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Those clips are all over old SU carb linkages, like on my old Volvo. I always just used a mini screwdriver to pop them loose, by pushing on the little loop end. Way easier than trying to get a pliers on it. Gorgeous car, thanks for the thread.
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Sep 21, 2015 17:28
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 06:21 |
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That's bullshit, those aren't even exotic tire sizes anymore. Hell I run the same size as the fronts for winter tires on my Volvo wagon.
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Sep 25, 2015 06:38
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I hate the radio so I always switch out or just disconnect the power antenna, leaving it retracted. Also all my aftermarket car stereos have had smart antenna signalling so the antenna only extends when the radio is on anyway. I'd think this car would have a factory antenna switch, no? Or are you actually listening to the radio?
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Oct 12, 2015 09:01
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kimbo305 posted:Bolts. I was just thinking about bolt stress as a function of length. The first link has spacers that first bolt to the hub, so it's no more work than before, and I would assume has less bending stress on each bolt, though 10 bolts a side instead of just 5. Theoretically the bolts see zero bending stress. I mean, the wheel doesn't spin slightly or move back and forth once it's tightened down, right? It's the face friction that does all the work. Now if they come slightly loose, all bets are off.
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Oct 14, 2015 03:05
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If I really wanted to know if my torque wrench was right I'd buy one of these so I could calibrate in house: http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM60...e+wrench+tester Also, the screw pins that hold the rotor on are to make it easier to line up the wheel for the bolts. Volvos have those by default but most custom wheels can't accommodate them so they get taken out immediately. Lining up the bolt holes is a pain in the rear end without them.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:59
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kimbo305 posted:Ferrari wisely put a lip on the hub, so things are easy enough once you manage to get the rim centered enough to get onto the lip. From there, lining up the bolt holes is academic. What's funny is that I used to remove those screws and just toss them, until I got a decent car with rotors and hubs that were so corrosion free that the rotor could spin on the hub fairly easily. So when trying to line up my wheel, as soon as I touched the hub it would spin inside the rotor and now nothing is lined up and !@#$%#!
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Oct 26, 2015 22:25
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That's one thing I like about beam type torque wrenches, they really can't go out of calibration. If the arrow points to zero at rest, and there's no damage to the beam, it's gonna be right. Shouldn't matter how you put the lugs in, I'd go one at a time just to keep from having to jack up the car.
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Nov 5, 2015 10:33
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Geirskogul posted:Beam wrenches can go out of calibration and spec while still pointing to zero, but at that point you just buy a new one. So, same idea? Not to argue, but for discussion's sake how do you think that's possible? My understanding is that you'd have to change the properties of the steel for that to happen.
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Nov 6, 2015 06:05
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kimbo305 posted:
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Nov 8, 2015 15:14
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While I didn't twist the wire all up like in that graphic, I can testify that a weak solder joint can vibrate apart in an automotive setting. I always crimp now. If it's in the engine bay I use the heatshrinkable crimp connectors.
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Jan 30, 2016 07:11
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Doesn't sound good, hope it's something simple and treatable.
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Mar 24, 2016 22:39
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Last time I had that dilemma the "fun car" was a 15 year old Saab. 
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Apr 8, 2016 19:19
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 06:21 |
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Awesome ride! Count me among those who followed this from the beginning. One of the greatest things about this forum is the sharing and vicarious experience of cars that I wouldn't even want to own, or hadn't considered owning, or couldn't afford to own. And it's so much more real than car magazine talk. So thanks for the thread and please continue with the next car. That goes for everyone here.
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Jan 27, 2017 08:26
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