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I'd put a sixer of your favorite beer on those rust spots turning into holes the second you wire wheel them, unfortunately. Not small holes either, I'd say at least 3-4 inch wide areas of either no metal or swiss cheese.
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Feb 5, 2016 02:21
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kimbo305 posted:Hmmm, I'd rather have it look like it is instead of forking money over to get it patched and then quarter-assing some paint back on it. Yeah, that will also fail your mass state safety inspection (once it becomes a hole), so I'd leave it the gently caress alone till you have some time to deal with it. You'd want to weld in new metal and then do what SSS said.
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Feb 5, 2016 19:56
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I'm a fan of mall parking garages. When I was still living in Worcester, a friend and I usually used the back corner of the Greendale Mall's parking structure, because there was even an electrical outlet that would run an angle grinder!
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Feb 5, 2016 21:54
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Give the poor mans prime a shot and see if it starts more easily that way. Need a large sample size to get a solid conclusion since it is random failure, but this could easily be a slightly leaky check valve in a returnless fuel system.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:40
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Skidplate looks great, maybe use some 16ga sheet from home depot to make access panels that cover the large holes? If you want something thicker, like 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4, post up dimensions and I'll see what I can find in my stockpile of drops and scraps, I work in metro north so I can give you stuff anytime if you're in the area. We have a plasma cutter too so if you bring a template I can probably cut the thing out for you in a couple minutes. The big lines near the... power steering rack? look pretty fine, that appears to be mostly surface rust. The cluster of 3 really rusty lines near what appears to be an AC compressor line in the second to last pic, though, I'd take a closer look at those, they look like close-to-pinholed brake lines. I really wish more manufacturers would start using cunifer for their brake lines, I'd gladly pay an extra $50 for cunifer lines and stainless flare nuts. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 22:06
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That's also definitely a brake line, since it appears to go out into the wheel well and then loop up over the mounting tab for the frame end of the brake hose. I agree it also looks concerning. With this being such a new car (ha, at least compared to my crapcan fleet) you can almost certainly buy brand new replacement lines prebent at the dealer and simply unscrew the old ones and bolt the new ones on. Or even maybe claim warranty, though I doubt it's still covered... The most annoying part is that cars are generally assembled in this order: 1. spotweld entire chassis together, e-galv dip, prime, paint 2. install heater core 3. install brake lines 4. install wiring harness 5. install rest of car ... so the brake lines can be a real pain in the dick to replace with prebent factory units after all the drivetrain stuff is in, unless you get lucky and there are unions in places or it's just easy to slide the new one in place. I'd have to look at it in person to really know for sure, I did the front to rear hardline on a coworker's 04 WJ grand cherokee and ended up having to mildly deform the new line, disconnect a bunch of emissions hoses, drop the front driveshaft, snake it up into the engine compartment through the ratsnest of wiring and hoses it was under, unbolt one end of the transmission crossmember to slip the line over it, then put it all back together. Still only took about 2 hours and that was the most annoying one on the whole vehicle, though. I'm not surprised about Stafford, though I am somewhat disappointed, I was considering heading down for it since I am only about 20min from there and had fun spectating at the 2013 event where a handful of cars hydrolocked. It's been a real mild winter this year, aside from getting our asses frozen off last weekend.
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Feb 16, 2016 22:24
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It really only takes a half day or so to run them all by hand even if you're fairly OCD about bending them the same way the factory did. I've done it before on some of my cars. I'm lazy though so if prebent ones are available and cheap (for reference, the master cylinder to front right wheel one for my XJ cost me a whopping 17 dollars prebent and in a monstrous cardboard box, and the one for the WJ I mentioned was like, 25 bucks, from the dealer!) and not ridiculously impossible to install without stripping the vehicle bare, I'll use them. I bet the lines are like 20 bucks a pop from Dodge, and probably still available.
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Feb 16, 2016 23:36
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kimbo305 posted:Do you know that guy Ty who runs his XJ? I don't think so, what does he generally use as a forum name? Pic of said XJ?
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Feb 17, 2016 00:02
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Probably a year split or model wheelbase difference they weren't aware of, so their application info was overly broad. Kimbo - well sometimes the brakes get mushy anywhere from a few minutes to a few weeks beforehand, but not always. Usually the pedal just drops halfway to the floor unexpectedly when you hit the brakes kinda hard and then you don't stop very well. On cars I don't trust, I slam the brake pedal as hard as I can while still parked to test the lines before driving, though this may of course blow the lines a bit prematurely and leave you stranded, it's better than stranded with broken brake lines at an unexpected time - and exchanging insurance info with whoever you hit.
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Feb 17, 2016 13:27
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I actually mentioned it around 4 last night, but didn't suggest it really. If the factory lines are designed in such a way that dropping new ones in isn't too painful, I'd go that route just because it's easier than bending up new lines yourself and by the time they rot out again it'll be 2026 and this thing will probably be in a junkyard. But if it's a pain in the dick to snake new OEM lines in... cunifer all the way. That stuff is a dream to work with, I used it on my forester and will be using it on every vehicle I make brake lines for in the future. e: if you need to do double flares on 3/16 / 4.75mm line, OEM tool 24364 is what you want. Bubble flares or other tubing sizes, you need something else.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:53
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 05:31 |
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I went through my stockpile of scraps and the thinnest plate I have in the right sizes is... either 1/4" or 3/8" steel. Probably WAY thicker than we should use. Given that, what thickness and material would you prefer, if you don't have material on hand or on order? I can keep an eye on the local steel shops drop racks. Most evenings work for me, I just have no material to work with yet, unfortunately.
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Mar 7, 2016 22:31
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