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kimbo305 posted:Just went to push the snow from the storm off the car. I noticed the headlights were a little cloudy, debated very briefly if I should get a polish kit, and then went nahhh, not worth the cash. Use a bank drivethrough... at night... in Roxbury.
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Feb 5, 2016 21:42
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All this brakeline chat, and no mention of Cunifer lines? It's a copper/nickel/iron alloy that's: 1. Corrosion-proof. 2.Easy to bend. 3. Easy to flare. 4. Relatively inexpensive. 5. Available at NAPA. 6. Did I mention easy to bend/flare? I had to replace the line to the rear axle on my old 2500HD (see image above), and ran Cunifer. So loving easy to work with.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:38
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kastein posted:I went through my stockpile of scraps and the thinnest plate I have in the right sizes is... either 1/4" or 3/8" steel. Probably WAY thicker than we should use. Given that, what thickness and material would you prefer, if you don't have material on hand or on order? I can keep an eye on the local steel shops drop racks. Gonna use threadcerts to attach them? I'm a huge fan of the good serrated ones, especially in materials <1/4" thick. I've got some 3/16" plate, but it's rusty as gently caress, acting as a jackplate in the driveway for several years.
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Mar 7, 2016 23:30
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the spyder posted:In the mean time, spray those rusty brake lines and fittings with Fluid Film, available @ Oreily's. It's a penetrant/wax-oil that will help slow the rust. I would suggest washing them thoroughly first. The salt will work at them even under FF treatment. It's also available at Lowes, in the Garden section. FF is loving great stuff. MADE FROM SHEEPZ!
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Mar 7, 2016 23:35
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