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Yeah that exhaust is stupid amazing. This thread and csb are really making me want a bricknose. I learned to drive in my dad's 95 it was such a smooth truck and could take anything you threw at it. We put straight pipes on it before selling it and man did that 5.slow sound so good.
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May 23, 2016 00:35
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I followed your old thread and always wondered what happened. I wish I could've suggested an engine before you bought the Suzuki: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-08-11-...PxXP1Ju&vxp=mtr Yes, It's a bike engine. The engine/clutch/transmission is all one unit, weighs 137 lbs and makes 177 HP at the crank. I've been looking for a project car to drop one in, and your Opel would've been perfect.
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May 23, 2016 00:41
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That was the most realistic Seafoaming footage I've ever seen. It even has that little bit that I get every time where you're like "oh is that it  " followed by "OH OH poo poo NO HERE IT COMES    "
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May 23, 2016 05:33
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I remember reading this thread around when I started engineering school! ME is best discipline 
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May 23, 2016 06:15
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I'll just leave these here... http://www.prima-racing.com/bridgestones-new-re-71r-the-new-street-tire-track-day-king-part-one/ http://www.prima-racing.com/bridgestones-new-re-71r-the-new-street-tire-track-day-king-part-two/
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May 23, 2016 06:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That was the most realistic Seafoaming footage I've ever seen. It even has that little bit that I get every time where you're like "oh is that it The best seafaoming I've done was a Ford Escort with 418k that created a small nuclear winter over my driveway for about 15 minutes and a worried neighbour telling me to stop revving the engine because, by his observation, something was terribly hosed with my car.
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May 23, 2016 07:01
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Yeah about that, I had to cut the first clip short because my neighbor came running over with a fire extinguisher  I guess from her vantage point the smoke was coming out of the engine bay and I was frantically doing something to the engine (trying to pour seafoam into a vacuum line with one hand and keep the truck running with the other) Nomex posted:I followed your old thread and always wondered what happened. I wish I could've suggested an engine before you bought the Suzuki: For some fun reading, these guys Hayabusa powered a Miata: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1519/Project-MiataBusa--Part-1-What-The-Hell-Are-We-Thinking.aspx charliemonster42 posted:I'll just leave these here... Unrelated photos for your viewing pleasure:  
MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 02:58 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 01:26
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There was a small break in the rain last weekend so I wire brushed the entire frame of the truck by hand and started shooting rust converting paint... At midnight  I also added 16,000 lumens worth of Costco LED lights to my shop!  These things rock, they're all daisy chained off of one outlet and are bright as hell. Now I can finally work at night and actually see what I'm doing  Oh, and then I sold my beloved Ducati, drove 4.5 hours, and bought a car in Georgia     More on that later, I need to get the rest of the truck frame painted so I can slap on the bed today and fix the ridiculous parking situation I've created.  Opel progress is happening, I promise. Anyone want to buy my 2005 Ford Police Interceptor? MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 15:50
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Just when I thought you couldn't get any cooler. Sup ZE1 twin:  I still need to take mine apart further before putting it all back together 
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Jun 11, 2016 16:31
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71.4mpg holy poo poo. Is that trip average or car's lifetime average?
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Jun 12, 2016 00:19
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Just when I thought you couldn't get any cooler. Sup ZE1 twin: They're seriously cool cars. When I first heard about hybrids, the first gen Insight always seemed like Honda engineered the gently caress out of it and got it right. It's small, ultralight, and has exactly enough horsepower to do what it needs.For those who've forgotten about the Insight; it's all aluminum (even the body), weighs 1,870lbs, is crazy aerodynamic (0.25Cd), has an electric motor on the flywheel of a cool little 995cc inline 3 engine that can operate at a 25.8:1 air fuel ratio.  The Insight's fuel economy record was unbroken for sixteen years until Toyota released the 2016 Prius Eco. I have a hunch Honda made the first gen Insight at a loss. neckbeard posted:71.4mpg holy poo poo. Is that trip average or car's lifetime average? Here's a shot of the lifetime fuel economy and a bonus shot of the odometer hitting 123,456 miles as of last night:  The car is super clean, the POs all had it serviced by a Honda dealer with full records and, mindblowingly, the battery was replaced two years ago and is going to be good for at least another 100k miles. A friend of mine has an Insight with 250,000 miles on the original battery and it's still going strong.   Doesn't look like there's much storage but that hatch under the cargo area is fairly deep and there's even more room below it where the spare tire lives.  Really glad mine has the 5 speed, the CVT sounds fairly miserable to live with and the fuel economy isn't nearly as good. Note how similar the steering wheel is to the S2000. This car was made alongside the NSX and S2k so I wonder if it's actually the same part.  Wonderfully bucketed seats, I'm so used to huge American bench seats it took a while getting used to not having to brace myself in corners.  Where the magic happens  Back to project vehicle #002, yesterday I wire brushed and painted the rest of the frame on the Ferd FteenThousand including the underside, inside the rails, and into the crossmembers  Flushed the coolant again and tested my new radiator cap, this one actually opens!  I also discovered that the month old belt decided to jump one rib on one of the pulleys and throw this 1/4" ribbon into the fan clutch. I guess it wasn't the PO installing the previous belt wrong, it's probably some kind of immeasurably small pulley misalignment. I checked when I put this belt on and it seemed perfect. Oh well, it doesn't slip and seems to be fine with a crooked, slightly trimmed belt.  After a few hours letting the paint dry on the frame I chucked the bed back on and stepped back to admire how gorgeous this thing is  It's hard to see but I think I managed to get the side pipe location pretty much perfect  Oh and without bed bolts it has a fairly amazing shake at idle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n43-TBaLw80 MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Jun 12, 2016 |
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Jun 12, 2016 19:56
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gently caress you, I'm so envious right now. We didn't get the first-gen Insight here, but I would so love to have one. It's just such a neat little futuristic thing. E: Didn't the lean-burn mode catch a bit of criticism for increased NOx emissions?
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Jun 12, 2016 21:20
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Does the Insight drivetrain fit inside the Opel?
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Jun 12, 2016 22:38
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An Ecopel of sorts. (Opesight? Inopel?)
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Jun 13, 2016 00:35
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Funny you guys mention that, before I had even bought an Opel my plan was to make one into a true series-hybrid with a bunch of lead acid batteries, a NetGain WarP 9" electric motor, and a small diesel engine as a range extender. The project was inspired by this, Mother Earth News made a series hybrid Opel GT with a gasoline lawn mower engine as a generator way back in 1979: http://www.motherearthnews.com/green-transportation/electric-car-conversion-zmaz79jazraw.aspx. I decided against it for a variety of reasons and I'm glad I did, the Insight is way better than anything I could have built at 16.KozmoNaut posted:E: Didn't the lean-burn mode catch a bit of criticism for increased NOx emissions? I finally fixed my truck clutch woes, the reinforcement plate I installed a few months ago was just the start. Since that plate was keeping everything in the correct alignment for the first time in (presumably) years, the wear moved back to the clutch linkage and eventually I lost the ability to get it into first gear due to massive end-play. Here's what we're dealing with, a pin on the clutch pedal arm fits into the clutch master cylinder rod end with a small plastic bushing. When the bushing wears out and no one notices you get some horrific metal-metal wear. In my case it was so bad the linkage kept popping off, as a stopgap I drilled a small hole and added a cotter pin to keep everything together.  This is such a common problem there are a dozen people on Ebay selling the fix, a simple heim joint, a bolt, nut, and lock washer. Here's the one I bought for $25, the components could be had for less if purchased separately but it's nice to get everything in one order.  After pulling the clutch master into the engine bay this is what was left of the bushing I replaced. This has maybe three days of driving on it and it's toast. Once the end link gets worn out, replacing the bushing doesn't do anything to solve the problem.  I measured, this hole is about twice the size it should be. Since all of this at the master cylinder, a small amount of wear translates into a lot of lost clutch actuation and a ton of slop in the pedal.  After a lot of swearing, wrenching, and prying, I managed to get the clutch pedal arm off of the pedal assembly. These splines are cut in the factory when the arm is bolted in for the first time so they're a perfect, mega tight fit.  Ground the welds off of the back side of the pin and pressed it out the other side. Holy hell, there's not much left  Cut the endlink off of the master cylinder rod after measuring a few times to make sure the new heim joint doesn't change the length  Fast forward an hour of lying on your back with dash debris falling into your face while you use a 1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar to bolt the arm back in and you have this!  Oh my god, I have a solid two inches of clutch modulation now! The pedal box bushings are still completely shot and I'll have to source a new box from a junkyard eventually but still, I have a functional clutch! MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jun 13, 2016 |
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Jun 13, 2016 01:54
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Anyone want to buy my 2005 Ford Police Interceptor? Yes, and the truck, too (I'm the odd one out with an 06. I want an OBS badly), but I can't.
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Jun 13, 2016 02:28
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Nice Honda. You're building quite the fine collection now.
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Jun 13, 2016 02:52
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Nice insight. those things are p cheap out here too. Neat quirky little car. also you got the firewall support it seems. lucky jerk I also need to do that rod mod to my pos..... but the housing is so hosed I need to weld in/re-drill the bastard.
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Jun 13, 2016 02:56
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Nice insight, but aren't you getting a bit distracted? How much was the Insight if you don't mind? I was just looking at some here for fun and they start at like $8k for 200k km which seemed a bit ridiculous.
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Jun 13, 2016 11:00
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My dad has one he's selling and he's having a hard time getting $2500 for it. He just replaced the batteries for at least that much a couple years ago. High miles and a 5 speed, honda badge replaced with and autobots sticker.  Otherwise it's in good shape. Most of them I see are pretty cheap. Not the most comfortable cars getting in and out of and it doesn't ride the best, but you can't beat the mileage.
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Jun 13, 2016 12:59
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cursedshitbox posted:also you got the firewall support it seems. lucky jerk I've been fairly busy this last month, this past week I had some time off and got a few things done around the house. Finally attached the bed of the truck, I went with the overkill option of 5/8" grade 8 bolts torqued to the yield strength of the bed floor with blue loctite on the threads:  Used the now functional truck to go buy some wood:  and designed and built a bed frame (also some extreme overkill in the strength department):  Sold my last remaining motorcycle  But filled that void in my life with a shop vac and blasting cabinet:  and welded together my fancy new welding table:   mobby_6kl posted:Nice insight, but aren't you getting a bit distracted? Distracted? Distracted from what? Oh right, the thing this thread is supposed to be about  Cleaned up, wire brushed, and painted the engine cross member (also trimmed, deburred, blasted, and painted the motor mounts too)  Whipped out my Clecos and attached the belly pan properly for the first time. With the position dialed in and my face covered in high dollar respirator, I trimmed the edges flush with an angle grinder. Fiberglass dust is nothing to mess with.  Mocked up scraps of the old belly pan to make little wings to bridge the gap between fender and new belly pan:   Then, through the magic of welding, I made the gaps *disappear*    While I was at it, I made these holes disappear as well:  (Can't quite get the grinder in here to flatten the welds completely with the body cart in the way, that'll have to happen with the car on the ground)    Then it's on to the big one, the right rear fender. Here's the tracing I made with a dirty gloved finger and a page out of my air compressor manual, it's not the most high tech method but it gets the job done:  That same tracing, in steel this time, beat into the correct shape in about an hour (holy gently caress this car is curvy, it's like a goddamn ninth dimension hypertoroid)  Held into place temporarily with some welding magnets (I actually stuck it behind the original metal but I'm missing a photo of that)  which allowed for a quick dusting of spray paint to get more exact trim lines:  I pretty much only use hand filing to do the final fit of the patch, a small about of extra time getting the gaps correct here saves a ton of time later fixing a horribly warped panel post-welding:  With the first set of welds in place, planished, and ground back, the patch has mostly settled into final position. Using a hammer and dolly I slowly formed a small rolled lip to match the original fender curvature:  then added another strip, matching the width and taper of the fender edge to the other side of the car  another three passes of welding and grinding to fill pinholes, lots of careful flap disk sanding, and some tweaks with hammer and dolly and I'm left with this:  I have to box in the missing pieces of the inner fender and tie everything together on the back side still but at least it's no longer a gaping hole. It'll need some minor tweaks once I get into the bodywork phase but for now, I'm pretty happy. Apologies for the long post, I really should get these updates out more frequently.
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Jul 13, 2016 02:41
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Channeling your inner kevbarlas, nice.
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Jul 13, 2016 06:34
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 Jesus Murphy, where did you get that pre drilled plate?
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Jul 13, 2016 18:03
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It's a kit from these guys: https://weldtables.com/ I had a friend pick mine up at their shop in Minnesota and saved a ton, under $290 for the 2'x4' table with the legs and casters. If you weld it carefully and plan your heat you can make them pretty darn flat, mine is within 0.015" lengthwise.
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Jul 14, 2016 02:56
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MonkeyNutZ posted:I paid a whopping $3200 for mine, it has full maintenance records and the main battery pack was replaced by a dealership in 2013. It should easily be good for another 150,000 miles on top of the 120k I bought it with. Friend of mine at work has a quarter million miles on his with an original battery pack. One of my coworkers has a Prius that's still on the original battery. He doesn't know how many miles are on it, since the odometer stopped at 299,999 miles... a few years ago.  Most of his driving is highway.Another coworker had an Insight that he bought used at 85k, but it had a new battery put in by the dealer immediately before buying it. He totaled it around 160k and claims the battery had gotten pretty weak. Same coworker now drives a Prius as well, and had to replace the battery around 120k (it's at 180k now, battery still seems fine). The battery packs really do seem to be luck of the draw in terms of the originals holding up. Coworker who had the Insight/has a Prius now used the Insight for restaurant delivery, so it was 99% stop and go, which I would imagine puts a lot more wear on the battery than cruising. I wouldn't mind a 5 speed Insight, or a manual CR-Z. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jul 14, 2016 |
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Jul 14, 2016 03:52
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Man that is some nice bodywork dude.
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Jul 14, 2016 05:02
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I can't believe you did that bodywork in your LEDcave Jesus, man
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Jul 14, 2016 06:08
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some texas redneck posted:The battery packs really do seem to be luck of the draw in terms of the originals holding up. This is because generally when a pack dies it's not the whole pack that's dead, it's one or two weak cells that sabotage the rest of the pack. Hence why there were a few brief years (before a bunch of mechanics worked out how to do it) where you could buy 2gen Priuses with "bad" batteries for $fuckall, drop $150 on two new cells for the pack, and carry on. Unfortunately as I mentioned a bunch of people have worked out that you can do this with almost no knowhow as long as you have a step by step guide, so the market for cheap prii has been bought up.
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Jul 14, 2016 09:06
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MonkeyNutZ posted:It's a kit from these guys: https://weldtables.com/
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Jul 14, 2016 16:22
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Larrymer posted:My dad has one he's selling and he's having a hard time getting $2500 for it. He just replaced the batteries for at least that much a couple years ago. High miles and a 5 speed, honda badge replaced with and autobots sticker. Is it a stick? And what part of the country? Although, I'm sure its gone by now....
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Aug 1, 2016 15:54
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Thanks guys, I've been slowly getting better at metalwork and hopefully those skills will translate when it comes to actual bodywork and final smoothing. Cutting my fuel expenses by 2/3rds is pretty great, I only have to fuel the Insight every three weeks or so and it's hilariously cheap. This is just about as empty as the tank can get and it costs a whopping $20 to fill up. Even though less than 10% of my commute is highway I'm still pulling 60-65mpg   On the Opel side of things, I finished capping off the inner fender from that previous patch and simplified what used to be four panels lapped together (the reason it rusted out) with a single butt joint intersection. I can't get a wire brush or grinder into most of these spaces so prepare yourselves for some less than pretty welds until I pick up a die grinder and some carbide burrs.  I also made the old antenna hole disappear   As well as these mystery holes. They line up with similarly buggered quarter window latch holes on the inside, I think someone tried drilling them out and hosed up so bad it went through both the interior and exterior panels.   In preparation for the final body patch panel, I closed up these three holes that lead into the two rockers and the main frame channel. I went with an 18 gauge steel which is a tiny bit thicker than what was there before.  Welding a panel that curves 90° is no fun, it wants to pull in all sorts of weird directions as you add tack welds.  Doesn't look pretty but that's five separate patches to cap those holes and recreate the inner fender wing. I'm a huge fan of the Eastwood internal frame coating for areas like this (that green stuff all over), it wicks beautifully and the hose means I can get it behind inaccessible panels I've welded that would otherwise invisibly rust themselves into oblivion.  The lights attract a ton of insects but the massive number of spiders means that they're trapped within seconds of entering my shop. It's quite the horror show.  As a fun aside, it turns out the analog clock in the Opel's dash is actually electromechanical and only draws power every 5ish seconds. There's pair of contacts attached to the mechanism that slowly close as the clock unwinds, when they touch the circuit is completed and the solenoid trips, winding the clock and breaking the circuit at the same time. A tiny amount of ultralight oil and some trimming of an old swollen gasket and it's working just fine off a 12v power supply.  Hopefully I'll be able to show off my new gauge set next week (a month after I placed the order). I managed to solve the lack of a speedometer drive cable and woefully low revving tachometer while retaining the original gauge panel just by throwing money at the problem. It's amazing how that works sometimes. P.S. please buy my P71 so I don't have to deal with the rest of craigslist. I'll knock off like $700+ just to avoid talking to literal hillbillies about the "COP CHIP MOTOR" http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/5720755047.html MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Aug 7, 2016 |
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Aug 7, 2016 19:34
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Nice work!!
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Aug 7, 2016 19:48
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Was it just water that ruined the old clock gasket?
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Aug 7, 2016 22:55
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It's more that the gasket was vaporized by the car sitting in what amounted to a desert in California for most of the 80s and 90s. Seriously, the place was called "High Desert Auto Salvage" and it's just sand as far as the eye can see: The gasket had sort of curled up in agony from the heat and was pushing on that main red gear.
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Aug 8, 2016 22:51
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MonkeyNutZ posted:It's more that the gasket was vaporized by the car sitting in what amounted to a desert in California for most of the 80s and 90s. Seriously, the place was called "High Desert Auto Salvage" and it's just sand as far as the eye can see: I have a friend who worked at a place like this. The land was dirt cheap so their only cost was the scrap cars. I think it was like 46 acres or something, the closest town was 45 minutes down the road.
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Aug 9, 2016 06:05
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It's currently 106°F where that scrap yard is located, I can't fathom living in a place like that. I moved 500 miles south but the mountains keep the temps lower all summer than back home in Ohio. Bought another four of those amazing Costco lights because they were on sale and I have... Plans for them.  Crawled under the Insight to do an oil change. Not only did I discover it's despicably clean underneath (it's all aluminum, it should be clean) I also found out that I'm missing the main aero under tray. Apparently they're good for a serious MPG bump so I'll see if I can find a new one to throw under there.  The oil pan is not only structural to the bottom end of the engine, it's also magnesium.  To avoid ever stripping out the drain plug I bought this little guy, a Fumoto oil drain valve:  Install it once and that's it, you can even attach a piece of tubing and direct the oil straight into a jug.There's a little lever that's held closed by a spring, you have to force it up and rotate it (think bolt action rifle) to open the ball valve so it's fairly secure. Once I get a replacement aero panel it'll be completely protected.  Oh, I also finished the last patch panel on the Opel meaning the metalwork on the body is finally done*  *not including some fabrication on the interior to mount the gas pedal and a few other miscellaneous things       I have a box of stuff showing up tomorrow so I'll try and get a mid-week update out as well. MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Aug 14, 2016 |
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Aug 14, 2016 22:06
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The only thing I dislike about the fumoto is how slow it drains. I have one on all of my cars, though.
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Aug 14, 2016 22:36
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I wonder, are any Fumotos available in NPT? Might make a good replacement for the coolant bleed in the WJ. Edit: yep, at least one in 3/8 NPT. Emailed Fumoto to see if they support the valve dealing with cooling pressures and chemicals. Awesome work on the Opel. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Aug 15, 2016 |
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Aug 14, 2016 23:21
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Grats, I bet that feels good to have out of the way.
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Aug 15, 2016 00:06
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 11:33 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I wonder, are any Fumotos available in NPT? Might make a good replacement for the coolant bleed in the WJ. Is there a reason you don't want to use a radiator petcock? Do you need the ability to put a hose on it? That's what I've used on my SBC before, and as a bonus you don't have to worry about which end is pointed up when tightening against the taper.
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Aug 15, 2016 03:57
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