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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Bilstein makes HD shocks for that. Not sure about taller springs, maybe there is an adjustable sleeve/perch type kit? Stock ride height is probably fine though.

And I would probably get at least a new rear seat from a junkyard or something.

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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
How much less offset would you need to clear that ball joint? If you went to a lower offset and narrow tire it might all fit, although getting your alignment to ideal would probably negate all that.

Those are already huge tires so I would probably just stick with that size. For tsd/road rallies going taller is just going to make the car handle worse and probably not give you much benefit.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Different wheels or a big spacer, I don't think that would work well though.

Even on soft snow and slippery stuff making the car taller will probably worsen the handling. So why do that on a car that is going to be driven somewhat fast on windy roads? Good tires, good alignment, maybe new shocks, skid plate?

I'm kind of curious about the tire thing. Guy at Firestone claimed a ws-80 would have more grip than a studded winterforce, and some of the tirerack ice rink tests seem to indicate the samw.

jamal fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jan 14, 2016

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
There is probably something in the eibach catalog that would work for the front, possibly in conjunction with a cheap threaded sleeve kit. Do you know if the front spring perches sit on a snap ring groove? The bilsteins do but it is unclear if they come with a perch or you use the stock one.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
That is a complete threaded coilover replacement that also happens to be garbage.

The stock struts will either have a perch welded on, or a snap ring groove and a perch that just slides on. It is probably welded, but if not that might make it slightly easier to raise the car.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
KW gives the max height adjustment as a hub center to fender distance of 400mm/15.7" front and 410mm/16.1" rear. If that is taller than what you have now, there's your answer. I believe the shock housings might be made slightly shorter, so it is likely that max number is lower than where you are now.

It's relatively easy to make the car taller or lower with springs or spacers but there is actually only a narrow range where things will actually work due to the shock. So say for example you put in spacers and lift the car an inch but are on stock struts. That's an inch of droop you have lost, and you are probably not getting the full amount of bump anymore, so overall the car has less travel. Which is worse for everything.

jamal fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Jan 15, 2016

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Actually, if you just put a spacer between the top hat and body that would work as long as it isn't huge. And then just use the awd rear springs. You might need to have that made though.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
You going to get tires too or leave those on? A bit of extra negative camber all around usually helps, especially when you have tall sidewalls and soft suspension. I would guess the max negative setting on the front will not be excessive, and I think there is an offset bushing set from whiteline to adjust further. And if you do end up wanting to get some struts or bushings or something let me know.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The bilsteins that have been mentioned fit the same as an oem replacement. All you get is the strut and then you re-use the stock springs and top hats. The front is a coil over strut setup, where the spring is held onto the strut between the lower perch and the bolted on top. So you would have to compress the spring, undo the top nut, transfer it over to the new strut, and then the complete deal bolts into the car between the lower control arm and strut tower. The rear just has a shock and then the spring sits between the control arm and chassis, so you undo like two bolts and the shock comes out.


A tire shop and a performance alignment are two different things. Maybe ask for a free check to see where it is currently, and then you might need to add some things to actually get good alignment numbers. -1.5 to -2 degrees of front camber and then a bit less rear camber would be a good starting point, but it doesn't seem like there is much factory adjustment. SPC makes a complete upper control arm that is adjustable as well as some bolts that you can put in different positions to change camber and caster slightly.

jamal fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jan 15, 2016

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The main reason I'm down in az is to replace all the hard lines on my uncle's yukon that came here from ontario. Unclear on what has to happen to get them all in/out, I have read on some forums that maybe the body needs to come off the frame and the fuel tank dropped, which if that is true I will recommend they get a new car to keep down here. Have a line kit from classic tube and am going to try to get it on a lift at my friend's shop this week to check out.

gently caress this is going to suck. Everything is rust under there and there's a small coolant leak coming from the rear heater assembly area.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
There was even an nhtsa investigation on them because failed lines is common on that era of truck. But no, it was determined that the hard lines are a wear item that need to be inspected and it is the owners' fault for not keeping the bottom of the car clean in rust prone areas.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Well if there's a hole in the brake line your can't build any pressure, and the fluid all leaks out. Thankfully with a dual diagonal system you can still stop a few times.

I've told the story before but this truck has had a line fail and be patched by the dealer twice, and never properly bled because they were afraid to touch the rusted bled screws, and told my uncle he needed all new calipers, a booster, and an MC, while offering to do nothing about the lines "because that would be a lot of work and expensive." I replaced the screws and bled the brakes and they work fine.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The kit I got is from classic tube, they are pre bent stainless. From what I can tell they fit fairly well. Don't remember if we ordered the flex lines to the calipers too.

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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Thanks brake line chat.

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