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You need to get that thing the gently caress out of the seller's hood like NOW, because who loving knows what he's doing to it right now, as people have already noted. Last time I went on a "buy a car/parts car in the hood" adventure like this, the guy swore up and down on CL that it was a complete running truck just the windshield was smashed and it was too rusty to fix, and should make the drive to my place fine. I show up, and... - all the doors are gone - 3 tires gone, remaining tire slashed AND bald - infinite pile of scrap metal, trash, garbage, and old equipment in the bed - windshield is not smashed, it is loving DESTROYED - no seats left - entire dash smashed and/or stripped - everything under the hood was stolen, smashed, or otherwise worthless, except poo poo that couldn't be carried off - intake and exhaust manifolds had been smashed with a hammer because ??????????? - intake was full of water which had frozen - it pretty much looked like someone had filmed Alien vs Predator both under the hood and in the passenger compartment Seller had absolutely no excuse or explanation. He just stood there and was like "well I dunno what you expected it's a parts car". I told the guy to get hosed with a pineapple full of AIDS, stop bullshitting people, and made my escape. I'd go as far as saying you should have it AAA'd to the nearest walmart parking lot or storage unit and deal with the rest once it's titled. As long as he doesn't know where it is and it's got some sort of license plates on it, it's better off. e: I'll see if I can find heads for this thing if chrisgt doesn't find em sooner. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 4, 2016 16:30
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iForge posted:The van has been unloaded and the shipper paid. I have permission to park it in a neighbors vacant driveway for a few days so tomorrow I'll fill the coolant and try to make it go. I'd try cranking it over by hand... who knows if the coolant from that "blown head gasket" is pooled in a cylinder. I mean, a whole Vortec will cost us $300 at the yard instead of $50 for a pair of heads, so it's not a big difference either way, but why blow up a possibly good bottom end?
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Jan 6, 2016 23:52
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Found your donor: 97 1500. L31 on the tag, everything looks right. I can get em for $100 for the pair hopefully this Saturday if you say the word.  There were a handful of other donors but they all looked worse than this one - open corroded throttle bodies, collision damage, etc.
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Jan 7, 2016 16:54
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Honestly my suggestion would be slam an LM7 in it whole with a set of aftermarket mounts and splice up a quick harness. But he's got this giant boner for a thumpr cam for some reason and keeps talking about maybe carbing an engine that already came with perfectly alright TBI, so I am staying the gently caress out of the way and not turning wrenches on this thing, I'll do parts acquisition but my input is definitely not needed on How To Do This. Note I say LM7 not LQ4/9 because I saw six I could get whole for 300 each today... E: that and I can't in good faith suggest a whole block change without helping do it, because it looks miserable on a van body. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jan 7, 2016 |
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Jan 7, 2016 18:10
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literally a fish posted:The more I think about it, the more putting an LM7 in makes sense. I am fine with that, it takes me about 2 to 3 hours to have a whole drivetrain out working at a lazy pace, since I rip the cab off and either tip it over with a high-lift or have the yard dogs forklift it off first thing. The only issues are getting one of my MJs on the road in time to bring it home and finding a way to get it to VA. Another minor feature, 2wd donors are semi rare up here so you'll probably get a tcase and two sawzalled driveshaft halves too. Van with a crawl box? Sure. Ghost ride that poo poo. Darchangel posted:Soooooo, how much would one of those shipped to Texas, with accessories, wiring harness, and ECU? For a friend, of course. I would never put one in one of the several non-running RX-7s I have. I'm down for it if you arrange shipping, but bear in mind you are going to have a serious conniption fit when you realize what we yanks consider a normal/acceptable level of rust on a drivetrain.
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Jan 8, 2016 13:18
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leica posted:Ummm, yeah. If I'm in Texas no way I'm gonna buy a drivetrain from the northeast. There must be plenty in Texas, I don't understand that logic. Mostly because a complete, with all accessories, all wiring, all manifolds, ECU, literally everything motor of V8/V10 flavor costs me $300 plus tax. Sure, donors exist down south, but they're much more ragged mileage wise because the trucks don't rot apart around them by the time they turn 150k. So a good donor has a substantial pricetag attached to it... I've seen $1500-2k. Are you willing to pay the premium for a rust free southern drivetrain? Go ahead and do it. Want the same thing 5-6 times cheaper, but it looks nasty and you have to fight with the exhaust manifold fasteners a bit? Go ahead and do it. I'm a cheap rear end in a top hat, so the choice is clear to me. 
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Jan 8, 2016 16:33
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literally a fish posted:Awesome. I don't want to give you the go-ahead until we've got the van to Adiabatic's where it can be properly inspected, but in all likelihood this is the road we'll go down. Yeah, I'm not buying any parts till I hear which route to go. I would leave the tcase... first of all you get a low range in a loving van, which is nice for being stuck in traffic and hitching up trailers and stuff, and second it's way way easier than trying to remove it because to do that you have to convert the trans to 2wd, which is not as simple as it sounds. Driveshaft shorten and rebalance (once it's in the vehicle and you know exactly how long it needs to be) is like $150-180, I'll cut the driveshafts on the donor so you have the right end yoke to match the ujoint that the trans or tcase slip yoke requires just in case it happens to be different from the one that the C20 stock driveshaft takes. There's a solid chance (I say this not knowing a thing about GM transmissions - if they're as lazy as they were on engine bellhousings, this might not be true) the driveshaft length would be changing going from a 350/700R4 to an LM7/4L60E anyways. Putting an impact on rusty manifold hardware is playing russian roulette. Either it'll come right out and you win because you just chase the threads with a tap and put new hardware in, or it'll snap the gently caress off and now you get to experience the wonder that is rusty manifold stud removal from an alloy cylinder head.
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Jan 8, 2016 23:32
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Righto chap, one LM7/4L60e/tcase (or not, depends on what donor looks nicest, you might get a 2wd one) coming right up, soon as I have my blue MJ running. This is gonna be fun, I haven't had an excuse to utterly pillage a GM fullsize product since a whole year ago now, when chrisgt, SiF, and I ruined a K3500 diesel to rip its NV4500 out   
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Jan 11, 2016 00:02
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I can probably find one for a few hundred bucks. Tell me what fits the 4wd swap kits for that era c-van. Either that or we can go 2wd. The output shaft drops in from the back right? As in you don't have to take everything out of the case, swap one bit, and put it all back in? On the transmissions I'm used to, that's what happens.
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Jan 11, 2016 02:58
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Interesting, why do they do that? Chain stretch? There is probably floor space (the tcase generally slopes downward from the trans on the driver side of this era of truck, and 4x4 swaps consist of swapping in the truck parts, welding hangars on the frame, and bolting on a truck axle) but yeah, it is worth checking. The yoke can freewheel all day if needed, it doesn't spin in 2hi anyways as noted. I'll hold off till floor space is verified and/or a good 2wd donor appears. E: yeah, I was afraid of the 4wd to 2wd shaft swap being that involved. loving auto trans designers... kastein fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Jan 11, 2016 |
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Jan 11, 2016 12:50
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rdb posted:It's a common problem known as pump rub. There is a little clip that eats a hole through the magnesium housing, they all fail, it's just a matter of when. poo poo, those are magnesium? I thought they were aluminum. Good to know! And yeah, I know a 4x4 swap requires a lift on most vans - Quigleys appear to be like 4-6" taller than factory usually. The motor hangs pretty low in a lot of vans.
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Jan 11, 2016 16:04
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iForge posted:So I was going to do shocks on the mj Saturday, maybe I'll go to RVA instead. That's a one-beer job. The fronts actually take longer than the rears. Rears: 2 nuts each, don't twist the studs off they're welded to stuff Fronts: 2 bolts and a stem each, they're all through hardware so buy a handful of 5/16 1.5" grade 8s and blast the old hardware out/cut the nuts on the stems in half with a dremel.
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Jan 12, 2016 20:45
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I don't recall seeing LM4s ever, but if I see one I might grab it. They don't care what the head is made from if you buy the whole motor. And since I am known as a non problem customer who buys a lot of poo poo, they give me a whole motor with all the goodies for the bare-longblock price. Hell, last time I saw a V10 there they offered it to me for the V8 longblock price ($300+tax), since they never get V10s and haven't got a set price for them, but that was before I realized the donor had "motor junk  " written on the drivers window. 
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Jan 13, 2016 00:28
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 there is a 6.0L V8 Vortec donor at Johnston RI. Currently mostly complete, some ancillaries are missing but can be grabbed from rockauto or other donors nearby. HALF PRICE OFF SALE IS THIS WEEKEND As in TOMORROW Who has a pickup or a tow vehicle of any sort and a utility trailer? No way I can have my shithouse MJ running insured and registered by tomorrow. I will do as much of the pulling as needed, just need someone with the aforementioned transportation who wants to spend tomorrow in a junkyard.
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Jan 15, 2016 21:09
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sharkytm posted:I'd offer help and hauling vehicle, but... I know, right? Just a few days different timing and we could have sent you down with the whole drivetrain in the bed and the van on the trailer. Oh well. I was thinking about this last night but didn't expect a 6.0 to show up like that.
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Jan 15, 2016 22:41
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Didn't manage to pull the LQ4/9 in Johnston due to weather and lack of a truck to haul it with. Checked Sams on the way to work this morning and they have a lot of LM7s that have now been pillaged a bit (and their intakes left open to the weather... gently caress I hate people) but no 6.0s. Hoping no one took the one at Johnston. Anyone down for a pull this week or next weekend?
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Jan 18, 2016 16:38
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That's probably around what an engine/trans/tcase w/ all the goodies will cost via me at my favorite yard if I manage to pull one. Within $100 anyways. I'd say part the interior/body/suspension out, keep everything needed for the swap, and scrap the rest. Might get the total cost under 200 that way. It's probably the best way to guarantee you have *everything* needed for the swap. Unless the coolant's leaking from somewhere awful because someone blew it up, that is. e: and as a bonus you get to hear it run instead of hoping it didn't have a rod knock before someone rearended it and it went to the junkyard.
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Jan 19, 2016 00:23
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We don't know that. The sellers ad is pretty unclear on what's wrong, it could be something as simple as a rotted out radiator, bad hose, or blown heater core. e: but yeah, I wouldn't want it hanging around my yard either. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 23:44
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Yeah basically aint nothin' happening till we find a way to haul a drivetrain around. I saw a 5.7/4L60e/np243 with all the goodies for sale for 700 like 30mi from sharky, but it's from a 97 and I wasn't sure it'd be worth grabbing, since that is about 300 too much and it's already pulled so we don't know what the donor had wrong with it.
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Jan 31, 2016 01:47
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It has stopped snowing but may do so again this week. Also you narrowly dodged a bullet, the GF and I went to look at a maroon woodside grand wagoneer* for 1200 bucks and it would have needed an LM7 immediately, but it was far too rotten to be anything but a parts donor or ten year resto project in a nice enclosed shop I don't have. * would have looked great next to her maroon woodside roadmaster I will have to do some vortec scouting next weekend.
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Feb 23, 2016 02:33
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NitroSpazzz posted:Supercharge it, conversion van with blower whine would be amazing. I offered a pair of Eaton M90s off late supercharged 3800s but he kept blathering about how he wanted it to run sometime this year or something, I dunno what his problem is 
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Feb 23, 2016 15:59
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sharkytm posted:I mostly see the 6.0 truck motor being called a "350"... loving truck guys. It's a 6 Litre, not a tree-fiddy. That's just loving retarded, especially since 6.0L is 366 cubic inches, not 350. That's not even close. Calling a 5.7 a 350 is retarded, but nowhere near as retarded as calling a 6.0 a 350. SPEAKING OF WHICH Who is up for some junkyard trolling? I might make a scouting run this weekend if I have a chance. Likely Worcester, Cumberland, and Johnston. Might hit Blackstone too.
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Feb 25, 2016 21:31
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The bling aisle of your local auto parts store has all the letters and numbers sharkytm posted:Saturday, early, I'm available. Sunday is a no-go, got a combined birthday party for like 4 family members in CT to go to. I think the gate opens at 8. If I aim for 6-7, I might make it there for 8... doesn't matter what order the yards are in as far as I'm concerned, you wanna start closer and end up further from home or vise versa?
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Feb 25, 2016 23:36
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I didn't even know what an MN12 was until I looked it up. I'm pretty sure we have none here either, but it's because they all rusted to pieces and blew away a decade ago, rather than them all being on the road still.
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Feb 26, 2016 02:41
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Allegedly sams is crushing some of their 6 month old turboraped hosed pillaged scrapheaps shortly and putting some fresh meat out in their place, so I will check the stock on like, wednesday morning. Trip report: got a late start. sams was a wasteland as noted. Johnston: second row of truck section 95-501-123 lm7 4x4 cable auto missing a few things and trans pan punched 95-501-53 5.3 (unknown RPO since glovebox was missing, but bet on lm7) 4x4 cable auto complete less a few vac lines Sixth row (row 60) 95-r11-238 lq4!!! 4x4 cable auto partially pillaged but fixable (tb, hoses, ecu, stat, coil wires, fpr?, egr, harness a bit hosed), pan punched A counter guy there I BS with about offroading and yota/jeep poo poo told me however that there are 3 6.0 donors at Cumberland, so I went there. Walked the yard... found em. Sadly they all look like this:  Some expeditions and F series trucks were similarly stripped, frames cut and bent down. This is probably the work of another junkyard pro who showed up at gate opening time on half-off day a few weeks ago (when it was bitterly cold and I valued my fingers and ears more than a 50% off price on an engine) and dropped a grand on known high value drivelines to flip on craigslist. Given that, I think the best option is (unless something nice shows up at sams this week) to either: Grab an LM7 from johnston, deal with only 5.3 liters of cheap vortec instead of 6 Pillage parts off the half dozen stripped LR4s and stripped or partially stripped LM7s, use them to reassemble the LQ4 and buy it. The poo poo that is missing is probably either things that are the same (vac hoses and crap), stuff that can be deleted with a tune (EGR), service parts, or the ECU, which I think an LM7 ECU can be retuned to fit an LQ4 anyways, and it will need tuning for the cam regardless.
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Feb 27, 2016 22:53
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Yeah there are pretty slim pickings when it comes to 2wd trucks here. It's like 5% of the ones I see in the yard, and most of them are 4.8L LR4 stripper model 1500s. At least there is a slim chance... if you are looking for 2wd jeep parts donors it is more like 99.9% 4wd. MJs are more like 25-50% 2wd, but that is all included in that tenth of a percent because there are no MJs
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Feb 28, 2016 15:44
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I think Chris and Dan are planning Saturday since all the pancake motors I told them about are at a saturday-only yard, but I'm down. Let's get this motor pulled and checked off so things can proceed a bit.
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Mar 1, 2016 19:55
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Stupid question. Would the trans behind an LR4 4.8 be the same 4L60e as the one behind an LM7? I really don't want to work on two junkyard cars for one project but that 2wd 1500 4.8 had a probably good trans and the 4wd trans on the LM7 donor was all torn apart.
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Mar 7, 2016 15:23
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Elmnt80 posted:They are the same block, just a different bore or stroke, so it should be the same trans behind them. I know very little about the GM transmission lineup... all I know is the 4L60e, 4L80e, and 6L80e existed and no idea what changed year-over-year / what came behind what motor in what truck/van. Would they really use the same transmission behind a 4.8 and 5.3 even given the different stock power levels? The LM7 engine donor is probably a '01 Tahoe with barn doors, the transmission donor is likely a 2wd LR4 powered 1500 but I don't remember what year. I was a dumbass and didn't check. Speaking of which, what are the year-over-year sensor and connector changes on those transmissions in the period that LM7s and LR4s were used? Will it just plug in and work, or did they switch input/output speed sensor reluctor wheel tooth counts at some point, like jeep did on some stuff? I'm used to working with way more info than I have on GM transmissions, since I figured we'd be grabbing the whole powertrain from a single vehicle, but no such vehicle has appeared yet.
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Mar 7, 2016 22:36
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Interesting - thanks a ton. I was just told by LaF (he's on IRC and doing research on this) that the LR4 was only introduced in 99, and this yard rarely gets GM donors newer than 04-05 or so since they go to the premium fullservice yard across the street, so basically it sounds like it'll probably work. I thought GM vehicles of this era used an ECU/TCU pair, not a PCM running both, though?
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Mar 7, 2016 23:09
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Yeah, LaF found the 97+ bolt-on bellhousing info as well. Fortunately the 4.8L LR4 introduction was in 99, which pins the 2wd transmission donor as a 99 or newer and therefore most of the concerns about swappability go away. The donor's a V8, so it should have the larger number of frictions and steels in the clutch packs. Driveshaft will probably have to be a custom job anyways at this point... I'll cut the donor's shaft a foot or two from the yoke so it can be used to retube/sleeve the other shaft if needed and if they match up right lengthwise. Allegedly per forum info he found, the 2wd and 4wd units have the same harness plug and everything, the 2wd ones just leave the pin positions for the high/low range solenoid and 4x4 solenoid for the transfer case unused, so the ECU may be sad about not having any tcase shift solenoids but all it'll do in response is lock them out (which doesn't affect anything if they aren't there.) So I'll see what I can do. Gotta get a truck running first, though.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:57
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3/4 ton ones were 8 lug, as well, right? IIRC this one was the usual 6x5.5.
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Mar 8, 2016 00:11
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some texas redneck posted:RoadKill has slammed together less in 72 hours and driven it across the country. They don't have day jobs getting in the way. as for the MJ and powertrain... working on it.
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Mar 19, 2016 13:18
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Sucks, but the harness is trashed too as I recall. I still wonder why that thing burned up on you.
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May 1, 2016 19:35
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Remember that a lot of salvage auction sites require a dealer license. My schedule is shot to hell. I might be able to get an engine still, but at this point it will probably be *another* replacement for my loving Forester, because I have the worst luck with EJ25s.
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May 7, 2016 13:17
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Pretty sure he re-rings just to gap them properly for boost (and it's cheap), he uses original bearings, rod bolts, and everything else shamelessly, even proudly. It'll be fine.
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May 8, 2016 15:33
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I'm reasonably certain the current plan is the engine will be brought down by Adiabatic or iForge after NEFR. If you guys can move it sooner that's fine with me too.
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Jun 18, 2016 00:26
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Engine, trans, and tcase have been delivered, a day early! I looked them over and here's a list of stuff, we've already discussed some of it. - you need a new set of flexplate to TQ bolts, they are allen head I guess and some stripped and had to be plasma'd out - you need a new flexplate, because he nicked it a little plasmaing the heads off. No real loss, not replacing a flexplate while it is apart is asking to be angry when it cracks 5k miles later - ac compressor is included but not installed. Bolts included as well. I think it was removed for engine mount access but not sure. - all other accessories included and still on engine - airbox and intake tract are included - it will need a new passenger header due to a goober trying to drill out a busted collector flange stud. I recall you want to put headers on it anyways. No loss. - need to grab a rear output slipyoke and weld yoke for the frankendriveshaft, they weren't included as he didn't want to cut the driveshaft up - may need a trans shifter cable, or find a way to adapt the van's. - entire harness looks pretty good. - I need to figure out how we are sealing the tcase front output if you aren't 4x4ing it or 2wd converting the trans. I was expecting the same front output yoke/flange setup everyone else uses and it looks like chevy did something else. It may or may not actually need sealing, not sure. I'll look in the morning. I don't know if it had VATS or if it was turned off before ripping the cab off and scrapping it so I don't want to try and fire it up and get you locked out of the ecu or something. I know absolutely nothing about tuning these. I'll check if the O2 sensors were included (are they in the manifolds or Ypipe? I didn't notice) in the morning and see what else I can tell you.
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Jun 19, 2016 02:30
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Raluek posted:Y pipe, like 4" from the flange where it bolts to the manifolds. Goddamnit LaF I think you need O2 sensors... and bungs since I am assuming the headers won't have them preinstalled 
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Jun 19, 2016 04:29
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literally a fish posted:As long as I can get an OBD2 plug wired up, I should be able to use Tremek's HPTuners software/device to disable any security features that it might still have, and tell it the new rear end ratio. Should be OK. https://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html mash the big red wiring diagrams button and have fun.
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Jun 21, 2016 17:05
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