 09:21
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  Gonna try to get a quote on fixing it when I drop the car off for installing the skid plates. A refinished wheel is on eBay for $400; I'd rather have any color touchup be local, since it's so small. That's what I get for using a narrower car (C-class) for reference while cutting in. While I'm dwelling on the wheels, a lot of people talk up rear wheel spacers to improve handling and also aesthetics. There's a 15mm option that uses new longer bolts and a 25mm option that uses its own set of bolts: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=224439 I don't think my rear wheels stick out as much as the Before pic there, especially not with tires that have 10mm narrower tread. When I look at the car in person, the rear wheels do sit inboard too much. If there's not a safety issue with spacers, I think I'll do them.
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Oct 13, 2015 05:04
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At the shop. This is what the rear wheel stance looks like: The tech is gonna measure the wheel width just in case, but it seems right. The 92+ wheel has more offset, so that could be an option. Refinishing would be $300, so I'd probably just buy a $400 wheel. The shop is also gonna check on: - a buzz I hear for maybe a 50rpm range when taking off from a start - the possible coolant blowing for the first several minutes from a cold start - if there's any oem targa tips floating out three It's raining this morning, and the targa top is leaking like crazy, puddling water in the seats. They parked it in the shop to get it out of the weather at least. The tech thinks the sealing is not much worse off than stock, so typical Ferrari build quality problems. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 13, 2015 15:30
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leica posted:Have you considered after market wheels? Or wheels from another Ferrari? The offset looks WAY off and doesn't look right at all, the rear wheels need to fill out the wheel well. I really doubt the wheels could be aftermarket; it'd be ever so slightly more likely that they're the 7.5" front wheels and not the 9" rears. And if they measure out correctly, that must be how the car looks stock, which is disappointing. GentlemanofLeisure posted:A lot of people use spacers. As long as you get something quality, and get the correct length lug bolts to go with it, you'll be fine. I guarantee you'll like the look better with some spacers to get the wheel closer to the edge of the wheel well. At the shop, the tech and I agreed that spacers are not ideal, but vanity and aesthetics are big with this car, so I won't rule it out. Ricambi also sells a bolt upgrade for securing the wheels to the spacers: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=224428 I'd probably get it if I got spacers. What gets me is that my tire doesn't look like this already:  That car is running less rear camber than my car and might be the wider 92+, but I doubt I would even get that far out with 1" of spacing.
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Oct 13, 2015 18:24
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I really like the look of the current wheels. But I'll humor folks and email ("if you have to ask...") HRE about those 505ms. These http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=224439 with the upgraded wheel bolts will be stronger than these http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=263908 right?
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Oct 13, 2015 20:14
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jamal posted:Does your car have wheel bolts or studs? Bolts. I was just thinking about bolt stress as a function of length. The first link has spacers that first bolt to the hub, so it's no more work than before, and I would assume has less bending stress on each bolt, though 10 bolts a side instead of just 5.
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Oct 13, 2015 20:45
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> The gated dogleg shifter is a bit of a pain in the rear end going from 1st to 2nd. You really have to think about making the gearshift, and once you get used to it, it isn't that bad, but it's a bit too involved at times. It can make gear changes seem a bit cludgy. There's drama to it, but I don't want drama when I'm racing. Yeah, the drama of shifting is great for spirited country drives, for when you nail the shift and get that click at the end of the gate, for when you let out the clutch and the rev match was perfect. Every time I drive it, I laugh a couple times after a well-executed shift. The resistance is stiff as soon as you pull away from neutral, but the last 3rd is really stiff -- letting out the clutch before you've got the shift home will result in some crunches as the synchros balk. You have to really shift with authority. Hell, on some 348s, you can't even get it into 2nd until the car's warmed up. "I just go from 1 to 3" - a common owner's defense. This car doesn't have that problem, though 2nd is the hardest normal driving gear to get into. Sometimes, 1st feels partially blocked, but that's a problem on many cars -- just pop into R right quick and then 1. But when it comes to all-out performance driving, that drama gets in the way. The harder you drive, the more shifting becomes the noticeable chore of all your actions. The Viper had a direct mount shifter. It was stiff (as bemoaned by way too many reviews), but it was precise and absolutely positive -- shift it hard and you'll never miss. It's far less fun, but you can tell that it's born from the need for fast driving.
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Oct 14, 2015 00:48
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LloydDobler posted:Theoretically the bolts see zero bending stress. I mean, the wheel doesn't spin slightly or move back and forth once it's tightened down, right? It's the face friction that does all the work. Now if they come slightly loose, all bets are off. Makes sense. There's a FerrariChat thread that went into some depth looking at what happened in a bolt failure: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/159667-stranded-side-road.html It looks like the individual threads' flanks were not interfaced well and had yielded (under overtightening, as suggested by Hill):  Another FC poster gave these very helpful before/after pictures of the 25mm spacer. I flipped a picture for easier comparison.  I think I'm sold -- the Before picture looks like where I'm at now and the After picture is just perfect.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:26
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Sudo Echo posted:There's something off there. Why is one of the fog lamps inset and the other not? What's deal with the camber in the before shot? Does totally look better though. Look at the license plate, and my post  . The poster said he lowered it in After, so he probably had to undo some of the camber. I have about the same camber in the rear as the Before pic.e: there's only one cooling duct, and it's under the right lamp. I've actually never looked up what it cools. Would be a pain to plumb since everything else is in the back.
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Oct 14, 2015 08:34
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With the 348 at the shop, I get a great view of the oil leak that Someone's NB spread all over my parking spot.  I'm pretty sure none of it's from the Ferrari, but my neighbors are getting misinformation about the car 
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Oct 14, 2015 09:18
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Not finding what the single duct up front is for yet. rscott posted:Where is the tank for the dry sump anyways? The oil reservoir looks like this:  The cap doubles as the dipstick:  On the 348, MIN to MAX is 2L. You can see the cap in the lower right, pretty much maxmizing polar moment:  In the 355, the oil tank moves up to the firewall where the 348 has the coolant expansion tank. Since it's dry-sumped, you have to check as soon as the engine's off (some people do it while idling) before the oil starts settling. The all-metal cap is way too hot after a drive to touch by hand. Anything to be stylish, I guess.
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Oct 14, 2015 18:52
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This awkward convo happened at the lunch table at work -- two guys were talking about cool cars, and somehow the Ferrari value proposition came up, about whether they were cool enough to be worth it. Neither of these were car guys. The new guy ended up saying, "I've driven one, and they're really worth it, but I wouldn't buy one." Neither guy was bagging on the brand, not that I care. But I just stayed mum, since I haven't broadly mentioned at work that I own one. But eventually, as that convo is going along, my coworker who is a big car guy says, "you know that someone at this table owns a Ferrari, right? kimbo" The two guys sorta clamp up, though I didn't really feel the need or really ability to defend my car choice to non-enthusiasts. It might have been a little extra awkward cuz one of those two happened to be my direct report who just started yesterday. The other guy did the classic half-joking, "so... are you rich or something?" I'm sure we make the same money; I just haven't stepped up to a house or family yet. The only thing I got across was that the 348 was half the cost (well, so far) of the Viper, and that it was fun to drive.
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Oct 14, 2015 21:14
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:Whatever happened to the car's original top, Kimbo? Is replacing them with something aftermarket a common thing, or did the original get screwed up somehow and the PO went with a less expensive replacement? I'm really not sure. The factory top has a plastic wrinkled texture on top, which also works ok on white. I thought I'd seen a better picture than this:  Both the original targa top and the "tonneau" canvas storage flap are gone. This thing:  Maybe they got seriously damaged somehow? Though the flap would have to be wrecked to be unusable. Maybe they got stolen? That'd suck. The technical drawings in this manual are so drat sexy. I'm gonna put some more in the next post.
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Oct 15, 2015 03:43
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This is the plumbing for the oiling system: The coolant plumbing:  The hydraulic booster is not vacuum based -- it uses an electric pump and an accumulator bulb:  Factory alignment specs, which I'll do in the spring:  I didn't even know the steering wheel has tilt adjust!:  That single front duct provides air to cool the condenser:  One reason, I'm sure, why the cooling isn't that effective.
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Oct 15, 2015 03:53
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Skid plates installed: basically extra material to abrade before getting to the expensive stuff. You can see the aftermarket carbon lip getting good use:   They're now the lowest points out front:  The service records don't show the carbon lip getting installed. I guess sheet metal screws are acceptable in this application? You can see the condition of the black paint:  The shop touched it up. The whole car was painted body color, and then this black paint over that. In the later cars, they left it all body color. I think the black sets the car off, especially on a white car. Onto the bad news. There's a couple mild oil leaks going on. An orienting shot of the motor and subframe:  Pop off all the hoses, unbolt, and the whole frame drops out. Yes, it's more work than undoing a cover and swapping the belt, but dropping the motor isn't really the big cost of the major service. Above the main square of the subframe is the gearbox. Exiting over the back of the subframe are the cats -- first time that was confirmed for this car. And forward, the ribbed pan with 2 circular depressions is the oil sump. At the very back is the... flywheel and clutch housing. I still need to sit down and look at exploded diagrams to figure that out. It never once occured to me that the clutch/flywheel could be anything but facing the crank output from the motor, whether directly or at worst through a torque tube. The flywheel inspection plate:  This is a seal leak somewhere. The shop recommended addressing during the major service. Onto the sump:  The oil pump there in front of the engine mount. Not sure what the gilled bracket is for. It definitely looks like someone was lazy and wedged a ratchet in there to get the drain plug. OH WAIT -- that's not the drain plug. It's an access bolt to an adjustment for oil pump pressure. The actual drain plug is facing the firewall, on the front of the sump. To change oil, you'd also have to drain the oil reservoir. So 2 plugs plus a decoy.  Oil's coming from above:  Probably the oil line fitting. The shop said they'll get to it during the oil change. This next picture took me an hour to figure out. There were a few things that tripped me up, particularly lack of real life photos. It was a good brain challenge, though, rotating shapes in my head and doing visual matching. The big hose in the center is gas fill tube going into the tank:  So that's the back side of the alternator (the orignal looks way different, but I should really recognize an alternator), with the bottom plane of the picture being the fuel tank / firewall. The oil is dripping behind the cam gear cover, which is where the shop thinks the leak is. Also deferrable to the major service. A motor out with this area highlighted:  Most 348 motor pictures are already with the covers off to show the belt or belt work being done.
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Oct 16, 2015 09:12
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At gas station: "Nice Ferrari, man." "Thanks." "Is that a real one or is it a kit?" "A real one." "Cool, what year?" "1991." "An older one -- what model?" "A 348"
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Oct 17, 2015 09:08
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InitialDave posted:How did he express the "An older one"? Just talking out loud and orienting himself to the age, I think. I haven't decided if it's rude to ask someone if their car is a replica or kit. The few times I talk to someone with a 356, I'll ask, so I guess I'm guilty of it myself. And I certainly do it for every Cobra I see. I saw that one of the tail light bulbs was out. Ordered 6 bulbs for $15 shipped, figuring some of the others (and the brake lights, which use the same bulb) might go soon. Also found out about this site: https://www.superbrightleds.com The units are more expensive but will probably last longer. I'll look into it for replacing the dome light or anything in the dash if those burn out.
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Oct 17, 2015 21:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:For what it's worth, the rollbar is usually a good giveaway of a clone Cobra - most of the kits beef that up quite a bit compared to Shelby's mousetrap. Of those three examples (348, 356, Cobra), I'm sure the ratio of replica:real is the highest for the Cobra, so I feel the most confident before I ask that it is a replica. And the Cobra replica is most likely to have incongruous go-fast parts on it, like racing seats. After driving the car more, I've decided for sure to get an aftermarket exhaust. The shop is gonna ring up the vendor and see if they can get a discount. I will get a reference video at some point of the stock exhaust and then a comparison video down the road. I don't want to say too much just in case it doesn't all work out for some reason.
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Oct 17, 2015 22:02
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BlackMK4 posted:Dumb question - why hasn't anyone made a flatplane kit for something like the LS motor. I dunno if this would be cheaper or practical plumbing-wise, but: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoAPfJ4Rkbs e: got some Rain-X wipers when I saw the sale notice on Jalopnik; put those on today. Confirmed that the tail light bulbs should be easy to get to. Greased the side walls of the shift plate, since it was squeaking when I slid the shifter against the side of a gate. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 08:38 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 06:31
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Tapet posted:Apologies if He's talking just the French column, though. On some other page, there's some word in the English column that is clearly the Italian writer going, what's the English word for this? Probably like the Italian word; I'll leave the 'i' off the end and I'm sure it'll be fine. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 10:38
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The most embarassing Ferrari encounter I've had so far was going to the mall on Sunday, parking in the back half of a pretty empty lot, and coming back to see an F430 also parked back there, but slanted across 4 spaces. The lady driving it pulled a couple of clothing store bags out of the frunk (which, maybe unsurprisingly, is rear hinged) and marched off. I couldn't bring myself to go over and see if it was manual or automatic. I just wanted to get out of there to make sure anyone else passing through didn't group me into the same driving mentality as her.neckbeard posted:That was an F355 spider though (I feel like such a pedantic nerd saying pointing that out) There's no popular representations of the 348 in movies, I think  .The chase at the start of The Rock, the start of Goldeneye, and in F&F -- it's all 355s. That said, the motor sounds those cars make are pretty true to life. After the test drive, the first thing that came to mind was the 355 tearing around San Francisco.
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Oct 18, 2015 20:54
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14 INCH DICK posted:My favorite Ferrari experience actually involved a red 348 flying up the on ramp to 280 in San Jose just south of where it crosses 101, and I swear to god it was a real life picture perfect recreation of that old Genesis or NES game (it's been years but you know the one) where a red 348 with the targa off came flying up that long sweeping up hander ramp with at least 15* yaw off center, possibly 20*, dude with huge shades and Miami vice hair flawlessly hanging the rear end end out continuing across three lanes to the carpool lane, and some trophy blonde in the seat next to him with her hands in the air. Then hammered it and dissapeared.   e: neckbeard, I know it's not a 348, dammit. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 23:14
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Raluek posted:Yeah, looks like nothing popular (at least, nothing I recognize). Scent of a Woman, a Jackie Chan docu, and then this: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0667950/?ref_=ttep_ep3
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Oct 19, 2015 03:40
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That cracked belt makes my blood run cold: http://blog.motorcarstudio.com/?p=262 Also, in thinking about how the car behaves dynamically and how it makes me feel, I refer to Chris Harris driving the 458 Speciale: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysaE9i2RNyE&t=416s The rear does swing about, but with all the feel you have available, it doesn't feel sudden or threatening.
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Oct 19, 2015 05:51
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wallaka posted:The cracked alternator belt? Right, I had thought changing any belt up front required dropping the motor, but fortunately, it's not that bad. If you have the car on jacks or a lift, there's more than enough space to unbolt the alternator and then undo the belt. Which I guess you'd have to do to undo the A/C belt.
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Oct 19, 2015 18:45
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I'd be curious what their worldwide sales distribution is. If it's like 80% Middle East and China, I wonder if they'll have sustainable sales numbers in a couple years.
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Oct 20, 2015 01:16
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Calling it now: The IPO will mark the beginning of the end for Ferrari 1.0 That would make their bid to go more mainstream successful, I think. There's more noveau riche buyers who don't care if the cars hew to any tradition than there are loyalists.
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Oct 20, 2015 03:29
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I asked earlier about adhesives and high temps. Well, this is it. Under the engine lid, there's two panels of adhensive-backed foam insulation. Over time, the foam degrades and the adhesive loosens, sagging the foam over the intake plenum. I thought it was happening to me:  At the shop, the tech helpfully pointed out that, hey, the wax backing has never been peeled off this sagging panel. The adhesive felt tacky enough that I thought I could salvage it. But I wanted to make sure, hence the questions about high-temp adhesives. I did end up ordering the oven glue. An aside on obsessive Ferrari owners. While looking up alternatives, I ran into this post: "I just purchased a 1992 348 TS and the foam insulation under the hood is sagging and looks dingy. I called Dan at Ricambi American and he suggusted a silver metallic material from JC Whitney. If I wish to enter the car in a concours in the Preservation class, will I need the original material?" The answer is yes, Pebble Beach will kick your rear end out if you try to bring that JC Whitney poo poo in here. Unbolt the 4 10mm bolts holding the engine lid up. Lift it away to your work zone. I'm not that strong, and after working out tonight, I was nervous about picking the engine lid up and not scratching anything. It's an easy two-man job but a hard one-man job. Plop a shallow tray here and you have a 348amino:  You can see how the rear slope of the car is a complete illusion from the buttresses. The next part, I don't have pics for. Both hands were smeared with oven glue and I wanted to just get through it. The glue feels like rubber cement and smells like geraniums. I'm sure it's really bad to get all over your skin for as long as I had it. - pulled the foam panel out - tore half the backing off, taking 50% of the adhesive with it in strips - put the still-backed half back into place - spread oven glue on the exposed engine lid and let it set for a minute - carefully fed the foam under the crossbar, trying to preserve adhesive and not smear it anywhere - pulled the still-backed half back out and repeated for the other side - put the foam down to seat it into the glue Doing it halves was my idea to have the foam panel correctly aligned with the lid and not to have the adhesive side flailing around everywhere. Did not nail that -- it's about 1/2" over to the right. The one half-rear end I did was to leave in two short strips of double-sided foam tape had tried to secure the foam with. Glued right over those two. They were stuck down too tight.The end result:  You can see the slight gap on the left. The glue doesn't have to hold much weight, but it's fighting heat and vibration. Here's hoping everything holds. I then carefully put the lid back on, placing the edge against the bottom of the rear window seal, using a stick to prop the end up to help get the angle right. After tediously hand threading the bolts back in, I took time to align the engine lid right -- it was cocked to the left a tiny bit after my strut replacement. Then ratcheted the bolts back in. They were in there pretty loose. I set them to 6Nm, going by my bike work hand feel.  The yellow sticker gives the paint code. The black plaque in the upper right is the fill fluids reference. The sticker in the center is some hose routing diagram. All concours-correct, I hope, now that I've spent the trouble of preserving the factory foam insulation. Saw this while I was in there:  The muffler heatshield is not really thin sheet aluminum as I'd thought, but silver painted fiberglass. The left support has ripped completely free, probably leading to some of the rattles I've been hearing. I'm not dying to patch this up yet. I'll wait until I decide what to do for exhaust. I'm letting the lid stay up while the glue sets, being paranoid about airing out any outgassing flammable glue components. When I saw this angle:  I immediately thought to myself, I need to shoot a short movie where there's a Miami Vice style drug deal, and the criminal opens the engine lid from this angle and pulls out a duffel bag. That would irk gearheads just enough. Anyways, you can also see the inboardness of the rear wheel. Spacers are on their way and I look forward to gaining that ~visual inch~. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 20, 2015 06:22
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2 more factoids: the driver's seat is 1.5" closer to the center of the car compared to the passenger's seat. This is one of the few cars I've driven where you have to reach a bit to rest your elbow on the door armrest. the most painful DIY task on some Ferraris, including the 348, is "sticky buttons," where the surface of black interior trim pieces melts, gets gooey, and starts coming off. You can do it yourself by soaking and brushing and repainting, or you can send it off to a specialty vendor that will do it for you, the most prominent of which is a FerrariChat forum sponsor. Some guy was doing a restoration project thread on FC, and did a bang-up job unstickying his interior pieces. He said his plan was to become a competing cleaning service, at which point some of the posters jumped down his throat even though he was a long-time contributor. The site owner eventually sided against him and the dude left, taking prospects of having that service materialize. The DIY guys were also pissed because the dude never revealed the spray paint he found that was a perfect color and texture match. Anyways, my car has been destickied a long time ago, so I won't have to suffer through that one.
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Oct 21, 2015 00:01
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revmoo posted:Ferrari is literally BMW The 348 has a pretty solid cooling system. I hope, at least. I got the autox photog to take out the painter's tape and antenna:  The other angles were good, but this one has the wheels in phase, which sealed the deal.
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Oct 21, 2015 23:37
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Replaced the burnt bulb in the left tail light tonight. Find the 4 handscrews around the cover, one at each corner:  Each handscrew is plastic around a brass nut. Unbolt and set aside the handscrews and pull the cover clear of the bolts:  There's that pair of bolts in the middle that has no matching handscrews.  Slide the cover to the left, and then you'll have clearance to pull it back and off:  Now you're dealing with a typical 90s DIYable setup. Rotate the bulb holder CCW 90deg to undo it:  I'm not sure why that reflector bowl in the center doesn't have anything plugged into it. I guess it could be for Euro spec? Also not sure why the new e: 1156 bulb is larger:  Doesn't have clearance problems going through the hole or to the glass, though. Installation is reverse of removal. Getting the bolts centered through the cover holes was tricky. I'm lucky this was the left side -- the right cover has the power antenna mount bolted to it, which'd need a lot more work to uncover. I was a bit paranoid about setting the handscrews to the right torque. The right cover's felt a little loose, so I snugged them up. Didn't test that it worked. I'll try to do that tomorrow before I drive it. That drive will also test to see if the foam holds up. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Oct 22, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 07:48
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Drive report: car did not burn up in the parking lot at the colo: Foam seems to be holding. Bulb replacement didn't work, though. I very vaguely remember walking around the car to check all lights, but can't remember if I did it with the headlights up. cursedshitbox posted:Your old bulb looks something like a 1003, not a 1156. One of the major 348 reference sites says all rear bulbs are 1156, but I'm willing to try others. I'll try swapping in a working bulb to see if the wiring works. If that does, I guess I could use the bulb in the toolkit.
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Oct 22, 2015 17:31
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Spot anything asymmetrical? I was asking about how battery cables should be routed, and an FC posted spotted that the left vent ducting hose was sagged. The end of the hose had come unplugged from the vent through the C-pillar. I plugged it back up. I think it's just friction fit. Wonder how much hotter the overall air feeding the engine was. Probably not much. Here's an engine-out shot of the left hose's routing:  Each tail light (the light that stays on when the headlights are on) has 3 bulbs. I swapped the new bulb in the burnt position with the adjacent bulb. If both bulbs light, great, but it doesn't make sense. If the burnt bulb stays dead, something's up with the wiring. Which maybe is likely, as I noticed a spliced wire leading into the bulb holder. If the burnt bulb lights, then the replacement bulb was wrong. I like when I can map things out as truth tables. Feeds the CS part of my brain. Oh, I also found a lozenge-sized piece of gravel wedged between the rear bodywork and the exhaust shield. e: wheel spacers came in. Will try to do this weekend. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 23, 2015 05:00
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Trans Ferdinand posted:I know Ferrari 400 prices are low, but I would hesitate to call any 12-cylinder Ferrari "affordable". My problem with 400s is that they have cater to a pretty narrow band of taste:  Flatteringly, you can call it dignified and restrained. A super mint one didn't make reserve for $58k: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-ferrari-365gt4-22/ A decent 360 can be had for $60k or so. I think it's about the same maintenance pattern as the 348 -- costly major service, but otherwise pretty reliable. I think the detractors for me for 360 vs 348 were: - it has the new Ferrari look and carries more of that stigma - it's a modern car that won't be as raw or different-feeling - i think the 430 looks much better than the 360. I think the 355 looks better than the 348, and it's supposed to be a better driver, too, but the nice ones were $90k and the cheap ones have too many scary issues
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Oct 25, 2015 05:00
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