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I mentioned on the chat thread that I was looking for a RWD sedan to lift and run rallyx with. Well, here it is, a 2006 Dodge Charger Police Package: Hard to make out with all the salt spots, but spot the rust big hand-sized patch on the rear fender above the bumper fascia Except for that bit, it's very solid. For any given car you might encounter, you would say the underbody looked not that great in terms of rust and corrosion, but for a car that's seen what it has in New England, I'd call it pretty good. I mean, look at that street. 2 years ago, it was freshly paved. This car was run by the NH State Police until it was retired at the ripe old mileage of 176k mi. In its glory days, it probably looked like this: http://i.imgur.com/60GhNdV.jpg Note how the front door molding is removed for the big shield -- that's a factory delete option. That's copper over forest green. The body shop did a super ratty once-over with forest green before sending it to auction. The small time dealer I bought it from had a lot of 4 Chargers that all got retired at the same time. 2 sold right away. 1 was selling for $2200 with significant engine problems (I heard him moving that one around, and it sounded like severe rod knock or worse). Listed at $4000, this one had been sitting for a while... About the thread title -- when I first got in the car to test drive, I was hit with an overwhelming scent of "airpane bathroom." After a while, I caught the clear and present smell of piss. It was a statie's car, so who knows what happened. The seller was looking to move the car, so he dropped the price to $3700 with a promise to get the car steam cleaned to remove the piss smell. I came back for it a week later. The detailer said most of the smell was coming from under the rear seat cushion. No big surprise. The piss smell was gone. Done deal. As I drove it home though, the faintest smell of urine poked up again. Or at least I thought. I need to do an independent smell test on someone. Maybe get tons of baking soda under the back seat. Blues Brothers check list: cop motor?  Nothing special about this HEMI (340hp when it came out). There's an integrated engine hour meter as part of the Police Package, and some heavier duty cooling and charging components. It doesn't have that classic P71/taxi mod motor sound, and I can't decide if that's a good or bad thing. It sounds good, just really muffled. cop tires? Not that I can tell. They're a truckish 225/60/R18, which is a size shared with some R/T models that year. cop shocks? Maybe. The Police Package supposedly has uprated shocks, but haven't found details. The Police Package is heavier than the normal V8 even without extra equipment in it, so that seems reasonable. Also came with uprated rotors and pads, though those pads apparently sucked and got replaced with something that didn't wear as fast. When I got the car, I realized that this is the 4th car model that Das Volk and I have had in common. 1. the very same 190E 2.3-16v 2. C6 Corvettes 3. GenV Vipers 4. LX Chargers. Though his Scat Pack has a good 145 more hp. I swear I didn't consult him before I got this one. Project goals: - eat burgers in the parking lot of a BK/McD's dressed as a plainclothes cop, pretending to be crooked like in The Departed - win New England Region SCCA RallyCross 2016 Stock RWD. If no one else ever shows up in Stock RWD, should be victory by attendance. Whatever, people loved it when I ran the P71. - lift the car, run bigger tires, wait for the apocalypse
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Jan 14, 2016 05:37
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Extra posted:So far you won't even have to attend the first event to win I bought it too close to this weekend's event. I'm def going to the Stafford Springs 2-day event to rack up points. Last time around, I was too cheap to get snow tires for the P71, so didn't get enough speed to be crowdpleasing in the snow. This time, I'm definitely getting a set for the Charger.
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Jan 14, 2016 06:26
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Elmnt80 posted:The cop chargers have different rotors, fyi. Slightly larger and thicker. Yeah, the inspection shop busted me on the brake pads, so I had the rotors and pads swapped off. The braking feels exactly the same with the new parts. I mean to measure the new rotors to make sure they're the right ones, even though the shop confirmed that they got the bigger ones. jamal posted:Not sure about taller springs, maybe there is an adjustable sleeve/perch type kit? Stock ride height is probably fine though. The AWD Chargers had 1" more ride height. I was thinking of trying to get that set of springs/shocks on the cheap. I know the ride height will be fine for rallycross; I just want a goofy raised sedan. There's a 3" lift kit out there with longer MacP spindles and spacers, but I'm not sure if I want to go there. Tomorrow: get pics of the interior and not very fun column shifter, engine, and tire clearance
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Jan 14, 2016 06:58
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Lovely flat front seats: Piss-affected rear seat:  The seat cushion moves as one unit:  Dunno if it's supposed to come up that easily. The pseudo-column shifter:  As you can see, it's not really concentric to the steering column. The angle it moves through is pretty big, with the D position landing in front of the key. This was one of the most widely complained about things for police -- it's pretty janky to operate because of the short arm and awkward sweep. The gear indicator gauge seems to only go off the shifter and isn't wired up to the trans, as it once showed R while I could still rev it freely in neutral. Had to reshift into R before the trans changed. The AutoStick button on the end of the handle and shift control rocker are such an afterthought ergonomically, but they really work to change the transmission programming. Out of the box, the 5 speed shifts well. It's smooth, responsive and times shifts reasonably. And it holds gears in AutoStick mode. I'm not sure what setting I'll use for rallyx. I'd like some engine braking, but I also don't want to be down in 1st the whole time spinning on dirt/snow. CERTIFIED  The unadorned 5.7:  The grease pen on that one coil obscured by the hose says 123K. Seller guessed it meant it was replaced at 123k. Closeup of the rust/corrosion levels:  Pretty gross, but honestly better than I would have expected for how it's lived. Rear tire clearance:  It's got about 1.5 inches to the front wheelwell. Front tire:  That bolt holding the spindle to the A-arm is the limiting factor. I can just barely stick one of my fingers through the gap. It measures about 17mm, which is way to close to the next taller snow tire size I could get, 235/65/R18. The whole tire dilemma is how to spend as little as possible toward the lift project. If I had plenty of clearance now, I could try to run skinnier and taller tires and be done with it. But since I'm so limited by the stock suspension, I think I want to avoid getting non-stock tire sizes just so I can sell them without having to explain anything, should I ever go whole hog and buy a different set of tires. I can get some stock sized Firestone Winterforce studdables for $400, or Yokohama Iceguard studless truck tires for $500. I'm willing to pay the extra $100 if it means better traction for rallyx. Is there anything special about a truck snow tire other than dimensions? Are studdable tires less grippy when run without studs? I don't plan on going studded, partly because I don't want to make roads around here worse, and partly because I hate driving on studded tires. e: just looking at that bolt in the front suspension is already discouraging me from DIYing any serious suspension changes. The rust on the body in the back looks much worse than it is in real life. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Jan 14, 2016 |
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Jan 14, 2016 17:21
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meatpimp posted:That's what spacers are for, especially if you're going to lift it. Yeah, I'm running a personal budget to justify buying the full kit: http://universalcarlifts.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_46&products_id=46 I called them up and grilled them about it. To the rep's credit, he definitely knew the product without having to look anything up. He admitted that the reman spindles they started with usually had bad ball joints that needed to be replaced. My main concern would be strength/appropriateness for rallyx. I think this is the kit running on normal wheels:  Big question is how much you can upsize the tires from there. As Powershift pointed out, the wheelwells become the limiting factor.
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Jan 14, 2016 17:54
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jamal posted:How much less offset would you need to clear that ball joint? If you went to a lower offset and narrow tire it might all fit, although getting your alignment to ideal would probably negate all that. My guess is more than an inch. I'd have to get new wheels, yeah? I absolutely acknowledge that the car will handle worse in anything but the softest stuff, and probably won't handle great there without lots of experimentation with shocks and springs.
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Jan 14, 2016 20:21
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Extra posted:All this lift talk is neat and the car will look great but if you're seriously focused on winning the stock RWD season at Rallycross this year then I think you might be wise to get a skid plate sooner rather than later. Your lift modifications as I'm sure you know will kick you out of the stock RWD class. People aren't super sticklers about the classing but cutting your fenders or lifting the car would probably be a bit too noticeable. Yup -- my plan was to run enough of the season to clinch Stock RWD and then run in Modified 2 for the remainder. I'm not bragging about being good -- in half the events, there was not another Stock RWD entrant. I haven't found any of the tracks around here that bad for rocks, except for the dog racing parking lot. I know I took some big hits in the P71, but nothing fatal. I know a real rally car isn't really lifted; Team O'Neil showed Jalopnik this chart for how to tune your suspension based on anticipated terrain:  Which is both really neat and shows that I don't have a clue how to change the car to actually make it go faster. The AWD Charger springs would work for the back, but the front suspension is all different. I haven't found a lot of info about how much lift if any I can get out of coilovers for the LX platform. So now I'm thinking maybe just 1" rubber spacers in the interim and think long and hard about what to do for lifting.
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Jan 14, 2016 23:49
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jamal posted:Do you know if the front spring perches sit on a snap ring groove? No idea -- do these say anything one way or the other?: http://bcracingcoilovers.com/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilover-kit-for-06-09-dodge-charger-srt-8 Is it possible to measure a spring/strut in the car to figure out its application height? I haven't been able to find the spring rates or anything about the stock suspension.
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Jan 15, 2016 04:42
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I would get even KW Variant 1s if I knew they could raise the car. I'll do some searching tomorrow to see if someone's done a swap with pictures.
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Jan 15, 2016 06:33
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jamal posted:That's an inch of droop you have lost, and you are probably not getting the full amount of bump anymore, so overall the car has less travel. Which is worse for everything. Ooh, didn't think of that, that a spacer is simply forcing the suspension further down its articulation, with no compensation for effective compression range. I got the Takata recall done today, which makes me feel like I can proceed with putting more money into the car. Ordered the studless snow tires and will get them installed next week. charliemonster42 posted:Good grief, the interior on that thing is absolutely horrific. I'd heard horror stories about Chrysler interiors, but that is just awful. Speaking of large, I've got a lot of space between me and the door. The seat has 8-way power adjustment but no side support. I'll look into making a foam pad a la Angel Pads so I can brace myself better. Not that you pull a lot of Gs in rallyx, but it's easier to drive when you're centered to the wheel. You definitely get bucked around more than on track. I keep finding scent trees tucked into different areas of the car. I actually like the smell of Black Ice (Blue Ice?), but I have to get rid of all the existing ones first. Air Sponges are on their way.
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Jan 15, 2016 18:10
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Blech, these fat wings on the same year RT's seats: They did the same thing on the SRT4 seats, where the flat back was really narrow. I don't have broad shoulders, but I was always having to shrug just to sink back into the seat. The power seat that comes with the interceptor package has pretty adjustment range. I've got it fully lowered with the back very vertical. When the seat is fully raised, it does feel like you're driving a truck or van.
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Jan 15, 2016 18:26
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Anyone know of a consensus best LX forum? I'm looking at the suspension subforum of LXForums, and the 5th newest post is from half a year ago.
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Jan 15, 2016 19:37
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Skid plate ordered, Stafford Springs 2/20-21 back to back event registered. I hope the plate comes in time. The only other things I might work on between now and then are replacing the weakening battery and maybe fixing the squeaking tensioner. I can't find my old posts about running the P71. I really want to compare the dynamics of the two cars. Wouldn't be fair, though, with the P71 on balding all-seasons because I was so cheap with it.
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Jan 15, 2016 21:10
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jamal posted:You going to get tires too or leave those on? quote:And if you do end up wanting to get some struts or bushings or something let me know.
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Jan 15, 2016 22:31
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jamal posted:A tire shop and a performance alignment are two different things. Maybe ask for a free check to see where it is currently, and then you might need to add some things to actually get good alignment numbers. -1.5 to -2 degrees of front camber and then a bit less rear camber would be a good starting point, but it doesn't seem like there is much factory adjustment. Yeah, I'll specifically ask if they can go off the spec to whatever I ask for / whatever the car can provide.
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Jan 15, 2016 23:04
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Had to move a lot of bike parts out of a room at work that they're gonna turn into an office. It was so refreshing to be able to throw a ton of stuff into the trunk and rear seats. The vette could have held this much, but it would have been more of a packing chore. The power steering is becoming really variable effort, with times where I seem to lose assistance. I don't hear any belt squeal during normal turns, but the pump or belt is really chattery at full lock. Fluid level looks fine in the reservoir. Another look at how rough the sprayjob looks:  No dust, no salt, just peely. Closeup of the fender rust:  Some pretty bad surface rust under the driver side rear door:  Not pictured -- standing water and bubbling at the bottom of the trunk under the lining. I'm gonna pull up the plastic lining and unclog if I can, otherwise wipe it down, decide if I want to treat the rust, and throw in a DampRid bucket.
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Jan 18, 2016 02:01
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Found the factory alignment specs: http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/alignment-suspension-specs-2006-10-dodge-charger-police-package/ very mild negative camber front and rear, and mysteriously, slight toe out front and rear. With no available factory camber adjustment, I'm just gonna have them check the alignment to see where it is, and decide from there.
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Jan 19, 2016 05:44
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Ran some errands tonight with the Charger. Between the torque and the decent automatic, the car responds quickly to gas pedal inputs, which is really nice. The steering isn't very quick, but inputs definitely adjust the car. No handling surprises. the IRS also helps. There's no trucklike shimmying like in the P71. When I test drove the Camaro ZL1, I got nothing but the impression that it built speed by pounding the pavement into submission with its massive tires. I think the same applies here. The tires and suspension just eat up potholes and manhole covers. You notice them, but they barely disrupt forward motion. Getting the snow tires mounted Saturday in the middle of the big snow. Will be fun to compare performance before and after. e: also found the service manual: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/24486-New-Service-Manual-Download-Link Not sure if the skid plate will use the factory belly pan bolt points. Hopefully putting the front on ramps will be enough clearance to work on it. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Jan 20, 2016 |
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Jan 20, 2016 06:31
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kimbo305 posted:Getting the snow tires mounted Saturday in the middle of the big snow. Will be fun to compare performance before and after. Well, storm is downgraded to something like 6" tops, probably after I get the tires changed over. I've got a lot of salt dust on the steelies. Should I wash them to make sure no salt gets trapped on the inside of the rim? Does that even matter? I've decided to run rallyx with AutoStick mode on, which lets you let the target highest gear. So if I move it to 3, I think it tries to maintain revs without shifting past 3rd. And might try this, depending on how loose the surface is: http://www.edmunds.com/dodge/charger/2007/long-term-road-test/2007-dodge-charger-srt8-one-touch-burnout-access.html
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Jan 22, 2016 21:18
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meatpimp posted:Calling it now -- you're going to start to love the beater-ness of the Charger and the Ferrari is going to be used less and less. The beauty of a beater is that your comfort is the only thing that matters. The road and weather can be completely destroying the car, but as long as I'm warm and toasty, it's all good. Got the tires swapped on. There's maybe 1/2" accumulation around here. Enough to goose the rear tires on tight turns, but otherwise very easy to drive (would have been fine on normal tires, too). Braking performance is great. The ESP is really just an on/off switch, which is refreshing. Couldn't tell a difference with the non-hooning I was doing. The shop only pulled up the generic RWD Charger alignment specs, so I was more out of bounds there than with the police package specs. And since they wouldn't do a custom alignment. I misthought the specs -- positive toe is toe-in, not toe-out, which is as crazy as I thought. Going by the size, these tires might be a tiny bit taller, but really the same. 
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Jan 23, 2016 23:33
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8ender posted:Don't underestimate the emotional pain of losing a beater that went above and beyond and lasted years more than you thought it would though. Nothing feels worse than giving a car years of hard thrashing only to discover that it loves the pain and it's your favourite and now it's dying of rust and your abuse. As long as I can pull this off in rallyx before the car crumbles: http://i.imgur.com/Jc9lIfv.gifv
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Jan 25, 2016 02:33
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Am trying out that jump battery -> inverter -> battery tender chain on the Charger right now. I forgot that I'd ordered a new inverter good for 150W off of a cigarette lighter supply. 3 hours in, everything is still cool in the trunk, which has dried out some and showing lots of surface rust and corrosion:   Saw a spot under the engine bay; been pretty dry, so either from the Charger or a previous parker:  There's two overlapping plastic belly pans. The leak seems to be coming off of the one leading from the front fascia:  Those tiny bolts are probably toast if they come off. You can see how nice the ground clearance is, at least. Got the skidplate and mounting bolts. Dead simple:  According to the most horrifically spelled install guide I've seen: http://www.pro-gard.com/wp-content/uploads/Charger-Hemi-Skid-Plate-Installation-Instructions-SK56HC06.pdf I'm supposed to discard both plastic belly pans. I'd rather keep the front one if I can -- keep dirt from entering the front. e: oh yeah, I found this pile of scent things under the right front seat:  Took em out and moved the Air Sponge there. The official story is now that a trooper pissed himself. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Feb 2, 2016 |
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Feb 2, 2016 23:00
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the spyder posted:Are you planning on removing the rust and sealing it or just treating it? I've been using Fluid Film to treat my Florida flood damage car (salt water) and been rather impressed. So far I've hit all the fasteners and clamps/brackets. For the fender rust, I was seriously contemplating cleaning the rust away and then going over it. For the trunk and any other spots, there doesn't seem to be rot yet, so probably just treat. I've been letting the battery tender run for several hours at a stretch, and the battery still isn't topped off. Either it was pretty low, the tender never indicates a full charge, or using a portable jump battery radically reduces the charge rate.
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Feb 5, 2016 02:00
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kastein posted:I'd put a sixer of your favorite beer on those rust spots turning into holes the second you wire wheel them, unfortunately. Not small holes either, I'd say at least 3-4 inch wide areas of either no metal or swiss cheese. Hmmm, I'd rather have it look like it is instead of forking money over to get it patched and then quarter-assing some paint back on it.
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Feb 5, 2016 02:50
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When it's flaking hard and bubbling, is there any point in treating the remains with rust converter? Does that help stop the spread at the edges? This is assuming I can get behind it to the unpainted side.
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Feb 5, 2016 20:00
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That car's body on frame, right?????
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Feb 5, 2016 20:12
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Just went to push the snow from the storm off the car. I noticed the headlights were a little cloudy, debated very briefly if I should get a polish kit, and then went nahhh, not worth the cash. We're supposed to get another decent snowfall Mon/Tues. I won't be able to work on the skidplate in this slush. I need to get the garage door opener from the shop who has the 348 now and do it indoors if I want to have it on for the 2/22 event.
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Feb 5, 2016 21:11
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I'll need a friend also dressed as a plainclothes cop, so sweater over collared shirt and khakis with baseball cap.
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Feb 5, 2016 21:49
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For those of you really keen on bodywork, Mopar Max magazine had a restore of this very model, including bodywork on the rear quarters, though not the exact rust damage on mine: http://www.moparmax.com/tech/2015/x_2-pasture-1.html Kinda cool to see the auto tech students putting their trade skills to the test. I drove the Charger over to the dealer and got the door opener, and the car is now wedged into my parking spot. Not well heated but should be fine for doing the skidplate work once I get the ramps under the front wheels. If this guy can pass inspection, then so can I, not that I'd push it:  The dark parts in front of the rear wheel is just gone til the frame rail.
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Feb 5, 2016 23:26
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I used the Sylvania kit a while back. 20 bucks and a couple hours' worth of effort and the difference was pretty stark. If you do pick up a kit, I would strongly suggest taking the whole light assemblies out if possible. I'm coming around on this. Drove my friend at night and the light output was really awful. I didn't expect a lot, but the light seemed weak compared to most cars on the road. When I got back, put the mobile battery tender setup back on. Get back to my computer and sit for 10 min. REEEEEEEEEE. The whole building's fire alarm goes off. I bolt down to the basement expecting to see the Charger's trunk on fire. Nope, it's fine. In fact, the tender showed that the charge was full. Turned out to be someone's fireplace. So I know the tender still works from a voltage monitoring standpoint. I haven't seen any major heat issues with any of the components. I think I'm ready to try it out on the midengine Italian car next. It was still taking several turns to fire up. I wonder if it's a fuel pump issue and not a battery issue?
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Feb 7, 2016 04:52
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Extra posted:Did you load test the old battery or did you end up buying a new battery? I'm running the old battery and haven't swung by Autozone to test it yet. Might do that today.
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Feb 7, 2016 20:51
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Battery tested out fine. Twice, the car has had trouble firing once I key it on. The starter seems to crank easily, but it's just not sparking or something. Eventually, it catches. Two other times, it seems like the starter solenoid clicked furiously before catching, with the motor firing up right away. Just haven't nailed down the symptoms. Also, I just realized that I filled up 3/4 of the tank with premium, just cuz I'm so used to it. 
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Feb 8, 2016 05:54
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https://teamoneil.com/product/open-practice-day/ $20 / hour for practice runs on their really basic slalom and skid pad course. I would go, but I have rallyx the next day.
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Feb 8, 2016 22:50
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Coincidentally, Edmunds is having start issues on their SRT-8 now: http://www.edmunds.com/dodge/charger/2007/long-term-road-test/2007-dodge-charger-srt8-hard-start.html I don't have the slow cranks, just the fast ones with no sparking after :03.
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Feb 9, 2016 23:19
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Put the skidplate on today. Also tried to migrate from Picasaweb to Google Photos, which leads to pain in the rear end photo links. Got the Charger on my ramps:  There wasn't a great spot for the jackstands. Clearance is fine, but still not comfortable. As my friend had the longer arms, he did the unbolting and bolting, and I assisted:  We Kroiled the bolts as a precaution, but they looked really clean. Didn't present any problems coming out. The top side of the old plastic belly pan:  Salt is real, even up here. The wings on the side, as you can make out in the previous pic, help cover the steering rack boots. Super specific instructions molded on the bottom of the pan:  ~3 ft-lbs of torque. We decided to go a bit higher for the extra weight of the metal plate. Balanced the skid plate on a jack and slid it roughly into place:  Note the new bolts and washer that came with the kit. Brass bolts. We decided to put them on dry. The mounting slots are disconcertingly wide, despite the size of the washers. Like how hosed up are you expecting these cars to get and still decide it's worth puttng a plate on? Fiddling in the front bolts:  The front bolts screw into a clip that very easily detaches from its mounting lip, so it took a while to nudge one of them back into place. The hardware doesn't really feel up to holding the plate, but it's only 20lbs or so, 5lbs per corner. The rear threads are in the crossmember, which you can see here with no plate on: http://i.imgur.com/qckJMxs.jpg After a few passes to make things "pretty hand tight," making sure to cycle in the exact order prescribed on the belly pan instrutions, we got it on:  The forward circle is so you can replace the oil filter; the rear slot is for draining the oil pan. Clearly, the application is guarding against very large monolithic obstacles like curbs and human bodies, not rocks that could fly into the oil filter whole or deflect off the beveled sides at the steering rack or control arms. There's a full-length Charger skid plate in aluminum that offers much better protection: http://setina.com/skid-plates/, but it looks like it's for the 2011+ chassis. Not all that different, but maybe different enough. I'm thinking about getting some thinner sheet metal to bolt over the drain and oil filter holes. The first few rallyxs are on snow, so I'm not as worried about that right now. Really, all I needed to make my own skid plate was measurements. If I were handier and had more tools, I would definitely fabricate a wider one, going out to the skids on the crossmember at the back and I'm not sure what at the front, but certainly aiming to shield more of the suspension without getting in the way. We thought about putting the plastic belly pan under the skid plate for extra insurance, but decided that the ribbing on top of the pan wouldn't sit flush enough. While he was down there, my friend snapped some pics of the condition of the suspension and body. Things looked pretty good, except for the rust on these lines, which look awful:  
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Feb 14, 2016 05:59
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The rust on those brake lines? really bothers me. I just don't know how much labor is involved in replacing them, how they route to the 4 corners, etc. What I could see from the wheelwells when I checked out the car initially was not this bad. And what about the pair of lines running front-rear just above the boot in the last pic? Look like brake lines, too? I'll make some cardboard templates when I get a chance. They canceled the 2/20-21 event because of the weather. It's been so unseasonably warm (and will be this week) that the ground will be soft as poo poo and get torn up by the more advanced classes that can really dig their tires in. Sucks to get canceled this close, but I was able to cancel my motel res.
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Feb 16, 2016 22:20
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kastein posted:I'm not surprised about Stafford, though I am somewhat disappointed, I was considering heading down for it since I am only about 20min from there and had fun spectating at the 2013 event where a handful of cars hydrolocked. It's been a real mild winter this year, aside from getting our asses frozen off last weekend. Do you know that guy Ty who runs his XJ?
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Feb 16, 2016 23:54
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What's the typical failure mode for rusted brake lines? Poorer braking? Fluid reservoir getting dirty and low quickly?kastein posted:I don't think so, what does he generally use as a forum name? Pic of said XJ? I dunno if this is the one he ran a few years ago, or if he got another less beat one: https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/457506_10100442954302879_1234007406_o.jpg
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Feb 17, 2016 03:32
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Argh -- I went downstairs to measure the holes for patches that kastein offered to cut, and the car wasn't there. Forgot that I street parked it to vacate the spot for the 348. It hasn't been dry enough to drive it back from the shop, so I'll try to pull the Charger back in and measure in peace.
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Feb 17, 2016 04:20
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 21:40 |
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I think rusty brake lines is something that I'd gladly have a shop tackle. I would feel sorta bad if they worked on book hours for stuff that was really hard to extract and put back in. I remember when I was in that Factory 5 project thinking that even attaching brand new prebent lines looked like a big hassle, though part of that might have been the lovely tools that F5 packed with the kit.
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Feb 18, 2016 03:27
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